ALSO BY THE EDITORS AT AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN
The Complete Make-Ahead Cookbook
The Complete Mediterranean Cookbook
The Complete Vegetarian Cookbook
The Complete Cooking for Two Cookbook
Nutritious Delicious
Cooking at Home with Bridget and Julia
What Good Cooks Know
Cook’s Science
The Science of Good Cooking
The Perfect Cookie
Bread Illustrated
Master of the Grill
Kitchen Smarts
Kitchen Hacks
100 Recipes: The Absolute Best Ways to Make the True Essentials
The New Family Cookbook
The America’s Test Kitchen Cooking School Cookbook
The Cook’s Illustrated Meat Book
The Cook’s Illustrated Baking Book
The Cook’s Illustrated Cookbook
The New Best Recipe
Soups, Stews, and Chilis
The America’s Test Kitchen Quick Family Cookbook
The America’s Test Kitchen Healthy Family Cookbook
The America’s Test Kitchen Family Baking Book
The Best of America’s Test Kitchen (2007–2018 Editions)
The Complete America’s Test Kitchen TV Show Cookbook 2001–2018
Food Processor Perfection
Pressure Cooker Perfection
Vegan for Everybody
Naturally Sweet
Foolproof Preserving
Paleo Perfected
The How Can It Be Gluten-Free Cookbook: Volume 2
The How Can It Be Gluten-Free Cookbook
The Best Mexican Recipes
Slow Cooker Revolution Volume 2: The Easy-Prep Edition
Slow Cooker Revolution
The Six-Ingredient Solution
The America’s Test Kitchen D.I.Y. Cookbook
Pasta Revolution
THE COOK’S ILLUSTRATED ALL-TIME BEST SERIES
All-Time Best Sunday Suppers
All-Time Best Holiday Entertaining
All-Time Best Appetizers
All-Time Best Soups
THE COOK’S COUNTRY SERIES
One-Pan Wonders
Cook It in Cast Iron
Cook’s Country Eats Local
The Complete Cook’s Country TV Show Cookbook
FOR A FULL LISTING OF ALL OUR BOOKS
PRAISE FOR AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN TITLES
“This book upgrades slow cooking for discriminating, 21st-century palates—that is indeed revolutionary.”
THE DALLAS MORNING NEWS ON SLOW COOKER REVOLUTION
“Another winning cookbook from ATK….The folks at America’s Test Kitchen apply their rigorous experiments to determine the facts about these pans.”
BOOKLIST ON COOK IT IN CAST IRON
“This book begins with a detailed buying guide, a critical summary of available sizes and attachments, and a list of clever food processor techniques. Easy and versatile dishes follow…Both new and veteran food processor owners will love this practical guide.”
LIBRARY JOURNAL ON FOOD PROCESSOR PERFECTION
Selected as the Cookbook Award Winner of 2017 in the Baking Category
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF CULINARY PROFESSIONALS (IACP) ON BREAD ILLUSTRATED
Selected as one of the Amazon Best Books of 2015 in the Cookbooks and Food Writing category
AMAZON ON THE COMPLETE VEGETARIAN COOKBOOK
“The 21st-century Fannie Farmer Cookbook or The Joy of Cooking. If you had to have one cookbook and that’s all you could have, this one would do it.”
CBS SAN FRANCISCO ON THE NEW FAMILY COOKBOOK
“The sum total of exhaustive experimentation…anyone interested in gluten-free cookery simply shouldn’t be without it.”
NIGELLA LAWSON ON THE HOW CAN IT BE GLUTEN-FREE COOKBOOK
“Some 2,500 photos walk readers through 600 painstakingly tested recipes, leaving little room for error.”
ASSOCIATED PRESS ON THE AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN COOKING SCHOOL COOKBOOK
“An exceptional resource for novice canners, though preserving veterans will find plenty here to love as well.”
LIBRARY JOURNAL (STARRED REVIEW) ON FOOLPROOF PRESERVING
“The go-to gift book for newlyweds, small families or empty nesters.”
ORLANDO SENTINEL ON THE COMPLETE COOKING FOR TWO COOKBOOK
“The entire book is stuffed with recipes that will blow your dinner-table audience away like leaves from a sidewalk in November.”
SAN FRANCISCO BOOK REVIEW ON THE COMPLETE COOK’S COUNTRY TV SHOW COOKBOOK
“A one-volume kitchen seminar, addressing in one smart chapter after another the sometimes surprising whys behind a cook’s best practices….You get the myth, the theory, the science and the proof, all rigorously interrogated as only America’s Test Kitchen can do.”
NPR ON THE SCIENCE OF GOOD COOKING
“A terrifically accessible and useful guide to grilling in all its forms that sets a new bar for its competitors on the bookshelf….The book is packed with practical advice, simple tips, and approachable recipes.”
PUBLISHERS WEEKLY (STARRED REVIEW) ON MASTER OF THE GRILL
“A beautifully illustrated, 318-page culinary compendium showcasing an impressive variety and diversity of authentic Mexican cuisine.”
MIDWEST BOOK REVIEW ON THE BEST MEXICAN RECIPES
“This comprehensive collection of 800-plus family and global favorites helps put healthy eating in an everyday context, from meatloaf to Indian curry with chicken.”
COOKING LIGHT ON THE AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN HEALTHY FAMILY COOKBOOK
“There are pasta books…and then there’s this pasta book. Flip your carbohydrate dreams upside down and strain them through this sieve of revolutionary, creative, and also traditional recipes.”
SAN FRANCISCO BOOK REVIEW ON PASTA REVOLUTION
“The perfect kitchen home companion…The practical side of things is very much on display…cook-friendly and kitchen-oriented, illuminating the process of preparing food instead of mystifying it.”
THE WALL STREET JOURNAL ON THE COOK’S ILLUSTRATED COOKBOOK
“Further proof that practice makes perfect, if not transcendent….If an intermediate cook follows the directions exactly, the results will be better than takeout or Mom’s.”
THE NEW YORK TIMES ON THE NEW BEST RECIPE
Copyright © 2017 by the Editors at America’s Test Kitchen
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: America’s Test Kitchen (Firm)
Title: The complete slow cooker : from appetizers to desserts-400 must-have recipes that cook while you play (or work) / the editors at America’s Test Kitchen.
Description: Boston, MA : America Test Kitchen, [2017] | Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2017020591 | ISBN 9781940352787 (alk. paper)
Subjects: LCSH: Electric cooking, Slow. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.
Classification: LCC TX827 .C653 2017 | DDC 641.5/884--dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017020591
Ebook ISBN 9781940352794
AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN
21 Drydock Avenue, Suite 210E, Boston, MA 02210
Distributed by Penguin Random House Publisher Services
Tel: 800–733–3000
CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER: Jack Bishop
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, BOOKS: Elizabeth Carduff
EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Julia Collin Davison
EXECUTIVE FOOD EDITOR: Dan Zuccarello
SENIOR MANAGING EDITOR: Debra Hudak
SENIOR EDITOR: Sara Mayer
ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Leah Colins and Lawman Johnson
TEST COOKS: Joseph Gitter and Katherine Perry
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Alyssa Langer
DESIGN DIRECTOR, BOOKS: Carole Goodman
PRODUCTION DESIGNER: Reinaldo Cruz
GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Katie Barranger
PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR: Julie Bozzo Cote
SENIOR STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER: Daniel J. van Ackere
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS: Steve Klise and Kevin White
PHOTOGRAPHY PRODUCER: Mary Ball
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: Keller + Keller and Carl Tremblay
FOOD STYLING: Catrine Kelty, Kendra McKnight, Marie Piraino, Elle Simone Scott, and Sally Staub
PHOTOSHOOT KITCHEN TEAM:
MANAGER: Timothy McQuinn
SENIOR EDITOR: Chris O’Connor
TEST COOK: Daniel Cellucci
ASSISTANT TEST COOKS: Mady Nichas and Jessica Rudolph
ILLUSTRATION: Jay Layman
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Guy Rochford
SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER: Jessica Lindheimer Quirk
PRODUCTION MANAGER: Christine Walsh
IMAGING MANAGER: Lauren Robbins
PRODUCTION AND IMAGING SPECIALISTS: Heather Dube, Dennis Noble, and Jessica Voas
COPY EDITOR: Jeff Schier
PROOFREADER: Pat Jalbert-Levine
INDEXER: Elizabeth Parson
v4.1
a
CONTENTS
Also by the Editors at America’s Test Kitchen
Welcome to America’s Test Kitchen
CHAPTER 4 Steaks, Chops, Ribs, and More
CHAPTER 5 A Roast in Every Pot
CHAPTER 6 Favorite Ways with Fish and Shellfish
CHAPTER 7 Classic Comfort Foods
CHAPTER 9 Hearty Vegetarian Mains
CHAPTER 10 Big-Batch Pasta Sauces
CHAPTER 11 Rice, Grains, and Beans
Welcome to America’s Test Kitchen
This book has been tested, written, and edited by the folks at America’s Test Kitchen. Located in Boston’s Seaport District in the historic Innovation and Design Building, it features 15,000 square feet of kitchen space including multiple photography and video studios. It is the home of Cook’s Illustrated magazine and Cook’s Country magazine and is the workday destination for more than 60 test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes over and over again until we understand how and why they work and until we arrive at the “best” version.
We start the process of testing a recipe with a complete lack of preconceptions, which means that we accept no claim, no technique, and no recipe at face value. We simply assemble as many variations as possible, test a half-dozen of the most promising, and taste the results blind. We then construct our own recipe and continue to test it, varying ingredients, techniques, and cooking times until we reach a consensus. As we like to say in the test kitchen, “We make the mistakes so you don’t have to.” The result, we hope, is the best version of a particular recipe, but we realize that only you can be the final judge of our success (or failure). We use the same rigorous approach when we test equipment and taste ingredients.
All of this would not be possible without a belief that good cooking, much like good music, is based on a foundation of objective technique. Some people like spicy foods and others don’t, but there is a right way to sauté, there is a best way to cook a pot roast, and there are measurable scientific principles involved in producing perfectly beaten, stable egg whites. Our ultimate goal is to investigate the fundamental principles of cooking to give you the techniques, tools, and ingredients you need to become a better cook. It is as simple as that.
To see what goes on behind the scenes at America’s Test Kitchen, check out our social media channels for kitchen snapshots, exclusive content, video tips, and much more. You can watch us work (in our actual test kitchen) by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen or Cook’s Country from America’s Test Kitchen on public television or on our websites. Listen to test kitchen experts on public radio (SplendidTable.org) to hear insights that illuminate the truth about real home cooking. Want to hone your cooking skills or finally learn how to bake—with an America’s Test Kitchen test cook? Enroll in one of our online cooking classes. However you choose to visit us, we welcome you into our kitchen, where you can stand by our side as we test our way to the best recipes in America.
SLOW COOKER 101
The America’s Test Kitchen Guide to Buying a Slow Cooker
The Test Kitchen’s Top Secrets to Slow-Cooker Success
All About Soups, Stews, and Chilis in the Slow Cooker
All About Chicken and Turkey in the Slow Cooker
All About Roasts in the Slow Cooker
INTRODUCTION
Although slow cookers have always been popular, in the past few years they have become wildly so. Many chefs and fine food magazines are now embracing them as well—and they’re not just making pot roast, either. Suddenly everyone seems to have discovered that the slow cooker is a ticket to an exotic chicken tagine, Asian-braised short ribs, killer homemade chicken stock, and even desserts—the sorts of exciting and classic dishes America’s Test Kitchen has been making in the slow cooker for the past 10 years. Now, three best-selling books and 600 recipes later, we’ve pulled our collective knowledge into this comprehensive cookbook, and in the process have refined our techniques and developed even more innovative recipes.
For this new collection, we listened to what our fans have said about our recipes and used their feedback to shape the mix: Readers wanted more recipes that can cook all day (at least 8 hours) and more easy-prep recipes (no more than 15 minutes’ prep time and no stovetop work), and healthier recipes, too. (Icons highlight each of these types of recipes in the book, and nutritional information for the lighter recipes is at the back of the book.) Perhaps most important, we developed nearly 100 new and exciting recipes. And since it is handy to have lots of variations on slow-cooker basics, we devised a feature called “Make It 5 Ways”: These recipe spreads present a bulletproof technique and master recipe for a dish plus four ways to vary it so dinner is never boring. Among these recipes you’ll find whole “roasted” chicken (the slow cooker renders the meat ultratender, while spice rub options keep flavors interesting), beef stews, meatloaves, big batch marinara sauces, lentil salads, and poached salmon.
In the pages that follow, we highlight what the test kitchen has learned, share our secrets for slow-cooker success, and give you our one-of-a-kind guide to how a great slow cooker is made, along with our tested recommendations for the best slow cooker your money can buy.
Despite all the testing we have done to make our recipes foolproof, using a slow cooker isn’t an exact science; the heating power varies tremendously among brands of slow cookers. Consequently, there are a few basics you need to know as you are making the recipes in this book.
USE THE TIME RANGES
You will find both 1- and 2-hour cooking ranges for the recipes in this book. The 2-hour ranges are largely for soups and stews and pasta sauces—recipes where bringing a lot of liquid up to temperature can take some time, especially in a smaller slow cooker. So for these recipes, such as Hearty Beef Stew or Classic Marinara Sauce, where a smaller slow cooker (like 4 quarts) is an option, you’ll find a longer cooking range to accommodate this. Note also that all the more delicate and exacting recipes using fish and leaner cuts of meat have the shorter time range (and shorter cooking times); we found this narrower range to be more reliable. We recommend that the first time you make one of these recipes you check for doneness at the lower end of the range.
KNOW YOUR SLOW COOKER
While all ovens set to 350 degrees will perform the same (assuming all the ovens are properly calibrated), temperatures vary widely among slow cookers. We tested more than a dozen models and prepared every recipe in this book in two different models. It’s hard to make blanket statements that apply to all slow cookers; some models run hot and fast, while others heat more slowly and gently. In our testing, we have found that some slow cookers run hot or cool on just one of the settings (either low or high). This is where the cook’s experience comes into play. If you have been using a slow cooker for some time, ask yourself if dishes are generally finished cooking at the beginning or at the end of the times provided in the recipes. The answer should tell you whether you have a “fast” slow cooker or a “slow” model. If you are just getting started with your slow cooker, check all recipes at the lower end of the time range, but allow some extra time to cook food longer if necessary. NOTE: To reiterate, all of our recipes were developed using traditional slow cookers. Be aware that there are appliances on the market, such as a multicooker, that have a slow-cooker setting or function but perform very differently and may not produce the same results.
MATCH RECIPES TO SLOW-COOKER SIZES
Slow cookers come in a variety of sizes, from the ridiculously small (1 quart) to the very big (7 quarts or more). In general, we like 6-quart models. That said, we tested our recipes in slow cookers of different sizes. Each recipe in this book includes the size range that will work for that particular recipe, though the majority of the recipes work with 4- to 7-quart slow cookers. Note that some recipes must be made in a large slow cooker (at least 5 quarts) or you run the risk of overfilling the insert. The shape of the slow cooker also matters for some of our recipes: Oval slow cookers are needed to accommodate some roasts, casseroles, braised vegetable dishes, and rice and grains. Some foods just won’t fit in a round slow cooker, and some are more successful due to the greater surface area in the oval type. For example, in the case of rice and grains, an oval slow cooker allows for more even cooking because the rice or grain is spread out more. If you don’t know the size of your slow cooker, check the underside of the insert (where the size is usually stamped), or simply measure how much water it takes to fill the insert to just above the lip.
Test Cook Joe Gitter carefully lowers a 6-inch cake pan containing a Key lime pie into a slow-cooker insert.
KEEP FOOD SAFE
Using a slow cooker is a safe way to cook food, but there are a few things to keep in mind to ensure it is a safe process. First, make sure your slow cooker and your utensils have been properly cleaned. Do not let your meat or fish sit out on the counter for any length of time before adding to the slow cooker. And never put frozen food into your slow cooker, as this greatly increases the risk that your food will not reach a safe bacteria-killing temperature. You should also follow our guidelines in recipes where we specify the doneness temperature of meat, fish, or poultry.
THE AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN GUIDE TO BUYING A SLOW COOKER
A slow cooker promises to be a little fantasy grandmother who sits in the kitchen all day cooking for you, but use the wrong cooker and that dream could fizzle. A cooker might run hotter than expected, drying out the food or turning it mushy, or slower than you want, so dinner isn’t ready when you are. Then there can be issues with hot spots, which make food cook unevenly. And what if operating your machine is so confusing that you have to pore over the manual each time you use it?
To find the ideal machine that would deliver a properly cooked meal and be absolutely simple and intuitive to use, we went shopping. Previous experience taught us that glass lids were a must, as they allow you to see progress without losing heat. So were oval-shaped crocks, as these can accommodate large roasts and offer more versatility than round crocks. We also wanted a generous 6- to 7-quart capacity. With these criteria in mind, we rounded up eight models priced from $39.99 to $148.71.
Slow cookers rely on covered moist-heat cooking, so of course we wanted to evaluate how well each model performed the classic task of turning a tough cut of meat tender. But since people these days use their slow cookers for much more than just braises and stews, we’d throw a few other recipe challenges at them, too. We chose recipes that presented a range of cooking times and that offered both low and high temperature settings. (Most recipes give you the option to cook for a shorter span on high or about twice as long on low. Generally the choice is about convenience, though delicate foods often require the low setting.)
SET AND FORGET?
We started by asking testers to evaluate how easy the slow cookers were to fill, set, turn off, and empty. Only the least-expensive model in our lineup had a manual control (a simple dial, with no timer or automatic switch-off). We much preferred digital programmable cookers, which automatically switch to “warm” when the cooking time is up.
But setting the programmable cookers wasn’t always easy. We wanted intuitive controls, but several models had so many buttons and confusing layouts that our testers couldn’t tell if they’d set them correctly. Then there was the “smart” slow cooker that ran via a phone app—it left most testers frustrated. Yet another cooker’s controls let you set only even-numbered cooking times (2, 4, 6, 8, or 10 hours) and indicated cooking progress with a cryptic series of lights. But one model in particular was a pleasure to use: Its controls were unambiguous, each button clicked satisfyingly and lit up when pressed, and within a few seconds the clock began counting down so you knew that it was running.
Handling the slow cookers presented new challenges. The handles on some became red-hot during cooking or were set too close to the hot rim of the housing. While we liked that the three products in our lineup with metal inserts were featherlight and we didn’t have to worry about cracking them, two of them became too hot to touch. Surprisingly, the heaviest crock in the lineup, a ceramic model, was also the easiest to use. It had protruding handles that were easy to grip and stayed cool. We found that this cooker was the only model that held close to the advertised capacity of 6 to 7 quarts and was also the only one with clear minimum and maximum fill lines.
With the help of a mechanical engineer from MIT, Lisa McManus evaluated the inner workings of each slow cooker.
COOKIN’ GOOD
It was time to start cooking. First up: braising chuck roast into pot roast. Two models produced mixed results, slightly overcooking some pieces and leaving others a bit underdone and chewy. A third model never rendered the meat fully fork-tender, even after extended cooking.
Next we made delicate boneless, skinless chicken breasts. Our recipe calls for laying four breasts in a row across the bottom of the crock. In three models (two of which were guilty of unevenly cooking the chuck roast), the breasts at either end cooked too fast. They climbed as high as 185 degrees, becoming dry and rubbery, before the pair in the center reached the target doneness temperature of 160 degrees. While cooking speed varied, all models fell within the range indicated in our recipe.
Next up: turkey breast. In previous testings, we found that some slow cookers had a hot spot along the back wall of the cooker, which risked overcooking larger cuts that pressed up against it. This time around we were pleased to find that this hot spot wasn’t an issue, although one cooker that unevenly cooked chicken breasts overcooked the turkey where it touched the narrow ends of the crock. Again, cooking times varied, but all models finished within our time range of 5 to 6 hours on low.
Aside from the unevenly cooked chicken and turkey, all of the food was passable. But our front-runner produced evenly cooked food every time.
UNDER THE HOOD
Why did some cookers run fast and others slow? Why did some cook food evenly and others not? To find out, we dismantled a duplicate set of cookers with the help of Gregory Thiel, a postdoctoral associate in mechanical engineering at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Here’s what we found: Most of our models were “traditional” slow cookers, meaning that food goes into a ceramic stoneware crock that absorbs and transmits heat slowly. These models have heating element strips made of nickel and chrome wire that wrap around a fiberglass strip that belts the crock. When the cooker is on, this wire heats up to a greater or lesser degree depending on the wattage and the setting. This construction tends to create hot spots near the element—particularly at the curved ends of the cookers, where the element surrounds the food more closely.
But two models with this belt-style construction actually did manage to cook food evenly, even at the ends. Opening up their housing revealed thick, heat-resistant padding and foil heat shields packed inside (the other models were empty except for the heating element). The insulation shields the pot from contact with the heating elements, preventing hot spots, and also explains why these two models—one of them our front-runner, from KitchenAid—tended to run a bit slower.
Two other models were designed very differently, with lightweight, nonstick-coated aluminum pots that sit directly on a hot plate made of stove-style electric coils embedded inside cast aluminum that also heat more or less powerfully depending on the setting. This design encourages even cooking from end to end, though the thin metal pots of these slow cookers (by Cuisinart and Ninja) cooked hotter and faster than ceramic-crock models.
The remaining cooker was a hybrid style made by Crock-Pot, with a metal crock and a traditional belt-style heater. Like the other two models with metal pots, it cooked a little fast.
The KitchenAid model that we liked so much has a useful feature: a sensor that automatically monitors and adjusts the cooking temperature so that it levels off and stays below boiling (ideally, food should stay at a simmer), helping further guard against overcooking food. Without such a sensor, the temperature of the crock pot’s contents will just keep climbing to a boiling point, whether set to low or high, simply because the heat is on (when set to low, the crock just takes longer to get there).
This was made clear in our final test: We tracked the temperature as each model heated 4 quarts of water over a period of 6 hours on high and then 12 hours on low.
A CLEAR WINNER
The KitchenAid 6-Quart Slow Cooker with Solid Glass Lid ($99.99), our former winner, handled every recipe with perfect results, albeit a bit slowly. Its thick stoneware crock, insulated housing, built-in thermal sensor, and crystal-clear controls are well thought-out—at a moderate price. The Cuisinart 6-Quart 3-in-1 Cook Central ($148.71) is also a solid choice. It offers the advantages of an unbreakable metal crock with stay-cool plastic handles, as well as a brown-and-sear function that lets you skip using a skillet before slow-cooking in recipes that call for it.
Winning Inner Workings
Our top-rated slow cooker from KitchenAid doesn’t boast much power—just 350 watts—but its smart design ensures even, steady heat that maintains a simmer and delivers perfectly cooked food every time.
1. CERAMIC STONEWARE CROCK Holds lots of heat; heats up slowly and transmits heat slowly for gentle, steady cooking; maintains stable temperature more easily than metal crocks.
2. HEATING ELEMENT Nichrome wire on fiberglass strip wraps around crock like a belt. Strip is located around lower third of crock, enclosed in metal casing.
3. TWO LAYERS OF INSULATION Buffer crock as element warms, preventing hot spots near element, and helping conserve and employ heat efficiently.
4. TEMPERATURE SENSOR Monitors cooking temperature and adjusts automatically to stay below boiling.
We tested eight 6- to 7-quart slow cookers, preparing a variety of recipes using both low and high temperature settings and varied cooking times. We used temperature probes to map heating patterns, and a panel of testers evaluated the cookers for ease of use and cleaning. We also dismantled a set of the cookers to understand the placement and type of heating elements they contained. The slow cookers were all purchased online and appear in order of preference.
KEY
GOOD ★★★ FAIR ★★ POOR ★
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
KITCHENAID 6-Quart Slow Cooker with Solid Glass Lid
MODEL: KSC6223SS
PRICE: $99.99
CROCK MATERIAL: Ceramic stoneware
FEATURES: 24-hour cooking time display; warm, low, medium, high settings; keeps warm for 4 hours after cooking
| COOKING | ★★★ |
| EASE OF USE | ★★★ |
| CLEANUP | ★★★ |
Our former champion won again for its well-designed, straightforward control panel that made it simple to set and monitor progress at a glance. The roomy crock cooked gently and evenly and never boiled, so food emerged tender and juicy. Its broad, protruding handles with grippy textured undersides stayed cool. Thick insulation kept heat directed toward the crock, and a built-in internal temperature sensor kept the temperature below boiling.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
CUISINART 6-Quart 3-in-1 Cook Central
MODEL: MSC-600
PRICE: $148.71
CROCK MATERIAL: Aluminum with nonstick coating
FEATURES: Low, high, simmer, and warm settings; brown/sauté and steam functions; metal rack for steaming; keeps warm for 24 hours after cooking
| COOKING | ★★★ |
| EASE OF USE | ★★½ |
| CLEANUP | ★★★ |
We loved the lightweight crock and stay-cool plastic handles. The crock is set directly over a built-in hot plate, so it ran a little hot and fast. That said, it cooked evenly, in part due to a built-in temperature control. Its brown/sauté function saves using a skillet, though it took longer and food steamed a little due to the crock’s high sides. A great choice if you hate to lift heavy crocks or worry about breakage.
RECOMMENDED
NINJA 3-in-1 Cooking System
MODEL: MC750
PRICE: $99.99
CROCK MATERIAL: Aluminum with nonstick coating
FEATURES: Brown/sauté function; low, high, buffet (warm) settings; keeps warm for 12 hours after cooking
| COOKING | ★★★ |
| EASE OF USE | ★★ |
| CLEANUP | ★★★ |
This model has a thin rectangular metal pot and cooked fast but evenly. It has both a built-in hot plate and a belt-like heating element for different cooking functions. It is easy to set, though its controls are a little complicated. Its slick metal handles got very hot, and while its brown/sauté function works, it was noticeably slower at browning food, probably due to its lower wattage.
RECOMMENDED WITH RESERVATIONS
CROCK-POT 6-Quart Slow Cooker with Stovetop-Safe Cooking Pot
MODEL: SCCPVI600-S
PRICE: $56.80
CROCK MATERIAL: Cast aluminum with ceramic nonstick coating (PTFE- and PFOA-free)
FEATURES: Warm, low, high settings; 20-hour countdown timer
| COOKING | ★★★ |
| EASE OF USE | ★★ |
| CLEANUP | ★★ |
The metal crock got very hot, so it ran slightly fast, though it cooked evenly. The crock can be used on the stovetop for browning and searing before placing it into the cooker to slow-cook. A few design issues: Its metal handles became quite hot, the slick ceramic coating still felt greasy after repeated hand washing, and the thin lip of the crock meant its lid sometimes slipped into the pot when jostled. Some testers found the controls confusing.
NOT RECOMMENDED
These slow cookers did not make the cut: HAMILTON BEACH Stay or Go 6-Quart Programmable Slow Cooker; CROCK-POT Smart Wifi-Enabled WeMo 6-Quart Slow Cooker; GOURMIA SlowSmart Express 7 Qt Digital Programmable Slow Cooker; and the BLACK + DECKER 7-Quart Slow Cooker—Teal.
Although we recommend buying a 5½- to 6-quart slow cooker because it is the most versatile, we recognize that for smaller households, or for those where space is tight, a 4-quart slow cooker might be more appropriate. That said, the actual footprint of 4-quart slow cookers is not that much smaller than the larger ones. To assess this smaller version, we bought eight 4-quart models priced from about $20 to $130. Half featured digital programmable timers; the rest had manual controls that can’t be programmed. We much preferred cookers with digital programmable controls that automatically switched over to “warm.”
In the end, we can recommend two small slow cookers. The Cuisinart 4-Quart Cook Central 3-in-1 Multicooker ($129.95) was simple to set, and its digital timer meant that we could just walk away. It cooked food well if a little more slowly than other models. If your kitchen is cramped, be aware that it is nearly as big as a full-size slow cooker. Our Best Buy is the Hamilton Beach Stay or Go 4-Quart Slow Cooker ($26.99). With manual controls and no timer, it was far less convenient, but it performed perfectly.
RECOMMENDED
CUISINART 4-Quart Cook Central 3-in-1 Multicooker
MODEL: MSC-400
PRICE: $129.95
CONTROLS: Digital programmable
| COOKING | ★★★ |
| DESIGN | ★★★ |
This new “multicooker”—a slow cooker that can also brown, sauté, and steam—produced perfect chicken, steaks, and ribs. Its programmable timer can be set to cook for up to 24 hours, then it automatically switches to “keep warm.” We liked its lightweight, easy-clean, sturdy metal insert with extra-large handles and its oval shape, clear lid, and intuitive controls. The browning function is a nice plus for searing food or reducing sauces.
RECOMMENDED
HAMILTON BEACH Stay or Go 4-Quart Slow Cooker
BEST BUY
MODEL: 33246T
PRICE: $26.99
CONTROLS: Manual
| COOKING | ★★★ |
| DESIGN | ★★ |
This cooker performed well, producing perfect ribs, steak, and chicken. A gasket and clips on the lid let you take your cooker to a potluck without risking spills. It’s comparatively low-tech: The “off,” “low,” “high,” and “warm” settings are on a manual dial—which is its drawback. You can’t set it to turn off or to switch to “keep warm” on its own.
RECOMMENDED WITH RESERVATIONS
WEST BEND 4-Quart Oval Crockery Cooker
MODEL: 84384
PRICE: $29.99
CONTROLS: Manual
| COOKING | ★★ |
| DESIGN | ★½ |
This model produced tender chicken and steak (although the sauce scorched slightly). But ribs developed a leathery crust wherever they touched the hot bottom of the insert.
Mini Slow Cookers
You’re probably wondering, “Do I really need a baby slow cooker?” We were skeptical, too, but they can do everything from keep dips warm at parties to slow-cook scaled-down meals for two from start to finish, not to mention that they easily stow away in small kitchens, tiny dorm rooms, or campers. They’re also inexpensive. To find the best one, we gathered four models priced from $13.79 to $24.02—all with 1½-quart capacities—and used them to make slow-cooker recipes for cheese fondue and chicken soup, as well as keep hot spinach and artichoke dip and queso fundido warm (tracking the temperature of each for 3 hours).
All of the mini slow cookers we tested handled the fondue, soup, and spinach dip well, but two—those without “warm” settings—had problems with the more finicky queso dip, which can separate if it gets too hot. Our favorite, the Elite Cuisine 1.5 Quart Mini Slow Cooker ($24.02), aced every test.
THE TEST KITCHEN’S TOP SECRETS TO SLOW-COOKER SUCCESS
After years of developing slow-cooker recipes we’ve learned that a simple “dump-and-go” approach often leads to second-rate recipes. Here are some tricks and techniques that are key to turning out great-tasting food from your slow cooker.
1
GET OUT A SKILLET (SOMETIMES)
We understand that you’re using a slow cooker because life is busy and you don’t have lots of time to spare. It can seem like a pain in the neck to pull out your skillet first, but we think it is often-times the best route to building flavor. (We never put raw aromatics or spices directly into the slow cooker.) For some recipes, spending just 5 or 10 minutes sautéing aromatics or browning meat makes all the difference between a meal that is expedient and one that is great. Browning creates a flavorful fond in the bottom of the pan that provides the basis for a rich sauce such as for Osso Buco. Browning a whole roast, like the eye-round roast in our Roast Beef with Hearty Mushroom Gravy, or a halved roast, as in Cider-Braised Pork Roast, adds both extra flavor and attractive color.
2
PRESS THE MICROWAVE INTO SERVICE
The fastest appliance in your kitchen is your ally when it comes to using your slow cooker. When the microwave will suffice, we turn to it instead of the stove-top. We use the microwave to quickly and easily soften aromatics, bloom spices, parcook vegetables, and more in many recipes. Tossed with a little oil, aromatics and spices meld and allow a head start on flavor building once they are added to the slow cooker, as in Chicken Tikka Masala. When you need to add hot broth or coconut milk to a dish at the end of cooking, the microwave is the easy answer. Same with delicate vegetables, like the snow peas in Thai Green Curry with Shrimp and Sweet Potatoes, that are added to the slow cooker right before serving—a quick spin in the microwave and you can stir them right in.
3
BULK UP ON SPICES, AROMATICS, AND OTHER FLAVORINGS
The flavors in a slow-cooker dish can become muted over the long cooking time. So we up the amounts of aromatics and spices in our slow cooker recipes beyond what is normally used. To increase the flavor of the spices, we bloom them in either a skillet or the microwave. For most stews, chilis, pasta sauces, and many braises, flavor building starts with sautéing the aromatics or browning meat, resulting in a flavorful fond that can be deglazed with wine or broth for deep, rich flavor. We often season roasts with robust spice rubs.
Aiming to cut down on stovetop work, in many cases we call upon glutamate-rich ingredients like tomato paste, porcini mushrooms, and soy sauce, which can mimic the deep flavor that comes from browning and traditional sauce making. And many slow-cooker dishes need a flavor boost before serving, so we turn to herbs, citrus juice, vinegar, or other flavorful ingredients like brown sugar or coconut milk.
4
THINK DIFFERENTLY ABOUT THICKENERS
Since there is no opportunity for stews and chilis to reduce and thicken naturally in the moist environment of the slow cooker, thickeners are often necessary. Sometimes we use a classic fat-and-flour-based roux, but whenever possible we try to use ingredients already in the dish to help thicken it. For instance, we have found success processing portions of canned beans and frozen corn before building the stew base, as we do in our Pork and White Bean Stew with Kale, or finishing a dish by mashing some of the cooked beans and vegetables, such as in Black Bean Chili. If all else fails, we typically reach for instant tapioca, which we have found over the years to be a great no-fuss thickener that can be stirred in at the start. A few tablespoons of tapioca added to the slow cooker with the lamb in Lamb Vindaloo ensure that the sauce is thick and clingy.
5
PAY ATTENTION TO TEMPERATURE WHEN COOKING
After you’ve been using your slow cooker for a while, you become attuned to whether it runs fast or slow and whether your recipes will be done toward the beginning or the end of the time ranges. This will help inform timing when you’re making more temperature-sensitive foods like leaner roasts (pork loin, pork tenderloin, whole chicken, eye-round roast) and fish. While well-marbled roasts like a chuck-eye roast can cook all day without fear of overcooking, these more delicate foods, or a beef roast you want to serve medium-rare, need more precise timing. To make sure these roasts remain moist, we cook them on low and use 1-hour time ranges. Start monitoring their temperature at the lower end of the time range and take them out of the slow cooker as soon as they reach the desired temperature. After you’ve made these recipes once, you’ll know how long to cook them in the future.
6
JUMP-START THE COOKING OF RICE AND PASTA
Both pasta and rice are tricky to cook perfectly in a slow cooker. And there is nothing worse than crunchy rice or mushy pasta. A technique we use with both of them to combat uneven cooking is to begin with hot or boiling water or broth to jump-start the cooking. When we used room-temperature water, we found them to be unevenly cooked—mushy at the bottom and dried out at the top. By the time the water or broth heated up enough to cook the rice or pasta, the bottom of the dish had overcooked and the top portion had dried out.
We also use a few other techniques for each of them in concert with the hot water trick—click here for information on toasting pasta and click here for information on using a parchment shield when making rice casseroles or sides.
7
TOAST THE PASTA
After much testing, we found that recipes that included pasta could be very difficult to cook perfectly in the slow cooker, which is why you will find only a handful of them in this collection. What we did learn was that when making slow-cooker casseroles with pasta, how you handle the pasta makes a huge difference in the success of the dish. For Grown-Up Macaroni and Cheese with Comté and Porcini, raw or partially cooked pasta does not work, but toasting it with a little extra-virgin olive oil in the microwave does. This technique prevents the pasta from becoming bloated. We found that microwaving the pasta at 50 percent power, and stirring it occasionally, gently toasts the pasta (note that only a portion will look toasted and blistered). Click here for more information on toasting pasta.
8
BUILD SUPPORT WITH ALUMINUM FOIL
Since most slow cookers have a hotter side (typically the back side, opposite the side with the controls), some dense foods like casseroles can burn. To solve this problem we line the slow cooker insert with an aluminum foil collar (click here for more information). For dishes that we want to lift out of the insert intact, like meatloaf, lasagna, and monkey bread, a simple foil sling (click here for more information) makes this a snap. Foil packets come in handy, too: when cooking a stew loaded with vegetables, placing the vegetables in this packet keeps them fresh and prevents them from overcooking.
Other times, particularly with our slow-cooker desserts, we found a foil rack to be useful (click here for more information). This ring elevates cakes above the bottom of the pan, where we add a water bath to create more even heat in the slow cooker. As a result, no part of the pan is getting direct heat, and the slow cooker functions more like an oven in this situation. We do this with our Carrot Cake, Flourless Chocolate Cake, and cheesecakes.
9
RESIST LIFTING THE LID TO STIR (MOST OF THE TIME)
It’s hard to resist lifting the lid early to check on how your pot roast or casserole is coming along. Don’t do it! The slow cooker builds up heat over time and maintains a relatively low even temperature; lifting the lid releases steam and ruins the slow cooker’s effectiveness. Doing so will throw off the timing we’ve carefully tested for these recipes.
That said, there are some recipes that are temperature-driven, and timing (and doneness) is tricky, as with poached fish or pork tenderloin, and some custardy desserts like cheesecake; for these recipes we recommend that you do lift the lid and check the temperature partway through the cooking time to avoid the risk of overcooking. After you’ve had experience with these recipes, you will know how to anticipate the timing for perfect results.
Note that there are a handful of recipes like granola, party mix, and spiced nuts where lifting the lid and stirring are essential, but these are the exception.
10
ADD VEGETABLES AT THE RIGHT TIME
Vegetables are tricky to get right in the slow cooker, so we focused a lot of attention on making sure our vegetables were perfectly cooked.
For sturdy vegetables like potatoes and carrots, to ensure they cook through perfectly it is sometimes necessary to give them a head start on the stovetop or in the microwave before adding them to, for instance, Homey Chicken Stew; in this case the chicken needs far less time than the potato chunks and sliced carrots to be perfectly cooked. In other cases, as with Braised Steaks with Horseradish Smashed Potatoes, we can add raw small whole potatoes to the slow cooker along with the meat for perfect results. Delicate vegetables like frozen peas, baby spinach, and chopped tomatoes turn mushy and lackluster when added at the beginning of cooking, so stir them in at the end. Fresh stir-ins like sliced red bell pepper or zucchini can take just 20 minutes or less to soften.
11
MAKE THE MOST OF THE BRAISING LIQUID
The juice left behind after braising a roast is like liquid gold, but how you handle it to turn it into a rich sauce can be tricky in the slow cooker. Often all it needs is a quick skim to remove the excess fat from the surface, and some salt and pepper for seasoning, as we do with pot roast. For our Cider-Braised Pork Roast the resulting sauce (flavored with apple butter, cider, and vinegar) is so delicious that all we need to do is skim off the fat and serve it with the meat. Other times, as with Turkey Breast with Gravy, we reduce the remaining sauce to intensify the flavor; we also sometimes put braising liquid in the blender for an unctuous sauce. Before serving we frequently stir in some acidic citrus juice or vinegar, or some chopped fresh herbs, to brighten and balance the flavors, such as in our Cuban Pork Roast with Mojo Sauce.
12
FINISH UNDER THE BROILER (SOMETIMES)
Since the slow cooker is a moist cooking vehicle, you will never get a nice char or crisp skin when using it. So a technique we picked up to get a nice crisp texture is to cook a dish all the way through and then finish it under the broiler. (We also like to use a glaze before and after broiling to build layers of flavor and to help ensure a crisp crust.) We use this technique with our meatloaves to get the signature caramelized crust. We also pass ribs (click here for more information) and chicken wings (click here for more information) under the broiler to give them that “grilled” char and crisp skin often associated with these dishes.
Bottled clam juice, along with the juice from canned clams, adds briny seafood flavor to our Manhattan Clam Chowder.
ALL ABOUT SOUPS, STEWS, AND CHILIS IN THE SLOW COOKER
You’ll find more than 60 soups, stews, and chilis in this book since they are perennial favorites for slow cooking and many of them can cook all day long. Here is what we learned to deliver perfect results.
Broth is a key ingredient in soups and stews, adding flavor as well as keeping things moist. We start many of our soups and stews with broth instead of water to give them a backbone of flavor. Broth from scratch is easy to make in the slow cooker (click here for more information) and always tastes the best. While nothing compares with the flavor of homemade, sometimes even in the test kitchen we reach for convenient store-bought broth. We have tasted commercial chicken, beef, and vegetarian broths and can recommend these brands: Swanson Chicken Stock, Better Than Bouillon Roasted Beef Base, and Orrington Farms Vegan Chicken Flavored Broth Base & Seasoning.
When we need bold, briny flavor for a seafood dish such as Manhattan Clam Chowder, we reach for bottled clam juice, which is made by briefly steaming fresh clams in salted water and filtering the resulting broth before bottling. Our winner is Bar Harbor Clam Juice.
BROWN ONLY HALF THE MEAT
We found that we could streamline the process for many of our stews, chilis, and braises, such as Beef Burgundy, by browning only half of the meat to get rich flavor from the fond. The other half of the meat can then be added to the slow cooker raw.
Lean ground meat can easily overcook in the slow cooker and turn dry and gritty. After much trial and error during our chili making and beyond, we found that mixing the ground meat with a panade, a mixture of bread and milk or broth, produced the best results. For instance, a panade ensures that the ground turkey in our Turkey Chili stays moist, and the ground beef in Shepherd’s Pie stays tender, after hours in the slow cooker.
HANDLE VEGETABLES WITH CARE
We worked hard to pack our stews with interesting combinations of vegetables, so naturally we also focused a lot of attention on ensuring they were perfectly cooked. For stews that have a short stay in the slow cooker, sturdier vegetables like potatoes and carrots, depending on how large they are cut, just do not cook through properly. Instead we parcook them before adding them to the slow cooker. For an all-day stew like Farro and Butternut Squash Stew, we cook the squash in a foil packet on top of the stew so that it stays flavorful and colorful.
USE YOUR NOODLES
Try as we might, we found we could not cook egg noodles in soup in the slow cooker; the heat of the slow cooker just isn’t hot enough to cook them properly. So we cook our egg noodles on the stovetop and stir them into the soup at the end of cooking. We did, however, happily discover that finicky rice noodles work perfectly in the slow cooker. The noodles cook gently and don’t break apart or turn mushy, making them the perfect addition to Vietnamese Beef and Noodle Soup, as well as Pork Pad Thai.
FINISH WITH FRESH FLAVOR
Because many dishes need a flavor boost before serving, we often finish our stews (and other dishes) with fresh herbs, citrus juice, vinegar, or other flavorful ingredients, like brown sugar or coconut milk.
This one-pot chicken dinner features tender chicken finished with a basil vinaigrette and couscous, tomatoes, and fennel.
ALL ABOUT CHICKEN AND TURKEY IN THE SLOW COOKER
In a slow cooker it can be really tricky to ensure moist, flavorful poultry. Here are the keys to achieving great results every time.
We found that the only way to cook chicken (and turkey) in a slow cooker is on the low setting and for a relatively short amount of time. We recommend that until you have experience cooking poultry in your slow cooker, start checking the temperature of chicken breasts (boneless and bone-in), whole chicken, and turkey breasts at the low end of the temperature range to ward off dry, overcooked poultry. Chicken thighs are more forgiving, making them especially well suited to the slow cooker because their dark meat becomes meltingly tender during the long cooking time; for this reason we cook them longer than bone-in or boneless breasts, and we don’t check their temperature. Longer cooking times are also needed in soups or casseroles where the meat is insulated by other ingredients.
| PROPER COOKING TIMES FOR POULTRY | |
| Type of Poultry | Cooking Time* |
| Boneless, Skinless Chicken Breasts | 1 to 2 hours on low |
| Bone-in Split Chicken Breasts | 2 to 3 hours on low |
| Chicken Thighs | 4 to 5 hours on low |
| Whole Chicken | 4 to 5 hours on low |
| Turkey Breast | 5 to 6 hours on low |
*Note that cooking times vary in our Dinner for Two chapter
REMOVE THE SKIN
When left on the chicken, the skin becomes flabby and rubbery in the slow cooker, and the corresponding sauce superfatty—an unappealing result. We address this problem in two ways: We either remove the skin before cooking, or keep it on long enough to hold in flavor during cooking and then remove it afterward. Removing the skin before cooking usually left us with a plain, bland-tasting piece of meat, so we often drizzle our chicken with bright vinaigrettes or herbs to infuse flavor, such as in our Curried Chicken Thighs with Acorn Squash. Chicken skin is typically slippery, so a paper towel provides extra grip to help remove it. Because the skin is more difficult to remove from whole chickens, we wait until they are fully cooked and carved before removing the skin.
Distributing a flavorful rub both over and under the skin of the chicken ensures the best flavor. We do this with our Five Ways with Chicken in a Pot and Herbed Chicken with Warm Spring Vegetable Salad. For a whole chicken, loosen the skin over the thighs and breast and rub half of the spice mixture under the skin, directly on the meat. Rub the remaining mixture on the skin of the entire chicken. Once the chicken is cooked and fully infused with the rub’s flavor, you can easily remove the skin, or not—cook’s choice.
POSITION A WHOLE CHICKEN CAREFULLY
Our testers discovered that when a whole chicken is placed breast side down, a moister bird results because the juices from the dark meat render down into the breast, keeping it from becoming overcooked as the dark meat reaches the proper temperature.
Brisket can cook all day in a slow cooker, and here it is given an overnight spice rub and cooked with lots of sliced onion.
ALL ABOUT ROASTS IN THE SLOW COOKER
The slow cooker is a great vehicle for cooking roasts, especially for the busy cook who doesn’t have time to spend monitoring the oven. But you can’t just set it and forget it in the slow cooker either; you have to make sure you’ve properly prepped and positioned your roasts to ensure ideal results. Here are a few important tips to guarantee your roasts are foolproof every time.
PICK THE RIGHT ROAST
The easiest roasts to cook in a slow cooker are the tougher, fattier roasts, like beef chuck-eye roast, beef brisket, and pork butt, because low-and-slow cooking turns the meat meltingly tender. That said, with a few tricks we found success with leaner roasts, too.
SHAPE ALSO MATTERS
Buying the right pork loin roast makes all the difference. Look for a roast that is wide and short, and steer clear of those that are long and narrow. Narrow pork loins don’t fit as easily into the slow cooker and are prone to overcooking because they cook through more quickly.
SPLIT ONE ROAST INTO TWO
A great method for ensuring even cooking is to break a large roast into two smaller roasts, as we do in Classic Pot Roast with Carrots and Potatoes; they cook for a shorter amount of time so as to cook to perfection.
SECURE POT ROASTS AND PORK LOINS WITH TWINE
Our favorite cuts for pot roast are beef chuck-eye roast and pork butt roast (also called Boston butt), because they are well marbled and become very tender over the long braising time. In our experience, these roasts often come unevenly cut or oddly shaped, so to ensure that they cook evenly, we tie them once or twice around the center with kitchen twine to produce a more uniformly shaped roast that will cook through evenly.
BROWNING ADDS COLOR AND FLAVOR
For some of our roasts, we chose to brown them in a skillet first. This step is often overlooked in slow-cooker recipes because of the added work and extra dishes, but we felt it provides a welcome depth of flavor not only to our finished roast but to the final sauce or gravy made with the braising liquid. Click here for more information about using a skillet to brown a roast.
In our testing we learned that getting juicy roasts has a lot to do with how we position them in the slow cooker. Nestling two pork tenderloins side by side, alternating the narrow and thicker ends, helps to insulate the lean meat and prevent it from overcooking. Positioning larger roasts, like brisket and pork loins, fat and/or skin side up allows more fat to render and baste the meat as it cooks.
MAXIMIZE FLAVOR WITH RUBS AND AROMATICS
No one wants to serve up a pale, bland-looking pork loin, pork tenderloin, or beef roast. The moist environment and extended cooking times of the slow cooker are notorious for producing dull, washed-out flavors. To prevent our roasts from turning out bland, we season them liberally with spice rubs, like in our Braised Brisket and Onions, and flavor-packed sauces. We also create concentrated bases for braising with plenty of aromatics and spices. As the roasts cook, they are infused with the bold flavor of the braising liquid, like with our Southwestern Pork Roast.
LET IT REST
After almost any piece of meat finishes cooking, it is crucial to allow it to rest. During this time the proteins relax and reabsorb any accumulated meat juices and redistribute them throughout the meat, resulting in juicier and more tender cuts and less pooled drippings. For lean cuts of meat that are prone to drying out and turning tough, this resting time is especially important for ensuring that they stay moist and tender. We often call for tenting meat with aluminum foil to keep it warm while it rests. Unless a recipe calls for something more specific, we found that tenting a roast works best when one sheet of foil is loosely placed on top of the meat in an upside-down V. Do not crimp the edges as this can trap steam and sog out a crust.
| PROPER COOKING TIMES FOR ROASTS | ||
| Type of Roast | Cooking Time on Low | Cooking Time on High |
| Top Sirloin Beef Roast | 1 to 2 hours | — |
| Boneless Beef Chuck-Eye Roast | 9 to 10 hours | 6 to 7 hours |
| Beef Brisket | 9 to 10 hours | 6 to 7 hours |
| Pork Tenderloin | 1 to 2 hours | — |
| Boneless Pork Loin | 2 to 3 hours | — |
| Boneless Pork Butt Roast | 9 to 10 hours | 6 to 7 hours |
| Ham | 5 to 6 hours | — |
MAKE IT A MEAL
What’s even better than making a no-fuss roast in the slow cooker? Having a side dish to serve along with it. To get a complete meal all in one pot, we sometimes add beans, rice, and vegetables including potatoes, carrots, onions, or sweet potatoes to the slow cooker along with our roasts. Then, while our roasts rest, we quickly mash the sweet potatoes or toss the potatoes in dressing for easy salads. In other cases, we add fresh vegetables or grains to the slow cooker as the roast rests and up the heat to high to cook them through in a flash, such as for our Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Raisin-Almond Couscous.
Adding small potatoes and carrot pieces to the slow cooker alongside savory pot roast makes a hearty one-pot meal.
This Cod Peperonata features a bold base of bell peppers, tomatoes, paprika, and wine, into which we nestle the fish.
ALL ABOUT SEAFOOD IN THE SLOW COOKER
Overcooked fish and rubbery shrimp are all too common, but the combination of the slow cooker’s low temperature and mild heat is terrific for producing moist fish fillets and tender shrimp and scallops. Here are a few key points to keep in mind to successfully cook seafood in the slow cooker.
KEEP A RULER HANDY
Ensuring moist fish in the slow cooker starts at the fish counter, where we choose 1- to 1½-inch-thick fillets and steaks, which can cook for a longer period of time without drying out. It is also important to choose fillets or steaks that are similar in size and thickness so that each piece will cook at the same rate.
TEMP YOUR FISH
To further guarantee that the fish is properly cooked, we use the low setting and short time ranges to reduce the opportunity for overcooking. Start monitoring the fish’s temperature at the low end of the range until you have experience cooking it in your slow cooker.
STIR IN SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS AT THE END
Yes, you can cook shrimp and scallops in a slow cooker, but the key is to add them toward the end of the cooking time and let the moist heat of the slow cooker gently cook them through. For instance, we learned it takes just 30 to 40 minutes to cook shrimp in a slow cooker, so for a seafood stew or soup we let the base of broth, vegetables, and aromatics simmer for several hours to soften the vegetables and meld flavors before we add the shrimp. The same principle holds true for scallops, such as our Scallops with Creamy Braised Leeks, where we use the majority of the slow-cooker time to braise the leeks in wine and cream, then add the scallops for the last 30 to 40 minutes.
USE A SLING WHEN POACHING
To make it easy to remove delicate fish from the slow cooker after poaching, we often use a foil sling. To form a sling, fold a sheet of aluminum foil into a 12 by 9-inch rectangle and press it widthwise into the slow cooker. Use the ends of the sling as handles to lift the fish out of the slow cooker fully intact.
Poaching is an easy method for cooking fish, but it typically requires prepping a slew of ingredients for the poaching broth, only to dump it out at the end of cooking. Plus, much of the fish’s flavor leaches out into the liquid. Fortunately, in the slow cooker these problems can be easily solved using a shallow poaching technique: We simply rest the fish on top of a few citrus slices and herb stems to keep it elevated for even cooking, and we use just enough liquid to gently steam, not simmer, the fish. During our testing we also learned that adding wine to the poaching liquid helps to achieve perfectly cooked fish quickly at a lower temperature. This is because wine lowers water’s boiling point and produces more vapor to cook the fillets. This steamy environment gave us perfectly poached fish every time.
After much testing with clams and mussels, we learned that by the time they become hot enough for the shells to open up (and sometimes they don’t open), their tender meat is tough and inedible. In short, the slow cooker doesn’t get hot enough fast enough to safely cook clams or mussels.
For our Mushroom Biryani, topping basmati rice with a layer of mushrooms and then a sheet of parchment paper ensures it cooks evenly.
ALL ABOUT RICE, GRAINS, AND BEANS IN THE SLOW COOKER
With exacting cooking times and in most cases precise amounts of liquid required, rice, grain, and bean dishes can be tricky to cook perfectly in your slow cooker. Here is what we learned.
We found that an oval slow cooker is the perfect vessel in which to cook perfect rice, lentils, wheat berries, and more. The oval shape provides more surface area over which to spread the rice and grains to allow for more even cooking.
In addition to the right ratio of rice to water, the key to perfectly cooked rice is a parchment shield (click here for more information). Crimping a piece of parchment over the top of the rice creates a vacuum that prevents the grains on top from drying out as the water is absorbed. In addition, condensation builds up on the parchment shield and drips back down onto the rice, creating a superbly even, moist environment. This works beautifully for sides like Wild Rice Pilaf with Cranberries and Pecans and more elaborate dishes with lots of rice like Mushroom Biryani and Paella.
ADD BOILING WATER
We learned that long-grain white rice, basmati rice, and brown rice all need a head start with boiling water in the slow cooker. We found that cooking them on high is best, as is using a layer of parchment over the rice to protect the grains on top from drying out as the liquid is absorbed.
In some recipes where rice plays a supporting role, as in Lemony Chicken and Rice with Spinach and Feta, we found that traditional rice takes too long to cook. Raw rice doesn’t cook through evenly and is blown out and mushy by the time the chicken or beans are done. Instant white rice, also known as minute rice, stirred in toward the end of cooking, holds its shape and absorbs the rich flavors of the cooking liquid and other ingredients.
NO SOAKING NEEDED
When starting with dried beans, we add them right to the slow cooker, no advance soaking or simmering needed. The beans require no prep other than being picked over and rinsed. Dried beans are well suited to low-and-slow cooking, and the gentle simmering heat of the slow cooker helps the beans to cook through evenly.
COOK BEANS ON HIGH
The gentle, steady heat of the slow cooker produces perfectly tender beans and chickpeas after 8 or 9 hours of cooking them on the high setting. But we weren’t able to get the same result from cooking on low; even after 16 hours of cooking, we still had crunchy beans. So we cook our Baked Beans and other bean recipes exclusively on high.
CHAPTER 1
Easy Spiced Nuts ■ ■ ■
Warm Marinated Artichoke Hearts ■ ■
Rosemary and Garlic White Bean Dip ■ ■ ■
Refried Bean Dip ■ ■
Beef and Black Bean Taco Dip ■
Chile con Queso ■ ■
Baked Brie with Figs, Walnuts, and Herbs ■ ■
Smoky Barbecue Chicken Wings ■
Turkey-Pesto Cocktail Meatballs ■
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
■ EASY PREP
■ VEGETARIAN
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
SERVES 10 TO 14 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Crunchy and addictive, spiced nuts make a great hors d’oeuvre or snack. And while most recipes call for toasting the nuts in the oven, we wanted to see if we could use a slow cooker instead and avoid the pitfall of burning them. We decided to go with a simple spice combination of cinnamon, ginger, and coriander, using just enough to complement the flavor of the nuts without overpowering them. The addition of just ¼ cup sugar provided some background sweetness, which played well against the warm spices. To make sure the spices adhered to the nuts, we also needed a liquid component. Some spiced nut recipes call for using butter or syrup, but these liquids don’t necessarily do a good job of coating everything; we found that an egg white mixed with a little water and salt worked best. To avoid unappealing clumps of egg white on the roasted nuts, we drained them thoroughly before adding the spices. You can use any combination of nuts here; just be sure to have 3 cups in total. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. This recipe can be doubled; you will need to cool the nut mixture on two rimmed baking sheets.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Whisk egg white, water, and salt together in large bowl. Add almonds and toss to coat; drain thoroughly in fine-mesh strainer.
2. Combine sugar, cinnamon, ginger, and coriander in second large bowl. Add almonds and toss to coat. Transfer almond mixture to prepared slow cooker, cover, and cook, stirring every 30 minutes, until almonds are toasted and fragrant, 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Transfer almond mixture to rimmed baking sheet and spread into even layer. Let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes. Serve. (Almonds can be stored at room temperature for up to 1 week.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Nuts
With their meaty texture, great flavor, and abundant healthy fats and protein, nuts are an essential ingredient in many recipes. Here’s what you need to know.
STORING NUTS All nuts are high in oil and will become rancid rather quickly. In the test kitchen, we store all nuts in the freezer in freezer-safe zipper-lock bags. Frozen nuts will keep for months, and there’s no need to defrost before toasting or chopping.
TOASTING NUTS Toasting nuts brings out their flavors and gives them a satisfying crunchy texture. To toast a small amount (under 1 cup), put the nuts (or seeds) in a dry small skillet over medium heat. Shake the skillet occasionally to prevent scorching and toast until they are lightly browned and fragrant, 3 to 8 minutes. Watch them closely since they can go from golden to burnt very quickly. To toast more than 1 cup of nuts, spread the nuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and toast in a 350-degree oven. To promote even toasting, shake the baking sheet every few minutes, and toast until the nuts are lightly browned and fragrant, 5 to 10 minutes.
SKINNING NUTS The skins from some nuts, such as walnuts and hazelnuts, can impart a bitter flavor and an undesirable texture in some dishes. To remove the skins, simply rub the hot toasted nuts inside a clean dish towel.
ALMOND PRIMER Most nuts can be found either raw, toasted, or roasted, but almonds are sold in a dizzying array of varieties: raw, roasted, blanched, slivered, sliced, and smoked. So which almonds do we prefer? When it comes to decorating cookies, we like the clean presentation of whole skinless blanched almonds. For other baked goods, leafy salads, and simple side dishes, we find that thinly sliced raw almonds (with or without their skins) deliver a nice, light flavor and texture. In stir-fries and pilafs, we love the substantial crunch of thick-cut slivered almonds. Roasted almonds are best for eating out of hand. As for smoked almonds, we find their bold flavor and crunch are best in snacks like spiced nuts or party mixes. Like all nuts, almonds are highly perishable (the oils in the nuts go rancid quickly) and are best stored in the freezer to prevent spoilage.
Stirring the party mix a couple of times while in the slow cooker is the key to an appealingly crisp mix.
SERVES 10 TO 12 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Crunchy, salty, and borderline addictive, homemade party snack mix is guaranteed to disappear quickly at any gathering. But after making a back-of-the-box party mix recipe, we felt there was room for improvement. We decided to sidestep the conventional oven method in favor of using the slow cooker to create a perfectly toasted party mix every time. We started with the classic combination of Corn, Rice, and Wheat Chex cereals, to which we added pita chips, minipretzels, and dry-roasted peanuts. Tasters preferred the nutty sweetness of melted butter to margarine or olive oil, each of which left a greasy finish. Since Worcestershire sauce was integral to getting that trademark party mix flavor, we decided to add a generous amount to ensure its flavor didn’t become muted in the slow cooker. We also doubled the usual amount of garlic powder and added a little cayenne pepper for subtle heat. To help release excess moisture and ensure our mix wouldn’t get soggy, we removed the lid every hour to stir, which also redistributed the mix so it wouldn’t burn. To finish, we spread the mix out on a rimmed baked sheet to dry and crisp. You can use any combination of cereal here; just be sure to have 9 cups of cereal in total. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Combine cereal, pita chips, minipretzels, and peanuts in slow cooker. Whisk melted butter, Worcestershire, garlic powder, and cayenne together in bowl. Drizzle butter mixture over cereal mixture and gently toss until evenly coated. Cover and cook, stirring every hour, until cereal mixture is toasted and fragrant, 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Transfer cereal mixture to rimmed baking sheet and spread into even layer. Let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes. Serve. (Party mix can be stored at room temperature for up to 1 week.)
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Marinated artichoke hearts are a classic antipasto, but when flavored with little more than oil and garlic they can be boring and one-dimensional. We wanted to revive this dish by using the gentle heat of the slow cooker to infuse the artichokes with deep, complex flavor. Fresh artichokes are not always readily available and can be a hassle to prepare for cooking, so we started with jarred artichoke hearts. Available year-round, they come fully prepped right out of the jar; we simply needed to halve and rinse them, then pat them dry before tossing them in the slow cooker. To flavor the basic marinade, we added some bright lemon zest and juice, red pepper flakes, and a few sprigs of fresh thyme along with the requisite olive oil and garlic. Briny kalamata olives and rich, tangy feta cheese fit in nicely with the Mediterranean theme; we simply stirred the cheese in at the end of cooking to ensure that the cubes wouldn’t lose their shape. While we prefer the flavor and texture of jarred whole baby artichokes, you can substitute 18 ounces frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry, for the jarred. Serve with crusty bread for dipping in the infused oil.
1. Combine artichokes, oil, olives, garlic, thyme sprigs, lemon zest and juice, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes in slow cooker. Cover and cook until heated through and flavors meld, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Discard thyme sprigs. Gently stir in feta and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Marinated artichokes can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
The Best Supermarket Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
Extra-virgin oils range wildly in price, color, and quality, so it’s hard to know which to buy. While many things can affect the quality and flavor of olive oil, the type of olive, the time of harvest (earlier means greener, more bitter, and pungent; later, more mild and buttery), and the processing are the most important factors. The best-quality olive oil comes from olives pressed as quickly as possible without heat (which coaxes more oil from the olives at the expense of flavor). Our favorite supermarket extra-virgin olive oil, California Olive Ranch Everyday Extra Virgin Olive Oil ($9.99 for 500 ml), is a standout for its “fruity,” “fragrant” flavor. In fact, its flavor rivaled that of our favorite high-end extra-virgin oil.
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A classic Italian antipasto, marinated mushrooms are rich with earthy flavor. The right combination of bright acidity, heady herbs, and a fine extra-virgin olive oil should pack each bite with a punch. To create the most flavorful mushrooms possible, we started by microwaving them, which released their moisture and avoided a diluted marinade. Then we simply combined the mushrooms and the marinade ingredients in the slow cooker; after just 2 hours they were tender but not mushy and had absorbed the warm, herb-infused oil. For a finishing touch, we built up the flavor even more by adding Dijon mustard, sherry vinegar, and fresh tarragon to turn that nice herb oil into a great warm vinaigrette. Tasters couldn’t get enough of the mushrooms as a result of this flavor boost. Look for small mushrooms, about 1¼ inches in diameter, for this recipe. If your mushrooms are larger, halve or quarter them before cooking. Serve with crusty bread for dipping in the infused oil.
1. Toss mushrooms with 2 tablespoons oil in bowl and microwave, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms release their liquid and shrink in size, about 10 minutes; drain thoroughly.
2. Combine mushrooms, garlic, thyme sprigs, ¾ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and remaining 6 tablespoons oil in slow cooker. Cover and cook until mushrooms are tender and flavors meld, 1 to 2 hours on low.
3. Discard thyme sprigs. Stir in tarragon, mustard, and vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Marinated mushrooms can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
Convenient jarred artichokes and frozen spinach are quickly transformed into this flavorful, fresh-tasting dip.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 1½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Spinach and artichoke dip is a bona fide crowd-pleaser, but it often ends up watery, bland, and left behind on the buffet table. We wanted a reliable dip that was rich, creamy, and packed with flavorful chunks of artichokes and earthy spinach. We discarded versions with flour-thickened cream mixtures in favor of an easy-prep combination of softened cream cheese and mayonnaise that gave our dip both the creaminess we were after and a subtle tanginess that tasters enjoyed. Jarred artichoke hearts and frozen spinach were easier options than their fresh counterparts; we just made sure to rid them of excess moisture. With a sprinkle of fresh chives, our dip was ready for the party. While we prefer the flavor and texture of jarred whole baby artichokes, you can substitute 18 ounces frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry, for the jarred. Serve with crusty bread, crackers, and/or Crostini.
1. Whisk cream cheese, mayonnaise, water, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and pepper in large bowl until well combined. Gently fold in artichokes and spinach.
2A. FOR 1½- TO 5-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to slow cooker, cover, and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2B. FOR 5½- TO 7-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to 1½-quart soufflé dish. Set dish in slow cooker and pour water into slow cooker until it reaches about one-third up sides of dish (about 2 cups water). Cover and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low. Remove dish from slow cooker, if desired.
3. Gently stir dip to recombine. Sprinkle with chives and serve. (Dip can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
CROSTINI
MAKES 25 TO 30 TOASTS
Crostini taste best straight from the oven.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Arrange bread in single layer on baking sheet. Bake bread until dry and crisp, about 10 minutes, flipping slices over halfway through baking. Rub garlic clove over 1 side of each piece of toasted bread, then brush with oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.
You can serve this warm crab dip right from a small slow cooker, or put it in a soufflé dish if using a large one.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 1½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For an elegant crab dip that tasted first and foremost of crab, we included a full pound of crabmeat and limited the amount of filler. Patting the crabmeat dry was key to ensuring that the dip was creamy but not watery, and adding some traditional Old Bay seasoning balanced the sweet richness of the crabmeat. We tried adding raw onions to the slow cooker, but they never turned tender, so we softened them in the microwave with butter first to give them a head start. We liked a combination of cream cheese and mayonnaise for the mild tanginess and rich texture it lent to our dip. Finishing with a sprinkle of chives instead of the traditional cheese layer gave our creamy dip a lighter, fresher flavor. Do not substitute imitation crabmeat here. Serve with crusty bread, crackers, and/or Crostini.
1. Microwave onion, butter, and Old Bay in large bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Whisk in cream cheese, mayonnaise, and pepper until well combined. Gently fold in crabmeat.
2A. FOR 1½- TO 5-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to slow cooker, cover, and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2B. FOR 5½- TO 7-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to 1½-quart soufflé dish. Set dish in slow cooker and pour water into slow cooker until it reaches about one-third up sides of dish (about 2 cups water). Cover and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low. Remove dish from slow cooker, if desired.
3. Gently stir dip to recombine. Sprinkle with chives and serve. (Dip can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Crabmeat
Check the fish counter for containers of fresh or pasteurized crabmeat. These do cost more than the small cans you’ll find near the tuna, but they’re well worth the additional cost. Depending upon the season, pasteurized crabmeat can cost significantly less than fresh, and it has a long shelf life. You should always use fresh crabmeat for crab cakes, where the texture and flavor of the crab take center stage, but pasteurized crabmeat is fine for dips and casseroles. Jumbo lump is the highest-quality crabmeat (and the most expensive, too) and, as the name suggests, consists of large lumps of meat.
Rosemary and Garlic White Bean Dip
It’s worth using your best extra-virgin olive oil for this simple white bean dip.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 1½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a simple white bean dip to really stand out, it needs to have both a little texture and a lot of flavor. To transform humble legumes into a rich, warm dip worthy of a dinner party, we started with delicately flavored cannellini beans. We processed most of the beans into a smooth puree along with a good dose of extra-virgin olive oil, but we reserved a third of the beans to pulse in at the end for an appealing chunky texture. For bold, aromatic flavor, we stirred in a little garlic, rosemary, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Serve with crusty bread, crackers, and/or Crostini.
1. Process two-thirds of beans, oil, garlic, rosemary, lemon zest and juice, and salt in food processor until smooth, about 10 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add remaining beans and pulse until just incorporated (mixture will be chunky), about 2 pulses.
2A. FOR 1½- TO 5-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to slow cooker, cover, and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2B. FOR 5½- TO 7-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to 1½-quart soufflé dish. Set dish in slow cooker and pour water into slow cooker until it reaches about one-third up sides of dish (about 2 cups water). Cover and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low. Remove dish from slow cooker, if desired.
3. Gently stir dip to recombine and adjust consistency with hot water as needed. Drizzle dip with extra oil and serve. (Dip can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Canned Cannellini Beans
We go through a lot of cannellini beans here in the test kitchen. Their creamy texture and mildly nutty flavor round out soups, casseroles, pasta dishes, and salads alike, and they can also be used to make appealing dips. Our readers love them, too. Seventy-one percent say that they regularly buy canned cannellini beans. We’ve always appreciated the convenience of canned beans for use in quick recipes and their ability to be pureed into perfectly creamy spreads.
Modern canning practices, which vary from brand to brand, generally call for cleaning, sorting, and blanching the beans before sealing them in their cans with water and, often, salt, which flavors the beans and tenderizes the skins. All but one of the products we tasted add calcium chloride, which maintains firmness and prevents splitting, and calcium disodium EDTA, a preservative that binds iron in the water and prevents white beans from turning brown. Sampling the beans plain, in dip, and in soup. we found that seasoning ended up playing the biggest role in our results: Our winning can, made by Goya, was the saltiest in the bunch, while our last-place contender was a no-salt-added organic product.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 1½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Refried bean dip is a staple at any game-day gathering, but it’s often lacking in the flavor department. We ditched the dull-tasting canned refried beans. Instead, we started with canned pinto beans, processed most of them until smooth, then pulsed in some more whole beans to give the dip a chunky texture. Next, we packed in bold flavor with chili powder, garlic, and cumin, as well as a can of spicy Ro-tel Diced Tomatoes & Green Chilies. Finishing it with Monterey Jack cheese and bright cilantro balanced the hearty beans and flavorful spices. Serve with tortilla chips and/or Easy Homemade Pita Chips.
1. Process two-thirds of beans, broth, chili powder, garlic, salt, and cumin in food processor until smooth, about 10 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add tomatoes and remaining beans and pulse until incorporated (mixture will be chunky), about 2 pulses.
2A. FOR 1½- TO 5-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to slow cooker, cover, and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low. Gently stir dip to recombine. Sprinkle with Monterey Jack, cover, and cook on low until cheese is melted, about 5 minutes.
2B. FOR 5½- TO 7-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to 1½-quart soufflé dish. Set dish in slow cooker and pour water into slow cooker until it reaches about one-third up sides of dish (about 2 cups water). Cover and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low. Gently stir dip to recombine, then sprinkle with Monterey Jack. Cover and cook on low until cheese is melted, about 5 minutes. Remove dish from slow cooker, if desired.
3. Sprinkle dip with cilantro and serve. (Dip can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
EASY HOMEMADE PITA CHIPS
MAKES 48 CHIPS
An oil mister works best here, but you can also use olive oil spray. These chips work well with any type of dip.
1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Using kitchen shears, cut around perimeter of each pita bread to yield 2 thin rounds. Stack pita rounds and, using a chef’s knife, cut into 6 wedges each. Spread pita wedges, smooth side down, over 2 rimmed baking sheets. Spray top of each chip with oil, then sprinkle with salt.
2. Bake chips until beginning to crisp and brown lightly, 8 to 10 minutes. Flip chips over so smooth side is facing up and continue to bake until chips are fully toasted, 8 to 10 minutes longer. Remove baking sheets from oven and let cool before serving. (Chips can be stored at room temperature for up to 3 days.)
This taco dip easily delivers great Tex-Mex flavor thanks to store-bought taco seasoning and Ro-tel canned tomatoes.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We set out to develop a hearty, meaty taco dip worthy of eating while watching the big game. We wanted our dip to include plenty of flavorful ground beef, but when we simply stirred raw ground beef into the slow cooker, the dip was a watery, greasy mess. So we partially cooked the ground beef in the microwave to remove moisture and render excess fat. A packet of taco seasoning and a little garlic made quick work of seasoning the beef and helped shorten our ingredient list. To bulk up the meat, we added lots of hearty black beans. Mashing half of the beans and stirring in some shredded Monterey Jack cheese helped to bind everything together. To finish, we topped the dip with more gooey Monterey Jack and a sprinkling of scallions. Serve with tortilla chips and/or Easy Homemade Pita Chips.
1. Microwave ground beef, taco seasoning, and garlic in bowl, stirring occasionally, until beef is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Break up any large pieces of beef with spoon, then drain off excess fat.
2. Using potato masher, mash half of beans with reserved tomato juice in large bowl until mostly smooth. Stir in beef mixture, tomatoes, 1½ cups Monterey Jack, and remaining beans until well combined.
3A. FOR 3- TO 5-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to slow cooker, cover, and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low. Gently stir dip to recombine, then sprinkle with remaining ½ cup Monterey Jack. Cover and cook on low until cheese is melted, about 5 minutes.
3B. FOR 5½- TO 7-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to 1½-quart soufflé dish. Set dish in slow cooker and pour water into slow cooker until it reaches about one-third up sides of dish (about 2 cups water). Cover and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low. Gently stir dip to recombine, then sprinkle with remaining ½ cup Monterey Jack. Cover and cook on low until cheese is melted, about 5 minutes. Remove dish from slow cooker, if desired.
4. Sprinkle dip with scallions and serve. (Dip can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Too often pizza dips try to incorporate the flavors of pizza but end up as dense, greasy cheese bombs. We wanted a pizza-inspired dip that we could actually dip into—without losing half our chip along the way. To start, we combined rich, meltable cream cheese and flavorful pizza sauce for a creamy, tangy base. Then we gradually added mozzarella until we found the perfect balance between a creamy dip and stringy, chewy pizza cheese. Next we added our favorite pizza toppings—spicy pepperoni and earthy mushrooms. To remove the mushrooms’ excess moisture and the pepperoni’s grease, we briefly microwaved them before stirring them into the slow cooker. Though we liked the idea of further imitating pizza by sprinkling an extra layer of cheese over the top, in practice the extra cheese made our dip over-the-top greasy. Instead we reserved a quarter of the mushrooms and pepperoni for the top and garnished it with a little fresh basil. Serve with tortilla chips and/or Easy Homemade Pita Chips.
1. Line large plate with double layer of coffee filters. Spread mushrooms and pepperoni in even layer over filters and microwave until mushrooms have released their liquid and fat begins to render from pepperoni, about 3 minutes. Set aside one-quarter of mushroom-pepperoni mixture for topping.
2. Whisk cream cheese and pizza sauce in large bowl until well combined. Fold in remaining mushroom-pepperoni mixture and mozzarella.
3A. FOR 3- TO 5-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to slow cooker and top with reserved mushroom-pepperoni mixture. Cover and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low.
3B. FOR 5½- TO 7-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to 1½-quart soufflé dish and top with reserved mushroom-pepperoni mixture. Set dish in slow cooker and pour water into slow cooker until it reaches about one-third up sides of dish (about 2 cups water). Cover and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 hours on low. Remove dish from slow cooker, if desired.
4. Gently stir dip to recombine. Sprinkle dip with basil and serve. (Dip can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Pepperoni
Pepperoni dates back to ancient Rome, where it was a convenient food for soldiers on the march. It reached America with the Italian immigrants who arrived around 1900. Pepperoni started being used as a pizza topping in New York City, and its production underwent a total transformation from artisanal to commercial. Today pepperoni is the most-ordered pizza topping in the United States. Pepperoni is made from cured and fermented pork along with just a little beef, and it is seasoned with black pepper, sugar, anise, cayenne, paprika (the source of its orange color), and lots of salt. It should have spice, heat, and chew, and the flavors shouldn’t get lost once baked. Our favorite supermarket brand is Margherita Italian Style Pepperoni.
Cream cheese and a little cornstarch stabilize our flavorful slow-cooker fondue.
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 1½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Fondue can be tricky because it tends to be fussy; to prevent the cheese from separating, it needs to be melted slowly and gently. Once melted, it must be kept at just the right temperature and frequently stirred to keep the fondue from breaking. We wanted to take advantage of the gentle, steady heat of the slow cooker to make a beer and cheddar fondue that would stay creamy for hours unattended. Sharp cheddar had great flavor, but its texture was consistently grainy when melted. We switched to mild cheddar and added highly meltable American cheese to make it even creamier, but our fondue still turned grainy as it sat. To further stabilize it, we added a mixture of cornstarch and cream cheese. Now we had a fondue that stayed creamy without constant stirring. To bring out the flavor of the cheddar, we added some garlic and dry mustard. Finally, for the characteristic malty flavor, we added some mild lager—tasters preferred its milder, less bitter flavor over other styles of beer. This fondue tasted best when made with block cheese that we shredded ourselves; you can find block American cheese at the deli counter. Preshredded cheese will work, but the fondue will be much thicker. For dipping we like to use bread, apple slices, steamed broccoli and cauliflower florets, and cured meats. Be sure to have long skewers on hand for easy dipping.
1. Microwave beer, cream cheese, cornstarch, garlic, mustard, and pepper in large bowl, whisking occasionally, until smooth and thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in cheddar and American cheeses until combined.
2A. FOR 1½- TO 5-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to slow cooker, cover, and cook until cheese is melted, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2B. FOR 5½- TO 7-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to 1½-quart soufflé dish. Set dish in slow cooker and pour water into slow cooker until it reaches about one-third up sides of dish (about 2 cups water). Cover and cook until cheese is melted, 1 to 2 hours on low. Remove dish from slow cooker, if desired.
3. Whisk fondue until smooth. Serve. (Fondue can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours. Adjust consistency with hot water as needed, adding 2 tablespoons at a time.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
The Color of Cheddar
If you live in the Midwest, your cheddar is probably orange. If you live in the Northeast, your cheddar is definitely white. Our test cooks have strong opinions about which color cheese tastes better (lining up with where they grew up). To settle the matter, we blindfolded 10 cooks and editors and had them taste two national brands of sharp white and orange (sometimes labeled yellow) cheddar, plain and in macaroni and cheese. Only one taster was able to distinguish flavor differences between the two colors of cheddar (and was that just blind luck?). Orange cheddars are colored with ground annatto seeds. These seeds, called achiote in Latin cooking, are used to color butter and margarine, too. Don’t let regionalism color your perception: Color has no flavor.
A combination of shredded American cheese and Monterey Jack gives this queso dip its melty texture and big flavor.
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 1½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chile con queso has fallen on hard times; often it’s just Ro-tel Diced Tomatoes & Green Chilies mixed with Velveeta, microwaved, and stirred. We wanted to keep the simplicity but ditch the plastic flavor and waxy texture. We started with a base of chicken broth, cream cheese, and cornstarch to help stabilize the cheese and prevent it from breaking. For the cheeses, we chose Monterey Jack for its great flavor and American cheese for its superior meltability. We kept the classic Ro-tel tomatoes but bumped up their flavor even more with garlic and canned chipotle chile. This dip tasted best when made with block cheese that we shredded ourselves; you can find block American cheese at the deli counter. Preshredded cheese will work, but the dip will be much thicker. If you prefer a mild chili con queso, omit the chipotle. Serve with tortilla chips and/or Easy Homemade Pita Chips.
1. Microwave broth, cream cheese, cornstarch, chipotle, garlic, and pepper in large bowl, whisking occasionally, until smooth and thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in Monterey Jack and American cheeses until well combined.
2A. FOR 1½- TO 5-QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to slow cooker, cover, and cook until cheese is melted, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2B. FOR 5½– TO 7–QUART SLOW COOKER Transfer mixture to 1½-quart soufflé dish. Set dish in slow cooker and pour water into slow cooker until it reaches about one-third up sides of dish (about 2 cups water). Cover and cook until cheese is melted, 1 to 2 hours on low. Remove dish from slow cooker, if desired.
3. Whisk dip until smooth, then stir in tomatoes. Serve. (Dip can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours. Adjust consistency with hot water as needed, adding 2 tablespoons at a time.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Using a Soufflé Dish in the Slow Cooker
While a large slow cooker is great for cooking up big batches of soups, stews, and braises for a crowd, the large amount of space is problematic for smaller dishes like dips, which end up spreading out too thin and burning or cooking unevenly. To solve this problem, we assemble the recipe in a 1½-quart soufflé dish, then place the dish in the slow cooker. To encourage even heat transfer, we pour about 2 cups of water into the slow cooker to make a simple water bath. Once the dip is cooked, the soufflé dish can be removed from the slow cooker for serving.
Baked Brie with Figs, Walnuts, and Herbs
Supermarket Brie is completely transformed into an elegant starter when figs, herbs, walnuts, and honey are added.
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME ABOUT 1 HOUR ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Baked Brie is a party favorite, but all too often it winds up a congealed mess as it cools instead of the warm, dippable concoction that everyone finds so irresistible. Enter the slow cooker, where making it is supereasy plus you can serve it right out of the slow cooker or out of a warm soufflé dish—ensuring that it will stay appealing longer. For an elegant take on the classic, we decided to pair the Brie with earthy dried figs and toasted chopped walnuts. For sweet and creamy flavor in every bite, we first trimmed off the rind (which doesn’t melt that well) and cut the cheese into cubes. Slicing the figs in half allowed for better distribution of fruit without the pieces getting lost in the cheese. The addition of thyme provided a little earthiness that complemented both the cheese and the fruit. The result? Our fig-herb mixture was evenly distributed throughout the dish, not just spooned on top. A drizzle of honey and some minced chives before serving reinforced the sweet-savory flavor profile, while toasted walnuts added a subtle smoky crunch. Be sure to use a firm, fairly unripe Brie for this recipe. Serve with crusty bread, crackers, and/or Crostini.
1A. FOR 3½- TO 5-QUART SLOW COOKER Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine Brie, figs, thyme, and pepper in prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook until Brie is heated through and begins to soften around edges, about 1 hour on low.
1B. FOR 5½– TO 7–QUART SLOW COOKER Lightly coat 1½-quart soufflé dish with vegetable oil spray. Combine Brie, figs, thyme, and pepper in prepared dish. Set dish in slow cooker and pour water into slow cooker until it reaches about one-third up sides of dish (about 2 cups water). Cover and cook until Brie is heated through and begins to soften around edges, about 1 hour on low. Remove dish from slow cooker, if desired.
2. Drizzle Brie with honey and sprinkle with walnuts and chives. Serve. (Brie can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
CUTTING RIND OFF BRIE
1. Using serrated knife, carefully slice top and bottom rind off wheel of Brie.
2. Trim rind from sides.
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cocktail franks are a classic kid-friendly party favorite. For an adult take on this hors d’oeuvre, we decided to go with kielbasa. And this appealing appetizer was made even easier by using the slow cooker, where the kielbasa could gently simmer hands-free in a flavorful sauce without worry of scorching. Since the sauce was to be the star here, we skipped the bottled variety in favor of creating a simple homemade sauce. Starting with tangy ketchup, we added some molasses for its rich sweetness and Dijon mustard and cider vinegar for a dose of acidity. A combination of chili powder and cayenne added complex but not overwhelming heat.
Combine ketchup, molasses, vinegar, mustard, sugar, chili powder, and cayenne in slow cooker. Stir in kielbasa, cover, and cook until heated through and flavors meld, 1 to 2 hours on low. Serve. (Kielbasa can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours. Adjust sauce consistency with hot water as needed, adding 2 tablespoons at a time.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Kielbasa
Kielbasa, or Polish sausage, is a smoked pork sausage that sometimes has beef added and is usually sold precooked. We tasted five national supermarket brands, and we highly recommend Wellshire Farms Smoked Polska Kielbasa. It is naturally smoked and had a meaty, complex flavor and a hearty texture compared to the springy, hot dog–like textures of the others.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS CHICKEN WINGS
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
Great wings should have juicy, tender meat and a crisp coating. You might not consider making them in your slow cooker, especially when trying to achieve both is challenging to do simultaneously. The gentle heat of the slow cooker is great for achieving meltingly tender wings, but terrible at producing a good crisp coating. However, great wings are possible in the slow cooker with a little re-imagination. To add serious flavor, we first tossed the wings with a hefty blend of spices and aromatics. We then cooked the wings on low for 4 to 5 hours, which ensured they remained moist and became perfectly tender. For a crisp exterior, a few minutes under the broiler was all it took. We found that basting the wings with sauce while they broiled kept the skin from fully crisping. Instead, we broiled the wings sans sauce and gently tossed them with it after broiling. These recipes can easily be doubled in a 7-quart slow cooker; you will need to broil the wings in two batches.
1 BUFFALO CHICKEN WINGS
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Toss chicken with paprika, cayenne, salt, and pepper in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element; heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet; coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer chicken to prepared rack. Broil chicken until lightly charred and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling.
3. Whisk hot sauce, melted butter, and molasses in large bowl until combined. Gently toss chicken with sauce to coat. Serve.
2 KOREAN CHICKEN WINGS
Gochujang, a Korean chile-soybean paste, can be found in Asian markets and in some supermarkets. If you can’t find gochujang, substitute an equal amount of Sriracha sauce and add only 2 tablespoons of water to the sauce.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Toss chicken with 5 teaspoons ginger, two-thirds of garlic, pepper, and salt in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element; heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet; coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer chicken to prepared rack. Broil chicken until lightly charred and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling.
3. Whisk sugar, gochujang, water, soy sauce, sesame oil, remaining 1 teaspoon ginger, and remaining garlic in large bowl until sugar is dissolved. Gently toss chicken with sauce to coat. Serve.
3 SMOKY BARBECUE CHICKEN WINGS
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Toss chicken with paprika, chili powder, salt, pepper, and cayenne in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element; heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet; coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer chicken to prepared rack. Broil chicken until lightly charred and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling.
3. Whisk ketchup, molasses, mustard, vinegar, sugar, and liquid smoke in large bowl until sugar is dissolved. Gently toss chicken with sauce to coat. Serve.
4 MANGO-CURRY CHICKEN WINGS
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Toss chicken with paprika, curry powder, cumin, salt, and pepper in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element; heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet; coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer chicken to prepared rack. Broil chicken until lightly charred and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling.
3. Whisk chutney, shallot, water, cilantro, and lime zest together in bowl. Gently toss chicken with sauce to coat. Serve.
5 HONEY-MUSTARD CHICKEN WINGS
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Toss chicken with onion powder, salt, pepper, and cayenne in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element; heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet; coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer chicken to prepared rack. Broil chicken until lightly charred and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling.
3. Whisk mustard and honey together in large bowl. Gently toss chicken with sauce to coat. Serve.
CUTTING UP CHICKEN WINGS
1. Using kitchen shears or sharp chef’s knife, cut through joint between drumette and wingette.
2. Cut off and discard wingtip.
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME ABOUT 1 HOUR ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Delicate, fast-cooking shrimp and the slow cooker may seem like an impossible pairing, but the slow, gentle heat of the slow cooker is actually terrific for producing tender shrimp without the fear of overcooking. With that in mind, we set out to create a classic garlic shrimp recipe that would infuse the shrimp with plenty of rich, garlicky flavor. We started by cooking sliced garlic and spices in oil for 30 minutes to soften the raw flavor of the garlic and allow the spices’ flavors to bloom. Once the oil was sufficiently flavored, we stirred in the shrimp. A mere 20-minute poach in the garlicky oil was enough to cook and season the shrimp. Serve with crusty bread for dipping in the infused oil.
Combine oil, garlic, paprika, salt, pepper, and pepper flakes in slow cooker. Cover and cook until flavors meld, about 30 minutes on high. Stir in shrimp, cover, and cook on high until opaque throughout, about 20 minutes, stirring halfway through cooking. Transfer shrimp and oil mixture to serving dish. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
PEELING AND DEVEINING SHRIMP
1. Break shell under swimming legs, which will come off as shell is removed. Leave tail intact if desired, or tug tail to remove.
2. Use paring knife to make shallow cut along back of shrimp to expose vein. Use tip of knife to lift out vein. Discard vein by wiping blade against paper towel.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Shrimp Basics
BUYING SHRIMP Virtually all of the shrimp sold in supermarkets today have been previously frozen, either in large blocks of ice or by a method called “individually quick-frozen,” or IQF for short. Supermarkets simply defrost the shrimp before displaying them on ice at the fish counter. We highly recommend purchasing bags of still-frozen shrimp and defrosting them as needed at home, since there is no telling how long “fresh” shrimp may have been kept on ice at the market. IQF shrimp have a better flavor and texture than shrimp frozen in blocks, and they are convenient because it’s easy to defrost just the amount you need. Shrimp are sold both with and without their shells, but we find shell-on shrimp to be firmer and sweeter. Also, shrimp should be the only ingredient listed on the bag; some packagers add preservatives, but we find treated shrimp to have an unpleasant, rubbery texture.
SORTING OUT SHRIMP SIZES Shrimp are sold both by size (small, medium, etc.) and by the number needed to make 1 pound, usually given in a range. Choosing shrimp by the numerical rating is more accurate, because the size labels vary from store to store. Here’s how the two sizing systems generally compare:
| Small | 51 to 60 per pound |
| Medium | 41 to 50 per pound |
| Medium-Large | 31 to 40 per pound |
| Large | 26 to 30 per pound |
| Extra-Large | 21 to 25 per pound |
| Jumbo | 16 to 20 per pound |
DEFROSTING SHRIMP You can thaw frozen shrimp overnight in the refrigerator in a covered bowl. For a quicker thaw, place them in a colander under cold running water; they will be ready in a few minutes. Thoroughly dry the shrimp before cooking.
We bake these party-worthy meatballs briefly before adding them to the slow cooker to remove excess fat.
SERVES 10 TO 12
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Swedish meatballs have long been standard cocktail party fare, but rolling and browning dozens of little meatballs and then building a sauce leave little time to get everything (including the host) ready before company arrives. Enter our recipe for Swedish Meatballs—prepared in the slow cooker. To keep our recipe’s sauce from becoming greasy, we put our meatballs in the oven for 15 minutes, allowing much of their fat to render and collect on the bottom of the pan. Cooking our meatballs in the oven also allowed us to brown them before adding them to the slow cooker. For a quick sauce, we started with a base of flour-and-butter roux and beef broth, which cooked down to the perfect consistency to coat the meatballs. A couple tablespoons of soy sauce gave our sauce a rich, meaty backbone without overpowering the other ingredients. Lingonberry preserves are a traditional accompaniment for Swedish meatballs. If you can’t find lingonberry preserves, cranberry preserves can be used.
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook until softened, about 8 minutes; transfer to large bowl. Add bread, ¼ cup broth, ¼ cup sour cream, egg yolks, allspice, nutmeg, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and mash with fork until smooth. Add ground beef and ground pork and knead with hands until well combined.
2. Pinch off and roll meat mixture into tablespoon-size meatballs (about 60 meatballs) and arrange on prepared rack. Bake until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Transfer meatballs to slow cooker.
3. Melt remaining 5 tablespoons butter in now-empty skillet over medium heat. Add flour and cook, whisking often, until beginning to brown, about 3 minutes. Slowly whisk in remaining 3¼ cups broth, smoothing out any lumps, and bring to simmer; transfer to slow cooker. Cover and cook until meatballs are tender and sauce is slightly thickened, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Using large spoon, skim excess fat from surface of sauce. Whisk ½ cup sauce, soy sauce, dill, and remaining ¾ cup sour cream together in bowl (to temper), then gently stir mixture back into slow cooker. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with extra dill and serve. (Meatballs can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours. Adjust sauce consistency with hot water as needed, adding 2 tablespoons at a time.)
Turkey-Pesto Cocktail Meatballs
Homemade pesto adds rich flavor to these turkey meatballs.
SERVES 12 TO 14 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Slow-cooker cocktail meatballs are a great way to feed a crowd—a big batch can gently simmer away before guests arrive, then be served warm right out of the slow cooker. We wanted a classic Italian-inspired turkey meatball and marinara dish that would be easy to prepare and would deliver on flavor, with a tangy tomato sauce and tender meatballs. Fresh pesto gave our meatballs bright flavor, while Parmesan both added complexity and reinforced the Italian flavors. The addition of panko bread crumbs and egg yolks acted as a binder and kept the meatballs moist and tender. Before adding the meatballs to the slow cooker we baked them to get rid of excess fat and to firm them up just enough so they wouldn’t fall apart in the slow cooker’s moist environment. A little reserved pesto added just before serving kept this dish fresh and bright. Be sure to use ground turkey, not ground turkey breast (also labeled 99 percent fat-free), in this recipe.
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray. Process basil and garlic in food processor until finely ground, about 30 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. With processor running, slowly add oil and process until smooth, about 30 seconds. Measure out and reserve 2 tablespoons pesto for serving. Transfer remaining pesto to large bowl.
2. Stir Parmesan, panko, egg yolks, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper into remaining pesto. Add ground turkey and knead with hands until well combined. Pinch off and roll turkey mixture into tablespoon-size meatballs (about 60 meatballs) and arrange on prepared rack. Bake until no longer pink, about 10 minutes. Transfer meatballs to slow cooker.
3. Gently stir tomatoes and ½ teaspoon salt into slow cooker, cover, and cook until meatballs are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Using large spoon, skim excess fat from surface of sauce. Stir reserved pesto into meatballs and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Meatballs can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours. Adjust sauce consistency with hot water as needed, adding 2 tablespoons at a time.)
BRUISING BASIL
To release the full range of flavor from basil, place the leaves in a zipper-lock bag and gently pound with a meat pounder or the end of a rolling pin until the leaves are darkened in color.
Studded with potatoes and red bell pepper, this classic tortilla turns out perfectly in the slow cooker.
SERVES 8 VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Served with a garlicky aïoli, Spanish tortilla makes a great tapas dish. Worried that the simplest version of a tortilla would be bland after emerging from a slow cooker, we chose to add red bell pepper and peas to the mix, along with a hefty dose of minced garlic and fresh oregano. To ensure that the potatoes were perfectly cooked, we sliced them thin and then microwaved them before adding them to the slow cooker. Placing an aluminum foil collar and a foil liner in the slow cooker before assembling the tortilla prevented overbrowning and made the tortilla easy to remove and serve. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Serve with Garlic Aïoli.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar, then line with foil liner and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Microwave potatoes, onions, bell pepper, oil, garlic, oregano, and pepper flakes in large covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are nearly tender, about 9 minutes. Stir in peas, then transfer potato mixture to prepared slow cooker.
2. Whisk eggs, salt, and pepper together in bowl, then pour mixture evenly over potato mixture. Gently press potato mixture into egg mixture. Cover and cook until center of tortilla is just set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
3. Turn slow cooker off and let tortilla rest, covered, until fully set, about 20 minutes. Using foil liner, transfer tortilla to serving platter and serve.
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
GARLIC AÏOLI
MAKES 1¼ CUPS
Using a combination of vegetable oil and extra-virgin olive oil is crucial to the flavor of the aïoli.
Process egg yolks, mustard, lemon juice, and garlic in food processor until combined, about 10 seconds. With processor running, slowly drizzle in vegetable oil, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to medium bowl and whisk in water, salt, and pepper. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in olive oil. (Aïoli can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.)
CHAPTER 2
BROTHS
All-Purpose Vegetable Broth ■ ■
SOUPS
Vietnamese Beef and Noodle Soup ■ ■
Japanese Pork and Ramen Soup ■
Italian Meatball and Escarole Soup ■
Old-Fashioned Chicken Noodle Soup ■
Spring Vegetable Chicken Soup ■
Spicy Chipotle Chicken Noodle Soup ■
Curried Chicken and Couscous Soup ■
Chinese Chicken and Ramen Soup ■
Thai Chicken and Coconut Soup ■
Hearty Turkey and Vegetable Soup ■ ■
Cajun Shrimp and Corn Chowder ■
Garden Minestrone ■ ■ ■ ■
Miso Soup with Shiitakes and Sweet Potatoes ■ ■ ■
Portuguese Potato and Kale Soup ■
Split Pea Soup ■ ■
Tuscan White Bean Soup ■ ■ ■
U.S. Senate Navy Bean Soup ■ ■
Black Bean Soup ■ ■ ■
15-Bean Soup with Sausage and Spinach ■ ■ ■
Moroccan Lentil Soup with Mustard Greens ■ ■ ■ ■
STEWS
Pork and White Bean Stew with Kale ■ ■
Brazilian Black Bean and Pork Stew ■
Chicken Stew with Sausage and White Beans
Fisherman’s Stew ■ ■
Quinoa and Vegetable Stew ■ ■ ■
Farro and Butternut Squash Stew ■ ■ ■
Wheat Berry and Wild Mushroom Stew ■ ■ ■ ■
CHILIS
New Mexican Red Pork Chili ■ ■
Tomatillo Chili with Pork and Hominy ■
Hearty Vegetarian Chili ■ ■ ■ ■
Black Bean Chili ■ ■ ■
Cuban White Bean and Plantain Chili ■ ■ ■
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
■ EASY PREP
■ VEGETARIAN
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
One of the best (and simplest) ways to stock your freezer with chicken broth is to make it in the slow cooker.
MAKES 3 QUARTS ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 6 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chicken broth is one of the most versatile and often-used ingredients in any kitchen. But while making a successful broth on the stovetop can be a tedious task, an equally tasty slow-cooker version is a breeze. Searching for a broth with unadulterated chicken flavor, we tested many combinations of chicken parts, finding a whole cut-up chicken too fussy, and chicken backs, legs, and necks too liver-y. Chicken wings were the surprise winner—the resulting broth was remarkably clear and refined, and the long simmering time eked out every last bit of flavor from the chicken bones. Roasting the chicken wings was an easy way to incorporate dark color and pleasantly deep caramelized flavor. Additionally, we found that an onion, a little garlic, and some salt were all we needed to complement, and not distract from, the chicken.
1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Distribute chicken and onion evenly on prepared sheet and roast until golden, about 40 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir water, garlic, and salt into slow cooker, cover, and cook until broth is deeply flavored and rich, 6 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 6 hours on high.
3. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer into large container, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of broth. (Broth can be refrigerated for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 2 months.)
MAKES 3 QUARTS
COOKING TIME 4 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Rich, deep beef broth is a must-have in any cook’s kitchen, and with the help of the slow cooker it can be whipped up with ease. Hoping to avoid the work involved in cutting up beef chuck or in dealing with beef bones, we turned to ground beef for a quicker beef broth—its increased surface area enables more beef flavor to be absorbed by the liquid. For additional meaty undertones, we included a full pound of white mushrooms, which we sautéed with onions and tomato paste before browning the beef, and we also added some soy sauce to the slow cooker (both tomato paste and soy sauce add depth of flavor without calling attention to themselves). To round out our broth, we added red wine for color and acidity, and an onion, carrot, and celery rib for sweetness.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms, onion, and tomato paste, cover, and cook until mushrooms are softened, 5 to 10 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until mushrooms are dry and browned, 5 to 10 minutes.
2. Stir in ground beef and cook, breaking up any large pieces with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated, 5 to 7 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir water, carrot, celery, soy sauce, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Cover and cook until broth is deeply flavored and rich, 4 to 6 hours on low.
4. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer into large container, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of broth. (Broth can be refrigerated for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 2 months.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Storing and Freezing Broth
Broth can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to four days or frozen for up to two months. When freezing broth, we like to portion it into either a nonstick muffin tin or freezer-safe zipper-lock bags. To release frozen broth from a muffin tin, simply twist the tin as you would an ice-cube tray; once frozen, the blocks of broth can be stored more efficiently in a zipper-lock bag. If portioning the broth directly into zipper-lock bags, use a 4-cup liquid measure (or a large yogurt container) to support the bag and hold it open while filling it; the bags of broth can be laid flat in the freezer to save space.
MAKES 3 QUARTS VEG ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 11 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 8 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Vegetable broth is essential to full-flavored vegetarian cooking, enhancing meat-free dishes with clean vegetal flavor. It needs gentle cooking, and the slow cooker is the perfect medium in which to bring out the subtlety of many types of vegetables. First, we found that a base of onions, scallions, carrots, and celery along with a generous dose of garlic provided a strong background to the broth that was neither too vegetal nor too sweet. The addition of half a head of cauliflower, cut into florets and added with the water, gave our broth pleasant earthiness and nuttiness. Finally, a single tomato added acidic balance, and thyme sprigs, bay leaves, and peppercorns rounded out the flavors. Although we wanted to be able to dump all the vegetables into the cooker raw, we found that we needed the additional flavor developed from browning the aromatics. We chose a longer cooking time than we used for our meat-based broths so that the flavor of all the different vegetables could shine through. To avoid a cloudy broth, do not press on the solids when straining.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions, scallions, carrots, celery, and garlic and cook until vegetables are softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in 1 cup water, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir remaining 11 cups water, cauliflower, tomato, thyme sprigs, peppercorns, salt, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Cover and cook until broth is deeply flavored and rich, 9 to 11 hours on low or 6 to 8 hours on high.
3. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer into large container, without pressing on solids. (Broth can be refrigerated for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 2 months.)
REMOVING FAT FROM BROTH
Let the broth settle, then use a large, flat spoon to skim the fat off the surface. Be sure to hold the spoon parallel to the surface of the soup; you want to collect as little broth as possible.
Blade steaks become meltingly tender in the slow cooker and can be easily shredded at the end of the cooking time.
SERVES 6 TO 8 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To build a flavorful base for this simple but comforting soup in a slow cooker, we needed to get out our skillet to sauté a hefty amount of onions with tomato paste and thyme and then deglaze the pan with wine, scraping up the flavorful browned bits left behind. This simple step made a world of difference in the soup’s flavor and allowed us to skip the tedious process of browning the meat. To simplify things further we used trimmed beef blade steak, which we shredded after it had become meltingly tender in the slow cooker—no need to cut the meat into pieces to start. The addition of soy sauce to the broth base added a surprising amount of flavor. Since pearl barley can absorb two to three times its volume in cooking liquid, we needed to be judicious in the quantity we added to the soup. A modest ¼ cup was all that was needed to lend a pleasing velvety texture without overfilling the slow cooker with swollen grains. Do not substitute hulled, hull-less, quick-cooking, or presteamed barley (read the ingredient list on the package to determine this) in this recipe. You can substitute an equal amount of beef flat-iron steaks, if desired.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir tomatoes and their juice, broth, carrots, soy sauce, barley, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Season steaks with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until steaks are tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
3. Discard bay leaves. Transfer steaks to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat and gristle. Stir beef into soup and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
TRIMMING BLADE STEAKS
To trim blade steaks, halve each steak lengthwise, leaving the gristle on one half. Then simply cut the gristle away.
Old-fashioned oxtail soup is tailor-made for the slow cooker, and here we load it up with carrots and parsnips.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Oxtail soup rarely shows up on the dinner table these days. While it offers deep flavor, rich body, and fall-apart-tender meat (thanks to a significant amount of gelatin), it requires hours of gentle simmering to extract the flavor of the marrow inside the bones and to break down the collagen. We wanted to put the slow cooker to work and bring oxtail soup back to the menu. All the oxtails needed was some salt and pepper and plenty of hands-off time in the slow cooker to become meltingly tender. To complement the rich meat, we chose hearty, earthy carrots and parsnips for our vegetables. To round out the soup, we added store-bought beef broth and a combination of onions, tomato paste, and thyme. A sprinkle of fresh parsley before serving added an herbal flavor. Oxtails can often be found in the freezer section of the grocery store; if using frozen oxtails, be sure to thaw them completely before using.
1. Microwave onions, tomato paste, oil, and thyme in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, carrots, parsnips, and bay leaves. Season oxtails with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until oxtails are tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
2. Transfer oxtails to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat and bones. Discard bay leaves. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of soup.
3. Stir beef into soup and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Oxtails
Depending on which part of the tail they come from, oxtail pieces can vary in diameter from ¾ inch to 4 inches. (Thicker pieces are cut close to the body; thinner pieces come from the end of the tail.) Try to buy oxtail packages with pieces approximately 2 inches thick and between 2 and 4 inches in diameter; they will yield more meat for the soup. Thicker pieces also lend more flavor to the broth. It’s fine to use a few small pieces; just don’t rely on them exclusively.
Vietnamese Beef and Noodle Soup
Beefy blade steaks can cook all day in the slow cooker, making them the perfect choice for this aromatic soup.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With its richly perfumed broth and mix of raw/cooked and hot/cold ingredients, this Southeast Asian soup (called pho) seemed like a long shot for the slow cooker. But it turned out to be one of our easiest soups. Fish sauce and soy sauce punched up store-bought broth, which we further enhanced with bruised lemon grass, star anise, and cloves. And blade steak was a great and easy choice for this soup since it is so full of rich beefy flavor. Surprisingly, finicky rice noodles worked perfectly in the slow cooker; since the liquid didn’t come to a full boil, the noodles cooked gently and did not break apart or turn mushy. Finishing with the requisite garnishes created a perfectly balanced soup. You can substitute an equal amount of beef flat-iron steaks, if desired.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, water, fish sauce, soy sauce, lemon grass, star anise, and cloves. Season steaks with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until steaks are tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
2. Transfer steaks to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat and gristle. Discard lemon grass, star anise, and cloves.
3. Stir noodles into soup, cover, and cook on high until tender, 10 to 20 minutes. Stir in beef and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in cilantro and scallions. Serve, passing bean sprouts, basil sprigs, lime wedges, hoisin, Sriracha, and extra fish sauce separately.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A great ramen soup requires a great broth, and to accomplish this in a slow cooker we enhanced store-bought chicken broth with onions, garlic, and ginger at the beginning of cooking, then stirred in white miso (fermented soybean paste), soy sauce, mirin (Japanese rice wine), and sesame oil at the end. The combination of boneless country-style pork ribs, which are easy to shred after cooking, and hearty shiitakes imparted an intense, meaty flavor to the finished soup. Fresh spinach, stirred in toward the end, added an earthy flavor, and supermarket ramen noodles cooked perfectly in the same amount of time as the spinach. The spinach may seem like a lot at first, but it wilts down substantially. Look for country-style pork ribs with lots of fat and dark meat, and stay away from ribs that look overly lean with pale meat, as they will taste very dry after the extended cooking time.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, ginger, and vegetable oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth and mushrooms. Season ribs with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until ribs are tender, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Transfer ribs to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat.
3. Stir noodles and then spinach, 1 handful at a time, into soup, cover, and cook on high until noodles are tender, about 8 minutes. Whisk miso, soy sauce, mirin, and sesame oil together in bowl until miso is fully dissolved. Stir miso mixture and pork into soup and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in scallions and season with extra soy sauce to taste. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with sesame seeds.
SERVES 6 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Hearty beans, delicate meatballs, and wilted greens make for a classic Italian soup, but timing this dish in a slow cooker took extra care. While most bean-based soups start with cooking dried beans for hours before adding the meatballs, this just would not work in the slow cooker. Rather than settle for tough meatballs or undercooked beans, we reached for canned beans and broth to which we added onion, garlic, and red pepper flakes. For the meatballs we used ground turkey, which was lean but still full of flavor. To protect the lean meat from drying out, we mixed it with a panade (a combination of bread and milk) as well as some Parmesan and an egg yolk for flavor and richness. Searing the meatballs in a skillet before adding them to the slow cooker allowed them to keep their shape and added meaty flavor to the broth. Since we had the skillet out, we used it to sauté our aromatics to further enhance their flavor. Escarole, stirred in toward the end, rounded out our soup perfectly, adding freshness and color. The escarole may seem like a lot at first, but it all wilts down. Be sure to use ground turkey, not ground turkey breast (also labeled 99 percent fat-free), in this recipe.
1. Mash bread, milk, Parmesan, parsley, egg yolk, oregano, half of garlic, and ½ teaspoon pepper into paste in large bowl using fork. Add ground turkey and hand-knead until well combined. Pinch off and roll turkey mixture into tablespoon-size meatballs (about 24 meatballs).
2. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Brown half of meatballs on all sides, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Repeat with remaining 1 teaspoon oil and remaining meatballs; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in pepper flakes and remaining garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds; transfer to slow cooker. Gently stir in broth and beans, cover, and cook until meatballs are tender, 4 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 5 hours on high.
4. Stir escarole into soup, 1 handful at a time, cover, and cook on high until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS CHICKEN SOUP
SERVES 6 TO 8 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
Making a deeply flavored chicken noodle soup in the slow cooker is surprisingly easy, but it requires getting out a skillet to start things off right. We found that searing skin-on chicken breasts and using the flavorful fat to sweat our vegetables and aromatics gave us unbelievable depth of flavor. We then removed the skin from the chicken to prevent too much fat from getting into our soup. Using chicken broth instead of water also gave us a backbone of flavor. We tried many iterations of cooking our noodles in the soup but found that the heat of the slow cooker was not sufficient to cook the noodles (or pasta or couscous, depending on the recipe) properly, so we cooked them on the side and added them at the end; ramen noodles, however, which we used in our Chinese take on chicken soup, can be added right to the slow cooker at the end. You can substitute bone-in chicken thighs for the bone-in breasts, if desired; increase the cooking time to 4 to 5 hours.
1 OLD-FASHIONED CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels; season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken, 3 to 4 minutes per side; transfer to plate and discard skin.
2. Add carrots, celery, onion, and ¾ teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet; cook over medium heat until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and thyme; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir in remaining 9 cups broth. Nestle chicken into slow cooker, cover, and cook until chicken is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low.
4. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add noodles and 1½ teaspoons salt; cook until al dente. Drain noodles, rinse with cold water, then toss with remaining 1 teaspoon oil.
5. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces; discard bones. Stir noodles, chicken, and peas into soup; let sit for 5 minutes. Stir in parsley; season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
2 SPRING VEGETABLE CHICKEN SOUP
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels; season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken, 3 to 4 minutes per side; transfer to plate and discard skin.
2. Add onion and ¾ teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet; cook over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and thyme; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir in remaining 9 cups broth. Nestle chicken into slow cooker, cover, and cook until chicken is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low.
4. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add pasta and 1½ teaspoons salt; cook until al dente. Drain pasta, rinse with cold water, then toss with remaining 1 teaspoon oil.
5. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces; discard bones. Stir lima beans and zucchini into soup, cover, and cook on high until tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in noodles and chicken; let sit for 5 minutes. Stir in Parmesan and basil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
3 SPICY CHIPOTLE CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels; season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken, 3 to 4 minutes per side; transfer to plate and discard skin.
2. Add chipotle, garlic, tomato paste, oregano, cumin, and ¾ teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir in remaining 9 cups broth and tomatoes. Nestle chicken into slow cooker, cover, and cook until chicken is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low.
4. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add noodles and 1½ teaspoons salt; cook until al dente. Drain noodles, rinse with cold water, then toss with remaining 1 teaspoon oil.
5. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces; discard bones. Stir noodles, chicken, and corn into soup; let sit for 5 minutes. Stir in cilantro; season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
4 CURRIED CHICKEN AND COUSCOUS SOUP
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels; season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken, 3 to 4 minutes per side; transfer to plate and discard skin.
2. Add chard stems, carrots, and ¾ teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet; cook over medium heat until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in ginger, curry powder, and tomato paste and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir in remaining 9 cups broth. Nestle chicken into slow cooker, cover, and cook until chicken is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low.
4. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add couscous and 1½ teaspoons salt; cook until al dente. Drain couscous, rinse with cold water, then toss with remaining 1 teaspoon oil.
5. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces; discard bones. Stir chard leaves into soup, cover, and cook on high until tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in couscous and chicken; let sit for 5 minutes. Stir in mint and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
5 CHINESE CHICKEN AND RAMEN SOUP
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels; season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken, 3 to 4 minutes per side; transfer to plate and discard skin.
2. Add carrots to fat left in skillet; cook over medium heat until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in ginger and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir in remaining 9 cups broth, soy sauce, and star anise. Nestle chicken into slow cooker, cover, and cook until chicken is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low.
4. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces; discard bones. Discard star anise. Stir noodles and cabbage into soup, cover, and cook on high until noodles are tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in chicken; let sit for 5 minutes. Stir in scallions and sesame oil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
We add pieces of corn tortilla to the slow cooker for flavor and thickening, and then crisp up strips for the topping.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This turbocharged take on chicken soup features a spicy, tomatoey broth overflowing with garnishes and tender shredded chicken. To replicate the traditionally deep, smoky, roasted flavor of the broth in a slow cooker, typically achieved by charring the vegetables, we browned some of the vegetables in a skillet before adding them to the slow cooker. Using chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (which are dried, smoked jalapeños in a spicy chile sauce) also added some smokiness along with a spicy kick. For even more heat, include the jalapeño seeds. Don’t omit the garnishes; the flavor of the soup depends heavily on them.
1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add tomatoes, onion, half of jalapeños, garlic, 2 teaspoons chipotle, and tomato paste and cook until onion is softened and beginning to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir remaining 5 cups broth and tortilla pieces into slow cooker. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
3. Meanwhile, wipe skillet clean with paper towels. Heat remaining 1 cup oil in skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add tortilla strips and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer tortilla strips to paper towel–lined plate; discard remaining oil. Season tortilla strips with salt to taste and let cool slightly to crisp.
4. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks. Whisk soup vigorously for 30 seconds to break down tortilla pieces. Stir in chicken, remaining jalapeños, and remaining 1 teaspoon chipotle and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing tortilla strips, Cotija, avocado, sour cream, cilantro, and lime wedges separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Chipotle Chiles in Adobo
Canned chipotle chiles are jalapeños that have been ripened until red, then smoked and dried. They are sold either as is, ground to a powder, or packed in a tomato-based sauce (which we prefer). These chiles will keep for two weeks in the refrigerator, or they can be frozen for up to two months. To freeze, puree the chiles and quick-freeze teaspoonfuls on a plastic wrap–covered plate. Once the chiles are hard, transfer them to a zipper-lock freezer bag.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Thai-style chicken soup (aka tom kha gai) is famous for its exotic balance of sweet, spicy, and sour flavors. Though recipes for this soup usually call for foreign ingredients like galangal, kaffir lime leaves, and bird’s-eye chiles, we swapped them out for supermarket staples like ginger, limes, and Thai red curry paste. Adding some of the coconut milk to the soup just before serving (warmed, so it doesn’t cool off the soup) helped deepen the sweet coconut flavor.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, ginger, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, 1 can coconut milk, lemon grass, carrots, 1 tablespoon fish sauce, and cilantro sprigs. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks. Discard lemon grass and cilantro sprigs.
3. Stir mushrooms into soup, cover, and cook on high until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, microwave remaining 1 can coconut milk, remaining 2 tablespoons fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, and curry paste in bowl, whisking occasionally, until hot, about 3 minutes. Stir hot coconut milk mixture and chicken into soup and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with extra fish sauce to taste. Serve, passing cilantro leaves, lime wedges, and scallions separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Broth
Even though homemade broths taste better (click here for more information), the reality is that the majority of home cooks rely on supermarket broth for most recipes. When selecting store-bought broth, it’s important to choose wisely since what you use can have a big impact on your final dish. We prefer chicken broth to beef broth and vegetable broth for its stronger, cleaner flavor, though all have their place in our recipes.
CHICKEN BROTH We like chicken broths with short ingredient lists that include a relatively high percentage of meat-based protein and flavor-boosting vegetables like carrots, celery, and onions. We also like a lower sodium content—less than 700 milligrams per serving. Our favorite brand is Swanson Chicken Stock.
VEGETABLE BROTH We’ve found that the top brands of vegetable broth have a hefty amount of salt and enough vegetable content to be listed on the ingredient list. Because store-bought vegetable broths tend to be sweet, we often mix vegetable broth with chicken broth for the best flavor. Our favorite brand is Orrington Farms Vegan Chicken Flavored Broth Base & Seasoning.
BEEF BROTH We’ve found the best beef broths have concentrated beef stock and flavor-enhancing ingredients such as tomato paste and yeast extract near the top of their ingredient lists. Our favorite brand is Better Than Bouillon Roasted Beef Base.
CLAM JUICE Bottled clam juice conveniently brings a bright and mineral-y flavor to seafood dishes. Our favorite, Bar Harbor Clam Juice, comes from the shores of clam country in Maine.
SHREDDING MEAT
To shred chicken, beef, or pork into bite-size pieces or large chunks, hold a fork in each hand, with the tines facing down. Insert the tines into the cooked meat and gently pull the forks away from each other, breaking the meat apart and into the desired pieces.
Turkey thighs get star billing in this hearty soup, which also includes brown rice that is added after the turkey is tender.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Turkey soup is a dish perfectly suited for a slow cooker. The hearty flavor of turkey translates easily into a full-flavored soup without requiring any tricks, and turkey thighs (which we prefer for soup) seem to have been designed for the slow cooker’s low and steady cooking environment. Turkey thighs, which are made up entirely of dark meat, are quite big and thick, which means they are nearly impossible to overcook, and they have lots of flavor to spare. (As a bonus, they’re cheap, too!) Be sure to use instant rice (sometimes labeled minute rice); traditional rice takes much longer to cook and won’t work here. You can substitute an equal amount of bone-in chicken thighs for the turkey, if desired; reduce the cooking time to 4 to 5 hours.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, oil, tomato paste, thyme, and ¾ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, carrots, celery, and bay leaves. Season turkey with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until turkey is tender, 6 to 7 hours on low.
2. Transfer turkey to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard bones. Discard bay leaves.
3. Stir rice into soup, cover, and cook on high until tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir in turkey and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In this recipe, turkey delivers a full-flavored soup without requiring a lot of extra steps. To complement the meaty turkey thighs, we microwaved leeks and colorful chard stems to bring out their sweetness, which added valuable depth to the broth. Chopped chard leaves were added during the last 20 minutes of cooking for an earthy, colorful contrast. Orzo was the perfect addition to this soup, adding substance. You can substitute an equal amount of bone-in chicken thighs for the turkey, if desired; reduce the cooking time to 4 to 5 hours.
1. Microwave leeks, chard stems, 1 tablespoon oil, tomato paste, thyme, and ¾ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, carrots, and bay leaves. Season turkey with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until turkey is tender, 6 to 7 hours on low.
2. Meanwhile, bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add orzo and 1½ teaspoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain orzo, rinse with cold water, then toss with remaining 1 teaspoon oil in bowl; set aside.
3. Transfer turkey to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard bones. Discard bay leaves.
4. Stir chard leaves into soup, cover, and cook on high until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Stir in orzo and turkey and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
PREPARING HEARTY GREENS
1. Cut away leafy portion from either side of stalk or stem using chef’s knife.
2. Stack several leaves and either slice leaves crosswise or cut into pieces as directed in recipe. Wash and dry cut leaves using salad spinner.
3. If using Swiss chard stems in recipe, cut into pieces as directed after separating from leafy portion. (Discard collard and kale stems.)
After making an ultra-flavorful broth in the slow cooker, we add the cod and squid and cook them for just 20 minutes.
SERVES 6 LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 6 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Just about every country with a coastline has a seafood soup specialty, and this one takes its inspiration from Spain’s classic version known as zarzuela. Chock full of fish, this tomato-based soup is seasoned with saffron and paprika and finished with a picada, a flavorful mixture of bread crumbs, finely chopped almonds, and olive oil. We began with a sofrito of onion, bell pepper, and garlic, to which we added tomato paste and a large amount of paprika, plus saffron, red pepper flakes, and bay leaves to create a rich foundation for our broth. A bottle of clam juice added the requisite briny seafood flavor, and a little wine added depth. And since the base of our soup was so rich and fragrant, we found that we could simply add water to achieve the right consistency. Adding the seafood at the end ensured that it was cooked perfectly. Finished with the picada and a drizzle of olive oil, this seafood soup tasted rich and hearty. Halibut and haddock are good substitutes for the cod. If desired, you can omit the squid in this recipe and increase the amount of cod to 1½ pounds. Serve with crusty bread or Garlic Toasts to dip into the broth.
1. Microwave onion, bell pepper, garlic, 1 tablespoon oil, tomato paste, paprika, ½ teaspoon salt, saffron, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes and their juice, water, clam juice, wine, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until flavors meld, 6 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 6 hours on high.
2. Season cod and squid with salt and pepper and stir into soup. Cover and cook on high until cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife, 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add panko and almonds and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer panko mixture to bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste; set aside until ready to serve.
4. Discard bay leaves. Gently stir parsley into soup and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, topping individual portions with panko mixture and drizzling with extra oil.
Lemon grass, ginger, and fish sauce are the keys to this sweet and spicy Thai soup.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 6 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Inspired by the popular tom yum soup from Thailand, a sweet and spicy soup packed with herbs and spices, we set out to create a version in our slow cooker that was both light and complexly flavored, balancing hot, salty, sweet, and sour elements. Microwaving our aromatics with sesame oil allowed the ingredients to meld and the scallions to release their flavor once added to the soup. A small amount of chili-garlic sauce provided heat, and the saltiness came via fish sauce. Lemon grass was an essential ingredient in this soup, lending a subtle, fragrant lemon essence without harsh citrus notes. This dish traditionally includes shrimp, and to ensure that the shrimp didn’t overcook, we added them at the end and let them cook through on high for 15 minutes. The sweet and fresh flavors of a papaya salad seasoned with Thai basil and sesame oil made a zesty and bright topping. The final result: an easy, aromatic, and tasty Thai-style soup.
1. Microwave scallion whites, garlic, and 1 teaspoon oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, lemon grass, ginger, fish sauce, chili-garlic sauce, and sugar. Cover and cook until flavors meld, 6 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 6 hours on high.
2. Discard lemon grass and ginger. Stir shrimp and mushrooms into soup, cover, and cook on high until shrimp are opaque throughout, 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Combine papaya, basil, lime juice, and remaining 1 teaspoon oil in bowl. Stir tomatoes and scallion greens into soup. Season with salt, pepper, and extra fish sauce to taste. Serve, topping individual portions with papaya mixture.
BRUISING LEMON GRASS
Trim and discard all but bottom 6 inches of stalk. Peel off discolored outer layer, then lightly smash stalk with back of chef’s knife.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 5 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Achieving fresh corn flavor in a chowder can be a challenge, but we were determined to develop a foolproof recipe for corn chowder in a slow cooker. We started with frozen corn, which was convenient and available any time of year. We found that the trick to getting fresh corn flavor from frozen corn was to puree a portion of the corn in a blender before adding it to the soup. Not only did this amplify the corn’s flavor, but the starch released by the pureed corn helped to thicken the chowder. We added the remaining corn at the end of cooking for color and a satisfying crunch. To give our chowder a Cajun feel, we added shrimp, andouille sausage, bell pepper, and Cajun seasoning. Stirring the shrimp in toward the end of cooking allowed us to monitor them closely and ensure they did not overcook.
1. Process 4 cups corn and 2 cups broth in blender until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of blender jar as needed; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Microwave andouille, garlic, and Cajun seasoning in bowl, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in potatoes and remaining 1 cup broth, cover, and cook until flavors meld and potatoes are tender, 5 to 7 hours on low or 3 to 5 hours on high.
3. Stir remaining 2 cups corn, shrimp, and bell pepper into soup. Cover and cook on high until shrimp are opaque throughout, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in cream and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
For meaty depth of flavor, we simply add uncooked slices of bacon to the chowder as it simmers in the slow cooker.
SERVES 6 LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Manhattan clam chowder has a delicate harmony of briny seafood, acidic notes, and creamy potatoes, all in a rich, tomatoey broth. Getting the proper balance of tomato to clam took some ingenuity. After pureeing a large can of whole tomatoes to set up our base, we used a bottle of clam juice along with the juice from canned clams to give us the seafood flavor we were looking for. Because the acidity of the tomatoes slowed the breakdown of starches in the potatoes, we had to give the potato pieces enough time to cook all the way through. For a meaty flavor we did something unorthodox: We added uncooked slices of bacon directly to the slow cooker and removed them before serving. This gave the soup a savory depth without the presence of bits of bacon and avoided an overt pork taste. To finish, we added a little sherry for sweetness and parsley for brightness.
1. Process tomatoes and their juice in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Microwave onion, tomato paste, garlic, oregano, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in potatoes, reserved clam juice, bottled clam juice, bacon, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
3. Discard bacon and bay leaves. Stir clams into chowder and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and sherry and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Apple butter and soy sauce mimic the sweet caramelized flavor that is the hallmark of French onion soup.
SERVES 6 TO 8 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 10 TO 12 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This soup is so rich and flavorful and so packed with darkly caramelized onions that no one would ever imagine it was made in a slow cooker. The secret? For the roasted beefy flavor that usually comes only with homemade beef broth, we microwaved beef bones before tucking them into the slow cooker around the onions. As for the onions, we had to be inventive given the moist heat of the slow cooker; through trial and error, we found that a mix of apple butter and soy sauce gave the onions a silken texture and deep color that made them taste like they had spent hours browning on the stovetop. Beef bones can often be found in the freezer section of the grocery store; if using frozen beef bones, be sure to thaw them completely before using.
1. Line large plate with double layer of coffee filters. Working in batches, arrange beef bones on prepared plate and microwave until well browned, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Toss onions with melted butter, sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, and thyme in slow cooker. Whisk flour, apple butter, sherry, and soy sauce in bowl until smooth, then stir into slow cooker. Nestle bones into slow cooker, cover, and cook until onions are softened and deep golden brown, 10 to 12 hours on high.
3. Discard beef bones. Bring broth to boil in saucepan, then stir into slow cooker. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Just before serving, position oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Lay baguette slices on rimmed baking sheet and broil until crisp and golden, about 2 minutes per side. Sprinkle Gruyère over 1 side of croutons and continue to broil until melted and bubbly, 3 to 5 minutes. Ladle soup into individual serving bowls and top with cheese croutons. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Onions
Many supermarkets stock a half-dozen types of onions. Here are the onions that you will find in most markets.
YELLOW ONIONS These strong-flavored onions maintain their potency when cooked, making them our first choice for cooking.
WHITE ONIONS These pungent onions are similar to yellow onions but lack some of their complexity.
RED ONIONS These crisp onions have a sweet, peppery flavor when raw and are often used in salads.
SWEET ONIONS Vidalia, Maui, and Walla Walla are three common sweet varieties. Their texture can become stringy when cooked, so they are best used raw.
PEARL ONIONS These crunchy small onions are generally used in soups, stews, and side dishes. Peeling them is a chore, so we recommend buying frozen pearl onions that are already peeled.
SHALLOTS Shallots have a complex, subtly sweet flavor. When cooked, they become very soft and almost melt away, making them the perfect choice for sauces.
SCALLIONS Scallions have an earthy flavor and a delicate crunch and are best in dishes that involve little cooking.
BUYING AND STORING ONIONS Choose rock-hard onions with dry, papery skins. Avoid onions with green sprouts. Store at room temperature, away from light. Store scallions in the refrigerator, covered loosely with a plastic bag.
A little cream and dry sherry take the flavor and texture of this tomato soup up a notch at the end of the slow cooking.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 4 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Making a deeply flavored tomato soup is hard enough on the stovetop, but getting the consistency right in a slow cooker seemed daunting at best. First, there was the issue of the tomatoes (fresh or canned?), and second, the matter of technique (how to add flavor and texture to the soup). Since perfectly ripe tomatoes are available just a few weeks a year, we turned to our trusty standby, canned diced tomatoes, which are reliable and prep-free. As for technique, we started by building an aromatic base by microwaving onion and other aromatic ingredients. To add richness, we incorporated heavy cream and dry sherry after the soup was pureed. Serve with Classic Croutons.
1. Microwave onion, butter, flour, sugar, tomato paste, ½ teaspoon salt, and cayenne in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes and their juice, broth, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until flavors meld, 4 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 5 hours on high.
2. Discard bay leaves. Working in batches, process soup in blender until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Return soup to slow cooker and stir in cream and sherry. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
CLASSIC CROUTONS
MAKES 3 CUPS
Either fresh or stale bread can be used in this recipe, although stale bread is easier to cut and crisps more quickly in the oven.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Toss bread with melted butter, season with salt and pepper, and spread onto rimmed baking sheet. Bake until golden brown and crisp, 20 to 25 minutes, stirring halfway through baking. Let cool and serve. (Croutons can be stored at room temperature for up to 3 days.)
VARIATION
GARLIC CROUTONS
Whisk 1 minced garlic clove into melted butter before tossing with bread.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Pureeing Soup
Here’s what you need to know for the best results. And because pureeing hot soup can be dangerous, follow our safety tips.
BLENDER IS BEST The blade on the blender does the best job with soups because it pulls ingredients down from the top of the container. No stray bits go untouched by the blade. And as long as plenty of headroom is left at the top of the blender, there is no leakage.
IMMERSION BLENDER LEAVES BITS BEHIND The immersion blender is appealing given that it travels to the pot, but we found that it can leave unblended bits of food behind.
PROCESS WITH CAUTION The food processor does a decent job of pureeing, but small bits of vegetables can get trapped under the blade. More troubling is the fact that a food processor tends to leak hot liquid.
WAIT BEFORE BLENDING, AND BLEND IN BATCHES When blending hot soup, wait 5 minutes for moderate cooling, and fill the blender only two-thirds full; otherwise, the soup can explode out the top. In addition, hold the lid securely with a folded dish towel to keep it in place and to protect your hand from hot steam. And pulse several times before blending continuously.
You can add dried beans right to the slow cooker—no soaking required when making this fresh and easy minestrone.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Creating anything garden-fresh in a slow cooker is a tall order, but we were willing to try to beat the odds and develop a recipe for a bright, lively tasting minestrone that married a flavorful tomato broth with fresh vegetables, beans, and pasta. The base of our soup would be our broth, and after microwaving the aromatics we added broth and canned tomato sauce along with carrots and dried beans—both of which could sustain a long stay in a slow cooker. Sliced zucchini and chopped chard were simply added during the last 20 minutes of cooking, and the precooked pasta was stirred in at the end. Serve with crusty bread or Garlic Toasts to dip into the broth.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, 1 tablespoon oil, oregano, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, tomato sauce, beans, and carrots. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 10 hours on high.
2. Meanwhile, bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add pasta and 1½ teaspoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain pasta, rinse with cold water, then toss with remaining 1 teaspoon oil in bowl; set aside.
3. Stir zucchini and chard into soup, cover, and cook on high until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Stir in pasta and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing Parmesan and extra oil separately.
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
GARLIC TOASTS
MAKES 8 SLICES
Be sure to use a high-quality crusty bread, such as a baguette; do not use sliced sandwich bread.
Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Spread bread evenly in rimmed baking sheet and broil, flipping as needed, until well toasted on both sides, about 4 minutes. Briefly rub 1 side of each toast with garlic, drizzle with oil, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A great miso soup is all about the rich, flavorful broth. We started with water for the liquid base and infused it with a hearty amount of shiitake mushrooms, scallions, ginger, garlic, sesame oil, and red pepper flakes. We tried different types of miso, but tasters preferred the traditional white variety for its mild and slightly sweet flavor. Before adding the miso to the slow cooker, we found it best to thin the thick paste with a small amount of water to ensure that it would be fully incorporated into the soup. For extra protein we bumped up the amount of tofu, which is traditional in miso soup, and selected the extra-firm variety, as it held its shape best during cooking. For an interesting twist we added sweet potatoes for a little sweetness, and stirred in watercress for a fresh, peppery finish. You can substitute firm tofu here if desired; avoid silken, soft, or medium-firm tofu, as these varieties will break down while cooking.
1. Microwave mushrooms, scallions, ginger, garlic, oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Whisk 1 cup water and miso in now-empty bowl until miso is fully dissolved. Stir miso mixture, tofu, potatoes, soy sauce, and remaining 5 cups water into slow cooker. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 4 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 5 hours on high.
3. Discard ginger. Stir in watercress and let sit until slightly wilted, about 3 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and extra soy sauce to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Miso
Made from a fermented mixture of soybeans and rice, barley, or rye, miso is incredibly versatile, as it is suitable for use in soups, braises, dressings, and sauces. This salty, deep-flavored paste ranges in strength and color from mild pale yellow (referred to as white) to stronger-flavored red or brownish black, depending on the fermentation method and ingredients.
Portuguese Potato and Kale Soup
This rustic soup is supereasy to make, and a hefty dose of kale, added at the end, adds bright flavor.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Most recipes for this classic Portuguese soup use spicy chorizo sausage. While this sausage imparted smoky, meaty flavor, its flavors became dull while in the slow cooker. Looking for ways to compensate for the loss of flavor, we added chili powder, oregano, and minced chipotle chile. And microwaving them with the aromatics bloomed their flavors further. Stirring in kale toward the end prevented the hearty greens from tasting washed out but ensured they would be perfectly tender. Serve with crusty bread or Garlic Toasts to dip into the broth.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, oil, chili powder, oregano, and chipotle in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, potatoes, and chorizo, cover, and cook until potatoes are tender, 4 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 5 hours on high.
2. Stir kale into soup, cover, and cook on high until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing extra oil separately.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To give our split pea soup a rich, smoky flavor, we used a 1-pound ham steak in addition to a smoked ham hock. After the soup was done, we removed the ham steak and ham hock. We then shredded the ham steak (and discarded the ham hock) and returned the meat to the soup. Merely whisking the soup right before serving ensured that all the peas had broken down and that the soup was smooth. Ham hocks often can be found near the ham and bacon in the supermarket.
1. Microwave onions, celery, butter, garlic, thyme, ¾ teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water, peas, ham steak, ham hock, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until peas are tender, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
2. Transfer ham steak to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks. Discard ham hock and bay leaves.
3. Whisk soup vigorously until peas are broken down and soup thickens, about 30 seconds. Stir in ham and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With few ingredients to distract from flaws like mushy beans or a thin broth, Tuscan White Bean Soup is rarely well prepared in a slow cooker. To create a richly perfumed base for our soup, we microwaved a hefty amount of flavorful pancetta along with a lot of onion and garlic. We added dried beans straight to the slow cooker, where the gentle simmering heat helped them cook through evenly. Rosemary is traditional in this soup, but after several hours it gave the broth a bitter, medicinal taste. Placing a sprig of rosemary in the soup to steep for a few minutes at the end of cooking allowed us to achieve just the right amount of fresh rosemary flavor. Serve with crusty bread or Garlic Toasts to dip into the broth.
1. Microwave onions, pancetta, garlic, oil, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, water, beans, Parmesan rind (if using), and bay leaves. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 10 hours on high.
2. Nestle rosemary sprig into soup, cover, and cook on high until rosemary is fragrant, about 15 minutes.
3. Discard rosemary sprig, bay leaves, and Parmesan rind, if using. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing grated Parmesan and extra oil separately.
PICKING OVER AND RINSING DRIED BEANS
Before cooking dried beans, you should pick them over for any small stones or debris and then rinse them. The easiest way to check for small stones is to spread the beans out over a large plate or rimmed baking sheet.
A ham steak and ham hock combo guarantees that this navy bean soup has deep, meaty, smoky flavor.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This simple ham and bean soup is a long-standing tradition on the U.S. Senate lunch menu, but it doesn’t always live up to its reputation. Often the beans are tough or overcooked, the ham flavor is weak, and the broth is thin. We wondered if we could add more heft to this humble soup. To give the soup more robust ham flavor, we found that a combination of ham hock and ham steak was ideal for both a nice smoky flavor and lots of meaty bites of ham. To keep the soup’s saltiness under control, we rinsed the ham hock before cooking and replaced the chicken broth with water. We added dried navy beans straight to the slow cooker, where the gentle simmering heat helped them cook through evenly. By the time the ham hock was tender, the beans were perfectly cooked. Carrots made our soup even heartier, and onions and garlic deepened its flavor. A splash of red wine vinegar added just before serving helped to balance the rich, meaty soup with a little acidity. Ham hocks often can be found near the ham and bacon in the supermarket.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, oil, and thyme in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water, beans, ham hock, ham steak, carrots, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 10 hours on high.
2. Transfer ham hock and ham steak to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat, skin, and bones. Discard bay leaves.
3. Stir ham into soup and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar and season with salt, pepper, and extra vinegar to taste. Serve.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To create an easy black bean soup that was robust even after hours in the slow cooker, we added chili powder to our microwaved aromatics, tossed in a smoked ham hock (which we later shredded), and included chopped celery and carrot. We added dried black beans straight to the slow cooker where the gentle simmering heat would help them cook through evenly. As for texture, we tried thickeners such as flour, but they only muted the overall flavor of the soup. Mashing some of the cooked beans and stirring them back into the finished soup worked best, providing excellent body and intensifying flavors as well. To add a touch of brightness, we stirred in minced fresh cilantro. Serve this soup with minced red onion, sour cream, and hot sauce.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, oil, and chili powder in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, water, beans, ham hock, celery, carrots, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 10 hours on high.
2. Transfer ham hock to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat, skin, and bones. Discard bay leaves.
3. Mash portion of beans with potato masher until soup is thickened to desired consistency. Stir in ham and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Storing and Reheating Soups, Stews, and Chilis
As tempting as it might seem, do not transfer hot foods straight to the refrigerator. This can increase the fridge’s internal temperature to unsafe levels, which is dangerous for all the other food stored there. Letting the pot cool on the countertop for an hour helps its temperature drop to about 75 degrees, at which point you can transfer it safely to the fridge.
To reheat soups, stews, and chilis, we prefer to simmer them gently on the stovetop in a heavy-bottomed pot, but a spin in the microwave works, too. Just be sure to cover the dish to prevent a mess. And note that while most soups, stews, and chilis freeze just fine, those that contain dairy or pasta do not—the dairy curdles as it freezes, and the pasta turns bloated and mushy. Instead, make and freeze the dish without including the dairy or pasta. After thawing the soup, stew, or chili, and heating it through, stir in the uncooked pasta and simmer until just tender, or stir in the dairy and continue to heat gently until hot (do not boil).
15-Bean Soup with Sausage and Spinach
Convenient 15-bean soup mix and already cooked chicken sausage yield a soup with surprising heartiness and flavor.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With 15-bean soup mix as our inspiration, we set out to make an easy bean soup with meaty undertones, a bright flavor, and an appealingly chunky texture. Our first step was to ditch the flavoring packets that come with these soup mixes because their dried seasonings and bits of vegetables offered up zero flavor but a lot of sodium. Instead, a combination of onion, garlic, thyme, and red pepper flakes provided a nice balance of oniony aromatics and herbs, and fresh white mushrooms (for mild mushroom flavor) rounded out the flavor of this simple soup. For heartiness we added precooked chicken sausage, which held up during the long cooking time and kept this soup on the lighter side. We stirred in spinach at the end of cooking and allowed it to wilt slightly, adding a fresh, bright element to the soup.
1. Microwave sausage, onion, garlic, thyme, pepper flakes, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, water, beans, mushrooms, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 10 hours on high.
2. Discard bay leaves. Stir in spinach, 1 handful at a time, and let sit until wilted, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To create a cohesive lentil soup in the slow cooker, we started by microwaving aromatics with Moroccan spices—coriander, garam masala, and cayenne—for a deep, round flavor. For our base we used vegetable broth for its light and slightly sweet flavor. As for the type of lentils, we found that French green lentils did the best job of retaining their texture, shape, and flavor through the long simmer. To finish, we wanted a new and interesting flavor. Dates are a common Moroccan ingredient, and we found that they imparted a nutty, sweet flavor to the broth. Also added at the end, mustard greens offered the perfect balance to the warm spices in this dish, adding a subtle peppery bitterness. To add a little acidity and tang we topped the soup with a mixture of Greek yogurt, parsley, and lemon juice for a perfect balance. We prefer French green lentils, or lentilles du Puy, for this recipe, but it will work with any type of lentil except red or yellow. If you can’t find mustard greens, you can substitute kale.
1. Microwave onion, oil, garlic, garam masala, coriander, ¼ teaspoon salt, and cayenne in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth and lentils, cover, and cook until lentils are tender, 7 to 9 hours on low or 4 to 6 hours on high.
2. Stir mustard greens and dates into soup, cover, and cook on high until greens are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Combine yogurt, parsley, lemon juice, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, topping individual portions with yogurt mixture.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Getting to Know Lentils
Lentils come in dozens of sizes and colors, and the variations in flavor and color are considerable. We evaluated the most commonly available types of lentils in terms of taste, texture, and appearance. Here’s what we found.
BROWN AND GREEN LENTILS These larger lentils are what you’ll find in every supermarket. They are a uniform drab brown or green. They have a mild yet light and earthy flavor and a creamy texture. They hold their shape well when cooked and have tender insides. These are all-purpose lentils, great in soups and salads or tossed with olive oil and herbs.
LENTILLES DU PUY These French lentils are smaller than the common brown and green varieties. They are a dark olive-green, almost black. We love them for their rich, earthy, complex flavor and firm yet tender texture. They keep their shape and look beautiful on the plate when cooked, so they’re perfect for salads and dishes where the lentils take center stage.
RED AND YELLOW LENTILS These small, split orange-red or golden-yellow lentils completely disintegrate when cooked. If you are looking for a lentil that will quickly break down into a thick puree, this is the one to use.
BLACK LENTILS Like lentilles du Puy, black lentils are slightly smaller than the standard brown and green lentils. They have a deep black hue similar to the color of caviar. In fact, some markets refer to them as beluga lentils. They have a robust, earthy flavor and hold their shape well when cooked, but their skins can make dishes dark and muddy.
WHITE LENTILS White lentils are simply skinned and split black lentils. They have a unique flavor similar to that of mung beans. Like red and yellow lentils, they disintegrate as they cook, and they boast a particularly viscous, starchy texture that makes for a great soup.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS BEEF STEW
SERVES 6 TO 8 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
Achieving big, bold flavor in beef stew usually requires browning the meat, a tedious task that is done in stages and takes time. We wanted to streamline the process while still getting the beefy flavor. To this end, we found that browning only half of the beef still gave us the same flavor without the extra work. We then bolstered the base of the stews with hearty tomato paste, garlic, and onions to achieve maximum impact, deglazing our pan to preserve our precious flavors. We chose to thicken most of the stews with flour, blooming it in the fat of the meat and creating a simple roux. The Catalan Beef Stew also benefited from the addition of chopped nuts and parsley, which acted as both thickener and flavor enhancer. Switching out our vegetables and aromatics in each stew gave us a wide variety of hearty stews from which to choose for a satisfying slow-cooked dinner.
1 HEARTY BEEF STEW
1. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of beef on all sides, about 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker with remaining uncooked beef.
2. Add onions to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir potatoes, carrots, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Discard bay leaves. Stir in peas and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
2 PROVENÇAL BEEF STEW
1. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of beef on all sides, about 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker with remaining uncooked beef.
2. Add onions to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, mushrooms, garlic, rosemary, and anchovy and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir carrots, tomatoes, and orange zest into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high. Stir in olives and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
3 CATALAN BEEF STEW
1. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of beef on all sides, about 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker with remaining uncooked beef.
2. Add mushrooms and onions to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, garlic, paprika, and cinnamon and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir tomatoes into slow cooker, cover, and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high. Stir in almonds, parsley, and vinegar, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
4 MOROCCAN-SPICED BEEF STEW
1. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of beef on all sides, about 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker with remaining uncooked beef.
2. Add onions to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, garlic, paprika, garam masala, and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir chickpeas, carrots, figs, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high. Discard bay leaves. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
5 SPICY KOREAN BEEF STEW
1. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat vegetable oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of beef on all sides, about 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker with remaining uncooked beef.
2. Add onions to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in flour, ginger, and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth and mirin, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir 2 cups kimchi into slow cooker, cover, and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Stir sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, and remaining 1 cup kimchi into stew and let sit for 5 minutes. Season with extra soy sauce to taste. Serve, topping individual portions with bean sprouts and scallions.
SERVES 8 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To ensure a rich-tasting, company-worthy beef burgundy, we decided it was worth a little extra prep time. So to start, we browned half the meat in a skillet (the other half can be added raw to the slow cooker). Then we boosted the base of the stew by sautéing bacon with a hefty amount of garlic and thyme and adding tomato paste for sweetness and soy sauce for extra meatiness. To keep the flavor of the wine in balance, we added half of it at the outset and then reduced the remaining half to mellow its sharpness before adding it to the stew at the end. Frozen pearl onions made things easy; we simply cooked them through and browned them in a skillet before adding them and browned mushrooms to the finished stew. Use a good-quality medium-bodied wine, such as a Côtes du Rhône or Pinot Noir, for this stew.
1. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of beef on all sides, about 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker along with remaining uncooked beef.
2. Add bacon to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in onions and carrot and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, garlic, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in 1¼ cups wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir broth, soy sauce, and bay leaves into slow cooker, cover, and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. About 30 minutes before serving, bring pearl onions, ½ cup water, butter, and sugar to simmer in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Cover and cook until onions are fully thawed and tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until all liquid evaporates, about 4 minutes. Stir in mushrooms and cook until vegetables are browned and glazed, 8 to 12 minutes. Discard bay leaves and stir onion-mushroom mixture into stew.
5. Bring remaining 1¼ cups wine to simmer in now-empty skillet and cook until reduced by half, 6 to 8 minutes; stir into stew. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
CUTTING STEW MEAT
1. Pull apart roast at its major seams (delineated by lines of fat and silverskin). Use knife as necessary.
2. With knife, trim off excess fat and silverskin.
3. Cut meat into pieces as directed in recipe.
Pork and White Bean Stew with Kale
A hefty dose of whole-grain mustard added before serving brings zesty flavor to this rustic pork and bean stew.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 6 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a real stick-to-your-ribs meal, we used a classic white bean stew as a starting point and incorporated meaty pork and earthy kale. Boneless country-style pork ribs required minimal prep work, and thanks to plenty of intramuscular fat they were moist and fall-apart tender after several hours in the slow cooker. Dried beans were still undercooked by the time the pork was done, but canned white beans cooked through perfectly in the same amount of time and required little preparation. To give the stew body, we pureed a portion of the beans with broth before adding them to the slow cooker. To boost the fresh flavor of the stew and complement the rich pork and beans, we added 2 tablespoons of whole-grain mustard after the kale had cooked through. Cutting the kale into 1-inch pieces allowed the hearty green to become tender in just 20 minutes of cooking time. Look for country-style pork ribs with lots of fat and dark meat, and stay away from ribs that look overly lean with pale meat, as they will taste very dry after the extended cooking time.
1. Process one-third of beans and 1 cup broth in blender until smooth, about 30 seconds; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Microwave onions, oil, garlic, thyme, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in remaining beans and remaining 3 cups broth. Season pork with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 6 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 6 hours on high.
3. Stir in kale, cover, and cook on high until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in mustard and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, drizzling individual portions with extra oil.
SERVES 6 TO 8 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Inspired by the meaty Brazilian stew known as feijoada, this slow-cooker recipe is packed with creamy black beans and tender, juicy chunks of pork and has an intense, smoky flavor. To start, we relied on sautéing bacon with onions, garlic, tomato paste, and a trio of spices—chili powder, cumin, and coriander—to build a strong foundation. Since the black beans didn’t require soaking, we simply added them to the slow cooker next, along with the pork and broth, and allowed everything to cook until tender. The addition of a little kielbasa sausage to the mix was untraditional but added even more smoky, meaty flavor. Serving this stew with the traditional salsa-like Brazilian hot sauce added the perfect tangy background for the rich flavors of the dish. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket.
1. FOR THE STEW Cook bacon in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in onions and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, garlic, chili powder, cumin, and coriander and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in water, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir broth, beans, kielbasa, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Season pork with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
3. FOR THE HOT SAUCE Combine all ingredients in bowl and let sit at room temperature until flavors meld, about 30 minutes. (Hot sauce can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
4. Discard bay leaves. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with hot sauce.
Browning boneless, skinless chicken thighs imparts extra flavor to this classic and rich chicken stew.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make a chicken stew in which the simple, pure flavor of a rich broth married with tender chicken and vegetables would shine through, we had to start by browning boneless, skinless thighs, which both gave them extra flavor and rendered some of their fat and juice (which later made their way into the slow cooker). We also sautéed aromatics with a little tomato paste, which added richness without a noticeable tomatoey presence. In early tests we discovered that our chunky potatoes as well as the sliced carrots were just not tender by the time the chicken had finished cooking. So we gave them a head start by briefly simmering them in the skillet with the aromatics, which ensured that we could have tender vegetables in our finished stew.
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of chicken, about 4 minutes per side; transfer to slow cooker. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining chicken; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, tomato paste, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in 2 cups broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps. Stir in potatoes and carrots and bring to simmer. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until vegetables just begin to soften, about 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 2 cups broth and bay leaves into slow cooker, cover, and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks. Discard bay leaves.
5. Stir chicken and peas into stew and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Chicken Stew with Sausage and White Beans
For welcome fresh flavor we add 6 ounces of baby spinach to this stew and let it wilt down before serving.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This hearty stew takes its inspiration from classic Tuscan white bean stew, only here we combined meaty chicken thighs with sausage. We found it was worth getting out the skillet to brown the chicken and sausage and sauté the aromatics and fennel, as this step added a richer, deeper flavor. The sliced fennel, thyme, and red pepper flakes complemented the flavors of the Italian sausage. The spinach may seem like a lot at first, but it wilts down substantially. A sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese enhances the other flavors in the stew. Serve with crusty bread or Garlic Toasts.
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of chicken, about 4 minutes per side; transfer to slow cooker. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining chicken; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add sausage and cook, breaking up meat into rough 1-inch pieces with wooden spoon, until browned, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer sausage to slow cooker.
3. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet, add onions and fennel, and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, tomato paste, thyme, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in 1 cup broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
4. Stir remaining 3 cups broth, beans, and bay leaves into slow cooker, cover, and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
5. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks. Discard bay leaves.
6. Stir chicken into stew, then stir in spinach, 1 handful at a time, and let sit until wilted, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with Parmesan.
Served with a rouille and garlic toasts, our slow-cooker chicken bouillabaisse will be the star of any dinner party.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Swapping in readily available chicken thighs for the numerous and expensive varieties of fish in traditional bouillabaisse made this update of the classic Provençal recipe an equally delicious but far more practical dish, especially for the slow cooker. It is still a stunningly flavorful dish rich with garlic, fennel, orange, and saffron, not to mention the classic rouille, which you can make on the side. The ingredients that give bouillabaisse its robust traditional flavor could withstand hours in the slow cooker, making for an intensely flavorful broth at the end of cooking. But to ensure the deepest flavor in this stew, we had to get our skillet and brown the chicken in batches, sauté the aromatics, and make a simple roux. Every ingredient counts here—from the traditional saffron, white wine, and cayenne to the orange zest and fresh tarragon. A small amount of licorice-flavored liqueur (we prefer pastis) intensified the traditional anise backbone of this stew, while canned tomatoes lent welcome acidity and brightness.
1. FOR THE STEW Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of chicken, about 4 minutes per side; transfer to slow cooker. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining chicken; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add leek and fennel and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, tomato paste, saffron, and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in 2 cups broth, wine, and pastis, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps. Stir in potatoes and bring to simmer. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until potatoes are softened, about 15 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 2 cups broth, tomatoes, and orange zest into slow cooker, cover, and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. FOR THE ROUILLE Microwave water and saffron in medium bowl until steaming, about 10 seconds; let steep for 5 minutes. Stir in bread and lemon juice and let sit until bread is softened and beginning to break down, about 5 minutes. Mash bread with fork until smooth paste forms. Whisk in egg yolk, mustard, garlic, and cayenne. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in oil until mixture resembles smooth mayonnaise. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (Rouille can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
5. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks. Discard orange zest.
6. Stir in chicken and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in tarragon and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with rouille and Garlic Toasts.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 5 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make a slow-cooker fish stew with tender and moist cod and shrimp, a full-flavored broth, spicy chorizo, and hearty potatoes, the key was to allow the stew to simmer and build flavor, then add the fish and shrimp at the end and poach them gently just until they were done. For the broth, we started with white wine, clam juice, and diced tomatoes. We simmered onion, garlic, chorizo, and chunks of red potatoes in the broth until the potatoes were tender and the broth was richly flavored. Then we added the seafood and gently cooked it in the flavorful broth for 30 minutes. All the stew needed was a sprinkle of fresh parsley to finish. Halibut and haddock are good substitutes for the cod. For a richer fish stew, serve with Garlic Aïoli.
1. Microwave onion, chorizo, and garlic in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in potatoes, clam juice, tomatoes, and wine. Cover and cook until flavors meld and potatoes are tender, 5 to 7 hours on low or 3 to 5 hours on high.
2. Season cod and shrimp with salt and pepper and stir into stew. Cover and cook on high until shrimp are opaque throughout and cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife, about 30 minutes. Gently stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
This humble fish stew delivers more satisfying flavor than its simple ingredient list would lead you to believe.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In Sicily, fish is combined with tomatoes and local ingredients to create a simple stew that relies on the intermingling of salty, sweet, and sour flavors. For our slow cooker riff on this stew we created a balanced tomatoey broth base from a basic trio of ingredients: onions, celery, and garlic, which we bloomed in the microwave along with tomato paste and thyme. Some clam juice gave us the brininess of the sea, and a little white wine gave us much needed acidity. Golden raisins and capers imparted nice punches of sweet and salty flavor. This stew is typically made with firm white-fleshed fillets, such as snapper. However, tasters felt that the snapper’s mild flavor was lost amid the bold flavors of the stew and preferred the stronger flavor and meaty texture of swordfish. Cooking the swordfish for only the last half-hour ensured tender, flaky fish that remained moist. And since many fish stews feature a nutty herb topping for a hit of texture and flavor, we decided to include that. We went with a slight twist on gremolata, a classic Italian herb condiment, swapping in mint and orange for the usual lemon and parsley to give us nuanced freshness. Halibut is a good substitute for the swordfish. Serve with crusty bread or Garlic Toasts to dip into the broth.
1. Microwave onions, celery, oil, tomato paste, three-quarters of garlic, thyme, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in clam juice, tomatoes, wine, raisins, and capers, cover, and cook until flavors meld, 4 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 5 hours on high.
2. Season swordfish with salt and pepper and stir into stew. Cover and cook on high until swordfish flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife, about 30 minutes.
3. Combine pine nuts, mint, orange zest, and remaining garlic in bowl. Season stew with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, topping individual portions with pine nut mixture.
CUTTING UP SWORDFISH FOR STEW
1. Using sharp knife, trim skin and dark lines from flesh.
2. Cut trimmed flesh into 1-inch pieces.
Browning the eggplant before adding it to the slow cooker ensures it holds its shape and does not turn soggy.
SERVES 6 VEG ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Creating any vegetable stew in the slow cooker so that the vegetables remain bright and flavorful requires just a few tricks. For this Italian-inspired stew we found that we needed to brown the eggplant first to keep it from becoming soggy and wan-tasting in the final stew. And since we had our skillet out already, we added more oil to it and browned the chopped tomatoes, along with a little tomato paste and the aromatics and oregano, which gave them a deeper flavor. The potatoes cooked perfectly in this stew, but we needed to add the zucchini at the end to ensure that it remained green and crisp-tender.
1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Brown eggplant lightly on all sides, 5 to 7 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add tomatoes, onion, and bell pepper and cook until dry and beginning to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic, tomato paste, and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 2 cups broth, reserved tomato juice, and potatoes into slow cooker, cover, and cook until vegetables are tender, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
4. Stir zucchini into stew, cover, and cook on high until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, drizzling individual portions with extra oil and passing Parmesan separately.
CUTTING UP EGGPLANT
1. To cut eggplant into tidy pieces, first cut eggplant crosswise into 1-inch-thick rounds.
2. Then cut each round into pieces as directed in recipe.
Colorful and fresh-tasting, our quinoa stew benefits from a variety of toppings like avocado and queso fresco.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 5 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In countries along the Andean highlands, such as Peru, quinoa plays a starring role in many dishes, including a hearty stew that also features potatoes and corn. We set about making our own version of this stew using the slow cooker, where the flavors could meld over time for a richer-tasting dish. Red potatoes were a given, and microwaving them with onion and garlic provided a flavorful base for our stew. Diced tomatoes offered brightness and acidity. Along with the corn—we opted for the frozen variety for convenience and consistent flavor year-round—we included peas for more color and sweetness. To keep our quinoa from overcooking, we stirred it in near the end of the cooking time. For thickening, we simply mashed a portion of the cooked potatoes and tomatoes and stirred them back in when we added the quinoa. Be sure to rinse the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer before using; rinsing removes the quinoa’s bitter protective coating (called saponins).
1. Microwave onion, garlic, oil, chili powder, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, potatoes, and tomatoes, cover, and cook until flavors meld and potatoes are tender, 5 to 7 hours on low or 3 to 5 hours on high.
2. Transfer 2 cups potato-tomato mixture to bowl and mash with potato masher until mostly smooth. Stir quinoa and mashed potato-tomato mixture into stew, cover, and cook on high until quinoa is tender, 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Stir in peas and corn and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing queso fresco, avocado, and lime wedges separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Quinoa
Quinoa originated in the Andes Mountains of South America, and while it is generally treated as a grain, it is actually the seed of the goosefoot plant. Sometimes referred to as a “super grain,” quinoa is high in protein, and its protein is complete, which means it possesses all of the amino acids in the balanced amounts that our bodies require.
Beyond its nutritional prowess, we love quinoa for its addictive crunchy texture, nutty taste, and ease of preparation. It’s important to rinse your quinoa in order to remove the bitter-tasting compounds called saponins on the surface of the seed. We tested prewashed and unwashed brands and found that both benefit from rinsing at home.
You can use white and red quinoa interchangeably in most recipes; however, white quinoa is best for dishes like stews because it is starchier and will hold together better.
SERVES 6 LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a warming lentil stew with a deep flavor profile and hearty texture, we turned to French green lentils. Also known as lentilles du Puy, these legumes retain some of their texture during cooking without getting too soft, and since they are high in fiber they make for a healthy and filling stew. Caramelizing the onions required getting out a skillet, but our patience was rewarded with a richly flavored foundation. For a truly satisfying stew, we added brown rice to the mix, which added depth of flavor and broke down slightly as it cooked, helping to thicken the stew. Searching for a hearty green to offer a colorful contrast to the dark lentils, we settled on shredded Brussels sprouts, which we added at the end of the cooking time. A little sherry vinegar stirred in just before serving helped to brighten the stew. We prefer French green lentils for this recipe, but it will work with any type of lentil except red or yellow. Short-grain brown rice can be substituted for the long-grain rice, if desired.
1. Cook bacon in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Add onions, sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt, cover, and cook until onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Uncover, reduce heat to medium-low, and continue to cook, stirring often, until onions are caramelized, about 20 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, mustard seeds, coriander, and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir remaining 7 cups broth, carrots, lentils, and rice into slow cooker. Cover and cook until lentils are tender, 7 to 9 hours on low or 4 to 6 hours on high.
3. Stir Brussels sprouts into stew and let sit until softened, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SLICING BRUSSELS SPROUTS
1. Trim stem end of each sprout and then cut each sprout in half through cut end.
2. With flat surface on cutting board, thinly slice each half.
SERVES 6 VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 10 TO 12 HOURS ON LOW OR 7 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Perfect for a cold winter’s night, this farro stew is substantial and flavorful. We began with sweet, nutty farro and added mushrooms for meaty depth and butternut squash for substance. To start, we microwaved the mushrooms and aromatics with just a tablespoon of oil until the mushrooms softened, released some of their moisture, and were flavored by the aromatics. Vegetable broth worked well for the cooking liquid and provided a subtly sweet backbone. To give it a boost, we stirred in some white wine, which contributed complexity and brightness to our hearty stew. We cooked the squash in a foil packet on top of the stew to make sure it would retain its sweet flavor and bright color. Fresh, peppery arugula provided color and freshness. We prefer the flavor and texture of whole farro; pearled farro can be used, but the texture may be softer. Do not use quick-cooking or presteamed farro (the ingredient list on the package will specify the type) in this recipe. The arugula may seem like a lot at first, but it wilts down substantially.
1. Microwave mushrooms, onion, tomato paste, garlic, oil, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir broth, farro, wine, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Season squash with salt and pepper, wrap in aluminum foil packet, and place on top of stew. Cover and cook until farro is tender, 10 to 12 hours on low or 7 to 9 hours on high.
3. Carefully open foil packet and stir squash, along with any accumulated juices, into stew. Discard bay leaves. Stir in arugula, 1 handful at a time, and let sit until wilted, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing Parmesan and extra oil separately.
MAKING A FOIL PACKET
1. Place vegetables on 1 side of large sheet of aluminum foil. Fold foil over vegetables and crimp 3 open edges to seal.
2. Place packet on top of ingredients in slow cooker, pressing it gently to fit.
Wheat Berry and Wild Mushroom Stew
The combination of hearty wheat berries and two kinds of mushrooms makes for a filling vegetarian stew.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this hearty vegetarian stew, we started with sweet, nutty wheat berries and added mushrooms for earthy, meaty depth. The wheat berries were hearty enough to withstand the long cooking time of the slow cooker and still maintain their chewy texture. Including two types of mushrooms—sliced cremini and dried porcini—ensured that our stew had tender bites of mushroom and intense, earthy flavor. To reinforce the woodsy notes of the mushrooms, we included dried thyme. To give the stew a boost, we stirred in some Madeira, adding an extra splash of the fortified wine at the end of cooking for brightness. Baby spinach provided color and freshness. Finally, for a hint of richness, we stirred in a couple of pats of butter. If using quick-cooking or presteamed wheat berries (the ingredient list on the package specifies the type), you will need to decrease the cooking time in step 1. The wheat berries will retain a chewy texture once fully cooked. You can substitute dry sherry for the Madeira if desired. The spinach may seem like a lot at first, but it wilts down substantially.
1. Microwave cremini mushrooms, porcini mushrooms, garlic, 1 tablespoon oil, thyme, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, wheat berries, and 6 tablespoons Madeira. Cover and cook until wheat berries are tender, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Stir in spinach, 1 handful at a time, and let sit until wilted, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons oil and remaining 2 tablespoons Madeira and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, drizzling individual portions with extra oil and sprinkling with Parmesan.
This New Orleans favorite can withstand a day in the slow cooker and still deliver creamy beans and perfect rice.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When we think of New Orleans we long for a bowl of smoky, spicy red beans and rice, perhaps the region’s most notable specialty. When done right, this dish elevates ordinary ingredients—onions, celery, green bell peppers, kidney beans, and rice—to extraordinary heights. With its tender rice, creamy beans, and robustly flavored slow-simmered sauce, this dish is well suited to the slow cooker. We found the classic Cajun trinity of onions, celery, and green peppers a must, and stirring in the peppers (along with the rice) for the last 15 minutes of cooking preserved their texture and color. In addition to paprika and cayenne, spicy andouille sausage provided just the intensity we were seeking, though a milder andouille or kielbasa can be substituted. A splash of red wine vinegar and a sprinkling of scallions before serving provide welcome brightness and are a must. Be sure to use instant rice (sometimes labeled minute rice); traditional rice takes much longer to cook and won’t work here.
1. Microwave onions, celery, garlic, oil, thyme, paprika, and cayenne in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, water, beans, sausage, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 10 hours on high.
2. Discard bay leaves. Stir bell peppers and rice into stew, cover, and cook on high until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Sir in scallions and season with salt, pepper, and vinegar to taste. Serve.
Pureeing a can of hominy with broth gives this white chicken chili just the right appealing texture and base of corn flavor.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS White chicken chili is a fresher, lighter cousin of the thick red chili most Americans know and love. Its appeal is not surprising. First, it is a healthier alternative, and second, because there are no tomatoes to mask the other flavors, the chiles, herbs, and spices take center stage. Unlike red chili, which uses any combo of dried chiles, chili powders, and cayenne pepper, white chicken chili gets its backbone from fresh green chiles, which contribute vibrant flavor and spiciness. To achieve a great white chicken chili in the slow cooker, we needed to build flavor every step of the way. We started by browning boneless chicken thighs to ensure our chili had big chicken flavor. Sautéing the aromatics—including four jalapeño chiles—and spices together in the skillet also added a richer, deeper flavor, plus deglazing the pan ensured all the rich browned bits we developed ended up in the slow cooker. For convenience, instead of multiple types of chiles, we relied on jalapeño chiles only. Serve with your favorite chili garnishes.
1. Process 2 cups broth and hominy in blender until smooth, about 1 minute; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of chicken, about 4 minutes per side; transfer to slow cooker. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining chicken; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in fresh jalapeños, garlic, cumin, and coriander and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in remaining 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
4. Stir beans into slow cooker, cover, and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
5. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks. Stir chicken into chili and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in cilantro and jarred jalapeños and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with avocados.
SERVES 8 TO 10
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Turkey chili is a great alternative to classic beef chili, providing a leaner but no less flavorful meal for the dinner table. To help protect our ground turkey from drying out, we enlisted the help of a panade—a paste of bread and milk—to provide added moisture. We also found the addition of broth and a little soy sauce helped reinforce the meatiness of the leaner meat. Be sure to use ground turkey, not ground turkey breast (also labeled 99 percent fat-free), in this recipe. Serve with your favorite chili garnishes.
1. Mash bread and soy sauce into paste in large bowl using fork. Add ground turkey and knead with hands until well combined.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and bell pepper and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in chili powder, tomato paste, garlic, cumin, and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
3. Add half of turkey mixture and cook, breaking up turkey with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Repeat with remaining turkey mixture. Stir in broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
4. Stir beans, tomatoes, tomato sauce, sugar, and chipotle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until turkey is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low. Break up any remaining large pieces of turkey with spoon. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
A hefty amount of chili powder, canned chipotles, and some soy sauce add big flavor to our ground beef chili.
SERVES 8 TO 10
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Gently simmered ground beef chili is certainly well suited for the slow cooker, but achieving the characteristic rich flavors and tender meat can be a challenge. To develop the all-American chili we were looking for, we started with the base, choosing a combination of diced and pureed tomatoes to create the proper consistency. Next, we incorporated a generous combination of chili powder, cumin, oregano, and red pepper flakes, bumping up the flavors even further with smoky chipotles. Browning the beef to develop flavor is standard in most traditional chilis, but this produced overcooked, gritty meat in the slow cooker. To fix this, we found mixing the raw beef with a panade—a mixture of bread and milk often used in meatballs—before browning it worked wonders. We also stirred in a little soy sauce to help boost the meaty flavor—maybe a tad unconventional for chili, but it worked. Serve with your favorite chili garnishes.
1. Mash bread, milk, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper into paste in large bowl using fork. Add ground beef and knead with hands until well combined.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in chili powder, tomato paste, garlic, cumin, oregano, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
3. Add half of beef mixture and cook, breaking up beef with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Repeat with remaining beef mixture. Stir in 1 cup tomato puree, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
4. Stir remaining tomato puree, diced tomatoes and their juice, beans, soy sauce, sugar, and chipotle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
5. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of chili. Break up any remaining large pieces of beef with spoon. Adjust consistency with hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
MAKING A PANADE
Using fork, mash bread and milk (or other liquid) into paste.
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
GOLDEN NORTHERN CORNBREAD
SERVES 8 TO 10
If stone-ground cornmeal is unavailable, any fine- or medium-ground cornmeal will work; do not use coarse-ground cornmeal.
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Grease 9-inch square baking pan. Whisk cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together in large bowl, then make well in center of bowl.
2. Crack eggs into well and stir gently with wooden spoon. Add buttermilk and milk and quickly stir until batter is almost combined. Stir in melted butter until batter is just combined.
3. Pour batter into prepared pan and smooth top. Bake until top is golden brown and lightly cracked and edges have pulled away from sides of pan, about 25 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking. Let cornbread cool in pan for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
SERVES 8 TO 10 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Texans are famous for their style of chili featuring big chunks of beef slowly simmered in a chile-infused sauce. For our slow-cooker version we chose generous chunks of beef chuck-eye roast, which remained moist while still turning impressively tender. We found that we needed to brown only half of the beef to give us the deep, rich beefy flavor from the fond, saving us a little prep time. To achieve the characteristic rich and smooth sauce, we used pureed diced tomatoes and seasoned them with a hefty amount of onions, garlic, and jalapeños mixed with an equally generous amount of spices. Canned chipotle chile added even more flavor complexity. To thicken our chili, we hydrated some corn tortillas, which we then pureed with our tomatoes, giving us a nice richness and an added depth of flavor. While beans are traditionally served alongside this chili, we liked the creaminess that they provided when cooked with the meat, so we included them in the mix. Serve with your favorite chili garnishes.
1. Microwave tortillas and ½ cup broth in bowl, stirring occasionally, until tortillas are fully hydrated, about 3 minutes. Process tortilla mixture, tomatoes and their juice, chipotle, and sugar in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of beef on all sides, about 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker with remaining uncooked beef.
3. Add onions and ¼ teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until onions are softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in jalapeños, chili powder, garlic, cumin, and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in remaining 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
4. Stir beans into slow cooker, cover, and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
A little brewed coffee is traditional in this pork chili and kicks up the bittersweet nuances perfectly.
SERVES 8 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Inspired by the traditional New Mexican stew carne adovada, this chili features meltingly tender chunks of pork in an intense, richly flavored red chile sauce. For this long-simmered chili, we found that the considerable marbling of fat in pork butt produced supremely tender chunks of meat that didn’t dry out. As for the sauce, chili powder, oregano, and chipotle chiles provided a solid baseline of warmth and depth, while fresh coffee brought a balance of robust, bittersweet flavors. And, since the flavor of dried chiles is sometimes described as raisiny, we went to the source, adding raisins before serving to achieve the desired fruity nuance. Stirring in fresh cilantro, lime zest, and lime juice at the end helped to brighten this earthy dish. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. Serve with your favorite chili garnishes.
1. Microwave onions, chili powder, garlic, oil, tomato paste, and oregano in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir in broth, coffee, tapioca, chipotle, sugar, and bay leaves. Season pork with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
3. Discard bay leaves. Stir raisins into chili and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in cilantro and lime zest and juice. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt, pepper, extra sugar, and extra lime juice to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Chili Powder
To see what the difference was among the various brands of chili powder, we pitted seven widely available brands against one another in a taste-off. We tasted them sprinkled over potatoes and cooked in beef-and-bean chili. Many brands included unusual ingredients, but our top picks stuck with classic flavorings: cumin, oregano, and garlic. We also liked the addition of paprika, which gave our top two picks a nice complexity. In the end, Morton & Bassett Chili Powder was the winner for its deep, roasty flavor; subtle sweetness; and just the right amount of heat.
Tomatillo Chili with Pork and Hominy
Broiling the tomatillos and onion adds a lot of smoky flavor to this classic Mexican-style green chili.
SERVES 8 TO 10 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In this classic green chili, chunks of pork slowly simmer in a bright sauce made from chiles and tomatillos. The key to achieving the bold flavors of this chili in a slow cooker was broiling the tomatillos along with the other aromatics and spices. Once charred, the vegetables and spices took on a rustic, smoky flavor, and we pureed them to create a flavorful base. Hominy also contributed to the heartiness of the dish and helped thicken the sauce. If you can’t find fresh tomatillos, you can substitute three 11-ounce cans of tomatillos, drained, rinsed, and patted dry; broil as directed in step 1. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. Serve with your favorite chili garnishes.
1. Position oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Toss tomatillos and onion with oil, garlic, oregano, cumin, cloves, and cinnamon, then spread onto aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil vegetables until blackened and beginning to soften, 5 to 10 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through broiling; let cool slightly.
2. Pulse vegetables, along with any accumulated juices, in food processor until almost smooth, about 10 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir hominy, broth, poblanos, tapioca, sugar, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Season pork with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Discard bay leaves. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
HUSKING AND RINSING TOMATILLOS
1. Pull papery husks and stems off of tomatillos; discard.
2. Rinse tomatillos in colander to rid them of sticky residue from husks. Dry tomatillos thoroughly.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Vegetarian chilis often rely on a mix of beans and vegetables for heartiness, but neither one really adds meaty depth. We wanted a hearty chili that was as rich, savory, and deeply satisfying as any meat chili out there. We started with dried navy beans, which turned tender and creamy with the long simmer. To up the heartiness of our dish, we tried adding a variety of ingredients, but only bulgur provided the textural dimension our chili had been missing. After a quick rinse and a few minutes in the microwave, it needed just 5 to 10 minutes in the slow cooker to fully soften and absorb the rich flavors. Finally, we ramped up the intensity and depth of our chili with soy sauce, dried shiitakes, and tomato paste. When shopping, don’t confuse bulgur with cracked wheat, which has a much longer cooking time and will not work in this recipe. Serve with your favorite chili garnishes.
1. Microwave onions, chili powder, tomato paste, oil, oregano, cumin, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in beans, 9 cups water, soy sauce, and mushrooms. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 10 hours on high.
2. Microwave bulgur, 2 cups water, and ¼ teaspoon salt in covered bowl until bulgur is softened, about 5 minutes; drain bulgur and stir into chili. Cover and cook on high until bulgur is tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
This rich, hearty bean chili is so satisfying and flavorful, no one will miss the meat.
SERVES 6 TO 8 VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Vegetarian versions of black bean chili can be tricky since there are no ham products, like meaty, smoky ham hocks, to build flavor over the long cooking time. To achieve the full flavors we expected from black bean chili, we started by browning a generous amount of aromatics and spices. This additional step was promising, but the chili still seemed pretty lean. Though a bit odd for a chili, a surprise ingredient, mustard seeds, added an appealing pungency and the level of complexity we were looking for. To bulk up the chili, we added bell peppers, white mushrooms, and canned tomatoes. We added the tomatoes at the end because otherwise their acidity prevented the beans from cooking through fully. Minced cilantro and a spritz of fresh lime provide welcome brightness and are a must. Serve with your favorite chili garnishes.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and bell peppers and cook until vegetables are softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in jalapeños, garlic, chili powder, mustard seeds, chipotle, cumin, and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir remaining 1½ cups broth, water, beans, mushrooms, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 10 hours on high.
3. Discard bay leaves. Transfer 1 cup cooked beans to bowl and mash with potato masher until mostly smooth. Stir mashed beans and tomatoes into chili and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with lime wedges.
SEEDING JALAPEÑOS
Most of a chile pepper’s heat is in the ribs and seeds. To remove both easily, cut the pepper in half lengthwise, then use a melon baller to scoop along the inside of each half. (The sharp edge of the melon baller can also be used to cut off the stem.)
SERVES 6 VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This satisfying vegetarian chili brings the flavors of Cuba home to your slow cooker. To replicate the intricate spice profiles of Latin cuisine, we used a combination of citrusy coriander, earthy cumin, warm oregano, and a fresh jalapeño for complexity. Added to the chili, plantains became tender during the cooking process, and when we mashed a portion with some of the beans, they became a natural thickener. Seasoning with cider vinegar at the end of cooking brought fresh acidity to the finished chili. We prefer the softer texture and added sweetness of ripe plantains in this dish. Green plantains can be substituted; however, they will have a much firmer texture and a starchier flavor.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, jalapeño, oil, cumin, coriander, oregano, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, water, plantains, beans, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 10 hours on high.
2. Discard bay leaves. Transfer 1 cup cooked beans and plantains to bowl and mash with potato masher until mostly smooth. Stir mashed bean mixture and corn into chili and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in cilantro and vinegar, and season with salt, pepper, and extra vinegar to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Fresh Chile Peppers
Chiles get their heat from a group of chemical compounds called capsaicinoids, the best known being capsaicin. If you like a lot of heat, you can use the entire chile when cooking. If you prefer a milder dish, remove the ribs and seeds. Here are the chiles we reach for most in the test kitchen.
JALAPEÑO Perhaps the best-known chile, jalapeños are moderately hot and have a bright, grassy flavor similar to a green bell pepper. They can be dark green or scarlet red.
POBLANO These chiles are very dark green in color. When ripe, they turn a reddish-brown. They have a fruity, subtly spicy flavor. Thanks to their large size, they are also ideal for stuffing. Poblanos can be found in Latin markets and many supermarkets.
ANAHEIM With their acidic, lemony flavor, mild spiciness, and crisp texture, these popular chiles can be eaten raw, roasted, or fried; they are also frequently stuffed or used in salsa. Anaheim chiles are medium green in color and have a long, tapered shape.
SERRANO Similar in appearance to jalapeños but with a slightly thinner shape and brazen heat, these chiles have a fresh, clean, fruity flavor. They are good both raw in salsa and cooked in chilis and curries.
HABANERO These small, lantern-shaped chiles pack intense heat. They have a floral, fruity flavor that makes them a great addition to marinades, salsas, and cooked dishes. They range from light green to orange or red in color.
THAI These tiny multicolored chiles look ornamental, but they mean business. They have a flavor similar to that of black peppercorns and a bold, lingering heat. They are best when used sparingly in cooked dishes.
CHAPTER 3
Unstuffed Chicken Cordon Bleu ■
Chicken with “Roasted” Garlic Sauce ■
Chicken with Mushrooms and Tarragon Cream Sauce
Lemony Chicken with Artichokes and Capers
Latin Chicken with Tomatoes and Olives ■ ■
Thai Chicken with Asparagus and Mushrooms ■
Chicken with Fennel and Tomato Couscous ■
Spiced Chicken with Carrot Couscous ■
Greek Chicken with Warm Tabbouleh ■
MAKE IT 5 WAYS: CHICKEN AND POTATOES
Lemon-Rosemary Chicken and Potatoes
Mediterranean Chicken and Potatoes
French Chicken and Warm Potato Salad
Sesame-Ginger Chicken and Sweet Potatoes
Spicy Peruvian Chicken and Sweet Potatoes
Chicken Adobo ■ ■
Chicken Mole ■ ■
Chinese Barbecued Chicken Thighs ■
Barbecued Chicken Drumsticks ■
Fig-Balsamic Glazed Chicken Drumsticks ■
Kimchi-Braised Chicken Thighs ■ ■
Chicken Thighs with Swiss Chard and Mustard ■ ■
Curried Chicken Thighs with Acorn Squash ■ ■
Lemony Chicken and Rice with Spinach and Feta ■
Chicken Thighs with Black-Eyed Pea Ragout ■
Sweet and Tangy Pulled Chicken ■ ■
Tomatillo Chicken Soft Tacos ■ ■
Braised Chicken Sausages with White Bean Ragout ■
Italian Braised Turkey Sausages ■
SIMPLE SIDES
For more chicken and turkey recipes, click here for the A Roast in Every Pot chapter
■ EASY PREP
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Boneless, skinless chicken breasts can be easily overcooked but not in the slow cooker, where gentle heat ensures moist, tender results. To make simple chicken breasts more interesting, we decided to use canned whole-berry cranberry sauce, which we livened up with orange juice and zest and fresh thyme. As the chicken cooked in this mixture, it took on the sweet flavors of the sauce base. We added red wine vinegar to cut the sweetness, and a tablespoon of soy sauce for depth of flavor. When the chicken was perfectly cooked, we simmered the vibrant sauce briefly to thicken it. Toasted almonds added an appealing crunchy finish to the sauced chicken. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Combine cranberry sauce, soy sauce, vinegar, thyme, orange zest and juice, and cayenne in slow cooker. Season chicken with salt and pepper and arrange in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to serving dish and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Transfer cooking liquid to medium saucepan, bring to simmer over medium heat, and cook until sauce is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over chicken and sprinkle with almonds. Serve.
Putting the ham and cheese on the outside makes this classic French chicken dish a snap to prepare.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Traditional recipes for chicken cordon bleu require carefully stuffing bone-in breasts, but we wanted an easier approach. To streamline the method and adapt it to the slow cooker, we wrapped boneless chicken breasts in thin slices of deli ham, nestled them in the slow cooker, then topped them with Swiss cheese for a no-fuss approach that kept prep work to a minimum. Poaching the breasts in a flavorful mixture of broth, mustard, and aromatics seasoned the chicken and allowed it to cook more gently. Once the chicken was cooked through, we whisked some cream into the cooking liquid to make an easy mustard cream sauce. Our slow-cooker version had all the classic flavors of chicken cordon bleu— the only thing we lost was the fussy technique. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Combine broth, mustard, tapioca, garlic, thyme, and ½ teaspoon pepper in slow cooker. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Working with 1 breast at a time, shingle 2 slices of ham on counter, overlapping edges slightly, and lay chicken in center of slices. Fold ham around chicken and arrange in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Top each breast with 1 slice Swiss cheese. Cover and cook on high until cheese is melted, about 5 minutes.
3. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Whisk cream into cooking liquid until smooth, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over chicken and serve.
MAKING CHICKEN CORDON BLEU
1. Shingle 2 slices of ham on counter, overlapping edges slightly; lay chicken breast in center of slices.
2. Fold ham ends neatly over chicken breast and press on overlapping ends to adhere.
Quick, cheesy homemade bread crumbs add a crunchy finishing touch on our chicken Parm.
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Traditional chicken Parmesan, with its crispy fried-crumb coating and blanket of melted cheese, was not well suited to the slow cooker, we soon discovered, but we were determined to make a version that was. We started with boneless, skinless chicken breasts, and to account for the moisture they gave off in the cooker, we made a superconcentrated tomato sauce. Once the chicken was cooked, we found that a reverse method was best for the coating: First, we sprinkled basil and mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses over the breasts in the cooker. Once the cheeses melted, we added a flavorful topping of pretoasted panko, along with more Parmesan, basil, and oregano. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 3 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook until onion is softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, garlic, 1½ teaspoons oregano, and pepper flakes and cook until tomato paste is rust-colored, about 4 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir tomatoes into slow cooker. Dissolve cornstarch in water in bowl and stir into tomato mixture. Season chicken with salt and pepper and shingle in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 3 to 4 hours on low.
3. Combine mozzarella and 2 tablespoons Parmesan in bowl. Sprinkle chicken with 2 tablespoons basil, followed by mozzarella mixture. Cover and cook on high until cheese is melted, about 5 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, toss panko with remaining 1 tablespoon oil in shallow dish. Microwave crumbs, stirring often, until deep golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Let cool slightly, then combine with parsley, remaining 2 tablespoons Parmesan, remaining 1 tablespoon basil, remaining 1½ teaspoons oregano, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper. Serve, sprinkling individual portions of chicken and sauce with bread-crumb mixture.
SHREDDING BASIL
To shred basil or other leafy herbs, simply stack several leaves on top of one another, roll them up, and slice. For basil, we find rolling leaves from tip to tail minimizes bruising and browning.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Fresh Versus Supermarket Mozzarella
Mozzarella is the leading cheese in the United States in per-capita consumption, with most supermarkets stocking two main varieties: fresh (usually packed in brine) and supermarket, or low-moisture (available either as a block or preshredded).
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE? Both varieties are made by stretching and pulling the curds by hand or machine, which aligns the proteins into long chains and gives the cheese its trademark elasticity. However, the final products differ considerably when it comes to water weight. According to federal standards, fresh mozzarella must have a moisture content between 52 percent and 60 percent by weight, making it highly perishable. Drier, firmer low-moisture mozzarella hovers between 45 percent and 52 percent and can last in the fridge for weeks.
WHEN TO USE FRESH We prefer the sweet richness and tender bite of the fresh stuff for snacking, sandwiches, and Caprese salad but tend not to use it in cooked applications, since heat can destroy its delicate flavor and texture.
WHEN TO USE SUPERMARKET For most baked dishes we turn to the low-moisture kind. Its mellow flavor blends seamlessly with bolder ingredients and melts nicely in everything from lasagna to pizza. We prefer supermarket mozzarella that, when baked, is creamy and clean-tasting and has a bit of soft (not rubbery) chew, plenty of gooey stretch, and flavorful browning.
HOW TO STORE MOZZARELLA As it sits, mozzarella releases moisture. If this moisture evaporates too quickly, the cheese dries out. But if the moisture stays on the cheese’s surface, it encourages mold. To find the best storage method, we wrapped mozzarella in various materials, refrigerated the samples for six weeks, and monitored them for mold and dryness. Those wrapped in plastic wrap or zipper-lock bags were the first to show mold. Those in waxed or parchment paper alone lost too much moisture and dried out. The best method: First wrap the cheese in waxed or parchment paper, then loosely wrap in aluminum foil. The paper wicks moisture away, while the foil cover traps enough water to keep the cheese from drying out. Fresh mozzarella does not store well and is best eaten within a day or two.
Savory tomato paste and garam masala punch up the sauce for this Indian chicken, and yogurt makes it smooth and rich.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to create a flavorful take on chicken tikka masala that had tender, moist pieces of chicken napped in a robustly spiced creamy tomato sauce. While traditionally this dish calls for marinating the chicken overnight to infuse flavor and cooking the sauce separately, we turned to our slow cooker for an easy hands-off version that would infuse big flavor into the chicken while cooking the entire dish to perfection. For a tikka masala recipe with assertive flavor, we needed the perfect sauce. Fresh tomatoes and canned sauce both released too much liquid during cooking, which created a thin sauce made worse by the juices released by the chicken. Switching to drained canned diced tomatoes along with flavor-packed tomato paste proved to be the answer; and when we added the perfect mix of aromatics plus garam masala, our sauce had the bold, zesty tomato flavor that is the hallmark of this dish. To finish the dish, we tempered in yogurt after cooking to ensure a velvety rich sauce. For a spicier dish, do not remove the ribs and seeds from the chile.
1. Microwave onion, oil, serrano, tomato paste, garam masala, garlic, ginger, sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes. Season chicken with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Whisk ½ cup sauce and yogurt together in bowl (to temper), then stir mixture back into slow cooker and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Shopping for Garam Masala
Garam masala is a northern Indian combination of up to 12 dry-roasted, ground spices and is used in a wide range of dishes. The most common ingredients include black peppercorns, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, coriander, cumin, dried chiles, fennel, mace, nutmeg, and bay leaves. Ginger and caraway seeds also make frequent appearances. While we’ve found that commercial mixtures tend to be less aromatic and more muted than batches we toast and grind fresh ourselves, grinding whole spices to concoct this blend is time-consuming and expensive. In search of a good-tasting, commercially available garam masala, we tested a handful of top products. The tasters’ favorite was McCormick Gourmet Collection Garam Masala, chosen for its ability to both blend into dishes and round out their acidic and sweet notes. It also won praise for adding a mellow, well-balanced aroma to most dishes.
SERVES 4 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS It’s often the simplest meals that are the hardest to re-create in the slow cooker; tender, perfectly cooked bone-in chicken with a garlicky gravy is no exception. For a richly flavored and satisfying gravy, we turned to 15 whole cloves of garlic plus a shallot to lend a roasted flavor and body to our sauce. To end up with aromatics soft enough to puree into a smooth gravy, we found it necessary to jump-start their cooking by sautéing them on the stovetop until lightly browned. Giving the shallots and garlic time to brown also added to the subtle roasted taste and deepened their overall flavor, which became sweeter and mellower after hours in the slow cooker. With the aromatics already in the skillet, adding a small amount of flour was a quick and easy way to thicken the sauce, and deglazing with wine and broth ensured that the flavorful browned bits in the bottom of the pan ended up in the slow cooker. The addition of soy sauce helped to round out the overall flavor of the sauce. Rosemary and chives enlivened the gravy with fresh flavors. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken, 3 to 4 minutes per side; transfer to plate and discard skin.
2. Add garlic and shallot to fat left in skillet and cook over medium-low heat until lightly browned and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour and rosemary and cook for 1 minute. Slowly whisk in wine, broth, and soy sauce, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Arrange chicken, skinned side up, in even layer in slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Process cooking liquid in blender until smooth, about 30 seconds. Stir in chives and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chicken with sauce.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Garlic
Here’s everything you need to know about buying, storing, and cooking with garlic.
BUYING GARLIC Pick heads without spots, mold, or sprouting. Squeeze them to make sure they are not rubbery or missing cloves. The garlic shouldn’t have much of a scent. Of the various garlic varieties, your best bet is soft-neck garlic, since it stores well and is heat-tolerant. This variety features a circle of large cloves surrounding a small cluster at the center. Hard-neck garlic has a stiff center staff surrounded by large, uniform cloves and boasts a more intense flavor. But since it’s easily damaged and doesn’t store as well as soft-neck garlic, wait to buy it at the farmers’ market.
STORING GARLIC Whole heads of garlic should last at least a few weeks if stored in a cool, dark place with plenty of air circulation to prevent spoiling and sprouting.
PREPARING GARLIC Keep in mind that garlic’s pungency emerges only after its cell walls are ruptured, triggering the creation of a compound called allicin. The more a clove is broken down, the more allicin that is produced. Thus you can control the amount of bite garlic contributes to a recipe by how fine or coarse you cut it. It’s also best not to cut garlic in advance; the longer cut garlic sits, the harsher its flavor.
COOKING GARLIC Garlic’s flavor is sharpest when raw. Once it is heated above 150 degrees, its enzymes are destroyed and no new flavor is produced. This is why roasted garlic, which is cooked slowly and takes longer to reach 150 degrees, has a mellow, slightly sweet flavor. Garlic browned at very high temperatures (300 to 350 degrees) results in a more bitter flavor. To avoid the creation of bitter compounds, wait to add garlic to the pan until other ingredients have softened. And don’t cook garlic over high heat for much longer than 30 seconds.
Chicken with Mushrooms and Tarragon Cream Sauce
An easy-to-make cream sauce takes this slow-cooker chicken from everyday to special in a flash.
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To get the richest and deepest chicken flavor for this creamy, company-worthy braised chicken, we opted to get out a skillet and brown bone-in chicken breasts. Since we had our skillet out, we also browned the mushrooms and aromatics and deglazed the pan with white wine, seriously elevating the overall flavor. We further boosted the flavor with an unusual ingredient, soy sauce, which brought an extra level of meatiness without taking over. We added cream at the end of the cooking time, along with a hefty dose of fresh tarragon for bright flavor. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken, 3 to 4 minutes per side; transfer to plate and discard skin.
2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms, onions, and ¼ teaspoon salt, cover, and cook until vegetables are softened and mushrooms have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until vegetables are dry and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir soy sauce and bay leaves into slow cooker. Arrange chicken, skinned side up, in even layer in slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Discard bay leaves. Stir cream and tarragon into cooking liquid. Adjust consistency with hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon vegetables and sauce over chicken and serve.
Lemony Chicken with Artichokes and Capers
Browning the chicken and building the foundation of the sauce in a skillet first ensures a boldly flavored sauce.
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For an easy braise with bright citrus flavor, we used the slow cooker to gently simmer chicken and artichokes with strips of lemon zest. As the chicken cooked, the lemon zest infused the meat and the sauce with bright flavor. Bone-in chicken breasts stayed moist and juicy even after hours of simmering. Some onion and garlic gave the dish additional depth and savory flavor. For the sauce, we loved the combination of bold, briny capers with the bright lemon and hearty artichokes. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice added at the end reinforced the citrus flavor, and a little heavy cream thickened and enriched the sauce. While we prefer the flavor and texture of jarred whole baby artichokes, you can substitute 18 ounces frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry, for the jarred. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken, 3 to 4 minutes per side; transfer to plate and discard skin.
2. Add onion, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until onion is softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir artichokes and lemon zest into slow cooker. Arrange chicken, skinned side up, in even layer in slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Transfer chicken to serving dish and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Discard lemon zest. Stir cream, capers, parsley, and lemon juice into cooking liquid and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over chicken and serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Processed Artichokes
Because fresh artichokes are limited by seasonality, we often turn to prepared artichokes. When buying them, avoid premarinated versions; we prefer to control the seasonings ourselves. We also don’t recommend canned hearts, which tend to taste waterlogged and have tough leaves. We think that smaller whole jarred artichoke hearts, labeled “baby” or “cocktail,” are best. Our favorite brand is Pastene Baby Artichokes, which have a sweet, earthy flavor.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This classic Latin-style chicken features tender chicken braised in a chunky tomato sauce; gently simmering the chicken in the sauce helps it to remain moist while enriching the flavors of both. Most slow-cooker recipes result in a dull, waterlogged tomato sauce, so we looked to give our dish a richer texture with a bright and assertive tomato flavor. Our testing revealed that canned diced tomatoes with their juice had the fresh tomato taste we wanted but created too much liquid during cooking. Compounded with the juices from the chicken, they created a thin, dull sauce. Draining the diced tomatoes, plus adding tomato paste and a small amount of tapioca, created the thickened sauce we were after. Finishing the sauce with green olives gave our dish a briny contrast, and a sprinkling of fresh cilantro and lime juice tied it all together. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, oil, tomato paste, oregano, and cumin in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes and tapioca. Season chicken with salt and pepper and arrange, skinned side up, in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Stir olives, cilantro, and lime juice into sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over chicken and serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Olives
BRINE-CURED VERSUS SALT-CURED Jarred olives come in three basic types at the supermarket: brine-cured green, brine-cured black, and salt-cured black (often labeled “oil-cured”). Brine-cured olives are soaked in a salt solution for periods of up to a year to remove bitterness and develop flavor. Salt-cured olives are packed in salt until nearly all their liquid has been extracted, then covered in oil to be replumped. Both processes traditionally take weeks or even months. Generally we find that brine-cured black and green olives can be used interchangeably in any recipe based on personal preference. Among our test cooks, only a few olive aficionados favored the concentrated, bitter taste of salt-cured olives—we don’t recommend cooking with them unless a recipe specifically calls for them. And as for canned olives? We avoid them entirely, finding them almost tasteless, and with a firm yet oddly slippery texture.
GREEN OLIVES Often labeled “Spanish” olives, green olives are picked before they fully ripen, and their mild flavor adds a bright, acidic dimension to food. Manzanillas, produced in Spain and California, are the pimento-stuffed olives best known for garnishing martinis. Add these olives at the end of cooking to avoid bitterness.
BLACK OLIVES Picked when mature, black olives lend a more robust, fruity taste. The most common types are kalamata olives, which have an earthy flavor and creamy flesh, and niçoise olives, which boast an assertive, somewhat bitter flavor. We prefer the fresher kalamatas from the refrigerator section of the supermarket; the jarred shelf-stable ones are bland and mushy in comparison. If you can’t find kalamatas in the refrigerator section of your market, look for them at the salad bar.
PITTED VERSUS UNPITTED Pitted olives are certainly convenient, but they lack the complex, fruity flavors of unpitted olives and often have a mushier texture. After being brined for up to a year, the pitted olives are returned to the brine for packing, which can penetrate the inside of the olive and turn it mushy and pasty, as well as increase the absorption of salt. That saltier taste can mask subtler flavors. If you have the time, we recommend that you buy unpitted olives and pit them yourself.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Thai dishes are known for their complex, long-simmered flavor. A few shortcut ingredients and the slow cooker were all we needed to create a boldly flavored, but easy-to-prepare, Thai chicken dinner. Thai red curry paste was an easy swap for an overwhelming list of traditional seasonings. We enriched it with coconut milk to deepen the flavor of our sauce. Stirring in a portion of the coconut milk just before serving helped to deepen the coconut flavor, which otherwise can taste washed out after several hours in the slow cooker. A little instant tapioca helped to thicken the sauce to a curry-like consistency that went perfectly with rice. Bone-in chicken breasts stayed moist and tender as the sauce simmered and the rich flavors melded. We liked light, fresh asparagus and delicate shiitakes in this dish, but they turned to mush in the slow cooker. Luckily, just 5 minutes in the microwave was enough to turn them tender, then we added them to the dish at the end. We finished the sauce with lime juice, fish sauce, and fresh cilantro to brighten its rich flavors. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Whisk ½ cup coconut milk, curry paste, tapioca, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in slow cooker. Season chicken with salt and pepper and arrange, skinned side up, in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Microwave asparagus, mushrooms, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes.
3. Transfer chicken to serving dish and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Stir vegetables, remaining ½ cup coconut milk, lime juice, and fish sauce into cooking liquid and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in cilantro and season with extra lime juice and fish sauce to taste. Spoon sauce over chicken and serve.
TRIMMING ASPARAGUS
1. Remove 1 spear of asparagus from bunch and bend it at thicker end until it snaps.
2. With broken asparagus spear as guide, trim tough ends from remaining asparagus bunch using chef’s knife.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Curry Paste
Curry pastes, which can be either green or red, are a key ingredient for adding deep, well-rounded flavor to Thai curries. They are made from a mix of lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, shrimp paste, ginger, garlic, chiles (fresh green Thai chiles for green curry paste, and dried red Thai chiles for red curry paste), and other spices. So it’s not surprising that making curry paste at home can be quite a chore. We have found that the store-bought variety does a fine job and saves significant time in terms of both shopping and prep. It is usually sold in small jars next to other Thai ingredients at the supermarket. Be aware that these pastes can vary in spiciness depending on the brand, so use more or less as desired.
Chicken with Fennel and Tomato Couscous
For a one-dish meal, we cook couscous in the flavorful cooking liquid once the chicken is done.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a simple braised chicken dinner with fresh Italian flavors, we combined bone-in chicken breasts with fennel and bright cherry tomatoes. Store-bought chicken broth flavored with garlic, salt, and pepper made a simple cooking liquid that seasoned the chicken as it simmered and helped it to cook gently and evenly. Once the chicken was cooked, we used the flavorful cooking liquid, enriched with the chicken’s juices, to cook couscous for a quick and easy side dish. A quick basil vinaigrette brought freshness and acidity when drizzled over both the chicken and the couscous. Be sure to use regular (or fine-grain) couscous; large-grain couscous, often labeled “Israeli-style,” takes much longer to cook and won’t work in this recipe. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Microwave fennel, 1 tablespoon oil, two-thirds of garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl, stirring occasionally, until fennel is tender, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth. Season chicken with salt and pepper and arrange, skinned side up, in even layer in slow cooker. Sprinkle tomatoes over chicken, cover, and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to serving dish and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Strain cooking liquid into fat separator, reserving vegetables. Return vegetables and 1 cup defatted liquid to now-empty slow cooker; discard remaining liquid. Stir in couscous, cover, and cook on high until tender, about 15 minutes.
3. Whisk remaining ¼ cup oil, remaining garlic, basil, vinegar, honey, and mustard together in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add 3 tablespoons dressing to cooked couscous and fluff with fork to combine. Drizzle chicken with remaining dressing and serve with couscous.
PREPARING FENNEL
1. Cut off tops and feathery fronds.
2. Trim thin slice from base and remove any tough or blemished outer layers.
3. Cut bulb in half through base. Use small sharp knife to remove pyramid-shaped core.
4. Slice fennel halves as directed in recipe.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Looking for an alternative to the classic pairing of chicken and rice, we turned to the flavors and ingredients of Morocco for inspiration. We made a Moroccan spice rub by blooming garlic, garam masala, and turmeric with a small amount of olive oil in the microwave. To complete our meal with an easy but flavorful side, we stirred couscous, shredded carrots, and some of our spiced cooking liquid into the slow cooker while the chicken rested. After just 15 minutes, the couscous had cooked through and was ready to be served. A quick vinaigrette brought freshness and acidity when drizzled over both the chicken and the couscous. Be sure to use regular (or fine-grain) couscous; large-grain couscous, often labeled “Israeli-style,” takes much longer to cook and won’t work in this recipe. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Add broth to slow cooker. Microwave 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, garam masala, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and turmeric in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly. Rub chicken with spice mixture, then arrange, skinned side up, in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to serving dish and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Transfer cooking liquid to fat separator. Return 1 cup defatted liquid to now-empty slow cooker; discard remaining liquid. Stir in couscous and carrots, cover, and cook on high until couscous is tender, about 15 minutes.
3. Whisk orange juice, cilantro, vinegar, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil together in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add almonds and 3 tablespoons dressing to cooked couscous and fluff with fork to combine. Drizzle chicken with remaining dressing and serve with couscous.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Getting to Know Couscous
Couscous is a starch made from durum semolina, the high-protein wheat flour that is also used to make Italian pasta. However, while pasta is made with ground durum semolina that is mixed with water to form a dough, traditional Moroccan couscous is made by rubbing crushed durum semolina and water between the hands to form small granules. The couscous is then dried and, traditionally, cooked over a simmering stew in a steamer called a couscoussier. About the size of bread crumbs, the couscous found in most supermarkets is a precooked version that needs only a few minutes of steeping in hot liquid in order to be fully cooked. Pearl couscous, also known as Israeli couscous, is larger than traditional couscous (about the size of a caper) and, like Italian pasta, is made from durum semolina flour. However, it is toasted, rather than dried, which gives it its unique, nutty flavor.
Couscous
Pearl Couscous
Greek Chicken with Warm Tabbouleh
Fresh oregano and lemon zest give both the chicken and the hearty bulgur bold flavor.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Most grains need to cook for much longer than chicken to become tender enough to eat, making it a challenge to adapt this dish to a slow cooker. Looking for bright and fresh flavors to pair with our Greek-inspired chicken, we turned to the classic tabbouleh salad. Fortunately, our testing revealed that medium-grind bulgur is one of the few hearty grains that can cook through in the slow cooker without breaking down and becoming gummy. Rubbing the chicken with an aromatic mixture of garlic, oregano, and lemon zest seasoned not only the chicken but also the bulgur as it cooked. We drained the bulgur at the end of cooking to remove excess liquid and seasoned it with olive oil, lemon juice, parsley, and tomatoes to turn the hearty grain into a vibrant salad. When shopping, don’t confuse bulgur with cracked wheat, which has a much longer cooking time and will not work in this recipe. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine bulgur, broth, and ¼ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Microwave 1 tablespoon oil, 1 tablespoon oregano, 1 teaspoon lemon zest, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly. Rub chicken with oregano mixture, then arrange, skinned side up, in even layer in prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Whisk yogurt, 1 tablespoon parsley, water, remaining 1 teaspoon oregano, remaining ¼ teaspoon lemon zest, and ⅛ teaspoon salt together in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Transfer chicken to serving dish, brushing any bulgur that sticks to breasts back into slow cooker. Drain bulgur mixture, if necessary, and return to now-empty slow cooker. Add tomatoes, lemon juice, remaining 7 tablespoons parsley, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil and fluff with fork to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chicken with tabbouleh and yogurt sauce.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS CHICKEN AND POTATOES
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
These five recipes feature chicken and potatoes and a variety of spices, aromatics, and vegetables, giving you lots of choices for interesting dinners. We started each recipe by using the microwave to bloom an aromatic oil mixture, then letting it cool slightly before rubbing it directly onto bone-in chicken breasts (skin removed) for a big flavor boost. Microwaving the potatoes before placing them in the bottom of the slow cooker ensured that our vegetables would be fully tender when the chicken finished cooking. Once our chicken and potatoes were perfectly cooked, we whisked together a quick pantry-friendly dressing to accompany the finished dish, along with fresh garnishes to make for a simple and satisfying slow-cooker meal with a vibrant appeal. You will need an oval slow cooker for these recipes. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1 LEMON-ROSEMARY CHICKEN AND POTATOES
1. Microwave 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, rosemary, pepper flakes, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly.
2. Toss potatoes with 1 tablespoon oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in large bowl. Cover potatoes and microwave, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Rub chicken with oil mixture; arrange skinned side up in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
3. Whisk remaining 3 tablespoons oil, water, mustard, lemon zest and juice, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in separate bowl until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer chicken to serving dish; tent loosely with aluminum foil. Stir peas into slow cooker; let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to dish with chicken; drizzle with half of dressing. Serve, passing remaining dressing separately.
2 MEDITERRANEAN CHICKEN AND POTATOES
1. Microwave 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, thyme, orange zest, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly.
2. Toss potatoes and fennel with 1 tablespoon oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in large bowl. Cover vegetables and microwave, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Rub chicken with oil mixture; arrange skinned side up in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
3. Cut away peel and pith from oranges. Quarter oranges, then slice crosswise into ½-inch-thick pieces. Combine oranges, olives, parsley, vinegar, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Using slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to dish with chicken. Serve with orange relish.
3 FRENCH CHICKEN AND WARM POTATO SALAD
1. Microwave 2 tablespoons oil, shallot, thyme, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly.
2. Toss potatoes with 1 tablespoon oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in separate bowl. Cover potatoes and microwave, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Rub chicken with oil mixture; arrange skinned side up in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
3. Whisk remaining 3 tablespoons oil, water, mustard, chives, lemon juice, sugar, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in large bowl until combined. Set aside ¼ cup dressing for serving. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Using slotted spoon, transfer potatoes to bowl with remaining dressing. Add radishes; gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chicken with salad and reserved dressing.
4 SESAME-GINGER CHICKEN AND SWEET POTATOES
1. Microwave 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon ginger, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly.
2. Toss potatoes with remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in large bowl. Cover potatoes and microwave, stirring occasionally, until almost tender, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker with bell pepper. Rub chicken with oil mixture; arrange skinned side up in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
3. Whisk sesame oil, water, vinegar, honey, chili-garlic sauce, and remaining 1 teaspoon ginger in bowl until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Using slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to dish with chicken; drizzle with half of dressing. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and scallions. Serve, passing remaining dressing separately.
5 SPICY PERUVIAN CHICKEN AND SWEET POTATOES
1. Microwave 2 tablespoons oil, habanero, garlic, 2 teaspoons lime zest, 1 teaspoon paprika, cumin, oregano, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly.
2. Toss potatoes with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Cover potatoes and microwave, stirring occasionally, until almost tender, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Rub chicken with oil mixture; arrange skinned side up in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
3. Whisk mayonnaise, sugar, lime juice, remaining ½ teaspoon lime zest, and remaining ¼ teaspoon paprika in bowl until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Using slotted spoon, transfer potatoes to dish with chicken. Sprinkle with mint and pepitas. Serve with sauce.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chicken Provençal represents the best of French peasant cooking—chicken on the bone is slowly simmered with tomatoes, garlic, herbs, and olives—and translating it to a quick and easy slow-cooker dish was a snap. We preferred bone-in chicken thighs to breasts because their richness holds up to the strong garlicky tomato flavor of this classic dish. Once again, strong, bold flavors allowed us to eliminate any browning, simplifying the process. The long-stewed flavor is accented at the end with an addition of olives, parsley, and a dose of good-quality extra-virgin olive oil.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, oil, tomato paste, and oregano in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, wine, and bay leaves. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Discard bay leaves. Stir in olives and parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over chicken. Serve, drizzling individual portions with extra oil and passing lemon wedges and remaining sauce separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Chicken
Here’s what you need to know when buying chicken.
DECIPHERING LABELS A lot of labeling doesn’t (necessarily) mean much. Companies can exploit loopholes to qualify for “Natural/All-Natural,” “Hormone-Free,” and “Vegetarian Diet/Fed” labeling. “USDA Organic,” however, isn’t all hype: The chickens must eat all organic feed without animal byproducts, be raised without antibiotics, and have access to the outdoors.
PAY ATTENTION TO PROCESSING Our research showed that processing is the major player in chicken’s texture and flavor. We found that brands labeled “water-chilled” (soaked in a water bath in which it absorbs up to 14 percent of its weight in water, which you pay for since chicken is sold by the pound) or “enhanced” (injected with broth and flavoring) are unnaturally spongy and are best avoided. Labeling laws say water gain must be shown on the product label, so these should be easily identifiable. When buying whole chickens or chicken parts, look for those that are labeled “air-chilled.” Without the excess water weight, these brands are less spongy in texture (but still plenty juicy) and have more chicken flavor.
BONELESS, SKINLESS BREASTS AND CUTLETS Try to pick a package with breasts of similar size, and pound them to an even thickness so they will cook at the same rate. You can buy cutlets ready to go at the grocery store, but we don’t recommend it. These cutlets are usually ragged and of various sizes; it’s better to cut your own cutlets from breasts.
BONE-IN PARTS You can buy a whole chicken or chicken parts at the supermarket, but sometimes it’s hard to tell by looking at the package if it’s been properly butchered. If you have a few extra minutes, consider buying a whole chicken and butchering it yourself.
WHOLE CHICKENS Whole chickens come in various sizes. Broilers and fryers are younger chickens that weigh 2½ to 4½ pounds. A roaster (or “oven-stuffer roaster”) is an older chicken and usually clocks in between 5 and 7 pounds. Stewing chickens, which are older laying hens, are best used for stews since the meat is tougher and stringier. A 3½- to 4-pound bird will feed four people.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chicken adobo is a popular Filipino dish made by slowly simmering chicken in a mixture of vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, bay leaves, and black pepper. The beauty of this dish is that it features a short ingredient list and requires very little prep work, while still delivering tender, moist chicken and a boldly flavored sauce. In traditional recipes the chicken is marinated, then the marinade is reduced to create a thick sauce. Since we would be cooking the chicken thighs for a full 4 hours, we skipped the marinade and simply cooked the chicken directly in the sauce. So that we wouldn’t have to reduce the sauce over the stove, we scaled it down and added a little tapioca to thicken it as it cooked. Some creamy coconut milk helped to balance the tart and salty flavors of the sauce. Stirring in a portion of the coconut milk just before serving helped to deepen the coconut flavor, which can taste dull after several hours in the slow cooker.
1. Whisk ¼ cup coconut milk, 2 tablespoons vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, tapioca, bay leaves, and 1 teaspoon pepper together in slow cooker. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Discard bay leaves. Whisk remaining ¼ cup coconut milk and remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar into cooking liquid until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over chicken and sprinkle with scallions. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
We made a simple mole sauce using pantry staples for this easy Mexican chicken.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A great mole (a rich Mexican chile sauce) requires hours of slow cooking to develop the deep, complex flavors for which it is so well known, making it a perfect match for the slow cooker. For our mole, we chose meaty bone-in chicken thighs, which paired well with the spicy sauce. We cooked the chicken directly in the mole so it would absorb that smoky-sweet flavor, and after 4 hours in the slow cooker it was fall-off-the-bone tender. Traditionally mole boasts an extensive list of ingredients, but we streamlined the recipe by relying on pantry staples, including chili powder, cocoa powder, and peanut butter, for complex flavor without the work. Canned diced tomatoes added acidity, and raisins gave us just the right sweetness; finishing with cilantro brightened things up.
1. Combine tomatoes and reserved juice, raisins, cocoa, peanut butter, chili powder, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in slow cooker. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Process cooking liquid in blender until smooth, about 30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour 1 cup sauce over chicken and sprinkle with cilantro. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
REMOVING CHICKEN SKIN
Chicken skin is often slippery, making it a challenge to remove by hand, even when the chicken has been browned. To simplify the task, use a paper towel to provide extra grip while pulling.
Chinese Barbecued Chicken Thighs
These Chinese barbecued chicken thighs get their deep caramelization from the broiler after they are cooked.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chinese barbecued chicken is not something most people would associate with a slow cooker, but this dish comes surprisingly close to the labor-intensive classic. The process for making it in a slow cooker is quite simple: First, we made a quick sauce layered with Asian flavors including five-spice powder, hoisin, honey, soy sauce, sesame oil, and ginger. Cooking the chicken in the slow cooker with half of the sauce helped to tenderize the meat and infused it with the sauce’s flavors. And since this classic’s hallmark lies in its deeply caramelized exterior, we moved our chicken from the slow cooker to the broiler. We brushed the meat with the remaining sauce and gave it a few minutes under a hot broiler to caramelize. In the end we were left with beautiful mahogany barbecued chicken.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine hoisin, ketchup, honey, soy sauce, sherry, oil, ginger, garlic, and five-spice powder in bowl. Place chicken in prepared slow cooker and pour half of hoisin mixture over top. Turn chicken to coat evenly. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer chicken to prepared rack; discard cooking liquid. Broil chicken until browned, about 10 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling.
3. Brush chicken with half of sauce and continue to broil until lightly charred, about 5 minutes, flipping and brushing chicken with remaining sauce halfway through broiling. Serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Although our slow-cooker barbecued drumsticks required some time under the broiler at the end to caramelize their skin until glossy brown, they were otherwise prep-free—it took only a few minutes to measure out the spices and sauce and get them under way.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Toss chicken with paprika, chili powder, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, and cayenne in prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer chicken to prepared rack. Broil chicken until lightly charred, about 10 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling.
3. Whisk ketchup, molasses, mustard, vinegar, sugar, and liquid smoke in bowl until sugar is dissolved. Brush chicken with one-third of sauce and continue to broil until lightly charred, about 5 minutes, flipping and brushing chicken with more sauce halfway through broiling. Brush chicken with remaining sauce. Serve.
Fig-Balsamic Glazed Chicken Drumsticks
Fig preserves, balsamic vinegar, and orange zest elevate ordinary drumsticks to new heights.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Following our success with slow-cooker chicken wings, we wanted to use our easy method to make tender slow-cooked drumsticks with a delicious sticky-sweet glaze. The method translated perfectly to the drumsticks; we simply seasoned them with salt, pepper, and a little aromatic rosemary and cooked them until tender. Then we set them on a wire rack and broiled them until the skin was crisp and browned, glazing them partway through. For the glaze, we decided on the classic Italian combination of figs and balsamic vinegar. To keep our glaze as simple as possible, we relied on fig preserves, which had great flavor and an ideal thick consistency. We simply added some balsamic vinegar and orange zest to round out the flavor. These drumsticks cook up charred and sticky after a short time under the broiler.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Toss chicken with rosemary, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer chicken to prepared rack. Broil chicken until lightly charred, about 10 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling.
3. Whisk preserves, vinegar, orange zest, 1 teaspoon pepper, and ½ teaspoon salt together in bowl. Brush chicken with one-third of sauce and continue to broil until lightly charred, about 5 minutes, flipping and brushing chicken with more sauce halfway through broiling. Brush chicken with remaining sauce. Serve.
Our charred jerk chicken was so appealing that tasters questioned whether we had a grill hidden somewhere.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to use a slow cooker to create an authentic-tasting jerk chicken recipe—with fiery chiles, warm spices, and fragrant herbs—that tasted just as good as its more commonly grilled counterpart. First, we used a food processor to make a smooth paste of the traditional mix of aromatics—scallions, garlic, habanero chiles (also called Scotch bonnets), and ginger—along with sticky molasses, dried thyme, allspice, salt, and oil to bind everything together. We coated the chicken with some of this paste before cooking and saved the rest for basting later on. Following a slow braise in the slow cooker, after which the chicken was tender but still intact, we finished it under the broiler, basting it with more of the paste until it was lightly charred and crisp. If you can’t find habanero chiles, substitute 2 to 4 jalapeño chiles. For even more heat, include the chile seeds.
1. Process scallions, oil, habaneros, ginger, molasses, garlic, thyme, allspice, and salt in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds.
2. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Transfer ½ cup mixture to prepared slow cooker; reserve remaining mixture separately. Add chicken to slow cooker and turn to coat evenly with scallion mixture. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
3. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer chicken to prepared rack; discard cooking liquid. Broil chicken until browned, about 10 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling.
4. Brush chicken with half of reserved scallion mixture and continue to broil until lightly charred, about 5 minutes, flipping and brushing chicken with remaining scallion mixture halfway through broiling. Serve with lime wedges.
Precooking the sweet-salty huli huli sauce is the key to keeping it from becoming too diluted in the slow cooker.
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to create a slow-cooker version of this Hawaiian chicken, with its tropical flavor and mahogany coating. The chicken’s deep color gets a little help from a salty-sweet sauce (called huli huli), which contains brown sugar, ketchup, and soy sauce. Slow-cooker chicken emerges rather pale at the end of the cooking time, so we knew we’d have to finish the chicken under the broiler to get the level of caramelization we were seeking. Precooking the sauce on the stovetop was ideal, as it thickened the mixture and concentrated its flavor. To balance the intensity of the soy sauce, we added pineapple juice and lime juice, which provided sweetness and acidity, while fresh garlic and ginger rounded things out. We added half of our sauce to the slow cooker to infuse flavor into the chicken as it braised. Basting the chicken with the remaining sauce while finishing it under the broiler enabled us to achieve a traditional-looking mahogany lacquer.
1. Bring pineapple juice, sugar, ketchup, lime juice, soy sauce, garlic, and ginger to simmer in medium saucepan over medium heat and cook until thickened and measures 1 cup, 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Transfer ½ cup sauce to prepared slow cooker; reserve remaining sauce separately. Season chicken with salt and pepper, add to slow cooker, and turn to coat evenly with sauce. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
3. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer chicken to prepared rack; discard cooking liquid. Broil chicken until browned, about 10 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling.
4. Brush chicken with ¼ cup reserved sauce and continue to broil until chicken is lightly charred, about 5 minutes, flipping and brushing chicken with remaining ¼ cup sauce halfway through broiling. Serve.
SERVES 4 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A combination of sliced cremini mushrooms and diced tomatoes made a great start to a rustic Cacciatore sauce for bone-in chicken thighs, but it still needed some work. We wanted a sauce that would cling to the chicken and lightly coat a bed of noodles or rice. Instead, by the end of cooking, the mushrooms, tomatoes, and chicken had released so much liquid that the sauce was thin, watery, and dull. To cut back on moisture, first we switched from diced tomatoes to crushed, which still gave us great simmered tomato flavor but added a lot less moisture. Then, we briefly sautéed the mushrooms along with the aromatics to release their moisture. A dose of fresh parsley added at the end contributed a bright note and rounded out the hearty flavors of this rustic meal.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add cremini mushrooms, onion, and ¼ teaspoon salt, cover, and cook until vegetables are softened and mushrooms have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until vegetables are dry and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, porcini mushrooms, garlic, oregano, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir tomatoes into slow cooker. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
3. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Stir parsley and vinegar into sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over chicken. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
SIMPLE SIDES
CREAMY PARMESAN POLENTA
SERVES 4 TO 6
Coarse-ground degerminated cornmeal such as yellow grits (with uniform grains the size of couscous) works best in this recipe. Avoid instant or quick-cooking products, as well as whole-grain, stone-ground, and regular cornmeal. Do not omit the baking soda—it reduces the cooking time and makes for a creamier polenta. This recipe can easily be doubled in a Dutch oven.
1. Bring water to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir in 1½ teaspoons salt and baking soda. Slowly pour cornmeal into water in steady stream while stirring back and forth with wooden spoon or rubber spatula. Bring mixture to boil, stirring constantly, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to lowest setting and cover.
2. After 5 minutes, whisk polenta to smooth out any lumps that may have formed, about 15 seconds. (Make sure to scrape down sides and along bottom of saucepan.) Cover and continue to cook, without stirring, until polenta grains are tender but slightly al dente, about 25 minutes longer. (Polenta should be loose and barely hold its shape; it will continue to thicken as it cools.)
3. Off heat, stir in Parmesan and oil, and season with pepper to taste. Cover and let sit for 5 minutes. Serve.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This Korean-inspired dish came together quickly and highlighted the spicy flavor of kimchi (a fermented Korean condiment made from cabbage). The strong flavor of kimchi matched well with chicken thighs, which are fattier and meatier than breasts. We reinforced the Asian flavors by making a broth boosted by scallions, garlic, soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, and fresh ginger. To get the most flavor from the kimchi and prevent it from tasting washed out, we added it toward the end of cooking.
1. Combine broth, scallion whites, garlic, tapioca, soy sauce, sugar, oil, and ginger in slow cooker. Season chicken with pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Stir in kimchi, cover, and cook on high until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Transfer chicken and kimchi to serving dish. Spoon 1 cup sauce over chicken and sprinkle with scallion greens. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
Chicken Thighs with Swiss Chard and Mustard
We use both dry mustard and whole-grain mustard in this dish to create the best flavor.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Tender chicken, spicy mustard, and earthy Swiss chard are a great combination for a warming winter supper. Quick-cooking Swiss chard may not seem like a good match for the slow cooker, but we found that we could add it for just the last 30 minutes of cooking and get it perfectly crisp-tender without dirtying an extra pot. To complement the slightly bitter chard, we wanted a rich, mustardy sauce. We found that a combination of dry and whole-grain mustard was the key to getting the right amount of mustard flavor. Dry mustard added to the slow cooker at the beginning of cooking infused the chicken with a subtle flavor, and finishing the sauce with bold whole-grain mustard punched up its acidity. Onion, garlic, and some thyme rounded out the dish’s flavors.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, oil, dry mustard, and thyme in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to plate. Stir chard, 1 handful at a time, into slow cooker. Arrange chicken evenly on top of chard, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook on high until chard is wilted, 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Stir whole-grain mustard into Swiss chard and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Curried Chicken Thighs with Acorn Squash
Arranging the squash along the bottom of the slow cooker ensures that the large wedges are perfectly cooked.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Meaty chicken thighs are a perfect match for the slow cooker, as they become meltingly tender in its moist heat environment. Here we opted to pair them with wedges of acorn squash, which are hearty enough to withstand a few hours in the slow cooker and still hold their shape. To give this dish a distinct flavor profile we rubbed the chicken with curry powder that we had bloomed in the microwave with a little bit of oil. To finish, we microwaved a mixture of honey and cayenne, to which we added lime juice, then drizzled the mixture over the chicken and squash. This simple step tied together the flavors of this easy one-dish meal. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Shingle squash wedges, cut side down, into slow cooker, then add ½ cup water. Microwave oil, curry powder, salt, and pepper in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly. Rub chicken with curry mixture and arrange in single layer on top of squash. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken and squash to serving dish; discard cooking liquid. Microwave honey and cayenne in bowl until heated through, about 30 seconds. Stir in lime juice. Drizzle chicken and squash with honey mixture and sprinkle with cilantro. Serve.
PREPARING ACORN SQUASH
1. Set squash on damp dish towel to hold in place. Position chef’s knife on top of squash and strike with mallet to drive it into squash. Continue to hit knife with mallet until it cuts completely through squash.
2. After scooping out seeds with spoon, place squash halves cut side down on cutting board and cut in half, pole to pole, using mallet if necessary.
Lemony Chicken and Rice with Spinach and Feta
We dress up quiet chicken and rice with bright Mediterranean flavors.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a chicken and rice dinner that was big on flavor but light on prep, we looked to the Mediterranean for inspiration. We included feta for its briny tang, lemon for its brightness, and baby spinach for freshness and color. To start, we microwaved simple aromatics to bloom and develop their flavor before adding them to the slow cooker. We then added meaty bone-in chicken thighs for their deep flavor and cooked them on low to tender perfection. Once the chicken was cooked, we removed the thighs and stirred in instant rice, then nestled the chicken on top and continued to cook just until the rice was cooked through. Be sure to use instant rice (sometimes labeled minute rice); traditional rice takes much longer to cook and won’t work here.
1. Microwave onion, oil, garlic, oregano, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to plate. Stir rice into slow cooker. Arrange chicken on top of rice, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook on high until rice is tender, 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Transfer chicken to serving dish and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Gently stir spinach into slow cooker, 1 handful at a time, and let sit until wilted, about 5 minutes. Stir in lemon zest and juice, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer rice to dish with chicken and sprinkle with feta and parsley. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Instant Rice
While we aren’t very impressed with how instant rice tastes on its own, it is the perfect choice for slow-cooker rice-based dishes. By comparison, raw long-grain white rice cooked very unevenly, while precooked homemade rice and packaged fully cooked rice retained their distinct texture and didn’t bind well. Not only did instant rice cook very evenly, but its slightly starchy texture helped to thicken soups and stews and to bind casseroles together.
SERVES 4 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Juicy chicken, tender black-eyed peas, and earthy kale are a great combination for a healthy and comforting supper. Sturdy kale is a perfect match for the slow cooker; after a quick spin in the microwave (along with onion, garlic, and oil) it could be added to the slow cooker to fully soften and cook through. To complement the bitter kale we wanted rich, slightly spicy black-eyed peas. We found that a combination of dry mustard and hot sauce was the key to getting the right balance between heat and spice. Dry mustard added to the slow cooker at the beginning of cooking infused the chicken with a subtle flavor, and finishing the peas with hot sauce punched up the heat and acidity of the dish. Pureeing a portion of the peas also helped to thicken the juices released from the chicken during cooking.
1. Microwave kale, onion, garlic, oil, mustard, and thyme in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, 5 to 7 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Process broth and one-third of peas in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in remaining peas. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
3. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Stir hot sauce into ragout and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chicken with ragout.
To develop intense flavor, we sauté mushrooms in bacon fat to start our quick sauce.
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Julia Child put this dish (with all of the components cooked separately) on the American food map in the early 1960s. For an easier version made in the slow cooker, we first browned flavorful chicken thighs in a skillet and then transferred them to the slow cooker. Next, we crisped bacon in the skillet and set it aside so that it would still be crispy when we added it back at the end of cooking. Though we discarded most of the fat from the chicken and bacon to control greasiness, we used a bit of it to help build a quick sauce, sautéing mushrooms in 4 tablespoons of the combined fat before adding tomato paste, garlic, and flour to the skillet. Just 1¾ cups of dry red wine was all we needed to finish our sauce, along with thyme to add some depth. After a few hours on low, our slow-cooker Coq au Vin was ready to finish with minced fresh parsley and pieces of crispy bacon.
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook half of chicken, skin side down, until well browned, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer chicken, skin side up, to slow cooker; repeat with remaining chicken. Add onions to slow cooker.
2. Reserve chicken fat left in skillet. Add bacon to now-empty skillet and cook over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel–lined bowl; set aside until ready to serve.
3. Pour off all but ¼ cup fat left in skillet. If necessary, add reserved chicken fat to equal ¼ cup. Add mushrooms and cook until softened and well browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, garlic, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps. Bring to simmer and cook until thickened and spatula leaves trail in sauce, about 2 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Using large spoon, skim excess fat from surface of sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over chicken and sprinkle with reserved bacon and parsley. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Bacon
Good bacon is meaty, smoky, salty, and sweet; it has what industry experts call “balanced bacon flavor.” To find the best, we tasted six thick strips (based partly on actual thickness rather than labels, since some fatter slices weren’t identified as such) and four traditional slices from nationally available supermarket brands (choosing both styles from the same brand when possible). We highly recommend two thick-cut bacons, Farmland Thick Sliced Bacon and Plumrose Premium Thick Sliced Bacon, and one traditional bacon, Oscar Mayer Naturally Hardwood Smoked Bacon. The thick-cut Farmland strip was the meatiest strip we tried, with its saltiness nicely offset by its sweetness. The Plumrose bacon was “pleasantly smoky and substantially meaty.” Tasters described the traditional slice of Oscar Mayer bacon as having “a nice ratio of fat to lean meat,” and being “perfect in terms of crispness.”
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The traditional Southern style of “smothered” chicken involves cooking the chicken low-and-slow in a rich gravy. Too often, though, versions of smothered chicken taste like whatever else is in the dish, rather than the chicken itself. But smothered chicken is designed to coax out as much flavor as possible from the chicken, and the slow cooker is the perfect tool for the job. To start, we tossed chicken thighs in flour and browned them in batches to render some fat and build a base of flavor. Once the chicken was browned, we moved it to the slow cooker and used some of the residual fat to sauté the aromatic ingredients for the sauce. A simple mix of onion, celery, garlic, and sage gave a clean, savory base that enhanced the rich chicken flavor. Achieving the right consistency for the sauce took some tinkering. In the end, we found that just 1 cup of chicken broth with 2 tablespoons of flour made for a velvety rich sauce, and was plenty to smother the chicken for serving. Once the sauce was added to the slow cooker, we cooked everything until the chicken was tender and our sauce was deeply flavorful. This simple braise may not be flashy, but its robust chicken flavor, brought to life in the slow cooker, is deeply satisfying.
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Spread ½ cup flour in shallow dish. Working with 1 piece at a time, dredge chicken in flour, shaking off excess, and transfer to plate.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook half of chicken until deep golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes per side. Transfer chicken, skin side up, to slow cooker; repeat with remaining chicken, adjusting heat as needed if flour begins to burn.
3. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet. Add onions, celery, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and cook over medium heat until vegetables are softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in garlic, sage, and remaining 2 tablespoons flour and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing any lumps; transfer to slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Using large spoon, skim excess fat from surface of sauce. Stir in vinegar and parsley, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over chicken. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
Sweet and Tangy Pulled Chicken
The homemade barbecue sauce for our pulled chicken starts in the microwave.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A simple spice mixture and a quick homemade barbecue sauce made it easy to turn slow-cooked bone-in chicken into tangy, silky, shredded chicken—perfect for piling onto buns for an easy dinner. Quickly microwaving the aromatics together with the chili powder, paprika, and cayenne softened the onions and infused them with layers of barbecue flavor while at the same time blooming the spices. We found that simply seasoning the chicken with salt and pepper before nestling the breasts into our quick sauce mixture of ketchup, molasses, and the aromatics was enough to infuse the chicken with the rich essence of the sauce. Stirring in vinegar at the beginning of cooking made the sauce too thin and dulled its acidity, but adding 2 tablespoons of vinegar at the end of cooking, along with a small amount of mustard, ensured that the sauce was the perfect consistency and retained its bright flavors. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees. Serve with pickle chips and Sweet and Tangy Coleslaw.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, tomato paste, chili powder, oil, paprika, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and cayenne in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in ketchup and molasses. Add chicken to slow cooker and coat evenly with sauce mixture. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard bones. Stir vinegar and mustard into sauce. Adjust consistency with hot water as needed. Stir in chicken and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve on hamburger buns.
We create a flavorful cooking liquid for boneless, skinless chicken thighs using store-bought salsa verde.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make great chicken soft tacos, we needed a tender, flavorful chicken filling. Cooking chicken in tomatillo salsa flavored the chicken in a big way without the involved prep of using fresh tomatillos. Fresh poblano chile peppers lent a little heat to the sauce and created a more complex flavor profile than salsa alone. We found that boneless chicken thighs worked best here; after 4 to 5 hours in the slow cooker they were meltingly tender and could be shredded easily. Finishing with a little lime juice and cilantro added fresh flavor. Jarred tomatillo salsa is also called salsa verde. We don’t discard any of the cooking liquid so as to help season the chicken and keep the filling moist; a slotted spoon works best for serving the filling. Serve with lime wedges, diced avocado, queso fresco, and/or sour cream.
1. Combine salsa, poblanos, ¼ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and oregano in slow cooker. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Using tongs, break chicken into bite-size pieces. Stir in cilantro and lime juice, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with warmed tortillas.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Warming Tortillas
ON THE STOVETOP When warming tortillas on the stovetop, work with one tortilla at a time. For a gas stove, place the tortilla over a medium flame until slightly charred, about 30 seconds per side. For an electric stove, toast the tortilla in a skillet over medium-high heat until it is softened and speckled with brown spots, 20 to 30 seconds per side. Transfer the toasted tortillas to a plate and cover with a dish towel to keep them warm.
IN THE OVEN Wrap up to six tortillas in aluminum foil and place them in a 350-degree oven for about 5 minutes. To warm more than six tortillas, divide them into multiple foil packets. To keep the tortillas warm, simply leave them wrapped in foil until ready to use.
We found that instant tapioca is an easy way to thicken the sauce in this chicken curry.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Curries are especially well suited to the slow cooker. When the ingredients have the opportunity to cook for hours, the flavors meld and the result is a deeply flavorful and complex dish. To pack the most flavor into our curry, we focused on the essentials: curry powder, garlic, ginger, chiles, and garam masala, and bloomed them in oil in the microwave before adding them to the slow cooker. Creamy, slightly nutty chickpeas and hearty cauliflower worked well with the flavors of the curry and accented the mild flavor of the chicken. With the steady heat of the slow cooker, the vegetables and chicken cooked to tender perfection in the same rate of time without the worry of overcooking. For additional thickening power, we added instant tapioca to the slow cooker along with the chicken broth. Yogurt tempered into the stew after cooking helped balance its heat and added velvety richness.
1. Microwave onions, jalapeño, oil, garlic, ginger, curry powder, tomato paste, garam masala, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in chickpeas, cauliflower, tomatoes, broth, and tapioca. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks.
3. Whisk ½ cup cooking liquid and yogurt together in bowl (to temper), then stir mixture back into slow cooker. Stir in chicken and peas and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with lime wedges.
CUTTING CAULIFLOWER INTO FLORETS
1. Pull off any leaves, then cut out core of cauliflower using paring knife.
2. Separate florets from inner stem using tip of paring knife.
3. Cut larger florets into smaller pieces by slicing through stem.
Braised Chicken Sausages with White Bean Ragout
Flavorful Italian chicken sausages are the centerpiece of this rustic one-dish meal.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this hearty winter braise, a simple combination of sausage, beans, and rosemary is transformed into a rich, warming bean ragout by the gentle simmer of the slow cooker. For the main components of the dish, we chose delicately flavored cannellini beans and Italian chicken sausage, which was full of spices like fennel and caraway that would flavor the dish. We combined broth, wine, minced garlic, and rosemary for a flavorful cooking liquid that would season the beans as they cooked. Cherry tomatoes added a pop of bright color and fresh flavor. Once the sausage was cooked and the beans were tender, we mashed a portion of the beans and tomatoes together to help thicken the ragout. Stirring in some baby spinach right before serving brightened up this comforting dish. Italian turkey sausage can be substituted for the chicken sausage.
1. Combine beans, broth, wine, garlic, rosemary sprig, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in slow cooker. Nestle sausage into slow cooker and top with tomatoes. Cover and cook until sausage is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low.
2. Transfer sausage to serving dish and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Discard rosemary sprig. Transfer 1 cup bean-tomato mixture to bowl and mash with potato masher until mostly smooth.
3. Stir spinach, 1 handful at a time, and mashed bean mixture into slow cooker and let sit until spinach is wilted, about 5 minutes. Stir in oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve sausages with ragout.
SERVES 4 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this hearty dinner, a combination of sausage, peppers, onions, and potatoes is transformed into a satisfying meal by the gentle and moist heat of the slow cooker. For the main components, we chose creamy red potatoes, bell peppers, onions, and Italian turkey sausage, which is packed with spices like fennel and caraway that would flavor the dish. We microwaved tomato paste, garlic, oregano, and red pepper flakes with the vegetables, both to give the potatoes, peppers, and onions a head start and to infuse them with layers of flavor. Some fresh basil stirred in right before serving brightened up this dish. Italian chicken sausage can be substituted for the turkey sausage.
1. Microwave potatoes, bell peppers, onion, tomato paste, water, garlic, oregano, and pepper flakes in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are almost tender, about 15 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth. Nestle sausage into slow cooker, cover, and cook until sausage and vegetables are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low.
2. Transfer sausage to serving dish. Stir basil into vegetable mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon vegetable mixture over sausage. Serve.
CHAPTER 4
BEEF
Braised Steaks with Mushrooms and Onions ■
Braised Steaks with Horseradish Smashed Potatoes ■ ■
Rustic Italian Braised Beef Short Ribs ■ ■
Braised Oxtails with White Beans and Tomatoes ■
Shredded Beef Tacos with Cabbage-Carrot Slaw ■ ■
Beef and Broccoli Stir-Fry ■ ■
Mexican Meatballs with Chorizo and Rice
PORK AND LAMB
Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Raisin-Almond Couscous ■
Herbed Pork Tenderloin with Ratatouille ■ ■
Smothered Pork Chops with Onions and Bacon ■
Braised Pork Chops with Dried Fruit Compote ■ ■
Braised Pork Chops with Campfire Beans ■ ■
MAKE IT 5 WAYS: BARBECUED SPARERIBS
Classic Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
Sweet and Sour Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
Spicy Mustard Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
Chinese Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
Fiesta Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
Pork Carnitas ■ ■
North Carolina Pulled Pork ■ ■
Street Fair Sausages with Peppers and Onions ■
Braised Lamb Shanks with Bell Peppers and Harissa ■
SIMPLE SIDES
■ EASY PREP
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
Braised Steaks with Mushrooms and Onions
A little heavy cream, stirred into the sauce left behind in the slow cooker, enriches these beefy blade steaks.
SERVES 4 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This dish promises meltingly tender blade steaks smothered in a sauce of sweet onions and earthy mushrooms, a combination that works perfectly in the slow cooker. To get the deep, robust flavor we were after, we browned the onions (to bring out their natural sweetness) and the mushrooms (to deepen their inherent earthiness), and added flour as a thickener and a splash of sherry to deglaze the pan and complement the flavors of the onions and mushrooms. After hours in the slow cooker the steaks melded with the onions and mushrooms, turning fork-tender and rich-tasting. To finish the dish, we added a bit of cream to round out the flavors, and some parsley for freshness. You can substitute an equal amount of beef flat-iron steaks, if desired.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms, onion, and ¼ teaspoon salt, cover, and cook until vegetables are softened and mushrooms have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until vegetables are dry and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in flour, thyme, and paprika and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in broth and sherry, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Season steaks with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
3. Transfer steaks to serving dish. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in cream and parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over steaks and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to complement rich, tender braised steaks with a bright, aromatic tomato sauce. Blade steaks, a reasonably priced cut that turns meltingly tender when slow-cooked, had lots of meaty flavor. For a flavor-packed base for our sauce, we microwaved onions, tomato paste, garlic, anchovy, and red pepper flakes to bring out their flavors. We added this potent mixture to the slow cooker with the steaks; as the steaks cooked, their juices melded with the aromatics to create a deeply flavorful sauce. Once the meat was tender, we simply stirred in briny olives and capers and plenty of fresh parsley for a bright sauce that perfectly balanced the rich steak. You can substitute an equal amount of beef flat-iron steaks, if desired.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, tomato paste, oil, anchovy, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Season steaks with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Transfer steaks to serving dish. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in olives, parsley, and capers, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over steaks and serve.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Steak and smashed potatoes are a classic pairing that we wanted to bring to the slow cooker. We knew our biggest challenge would be getting the steak and potatoes to cook through in the same amount of time. The key to success turned out to be pairing the right-size potatoes to the cooking time of the steaks and arranging the potatoes above the steaks in order for them to cook through more gently. Once they were fully cooked, we smashed the potatoes with milk, cream cheese, butter, fresh chives, and spicy horseradish. We braised blade steaks in a mix of onions, garlic, and tomato paste until they were nearly fall-apart tender. To make the sauce, we simply defatted the braising liquid and then served it with the rich steak and creamy, tangy potatoes. Look for small red potatoes measuring 1 to 2 inches in diameter; if your potatoes are larger, cut them into 1-inch pieces to ensure that they cook through properly. Buy refrigerated prepared horseradish, not the shelf-stable kind, which contains preservatives and additives. You can substitute an equal amount of beef flat-iron steaks, if desired.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, tomato paste, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Season steaks with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Arrange potatoes on top of steaks. Cover and cook until beef and potatoes are tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
3. Using slotted spoon, transfer potatoes to large bowl. Transfer steaks to serving dish, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while finishing potatoes and jus.
4. Break potatoes into large chunks with back of large spoon. Fold in warm milk, cream cheese, melted butter, horseradish, and chives until incorporated and only small chunks of potato remain. Adjust potatoes’ consistency with extra warm milk as needed. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of jus. Season potatoes and jus with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon jus over steaks and serve with potatoes.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Blade Steaks
One of our favorite cuts for the slow cooker, this surprisingly tender steak is a small cut from the cow’s shoulder, or chuck, where most other cuts are quite tough. Blade steaks are inexpensive because they have a line of gristle that runs down the middle, but when slow-cooked these steaks turn fall-apart tender and the gristle is easily removed, yielding a richly flavored, beefy steak.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Throwing away meat because it went bad before you had a chance to cook it is frustrating, particularly when you’ve spent a lot of money on a nice steak or cut of lamb. Proper storage is the best way to prolong its shelf life and prevent waste.
REFRIGERATING MEAT Raw meat should be refrigerated well wrapped and never on shelves that are above other food. Check regularly to ensure your refrigerator’s temperature is between 35 and 40 degrees. Most raw and cooked meat will keep for two to three days in the refrigerator. Raw ground meat and raw poultry will keep for two days, while smoked ham and bacon will keep for up to two weeks.
FREEZING MEAT In general, meat tastes best when it hasn’t been frozen. If you’re going to freeze meat, wrap it well in plastic wrap and then place the meat in a zipper-lock bag and squeeze out excess air. Label the bag and use the meat within a few months.
THAWING MEAT All meat can be thawed safely on a plate or rimmed baking sheet in the refrigerator (and this is the only safe method for large cuts like whole chickens). Never thaw meat on the counter, where bacteria will rapidly multiply. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, frozen food that is properly thawed is safe to refreeze. However, a second freeze-thaw cycle aggravates moisture loss, reducing the quality of the meat, so we don’t recommend it.
QUICK THAW FOR SMALL cuts Flat cuts like chicken breasts, pork chops, and steaks will thaw more quickly when left on a metal surface rather than on a wood or a plastic one, because metal can transfer ambient heat much more quickly. To thaw frozen wrapped steaks, chops, or ground meat (flattened to 1 inch thick before freezing), place in a skillet (heavy steel and cast-iron skillets work best) in a single layer. Flip the meat every half-hour until it’s thawed. Small cuts can also be sealed in zipper-lock bags and submerged in hot (140-degree) water—this method will safely thaw chicken breasts, steaks, and chops in under 15 minutes.
We “roast” the bones in the microwave, which removes unwanted fat and deepens the flavor of this classic braise.
SERVES 4 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Short ribs are all about the meat and the sauce, so to get a deeply flavored sauce, we first focused on the bones, which we knew were one key to flavor. Not wanting to roast the bones in the oven, we turned to the microwave, which helped in two ways: It rendered out unwanted fat (and short ribs are notoriously greasy), and it gave the bones a roasted flavor, which, in turn, deepened the sauce during the long cooking time. One taste of these long-cooked ribs with their dark, glossy sauce and you’ll be glad you put your microwave and skillet to work first. Look for short ribs that are well marbled with at least 1 inch of meat above the bone.
1. Line large plate with double layer of coffee filters. Working in batches, arrange beef bones on prepared plate and microwave until well browned, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions, carrot, and celery and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in wine and vinegar, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps. Bring to simmer and cook until sauce is thickened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir broth and bay leaves into slow cooker. Season short ribs with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
4. Transfer short ribs to serving dish, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while finishing sauce. Strain cooking liquid into fat separator and let sit for 5 minutes; discard bones and solids. Combine defatted sauce and parsley in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over short ribs and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
PREPARING SHORT RIBS
1. To remove meat from bones, insert sharp knife between rib and meat, staying as close to bone as possible, and cut meat off bone.
2. Using knife, trim away large piece of fat on top, and any fat on bottom of each rib.
Rustic Italian Braised Beef Short Ribs
A microwaved base of aromatics, including 10 garlic cloves, creates a hearty tomato sauce for braised short ribs.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For braised beef short ribs with an Italian spin, we made a flavorful braise with classic Italian ingredients. Starting with the aromatics, we softened onions and bloomed tomato paste, garlic, oil, oregano, and red pepper flakes in the microwave. We added this flavor-packed mixture to the slow cooker with a can of whole peeled tomatoes. As the short ribs simmered, the tomatoes softened and melded with the aromatic ingredients and meaty short ribs to create a hearty tomato sauce reminiscent of a traditional Sunday gravy. Once the short ribs were meltingly tender, we defatted the sauce, then stirred it back into the tomatoes, breaking the tomatoes into large chunks. A generous sprinkling of fresh basil finished the dish on a bright note. Look for boneless short ribs that are well marbled and measure about 2 inches wide and 1 inch thick.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, tomato paste, oil, oregano, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes. Season short ribs with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Transfer short ribs to serving dish, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while finishing sauce. Strain sauce into fat separator, reserving tomatoes, and let sit for 5 minutes. Add reserved tomatoes to large bowl and break into large chunks with back of large spoon. Add defatted sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over short ribs and sprinkle with basil. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Beef Short Ribs
Short ribs are just what their name says they are: short ribs cut from any location along the length of a cow’s rib section. Short ribs can be butchered in a variety of ways. In most supermarkets, you’ll find English-style short ribs (top). This widely available choice contains a single bone, 4 to 5 inches long, with a thick piece of meat below it. In some supermarkets you can also buy boneless short ribs (bottom); when doing so, look for meat that’s uniform in shape and at least 4 inches long and 1 inch thick. It is best to avoid tapered pieces of meat, which will cook up unevenly.
Braised Oxtails with White Beans and Tomatoes
Browning the oxtails before adding them to the slow cooker gives this humble dish richness through and through.
SERVES 6 TO 8 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Succulent, beefy oxtails play the starring role in this simple Mediterranean-inspired braised dish featuring creamy white beans and an aromatic sauce. To ensure this dish had rich, meaty flavor, we began by browning the oxtails in a skillet before sautéing the aromatics. For aroma we added a simple yet flavorful combination of eastern Mediterranean ingredients to give the braising liquid its character: sweet diced tomatoes, warm and earthy paprika and red pepper flakes, and pungent oregano. We then deglazed the skillet with broth to ensure a flavorful liquid for braising—the key to this humble peasant dish that is surprisingly rich and satisfying. After braising, we were careful to remove the fat from the cooking liquid using a fat separator. To finish our hearty dish, we stirred in a splash of sherry vinegar and some more fresh oregano. Try to buy oxtails that are approximately 2 inches thick and 2 to 4 inches in diameter. Oxtails can often be found in the freezer section of the grocery store; if using frozen oxtails, be sure to thaw them completely before using.
1. Pat oxtails dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of oxtails on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate. Repeat with remaining oxtails; transfer to plate.
2. Add onion, carrot, and 1 teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, tomato paste, 1 teaspoon oregano, paprika, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir tomatoes and beans into slow cooker. Nestle oxtails into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until oxtails are tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Transfer oxtails to serving dish, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while finishing sauce. Strain cooking liquid into fat separator, reserving solids, and let sit for 5 minutes. Transfer reserved solids and defatted liquid to serving bowl. Stir in vinegar and remaining 2 teaspoons oregano, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over oxtails and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
For osso buco with a lush consistency, we process the marrow from the veal shanks with the braising liquid.
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS There are some recipes that you could argue are even better when made in a slow cooker, and ossobuco, the famous Italian classic, is such a dish. This venerable Old World braise extracts incredible flavor from a handful of simple ingredients: veal shanks (which we brown), aromatics (onions, carrots, and celery, all sautéed), and liquids (usually a blend of wine, stock, and tomatoes). Here in the test kitchen we certainly have tackled the traditional version, but now it was time to put the slow cooker to the test and see if we could turn out a version that rivaled it. To provide a savory backbone for the veal shanks we started with the stock. Veal stock is traditional, but few cooks have access to it. We found that chicken broth, along with garlic, onions, carrots, and celery, made a sturdy yet subtle flavor base for our braising liquid. A combination of tomato paste and fresh tomatoes worked perfectly to create plenty of deep tomato flavor. To serve six people, we called for good-size shanks and tied them around the equator to keep the meat attached to the bone. While many recipes suggest flouring the veal before browning it, we got better results by searing the meat seasoned only with salt and pepper. Browning the shanks in two batches prevented overcrowding, while deglazing the pan with wine after softening the aromatics enriched the sauce. At the end of cooking, we processed the marrow from the supertender veal shanks with the braising liquid to give it a lush, thick consistency. Gremolata—a classic component of osso buco comprising a mixture of minced garlic, parsley, and lemon zest—is sometimes used just as a garnish, but often some of it is stirred into the sauce as well. We stirred a quarter of the gremolata right into the braise, and used the remaining to garnish each serving for a final hit of fresh flavor. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Pat shanks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of shanks on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to large plate. Repeat with 2 tablespoons oil and remaining shanks; transfer to plate.
2. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil, onions, carrots, celery, and 1 teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet and cook until vegetables are softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, mushrooms, pepper flakes, and half of garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir broth, tomatoes, bay leaves, and thyme sprig into slow cooker. Nestle shanks into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until shanks are tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
4. Transfer shanks to serving dish and discard twine. Extract marrow from bones using end of small spoon and reserve. Tent shanks loosely with aluminum foil and let rest while finishing sauce.
5. Combine parsley, lemon zest, and remaining garlic in bowl. Discard bay leaves and thyme sprig. Process reserved marrow and 1½ cups cooking liquid in blender until smooth, about 30 seconds. Stir marrow mixture and one-quarter of parsley mixture into remaining cooking liquid and season with salt and pepper to taste. Place shanks in individual serving bowls, ladle sauce over top, and sprinkle with remaining parsley mixture. Serve.
TYING VEAL SHANKS
Tie piece of twine around thickest portion of each shank to keep meat attached to bone while cooking.
A paste made with roasted red peppers and paprika plus 4 pounds of onions gives this goulash bold flavor.
SERVES 6 TO 8 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Because the sauce for this recipe is so packed with flavor, we found that we could skip the standard step of browning the meat and instead brown only the hefty amount of onions and carrots. Adding ⅓ cup of sweet paprika, blended with jarred roasted red peppers, tomato paste, and vinegar, ensured a deep, rich sauce. To thicken the sauce to the proper noodle-coating consistency, we added 3 tablespoons of flour and a judicious amount of water (just 5 tablespoons) to compensate for the moisture that the meat would release as it cooked. To add richness and tang, we stirred in ½ cup of sour cream after the goulash finished cooking and the meat was incredibly tender. Since paprika is vital to this recipe, it is best to use a fresh container. Do not substitute hot or smoked Spanish paprika for the sweet paprika. Serve over egg noodles.
1. Process red peppers, paprika, tomato paste, and vinegar in food processor until smooth, about 2 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.
2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions, carrots, and 1 teaspoon salt, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, bay leaf, and red pepper mixture and cook, uncovered, until mixture begins to brown and stick to bottom of pot, about 2 minutes. Stir in water, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Season beef with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
4. Discard bay leaf. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Whisk ½ cup sauce and sour cream together in bowl (to temper), then stir mixture back into slow cooker. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with parsley.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Sweet and Smoked Paprika
“Paprika” is a generic term for a spice made from ground dried red peppers. Whether paprika is labeled sweet or smoked is determined by the variety (or varieties) of pepper used and how the peppers are cultivated and processed.
SWEET PAPRIKA (sometimes called Hungarian paprika or simply paprika) is the most common. Typically made from a combination of mild red peppers, sweet paprika is prized more for its deep scarlet hue than for its very subtle flavor. Our favorite sweet paprika is The Spice House Hungarian Sweet Paprika, which we found outshone the competition. This brand is available only through mail-order, but we think the complexity of its “earthy,” “fruity” flavors and its “toasty” aroma make this slight inconvenience well worthwhile.
SMOKED PAPRIKA which is traditionally called for in many Spanish recipes, is produced by drying peppers (either sweet or hot) over smoldering oak embers. Since smoked paprika has a deep, musky flavor all its own, we do not recommend using it for all paprika applications; it is best used to season hearty meats or to add a smoky aroma to boldly flavored dishes. Our favorite smoked paprika is Simply Organic Smoked Paprika. Compared with other brands, this made-in-Spain smoked paprika was more redolent with richer, “deeper” smoky flavor. With “the perfect balance of paprika and smokiness,” it was “bright and warm” and “sweet and rounded,” with smoke that “lingered” “without being overpowering.”
Two types of mushrooms, fresh and dried, make them a key player in this beefy stroganoff.
SERVES 6 TO 8 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make sure our slow-cooker version of beef stroganoff delivered tender beef in a meaty mushroom sauce, we started by getting out our skillet and browning the mushrooms to concentrate their flavor, augmenting them with dried porcini mushrooms for an even deeper mushroom flavor that wouldn’t be muted by hours in the slow cooker. Then, since we had our skillet out to brown the white mushrooms, we sautéed the aromatics and created a flour-thickened base for the stew to produce the proper consistency. With such a flavorful base, we didn’t need to brown the meat but could add it directly to the slow cooker—a real timesaver. Serve over egg noodles.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add white mushrooms, onions, and ¼ teaspoon salt, cover, and cook until vegetables are softened and mushrooms have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until vegetables are dry and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, garlic, porcini mushrooms, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in wine and ½ cup broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir remaining 1 cup broth, soy sauce, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Season beef with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
3. Discard bay leaves. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Whisk ½ cup sauce, sour cream, mustard, and dill together in bowl (to temper), then stir mixture back into slow cooker. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
This family-friendly Sloppy Joe filling tastes world’s better than those made with a store-bought seasoning packet.
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Since the texture of the meat is important when it comes to Sloppy Joes, we found it necessary to get out our skillet and brown the beef before adding it to the slow cooker; this simple step ensured small but consistent pieces of tender ground beef. We used a combination of ketchup and canned tomato sauce to give our sandwiches the right combination of gentle sweetness and strong tomato flavor; a bit of brown sugar, chili powder, and hot sauce kept the sauce balanced. We limited the amount of ketchup and tomato sauce to only 2 cups, enough so that the meat was moist and saucy but was still able to fit on a bun. Another bonus: This recipe doubles easily if you’re planning on feeding a crowd.
1. Mash bread, milk, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper into paste in large bowl using fork. Add ground beef and knead with hands until well combined.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and chili powder and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
3. Add half of beef mixture and cook, breaking up beef with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Add remaining ground beef and continue to cook until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato sauce, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
4. Stir ketchup, sugar, and hot sauce into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
5. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Break up any remaining large pieces of beef with spoon. Adjust consistency with hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon mixture onto buns and serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When it comes to tacos, it’s all about the filling. We started by getting out our skillet and sautéing the aromatics and beef before adding them to the slow cooker; this step ensured maximum flavor and small but consistent pieces of tender ground beef. We found tomato sauce was a great base for our taco filling, and intensified the flavor with chili powder, cumin, coriander, and oregano as well as a splash of cider vinegar and touch of brown sugar. The meat, however, was a bit dry, so we added a panade (a paste of milk and bread) to the raw meat before cooking to keep it moist. Serve with your favorite taco toppings.
1. Mash bread, milk, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper into paste in large bowl using fork. Add ground beef and knead with hands until well combined.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in chili powder, garlic, oregano, cumin, and coriander and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
3. Add half of beef mixture and cook, breaking up beef with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Add remaining ground beef and continue to cook until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato sauce, vinegar, and sugar, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
4. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Break up any remaining large pieces of beef with spoon. Adjust consistency with hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with taco shells.
Shredded Beef Tacos with Cabbage-Carrot Slaw
Dried ancho chiles and chipotle chile give these easy-to-make shredded beef tacos their flavor punch.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This easy-to-prepare slow-cooker beef filling makes a great weeknight meal. We turned to chuck roast, with its big beefy flavor, as the basis for the filling because it becomes meltingly tender and shreddable in the slow cooker—plus it’s inexpensive and easy to find. Cutting the roast into 1½-inch pieces helped it cook faster and, as a result, become even more tender than when left whole. To make our red sauce we built a flavorful mixture of dried ancho chiles, chipotle chiles, tomato paste, and a hint of cinnamon. The different types of chiles created layers of heat without turning the sauce overly spicy. We bloomed the aromatics, including the dried chiles, with oil in the microwave to bring out their full flavor and added them to the slow cooker with a little honey to balance the heat, and water to distribute the spices evenly. Once the beef was pull-apart tender, we simply pureed the braising liquid into a rich, smooth sauce and tossed it with the shredded beef. To complement the warm spices of the beef, we topped our tacos with a cool and tangy cabbage slaw, which we kept simple with just a splash of lime juice.
1. Microwave onion, anchos, garlic, tomato paste, oil, chipotle, and cinnamon in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water and honey. Season beef with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Combine cabbage, carrot, jalapeño, lime juice, cilantro, and ½ teaspoon salt in large bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
3. Using slotted spoon, transfer beef to another large bowl. Using potato masher, smash beef until coarsely shredded; cover to keep warm.
4. Process cooking liquid in blender until smooth, about 1 minute. Adjust sauce consistency with extra hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss beef with 1 cup sauce. Toss slaw to recombine. Serve beef with tortillas, slaw, and queso fresco, passing lime wedges and remaining sauce separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Corn Tortillas
While we love homemade corn tortillas, we usually rely on the convenience of store-bought. Good corn tortillas should be soft and pliable, with a fresh, light corn flavor. We compared tortillas in two blind taste tests, first assessing them warmed in an oven and served plain, and then pitting the top four products against one another in enchiladas. Tasters faulted many of the tortillas for being either too sweet or bland. Our winner had a hint of sweetness from its light, fresh corn flavor but no added sugar. It also had the most sodium by far, but no one found them too salty. Actually, they were quite flavorful, which makes sense because salt is a flavor booster. Texture is where supermarket corn tortillas can really go wrong; they’re often crumbly and dry, and they break as you try to bend them around a filling. Our winner maintained pliability by adding wheat gluten, which binds with water to make the dough more cohesive and elastic, which in turn creates a softer, stronger tortilla. This also means that unlike most corn tortillas, our winner is not gluten-free. The bottom line: Low sugar and high salt make the best combination for great flavor. If you’re not worried about gluten, a corn tortilla with added protein from wheat, like our winner, Maria and Ricardo’s Handmade Style Soft Corn Tortillas, is the strongest and most supple option. For those who need gluten-free tortillas, our second-place finisher, Mission White Corn Tortillas, Restaurant Style, while lacking our winner’s firm structure, is still a good option.
The filling for these lettuce wraps is addictively delicious and is supereasy to make using boneless short ribs.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Tender short ribs covered in a sweet/spicy glaze are classic Korean BBQ fare, but when they’re made in a slow cooker, that bold flavor tends to become watered-down. For a signature Korean glaze, we created a base of fruity hoisin sauce, gochujang (a Korean chile-soybean paste), minced ginger, garlic, and a little toasted sesame oil. Instead of adding extra liquid (broth or water) to our base as we do for most braises, we allowed the meat’s natural juices to meld with the glaze base to build a flavor-rich sauce. A tablespoon of instant tapioca helped to ensure the glaze was properly thickened. The addition of rice vinegar and more hoisin after cooking brightened the flavor of the dish, while scallions provided welcome notes of freshness. We prefer to eat these tender short rib pieces wrapped in a lettuce leaf and eaten like a taco, but they are equally delicious served over rice. Gochujang can be found in Asian markets and in some supermarkets. If you can’t find gochujang, substitute an equal amount of Sriracha sauce.
1. Combine ½ cup hoisin, gochujang, ginger, garlic, and tapioca in slow cooker. Season short ribs with pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Transfer short ribs to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks; tent with aluminum foil to keep warm.
3. Transfer cooking liquid to fat separator and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk defatted liquid, vinegar, oil, and remaining 1 tablespoon hoisin together in large bowl. Add beef and scallions and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve beef with lettuce leaves.
SERVES 8 TO 10 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Piled high on soft buns, saucy barbecued shredded beef is a real crowd-pleaser. We chose a boneless chuck-eye roast for the beef since we knew it would become tender and shreddable after hours in a slow cooker. For a richly flavored sauce, we got out our skillet, first browning bacon for smoky flavor, and then sautéing onions and spices in the rendered bacon fat. We then added ketchup, mustard, and brown sugar plus a somewhat unusual ingredient—coffee—which, when reduced down along with all the other sauce ingredients, lent just the complexity we were seeking.
1. Cook bacon in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in onions and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in chili powder and paprika and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in coffee, ketchup, sugar, and 1 tablespoon mustard. Bring to simmer and cook until ketchup mixture is thickened and measures 4 cups, about 10 minutes. Transfer 2 cups of ketchup mixture to slow cooker; reserve remaining mixture separately.
2. Season beef with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
3. Transfer beef to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat. Transfer beef to large bowl and cover to keep warm.
4. Strain cooking liquid into fat separator and let sit for 5 minutes; discard solids. Bring defatted liquid to simmer in saucepan over medium heat and cook until thickened and measures 1 cup, 20 to 30 minutes. Whisk in reserved ketchup mixture, hot sauce, vinegar, remaining 1 tablespoon mustard, and liquid smoke. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss beef with 1½ cups sauce and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Liquid Smoke
We were among the many people who assume that there must be some kind of synthetic chemical chicanery going on in the making of “liquid smoke” flavoring. But that’s not the case. Liquid smoke is made by channeling smoke from smoldering wood chips through a condenser, which quickly cools the vapors, causing them to liquefy (just like the drops that form when you breathe on a piece of cold glass). The water-soluble flavor compounds in the smoke are trapped within this liquid, while the nonsoluble carcinogenic tars and resins are removed by a series of filters, resulting in a clean, smoke-flavored liquid. Our top-rated brand, Wright’s Liquid Smoke, contains nothing but smoke and water.
The vibrant pairing of sweet red bell peppers and onions plus cumin and oregano are the base of this Cuban favorite.
SERVES 4 TO 6
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Ropa vieja, Cuba’s national dish and a favorite in Cuban neighborhoods throughout the United States, is elemental and beautifully simple—a beefy braise of flank steak in a sauce that balances tomato and white wine with sweet peppers, onions, and garlic. Cumin and oregano add warmth, while briny olives and bright vinegar cut the richness of the meat and make the flavors pop. Versions we tried in the slow cooker identified two problems: meat that was too difficult to shred, and a final stew that was too soupy. Choosing the cut of beef was easy: Flank steak, the traditional choice, won out with tasters over chuck (“greasy” and hard to shred), skirt (“mushy” after long cooking), and brisket (a “little fibrous” and not always easy to find). Flank, with its lean, large muscle fibers all running in one direction, not only was the easiest cut to shred, but also stood up best to long, slow cooking without turning greasy. Serve with Basmati Rice Pilaf.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions and peppers, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and spotty brown, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Push vegetables to sides of skillet. Add tomato paste, garlic, cumin, oregano, and ½ teaspoon salt to center of skillet and cook, uncovered, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir tomato paste mixture into vegetables. Stir in wine and cook until nearly evaporated, about 2 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir soy sauce and bay leaves into slow cooker. Season steak with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
4. Transfer steak to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks. Discard bay leaves. Stir beef and olives into slow cooker and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
CUTTING BELL PEPPERS
1. Slice off top and bottom, remove core, then slice down through side of pepper.
2. Lay pepper flat on cutting board, cut away any remaining ribs, then cut pepper into pieces as directed in recipe.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Normally, stir-fry includes splattering hot oil and hectic, last-minute ingredient additions that require lots of advance work. We found a way to simulate a stir-fry in the slow cooker for an easy, light, and mess-free dinner without piles of prep bowls and greasy pans. We chose boneless chuck-eye roast because it contains a fair amount of connective tissue that breaks down and makes the meat meltingly tender after hours in the slow cooker (and since chuck roasts have chunks of visible fat, it’s easy to remove the excess when cutting up the roast for braising). A combination of chicken broth and soy sauce created the body of our “stir-fry” sauce, and instant tapioca gave it the perfect clingy consistency. Sesame oil and dry mustard added richness and depth, and we studded the sauce with ginger and red pepper flakes for two different dimensions of heat. A little extra sesame oil and soy sauce stirred in at the end reinforced the meaty, savory flavors of the sauce. At the same time, we stirred in a splash of acidic orange juice to brighten the dish and add a hint of balancing sweetness. To keep the broccoli bright and fresh, we waited until the end of cooking and briefly steamed it in the microwave before combining it with the tender chunks of beef.
1. Microwave scallion whites, ginger, garlic, 1 teaspoon oil, pepper flakes, and mustard in bowl, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in beef, broth, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, sugar, and tapioca. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Microwave broccoli and ¼ cup water in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 6 minutes. Drain broccoli, then stir into slow cooker along with orange juice, remaining 1 teaspoon oil, and remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce. Let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with extra soy sauce to taste. Sprinkle with scallion greens and serve.
SIMPLE SIDES
BASMATI RICE PILAF
SERVES 4 TO 6
Long-grain white, jasmine, or Texmati rice can be substituted for the basmati. You will need a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe. A nonstick saucepan will help prevent the rice from sticking. This recipe can be easily doubled; increase the amount of water to only 3¾ cups.
1. Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring often, until grain edges begin to turn translucent, about 3 minutes.
2. Stir in water and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and continue to simmer until rice is tender and all water is absorbed, 16 to 18 minutes.
3. Remove saucepan from heat and lay clean folded dish towel underneath lid. Let sit for 10 minutes. Fluff rice with fork, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Broccoli Florets
Broccoli florets add a nice crunch and bright green color to many dishes. Most supermarkets sell broccoli florets already trimmed and ready to go, which helps cut back on prep time and waste. But note that if the florets you’ve purchased are large or unevenly cut, you may need to trim them further before cooking.
Stuffed peppers are easier to make in the slow cooker and require no preblanching of the peppers.
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Creating an easy stuffed pepper recipe in the slow cooker required some tinkering since, in our experience, even good traditional versions can be problematic—bland fillings and tough or mushy peppers are the norm. We didn’t want to spend time at the stove sautéing the beef, nor did we want to parcook the peppers; luckily, we found the long cooking time guaranteed that beef added raw would emerge fully cooked, and the bell peppers would soften perfectly in the moist environment (as long as a little water was added at the outset). Getting perfectly cooked rice was more of a challenge. After trying many varieties of rice, both cooked and raw, we discovered that instant rice, a parcooked product, was the best option and turned out perfectly tender by the time the peppers were finished cooking. As for flavoring, we wanted to up the ante by pairing the classic beef, rice, and cheese trio with strong Tex-Mex spices. We added a healthy dose of Monterey Jack cheese to help hold the filling together, frozen corn, and chili powder and chipotles for heat. A sprinkling of cilantro at the end added brightness. Try to choose peppers with flat bottoms so that they stay upright in the slow cooker. Be sure to use instant rice (sometimes labeled minute rice); traditional rice takes much longer to cook and won’t work here. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Trim ½ inch off top of each pepper, then remove core and seeds. Finely chop pepper tops, discarding stems. Microwave chopped pepper tops, onion, garlic, chili powder, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes.
2. Mash bread, milk, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper into paste in large bowl using fork. Stir in pepper mixture, 1 cup Monterey Jack, corn, rice, and chipotle. Add ground beef and knead with hands until well combined. Divide filling evenly among bell peppers, mounding slightly.
3. Pour ⅓ cup water into slow cooker. Place stuffed peppers upright in slow cooker and sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup Monterey Jack. Cover and cook until peppers are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
4. Using tongs and slotted spoon, transfer peppers to serving dish; discard cooking liquid. Sprinkle with cilantro. Serve.
MAKING STUFFED PEPPERS
Arrange stuffed peppers in slow cooker, leaning them against one another and sides of slow-cooker insert, so that they remain upright during cooking.
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Stuffed with Italian sausage and two kinds of cheese, these slow-cooker stuffed peppers are anything but boring. Keeping with our Italian theme and following the technique we established for making stuffed peppers in the slow cooker, we added tomato paste to the microwaved aromatics, as well as chopped zucchini to the filling, and a topping of Parmesan and chopped fresh basil. Try to choose peppers with flat bottoms so that they stay upright in the slow cooker. Be sure to use instant rice (sometimes labeled minute rice); traditional rice takes much longer to cook and won’t work here. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Trim ½ inch off top of each pepper, then remove core and seeds. Finely chop pepper tops, discarding stems. Microwave chopped pepper tops, zucchini, onion, garlic, oil, tomato paste, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes.
2. Mash bread, milk, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper into paste in large bowl using fork. Stir in pepper mixture, Monterey Jack, rice, and Parmesan. Add sausage and knead with hands until well combined. Divide filling evenly among bell peppers, mounding slightly.
3. Pour ⅓ cup water into slow cooker. Place stuffed peppers upright in slow cooker. Cover and cook until peppers are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
4. Using tongs and slotted spoon, transfer peppers to serving dish; discard cooking liquid. Sprinkle with basil and extra Parmesan. Serve.
Mexican Meatballs with Chorizo and Rice
A mixture of spicy chorizo and ground beef plus a binder of instant white rice deliver tender and flavorful meatballs.
SERVES 4 TO 6
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Albondigas en chipotle is a classic Mexican dish that features a smoky, spicy, chipotle chile–infused tomato sauce and tender meatballs. Usually the meatballs also contain rice as the binder, so the trick here was to figure out how to make ultraflavorful meatballs whereby the rice became supertender and melded into the meat, and the meatballs themselves were also tender and perfectly cooked. First, we focused on the flavor and texture of our meatballs, which we wanted to have the kick and flavor of traditional albondigas. Instead of relying on a laundry list of spices, we turned to a commonly used Mexican ingredient with plenty of its own seasoning: Mexican chorizo. By substituting chorizo for a portion of the ground beef, we were able to quickly elevate our meatballs with spicy, rich flavor. We mixed milk and bread into a paste to form a panade. This was essential to ensure moisture and lightness in our meatballs. After trying many varieties of rice, both cooked and raw, we discovered that instant rice was the best option and turned out perfectly tender by the time the meatballs were finished cooking. To develop a rich sauce, we used a combination of tomato paste and canned diced tomatoes, which welcomed the deep, smoky flavors of the chipotle chile. The addition of red wine vinegar and brown sugar helped to balance the sauce with tart and sweet notes. Canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce was easy to use and provided additional heat, smokiness, and a bit of acidity. We braised the meatballs in the sauce for several hours, which not only tenderized the meatballs further but also infused the sauce with great flavor. Be sure to use instant rice (sometimes labeled minute rice); traditional rice takes much longer to cook and won’t work here.
1. Mash bread, milk, 1 teaspoon pepper, and ½ teaspoon salt into paste in large bowl using fork. Add chorizo, ground beef, and rice and knead with hands until well combined. Pinch off and roll mixture into 2-inch meatballs (about 16 meatballs).
2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown meatballs on all sides, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Add onion to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, garlic, oregano, chipotle, and cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth, tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, and bay leaf, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker. Cover and cook until meatballs are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Discard bay leaf. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
The key to cooking lean pork tenderloins in the slow cooker is the way we position them side by side.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cooking a lean roast like pork tenderloin in a slow cooker is tricky because it can quickly turn overcooked and dry. We discovered that nestling two tenderloins side by side, alternating the narrow and thicker ends, helped to insulate the meat and prevented it from overcooking. Once we had the method in hand, we developed the flavor, coating the pork with a teriyaki glaze made with equal parts sugar and soy sauce and seasoned with fresh ginger, garlic, and mirin. To ensure a properly clingy glaze, we simply thickened the sauce with some cornstarch before applying it to the pork, and then we ran the tenderloins under the broiler before serving. To prevent the pork from overcooking under the broiler, we removed it from the slow cooker just shy of 145 degrees. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Because they are cooked gently and not browned, the tenderloins will be rosy throughout. Check the tenderloins’ temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until they register 145 degrees.
1. Combine soy sauce, sugar, mirin, ginger, and garlic in slow cooker. Nestle tenderloins into slow cooker, side by side, alternating thicker end to thinner end. Cover and cook until pork registers 145 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Transfer tenderloins to aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Transfer cooking liquid to small saucepan and bring to simmer over medium heat. Whisk cornstarch and water together in bowl, then whisk into cooking liquid and simmer until thickened, 3 to 5 minutes.
3. Liberally brush tenderloins with glaze and broil until spotty brown on top, about 5 minutes. Transfer tenderloins to carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice tenderloins ¼ inch thick, then transfer to serving dish. Drizzle with remaining glaze and sprinkle with scallions and sesame seeds. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Natural Versus Enhanced Pork
Because modern pork is so lean and therefore somewhat bland and prone to dryness if overcooked, many producers now inject their fresh pork products with a sodium solution. So-called enhanced pork is now the only option at many supermarkets, especially when buying lean cuts like the tenderloin. (You can determine the difference by reading the label; if the pork has been enhanced it will have an ingredient list.) Enhanced pork is injected with a solution of water, salt, sodium phosphates, sodium lactate, potassium lactate, sodium diacetate, and varying flavor agents, generally adding 7 to 15 percent extra weight. While enhanced pork does cook up juicier (it has been pumped full of water!), we find the texture almost spongy, and the flavor is often unpleasantly salty. We prefer the genuine pork flavor of natural pork and rely on brining to keep it juicy. Also, enhanced pork loses six times the moisture that natural pork loses when frozen and thawed—yet another reason to avoid enhanced pork.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to make succulent pork tenderloin with warm spices and an easy side dish—all in the slow cooker. First, we seasoned the pork with fragrant spice. Instead of a laundry list of spices, we used garam masala (an Indian spice blend) for complex flavor. Once the pork was cooked, we repurposed the potent cooking liquid to make couscous. We simply stirred the couscous into the slow cooker along with some raisins, and 15 minutes later we had a richly flavored couscous salad, which we finished with some sliced almonds. An easy fresh parsley vinaigrette rounded out the flavors of the spiced pork and couscous. Be sure to use regular (or fine-grain) couscous; large-grain couscous, often labeled “Israeli-style,” takes much longer to cook and won’t work in this recipe. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Because they are cooked gently and not browned, the tenderloins will be rosy throughout. Check the tenderloins’ temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until they register 145 degrees.
1. Combine broth and half of garlic in slow cooker. Sprinkle tenderloins with garam masala and season with salt and pepper. Nestle tenderloins into slow cooker, side by side, alternating thicker end to thinner end. Cover and cook until pork registers 145 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Transfer tenderloins to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while finishing couscous. Measure out and reserve 1 cup cooking liquid; discard remaining liquid. Combine reserved liquid, couscous, and raisins in now-empty slow cooker. Cover and cook on high until couscous is tender, about 15 minutes. Fluff couscous with fork, then stir in almonds.
3. Whisk oil, parsley, vinegar, and remaining garlic together in bowl, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice tenderloins ¼ inch thick and serve with couscous and vinaigrette.
SERVES 4 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this simple braised pork tenderloin, we turned to Provence for inspiration, pairing this lean cut with a robust ratatouille. Traditionally, ratatouille is a labor of love, with many recipes demanding that each vegetable be cooked separately for the perfect texture. We found that the slow cooker eliminated much of this fussy preparation with just a little up-front prep. Broiling the eggplant, zucchini, and aromatics together before adding them to the slow cooker ensured browned and flavorful vegetables with no excess water. The flavor of fresh tomatoes was far too muted after slow cooking, so we opted for a can of crushed tomatoes, which added the perfect combination of tomato pieces and flavorful sauce needed to braise our tenderloins. We stirred in a tablespoon of olive oil, along with peppery fresh basil, to brighten and enrich the finished dish. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Because they are cooked gently and not browned, the tenderloins will be rosy throughout. Check the tenderloins’ temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until they register 145 degrees.
1. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Toss eggplant, zucchini, and onion with 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, tomato paste, thyme, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Spread vegetable mixture evenly over aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and broil until softened and spotty brown, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir tomatoes into slow cooker. Season tenderloins with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker, side by side, alternating thicker end to thinner end. Cover and cook until pork registers 145 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
3. Transfer tenderloins to carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Stir basil and remaining 1 tablespoon oil into ratatouille and season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice tenderloins ¼ inch thick and serve with ratatouille.
Smothered Pork Chops with Onions and Bacon
These pork chops have a lush, bacon-infused sauce that rivals any made on the stovetop.
SERVES 4 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This Southern staple promises fork-tender chops covered in a rich, oniony gravy. For our slow-cooker take on smothered chops, bone-in blade-cut chops were the perfect choice because they contain a good amount of fat and connective tissue that help them stay tender and juicy during hours of braising. We started by rendering chopped bacon, which helped create a savory foundation for our sauce. We then sautéed onions, garlic, and some thyme in the fat before adding a little flour and some chicken broth, which gave us the makings for a full-bodied gravy. To further boost the gravy’s flavor, we added some soy sauce (for an extra bit of meatiness) and just a little brown sugar. We livened up the finished gravy with a splash of cider vinegar and a tablespoon of minced parsley. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Cook bacon in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Add onions and cook until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir soy sauce, sugar, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Cut 2 slits about 2 inches apart through fat on edges of each pork chop. Season chops with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
3. Transfer chops to serving dish, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Discard bay leaves. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in vinegar and parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over chops and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Blade-Cut Pork Chops
Pork chops come from the loin of the pig and can be cut into blade chops, rib chops, center-cut chops, and sirloin chops. Cut from the shoulder end of the loin, blade chops are the toughest cut—but they are also the fattiest, juiciest, and most flavorful. We put the slow cooker to work to cook these chops gently until they are tender. Look for bone-in chops with plenty of dark meat and good marbling.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Pork and fruit are a natural combination, but fresh fruit in a slow cooker is a dicey proposition unless you are using it just for flavor. So since we wanted the fruit to play a starring role alongside the pork, we turned to dried fruit, along with applesauce, to make a simple fruit compote for our slow-cooker pork chops. Balanced with shallots, brown sugar, and vinegar, plus a cinnamon stick, this lively compote was packed with flavor. This recipe was a snap to make—the only prep work was cutting the apricots and mincing the shallots. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Combine applesauce, apricots, cherries, shallots, sugar, vinegar, bay leaves, and cinnamon stick in slow cooker. Cut 2 slits about 2 inches apart through fat on edges of each pork chop. Season chops with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Transfer chops to serving dish, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Discard bay leaves and cinnamon stick. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in parsley and season with salt, pepper, and extra vinegar to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over chops and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
Braised Pork Chops with Campfire Beans
Molasses, ketchup, and liquid smoke infuse meaty blade steaks and pinto beans with deep smoky flavor.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Beans are a classic accompaniment to pork dishes, and we wanted to complement our meaty pork chops with a side of hearty barbecued beans. To create a deeply flavored sauce, we used a small amount of ketchup and molasses for the necessary sweetness and viscosity, then amped up the flavor with onion, chili powder, and liquid smoke. Canned pinto beans turned creamy and tender in the slow cooker as they absorbed the smoky flavor of the sauce and helped to braise the chops. We chose blade-cut pork chops, which contain a good amount of fat and connective tissue that help them stay tender and juicy during hours of braising. To really wake up the flavor of the beans before serving, we stirred in cider vinegar and Dijon mustard for a hit of piquant freshness. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, chili powder, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in beans, ketchup, molasses, and liquid smoke.
2. Cut 2 slits about 2 inches apart through fat on edges of each pork chop. Season chops with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
3. Transfer chops to serving dish, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Transfer 1 cup beans to bowl and mash with potato masher until mostly smooth. Stir mashed beans, vinegar, mustard, and scallions into remaining beans, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chops with beans.
PREVENTING CURLED PORK CHOPS
Pork chops—especially thin-cut chops—have a tendency to buckle and curl as they cook. To prevent this, cut two small slits, about 2 inches apart, into the fat and connective tissue on the edges of each chop.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS BARBECUED SPARERIBS
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
For fall-off-the-bone-tender barbecued pork spareribs with grilled flavor, we started by covering the ribs with a dry spice rub for deep flavor. To fit two racks of spareribs into the slow cooker, we cut them in half and stood the racks upright around the slow cooker’s perimeter, overlapping them slightly. We found that leaving the membrane coating the underside of the ribs attached helped hold the racks together as they cooked Once the ribs were fully tender, we transferred them to a wire rack set in a baking sheet, brushed them with a simple pantry barbecue sauce, and broiled them to develop a lightly charred exterior. Avoid buying ribs labeled “spareribs”; their large size and irregular shape make them unwieldy in a slow cooker. St. Louis–style spareribs are smaller and more uniform in size. You can substitute an equal amount of baby back ribs; reduce the cooking time to 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high. You will need an oval slow cooker for these recipes.
1 CLASSIC BARBECUED SPARERIBS
1. Combine paprika, sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, cayenne, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 tablespoon pepper in bowl. Pat ribs dry with paper towels; rub with spice mixture.
2. Arrange ribs upright in slow cooker, with thick ends pointing down and meaty sides against wall (ribs will overlap). Cover and cook until ribs are just tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
3. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet; coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer ribs meaty side up to prepared rack; let sit until surface is dry, about 10 minutes.
4. Whisk ketchup, molasses, mustard, vinegar, and liquid smoke together in bowl. Brush ribs with half of sauce; broil until sauce is bubbling and beginning to char, about 5 minutes. Brush ribs with remaining sauce, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut ribs in between bones to separate. Serve.
2 SWEET AND SOUR BARBECUED SPARERIBS
1. Combine 1 tablespoon ginger, two-thirds of garlic, allspice, 2 teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Pat ribs dry with paper towels; rub with spice mixture.
2. Arrange ribs upright in slow cooker, with thick ends pointing down and meaty sides against wall (ribs will overlap). Cover and cook until ribs are just tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
3. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet; coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer ribs meaty side up to prepared rack; let sit until surface is dry, about 10 minutes.
4. Whisk pineapple preserves, ketchup, sugar, vinegar, soy sauce, pepper flakes, remaining 1 tablespoon ginger, and remaining garlic together in bowl until sugar is dissolved. Brush ribs with half of sauce; broil until sauce is bubbling and beginning to char, about 5 minutes. Brush ribs with remaining sauce, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut ribs in between bones to separate. Serve.
3 SPICY MUSTARD BARBECUED SPARERIBS
1. Combine 2 tablespoons sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, cumin, cayenne, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Pat ribs dry with paper towels; rub with spice mixture.
2. Arrange ribs upright in slow cooker, with thick ends pointing down and meaty sides against wall (ribs will overlap). Cover and cook until ribs are just tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
3. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet; coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer ribs meaty side up to prepared rack; let sit until surface is dry, about 10 minutes.
4. Whisk mustard, vinegar, hot sauce, Worcestershire, ½ teaspoon pepper, and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar together in bowl until sugar is dissolved. Brush ribs with half of sauce; broil until sauce is bubbling and beginning to char, about 5 minutes. Brush ribs with remaining sauce, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut ribs in between bones to separate. Serve.
4 CHINESE BARBECUED SPARERIBS
1. Combine five-spice powder, 1½ teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper in bowl. Pat ribs dry with paper towels; rub with spice mixture.
2. Arrange ribs upright in slow cooker, with thick ends pointing down and meaty sides against wall (ribs will overlap). Cover and cook until ribs are just tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
3. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet; coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer ribs meaty side up to prepared rack; let sit until surface is dry, about 10 minutes.
4. Whisk hoisin, honey, sugar, soy sauce, ketchup, sherry, oil, ginger, and garlic together in bowl until sugar is dissolved. Brush ribs with half of sauce; broil until sauce is bubbling and beginning to char, about 5 minutes. Brush ribs with remaining sauce, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut ribs in between bones to separate. Serve.
5 FIESTA BARBECUED SPARERIBS
1. Combine 2 tablespoons sugar, chili powder, cumin, coriander, garlic powder, and 2 teaspoons salt in bowl. Pat ribs dry with paper towels; rub with spice mixture.
2. Arrange ribs upright in slow cooker, with thick ends pointing down and meaty sides against wall (ribs will overlap). Cover and cook until ribs are just tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
3. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet; coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer ribs meaty side up to prepared rack; let sit until surface is dry, about 10 minutes.
4. Whisk chili sauce, jalapeños, cilantro, lime zest and juice, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar together in bowl until sugar is dissolved. Brush ribs with half of sauce; broil until sauce is bubbling and beginning to char, about 5 minutes. Brush ribs with remaining sauce, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut ribs in between bones to separate. Serve.
For the crispy edges that are the hallmark of this Chinese favorite, we broil the meat with extra sauce after cooking it.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a slow-cooker version of the Chinatown favorite char siu, we started with a boneless pork butt cut into 1-inch-thick steaks. After seasoning the meat with five-spice powder, we “braised” it to tenderness. A coating of quick, no-cook sauce and a few minutes under the broiler rendered this pork glazed, crispy, deeply browned, and intensely delicious. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket.
1. Combine ¾ teaspoon five-spice powder, salt, and pepper in bowl. Rub pork with spice mixture and arrange in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is just tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray. Whisk hoisin, honey, sugar, soy sauce, ketchup, sherry, oil, ginger, garlic, and remaining ¾ teaspoon five-spice powder together in bowl.
3. Transfer pork to prepared rack; discard cooking liquid. Brush pork with one-third of sauce and broil until lightly caramelized, about 10 to 15 minutes, flipping and brushing pork with more sauce halfway through broiling. Brush pork with remaining sauce and broil until deep mahogany and crispy around edges, about 3 minutes. Transfer pork to cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. Slice pork crosswise into thin strips and serve.
PREPARING FRESH GINGER
1. To quickly peel knob of ginger, hold it firmly against cutting board and use edge of teaspoon to scrape away thin, brown skin.
2. To grate ginger, peel just small section of large piece of ginger, then grate peeled portion using rasp-style grater, using unpeeled ginger as handle to keep your fingers safely away from grater.
3. For smashed coins of ginger, slice peeled knob of ginger crosswise into coins, then use corner of heavy pan (or mallet) to gently smash ginger and release its flavor.
Pad thai is surprisingly easy to make in a slow cooker, with the noodles added at the end to soak up the sauce.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Great pad thai should feature clean, fresh, not-too-sweet flavors, perfectly cooked noodles, and plenty of tender protein—not exactly a dish you would expect to come completely out of the slow cooker. But this recipe achieves just that. For our slow-cooker version, we began by considering the appropriate protein to include. Most recipes include shrimp and egg, but we decided to sidestep tradition in favor of boneless country-style pork ribs, which could take full advantage of the slow-cook time and yield tender, flavorful meat. Braising the pork in a combination of chicken broth, fish sauce, sugar, and tamarind juice created a distinct pad thai flavor profile. Blooming the aromatics (scallion whites, garlic, and a chile) in toasted sesame oil before adding them to the slow cooker elevated the flavors even further. Perfectly cooked noodles were next, and we found the simplest solution was best. After removing the pork from the slow cooker, we placed the noodles in the remaining braising liquid and let them rehydrate for 20 minutes. To complete the dish, we returned the pork, now shredded into 1-inch pieces, to the slow cooker along with bean sprouts, scallion greens, cilantro, and peanuts for added freshness and crunch. Tamarind juice concentrate can be found at Asian markets as well as in the international food aisle of many supermarkets. Look for tamarind juice concentrate manufactured in Thailand, which is thinner and tastes brighter than the paste concentrate produced in other countries. If you can’t find it, substitute 1½ tablespoons lime juice and 1½ tablespoons water, and omit the lime wedges. Look for country-style pork ribs with lots of fat and dark meat, and stay away from ribs that look overly lean with pale meat, as they will taste very dry after the extended cooking time.
1. Microwave oil, scallion whites, garlic, and serrano in bowl, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, sugar, tamarind juice, and 2 tablespoons fish sauce.
2. Season pork with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
3. Transfer pork to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks. Nestle noodles into cooking liquid left in slow cooker, cover, and cook on high until tender, 20 to 30 minutes.
4. Add pork to noodles and gently toss to combine. Let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Add bean sprouts, scallion greens, vinegar, and remaining 1 tablespoon fish sauce and toss to combine. Sprinkle with cilantro and peanuts. Serve with lime wedges.
SERVES 6 TO 8 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this recipe, we wanted to develop complexity without having to spend time browning meat and aromatics and grinding a heap of hard-to-find dried New Mexican chiles. In the end, we ditched stovetop browning in favor of seasoning the pork with soy sauce. (The sauce was so flavorful that we didn’t miss the 20 to 30 minutes we would have spent browning the meat.) We softened the onion and bloomed the spices in the microwave, avoiding any stovetop prep altogether. We replicated the taste of dried chiles by using a combination of raisins, brewed coffee, and smoky chipotle chiles in adobo sauce. And finally, we pureed the sauce in a blender with just enough liquid and thickener to form a sauce that would coat the meat like a blanket. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. Serve with Basmati Rice Pilaf and/or warm corn tortillas.
1. Microwave onions, chili powder, garlic, oil, chipotle, oregano, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Transfer onion mixture to blender and process with broth, coffee, flour, raisins, and soy sauce until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of blender jar as needed; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Season pork with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
3. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in cilantro and lime zest and juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
During the long cooking time, the pork becomes infused with bright citrus flavor and earthy spice notes.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To achieve a slow-cooker version of this Mexican pulled pork dish, we had to make some adjustments to compensate for the moist environment of the slow cooker. We cut pork shoulder into chunks and combined the meat with onion, orange zest and juice, lime zest and juice, garlic, ground cumin, oregano, and hefty amounts of salt and pepper. As the meat cooked, it released just the right amount of liquid to help it braise and become pull-apart tender. To get the characteristic crispiness of the dish, we turned to the stovetop and a nonstick skillet. We mashed the pork pieces, added them to the hot skillet along with some of the intensely flavorful juices, and cooked the mixture until the pork began to fry and turn crispy. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. Do not overtrim the pork; this extra fat is essential for keeping the pork moist and helping it brown when sautéed in step 3. Serve with sour cream, chopped onion, chopped cilantro, thinly sliced radishes, and/or lime wedges.
1. Combine pork, onion, orange zest and juice, lime zest and juice, garlic, cumin, oregano, 2½ teaspoons salt, 1½ teaspoons pepper, and bay leaves in slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to large bowl. Using potato masher, smash pork until coarsely shredded. Strain cooking liquid into separate bowl; discard solids.
3. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add pork to skillet. Whisk cooking liquid to recombine, then add 1 cup to skillet with pork. Cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has evaporated and pork is evenly browned and crisp in spots, 10 to 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer pork to serving dish and moisten with remaining cooking liquid as needed. Serve with tortillas.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Juicing Lemons and Limes
We’ve tried countless methods and gizmos for juicing lemons and limes and have dismissed most of them. However, we do endorse rolling lemons vigorously on a hard surface before slicing them open to be juiced. Why? Rolling a lemon on a hard surface bruises, breaks up, and softens the rind’s tissues as it also tears the membranes of the juice vesicles (the tear-shaped juice sacs), filling the inside of the lemon with juice before it is cut and squeezed. Once the lemon is rolled, we recommend either a wooden reamer or a juicer, which we have found to be especially easy and fast, and equally effective. However you squeeze lemon or lime juice, we strongly recommend that you do so at the last minute; our testing has proven that the flavor mellows quickly and the juice will taste bland in a short time.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Weeknight tacos are usually limited to quick-cooking fillings like ground beef, but the slow cooker makes it easy to use cuts like pork butt that take several hours to turn tender. We wanted to make easy pulled pork tacos and pair them with a rich mole sauce. Traditionally mole requires an extensive list of ingredients to develop its complex flavor, but we simplified our version by relying on pantry staples like chili powder, cumin, and chipotle chiles. Canned tomato sauce added acidity, and raisins gave us just the right sweetness. Once the pork was cooked through, we quickly blended the sauce to give it the perfect consistency. A little lime juice and cilantro at the end balanced the flavors and completed the dish. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. Serve with sour cream, chopped onion, chopped cilantro, thinly sliced radishes, and/or lime wedges.
1. Combine tomato sauce, raisins, chili powder, cumin, chipotle, and garlic in slow cooker. Season pork with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to large bowl. Using potato masher, smash pork until coarsely shredded; cover to keep warm.
3. Process cooking liquid in blender until smooth, about 1 minute. Adjust sauce consistency with hot water as needed. Stir in cilantro and lime juice, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss pork with 1 cup sauce. Serve pork with tortillas, passing remaining sauce separately.
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make authentic North Carolina pulled pork, with its succulent, smoky meat and tangy vinegar-based sauce, we began by smothering a pork butt roast with a sweet and spicy dry rub of brown sugar, paprika, chili powder, cumin, salt, and pepper. For smokiness we cooked the pork with smoked ham hocks, which we then shredded along with the roast. Reducing the defatted cooking liquid to a concentrated 1 cup on the stovetop, then stirring in cider vinegar, ketchup, more sugar, and liquid smoke, led to the perfect balance of tangy, sweet, and smoky flavors in the finished barbecue sauce. Note that this sauce is fairly thin compared to gooey molasses-based sauces. Don’t shred the meat too fine in step 2; it will break up more as the meat is combined with the sauce. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. Serve on soft buns with pickle chips.
1. Combine 3 tablespoons sugar, paprika, chili powder, cumin, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 tablespoon pepper in bowl. Rub pork with spice mixture and arrange in even layer in slow cooker along with ham hocks. Pour broth over pork. Cover and cook until pork is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
2. Transfer pork and ham hocks to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces; discard fat, skin, and bones. Transfer pork to large bowl and cover to keep warm.
3. Strain cooking liquid into fat separator and let sit for 5 minutes; discard solids. Bring defatted liquid to simmer in saucepan over medium heat and cook until thickened and measures 1 cup, 20 to 30 minutes. Whisk in vinegar, ketchup, liquid smoke, and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss pork with 1½ cups sauce and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
SIMPLE SIDES
SWEET AND TANGY COLESLAW
SERVES 4
If you don’t have a salad spinner, use a colander to drain the cabbage, pressing out the excess moisture with a rubber spatula. This recipe can be easily doubled.
1. Whisk vinegar, oil, celery seeds, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in medium bowl. Place bowl in freezer and chill until dressing is cold, at least 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in large bowl, toss cabbage with sugar and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and microwave until cabbage is just beginning to wilt, about 1 minute. Stir briefly, cover, and continue to microwave until cabbage is partially wilted and has reduced in volume by one-third, 30 to 60 seconds.
3. Transfer cabbage mixture to salad spinner and spin until excess water is removed, 10 to 20 seconds. Remove bowl from freezer, add cabbage mixture, carrot, and parsley to cold dressing, and toss to coat. Season with salt, pepper, vinegar, and sugar to taste. Refrigerate until chilled, about 15 minutes. Toss coleslaw again before serving.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Nobody likes to be stuck in the kitchen on game day, so we wanted to develop a recipe for brats and beer that would simmer in the slow cooker while we enjoyed the party. To make sure the bratwurst had plenty of flavor, we stirred a mixture of savory soy sauce, punchy Dijon mustard, caraway seeds, and a little balancing brown sugar into the slow cooker. Onions were also a must; we microwaved them briefly to ensure that they were fully tender by the time the brats were cooked through. As the bratwurst cooked, the flavors in the pot melded, giving us rich, juicy sausage and flavorful onions. For the finishing touch, we stirred some tangy sauerkraut into the onion mixture to round out the dish. Light-bodied American lagers, such as Budweiser, work best for this recipe. We prefer pouched sauerkraut, sold near the pickles in most supermarkets, to jarred or canned varieties. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Microwave onions and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Nestle sausage into slow cooker. Whisk beer, mustard, soy sauce, sugar, and caraway together in bowl, then pour over sausage and onions. Cover and cook until sausage is tender, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Transfer sausage to cutting board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while finishing onion mixture. Stir sauerkraut into slow cooker and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Strain onion-sauerkraut mixture, discarding cooking liquid, and transfer to bowl. Cut bratwurst into 2-inch pieces. Serve bratwurst on rolls with onion-sauerkraut mixture and extra mustard.
Street Fair Sausages with Peppers and Onions
No need to stand at the grill when you can make these tender sausages, peppers, and onions in your slow cooker.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a fun and easy meal, we used the slow cooker to make superflavorful peppers and onions together with perfectly cooked Italian sausage. First, we jump-started the vegetables in the microwave to ensure that they’d cook through, then we added them to the slow cooker and nestled in raw Italian sausages. To season the vegetables as they cooked, we used a potent mixture of chicken broth, tomato paste, and garlic. As they simmered, the peppers and onions absorbed the flavors of the sausage and braising liquid. Once the sausages were cooked through, all we needed to do was strain the peppers and onions and pile them high on sub rolls with the tender, juicy sausages. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Microwave peppers, onions, tomato paste, oil, and garlic in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth. Nestle sausage into slow cooker, cover, and cook until sausage is tender, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Transfer sausage to cutting board. Strain pepper-onion mixture, discarding cooking liquid, and transfer to bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cut sausage into 2-inch pieces. Serve sausage on rolls with pepper-onion mixture.
Braised Lamb Shanks with Bell Peppers and Harissa
Once the lamb shanks are meltingly tender, we strain the sauce and process it in a blender with harissa and vinegar.
SERVES 6 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Lamb shanks are made for braising in a slow cooker. We found that browning the shanks before braising added complex, roasted flavors. What gives this dish its unique character is the combination of slow-cooked bell peppers, which we gave a head start on the stovetop along with some aromatics and the Tunisian condiment harissa—a potent blend of ground chiles, garlic, and spices. Chicken broth served as a perfect mild medium in which to meld the rich flavors of the lamb, the sweetness of the peppers, and the aromas of the harissa. To keep our sauce clean and light, we made sure to trim our shanks of all visible fat before cooking, and we defatted the cooking liquid after braising. To add richness and more flavor to the sauce, we ran the braised vegetables through the blender with the cooking liquid, and finished with mint for freshness. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Pat lamb shanks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of shanks on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to large plate. Repeat with remaining shanks; transfer to plate.
2. Add bell peppers, onion, and 1 teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until vegetables are softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in 3 tablespoons harissa, tomato paste, and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth and bay leaves, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Nestle lamb shanks into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until lamb is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
4. Transfer shanks to serving dish, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while finishing sauce. Discard bay leaves. Strain cooking liquid into fat separator, reserving solids, and let sit for 5 minutes. Process defatted liquid, reserved solids, vinegar, and remaining 2 tablespoons harissa in blender until smooth, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 cup sauce over shanks and sprinkle with mint. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Harissa
Harissa is a North African chili paste that’s used as a condiment and as an ingredient. It’s potent, so just a dollop adds a jolt of bright, spicy flavor to everything from soups and stews to sautéed vegetables and fried eggs. Harissa is always made with some combination of hot and/or mild chiles, garlic, and oil and often includes aromatic spices like cumin, coriander, and caraway. We recommend two products. Our top scorer, Mina Harissa, Spicy, packs a fiery, garlicky punch that is perfect for heat-seekers. Those who shy away from heat will enjoy our runner-up, the sweeter, milder Les Moulins Mahjoub Traditional Harissa Spread.
For a vindaloo sauce with just the right luxurious body, we found that adding a little instant tapioca was key.
SERVES 6 TO 8 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With roots in India, this classic dish is a natural for the slow cooker, combining slowly simmered lamb with a rich tomato-based sauce perfumed with paprika, cumin, cardamom, and cayenne. We chose a hearty boneless lamb shoulder roast for this recipe, and it remained tender and juicy during the extended cooking time. A hefty amount of spices is key in this dish, but too much produced a chalky texture. Instead, we bloomed the spices with the aromatics so we could use a more moderate amount. Some sugar and red wine vinegar also enhanced the flavors of the dish.
1. Microwave onions, oil, paprika, garlic, tomato paste, cumin, cardamom, and cayenne in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir tomatoes and their juice, broth, tapioca, vinegar, bay leaves, and sugar into slow cooker. Season lamb with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until lamb is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
3. Discard bay leaves. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Adjust consistency with hot water as needed. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SIMPLE SIDES
COUSCOUS
Toast couscous (see chart below for amounts and serving sizes) with extra-virgin olive oil in skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until couscous is lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes; transfer to medium bowl. Stir in boiling water, cover, and let sit until couscous is tender, about 12 minutes. Fluff with fork and season with salt and pepper to taste.
| Serves | Couscous | Extra-Virgin Olive Oil | Boiling Water |
| 4 | 1½ cups | 2 tablespoons | 2 cups |
| 6 | 2¼ cups | 2 tablespoons | 3 cups |
| 8 | 3 cups | 3 tablespoons | 4 cups |
| 10 | 3¾ cups | 4 tablespoons | 5 cups |
CHAPTER 5
Herbed Chicken with Warm Spring Vegetable Salad ■
Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Black Bean Salad ■
MAKE IT 5 WAYS: CHICKEN IN A POT
Barbecue-Rubbed Chicken in a Pot ■
Thai-Spiced Chicken in a Pot ■
Harissa-Spiced Chicken in a Pot ■
Turkey Breast with Cherry-Orange Sauce ■ ■
Roast Beef with Hearty Mushroom Gravy
Roast Beef with Warm Garden Potato Salad
Classic Pot Roast with Carrots and Potatoes ■
Corned Beef and Cabbage Dinner ■ ■
Cuban Pork Roast with Mojo Sauce ■
Pork Loin with Dried Fig Compote ■
Pork Loin with Warm Spiced Chickpea Salad ■
Pork Loin with Fennel, Oranges, and Olives ■
SIMPLE SIDES
■ EASY PREP
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
Herbed Chicken with Warm Spring Vegetable Salad
A creamy dill sauce made with mayonnaise and yogurt plus a splash of red wine vinegar enhance this vegetable salad.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A fantastic method for making a whole “roast” chicken in the slow cooker comes in handy year-round. This flavorful recipe features a juicy whole chicken and crunchy, vibrant spring vegetables. A simple aromatic mixture of oil, shallot, garlic, and thyme was the perfect way to give the chicken layers of flavor. We rubbed the mixture under the skin to give it direct contact with the meat while it cooked. We placed the chicken breast side down into the slow cooker to keep the breast meat moist during cooking, and then we scattered seasoned radish halves around the chicken, which allowed for the chicken and the radishes to cook evenly in the same amount of time. While the chicken rested before carving, we stirred fresh sugar snap peas into the braised radishes in the slow cooker and cooked on high until the snap peas were crisp-tender yet still vibrant. A creamy dill dressing was the perfect flavorful accompaniment to our spring vegetable salad. Check the chicken’s temperature after 4 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until the breast registers 160 degrees and the thighs register 175 degrees. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Microwave 3 tablespoons oil, shallot, three-quarters of garlic, thyme, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly.
2. Using your fingers, gently loosen skin covering breast and thighs of chicken. Place half of oil mixture under skin, directly on meat in center of each side of breast and on thighs. Gently press skin to distribute oil mixture over meat. Rub entire exterior surface of chicken with remaining oil mixture. Place chicken, breast side down, into slow cooker.
3. Toss radishes with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in clean bowl, then arrange around chicken. Cover and cook until breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Transfer chicken to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while finishing vegetables. Stir snap peas into slow cooker, cover, and cook on high until crisp-tender, about 20 minutes.
5. Whisk yogurt, mayonnaise, dill, vinegar, sugar, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and remaining garlic together in large bowl. Using slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to bowl with dressing and toss to coat; discard cooking liquid. Season salad with salt and pepper to taste. Carve chicken, discarding skin if desired. Serve with radish salad and lemon wedges.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this flavorful chicken recipe, we started with a Southwestern-inspired spice rub. We rubbed the mix under the skin to give it direct contact with the meat while it cooked. A simple black bean salad seemed like the perfect accompaniment to our chicken. Combining the beans with some chipotle chile and cooking them along with the chicken allowed the beans to absorb some of the chicken’s juices and become even more flavorful and tender. While the chicken rested, we drained the beans and tossed them with bell pepper, corn, sliced scallions, lime juice, and olive oil to finish the salad. Check the chicken’s temperature after 4 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until the breast registers 160 degrees and the thighs register 175 degrees. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Microwave 2 teaspoons oil, cumin, and paprika in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Let spice mixture cool slightly, then stir in lime zest, sugar, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
2. Using your fingers, gently loosen skin covering breast and thighs of chicken. Place half of spice mixture under skin, directly on meat in center of each side of breast and on thighs. Gently press skin to distribute spice mixture over meat. Rub entire exterior surface of chicken with remaining spice mixture.
3. Combine beans and chipotle in slow cooker. Place chicken, breast side down, on top of beans. Cover and cook until breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Transfer chicken to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
5. Drain beans and transfer to large bowl. Stir in bell pepper, corn, scallions, lime juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Carve chicken, discarding skin if desired. Serve with bean salad.
CARVING A WHOLE CHICKEN
1. Using chef’s knife, remove leg quarters by cutting through joint that connects leg to carcass.
2. Cut through joint that connects drumstick to thigh.
3. Cut breast meat away from breastbone. Remove wing from breast by cutting through wing joint, then slice breasts crosswise.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Canned Black Beans
Most canned black beans have just three main ingredients: beans, water, and salt. So how different could they taste? Plenty different, we found out when 22 of our test cooks and editors sampled six nationally available products—three of them organic—in a blind taste test. Tasters sampled them plain (drained and rinsed) and in a test kitchen recipe for black bean soup. Our winning product was Bush’s Best Black Beans. Tasters appreciated the “clean,” “mild,” and “slightly earthy” flavor of these beans, and several specifically called out their “good salt level.” They liked the plain beans’ “firm,” “almost al dente” texture. In the soup, the beans were especially “creamy.”
MAKE IT 5 WAYS CHICKEN IN A POT
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
Making a perfectly cooked whole chicken in a slow cooker is actually much easier than it sounds. We started by blooming a simple mixture of oil and aromatics in the microwave because we found it was the perfect way to give the chicken layers of flavor. Once the mixture was cool enough to handle, we then rubbed a portion of it under the skin to give it direct contact with the meat while it cooked, and massaged the remaining mixture directly onto the skin, coating the entire bird. Placing the chicken in the slow cooker upside down was key: As the meat rendered its juices and fat, they traveled over and through the breast (which can be notoriously dry), helping to maintain moistness. Additionally, as the juices pooled in the bottom of the cooker, they submerged the breast, enabling it to retain more moisture. Check the chicken’s temperature after 4 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until the breast registers 160 degrees and the thighs register 175 degrees. You will need an oval slow cooker for these recipes.
1 LEMON-HERB CHICKEN IN A POT
1. Microwave oil, shallot, garlic, thyme, lemon zest, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Let oil mixture cool slightly, then stir in 1 tablespoon tarragon.
2. Using your fingers, gently loosen skin covering breast and thighs of chicken. Place half of oil mixture under skin, directly on meat in center of each side of breast and on thighs. Gently press on skin to distribute oil mixture over meat. Rub entire exterior surface of chicken with remaining oil mixture. Place chicken, breast side down, into slow cooker. Cover and cook until breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 4 to 5 hours on low.
3. Transfer chicken to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Carve chicken, discarding skin if desired. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon tarragon. Serve with lemon wedges.
2 BARBECUE-RUBBED CHICKEN IN A POT
1. Microwave oil, chili powder, paprika, cumin, garlic powder, mustard, and cayenne in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Let oil mixture cool slightly, then stir in sugar, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper.
2. Using your fingers, gently loosen skin covering breast and thighs of chicken. Place half of oil mixture under skin, directly on meat in center of each side of breast and on thighs. Gently press on skin to distribute oil mixture over meat. Rub entire exterior surface of chicken with remaining oil mixture. Place chicken, breast side down, into slow cooker. Cover and cook until breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 4 to 5 hours on low.
3. Transfer chicken to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Carve chicken, discarding skin if desired. Serve.
3 THAI-SPICED CHICKEN IN A POT
1. Microwave oil, shallot, curry paste, ginger, garlic, and lime zest in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Let oil mixture cool slightly, then stir in sugar, 1 tablespoon cilantro, fish sauce, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper.
2. Using your fingers, gently loosen skin covering breast and thighs of chicken. Place half of oil mixture under skin, directly on meat in center of each side of breast and on thighs. Gently press on skin to distribute oil mixture over meat. Rub entire exterior surface of chicken with remaining oil mixture. Place chicken, breast side down, into slow cooker. Cover and cook until breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 4 to 5 hours on low.
3. Transfer chicken to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Carve chicken, discarding skin if desired. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon cilantro. Serve with lime wedges.
4 HARISSA-SPICED CHICKEN IN A POT
1. Microwave oil, garlic, paprika, coriander, 1½ teaspoons salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, pepper flakes, cumin, and caraway in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly.
2. Using your fingers, gently loosen skin covering breast and thighs of chicken. Place half of oil mixture under skin, directly on meat in center of each side of breast and on thighs. Gently press on skin to distribute oil mixture over meat. Rub entire exterior surface of chicken with remaining oil mixture. Place chicken, breast side down, into slow cooker. Cover and cook until breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 4 to 5 hours on low.
3. Transfer chicken to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Carve chicken, discarding skin if desired. Sprinkle with mint and serve.
5 PESTO CHICKEN IN A POT
1. Process basil, garlic, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in food processor until finely ground, about 30 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. With processor running, slowly add oil and process until smooth, about 30 seconds.
2. Using your fingers, gently loosen skin covering breast and thighs of chicken. Place half of pesto under skin, directly on meat in center of each side of breast and on thighs. Gently press on skin to distribute pesto over meat. Rub entire exterior surface of chicken with remaining pesto. Place chicken, breast side down, into slow cooker. Cover and cook until breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 4 to 5 hours on low.
3. Transfer chicken to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest 20 minutes. Carve chicken, discarding skin in desired. Serve.
APPLYING A RUB
1. Separate skin from breast and thighs using your fingers.
2. Apply half of rub under skin; press on skin to distribute. Apply remaining rub on exterior of chicken.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Poultry Safety and Handling
It’s important to follow some basic safety procedures when storing, handling, and cooking chicken, turkey, and other poultry.
REFRIGERATING Keep poultry refrigerated until just before cooking. Bacteria thrive at temperatures between 40 and 140 degrees. This means leftovers should also be promptly refrigerated.
FREEZING AND THAWING Poultry can be frozen in its original packaging or after repackaging. If you are freezing it for longer than two months, rewrap (or wrap over packaging) with foil or plastic wrap, or place inside a zipper-lock bag. You can keep poultry frozen for several months, but after two months the texture and flavor will suffer. Don’t thaw frozen poultry on the counter; this puts it at risk of growing bacteria. Thaw it in its packaging in the refrigerator (in a container to catch its juices), or in the sink under cold running water. Count on one day of defrosting in the refrigerator for every 4 pounds of bird.
HANDLING RAW POULTRY When handling raw poultry, make sure to wash hands, knives, cutting boards, and counters (and anything else that has come into contact with the raw bird, its juices, or your hands) with hot, soapy water. Be careful not to let the poultry, its juices, or your unwashed hands touch foods that will be eaten raw. When seasoning raw poultry, touching the saltshaker or pepper mill can lead to cross-contamination. To avoid this, set aside the necessary salt and pepper before handling the poultry.
RINSING The U.S. Department of Agriculture advises against washing poultry. Rinsing poultry will not remove or kill much bacteria, and the splashing of water around the sink can spread the bacteria found in raw poultry.
COOKING AND LEFTOVERS Poultry should be cooked to an internal temperature of 160 degrees to ensure any bacteria have been killed (however, we prefer the flavor and texture of thigh meat cooked to at least 175 degrees). Leftover cooked poultry should be refrigerated and consumed within three days.
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We often think of turkey as being reserved for big holiday dinners, but some hands-off cooking in the slow cooker makes turkey breast a weeknight-friendly dinner. The bone-in turkey breast is prep free, and the gentle heat of the slow cooker produces juicy and tender meat every time. For a fresh accompaniment to our “roast” turkey, a cherry-orange sauce seemed like the perfect choice. To keep it simple, we started with frozen cherries, which we chopped, then added orange zest and a little thyme for aroma. By the time the turkey was fully cooked, the cherries were tender and the juices of the turkey had melded with the aromatics to create a flavorful sauce. To give it a thicker consistency, we added a small amount of instant tapioca. Many supermarkets are now selling “hotel-cut” turkey breasts, which still have the wings and rib cage attached. If this is the only type of breast you can find, you will need to remove the wings and cut away the rib cage with kitchen shears before proceeding with the recipe. Check the turkey’s temperature after 5 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until the breast registers 160 degrees. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Combine cherries, orange zest, tapioca, thyme, and ¼ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Season turkey with salt and pepper and place skin side up into slow cooker. Cover and cook until breast registers 160 degrees, 5 to 6 hours on low.
2. Transfer turkey to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
3. Discard orange zest. Whisk apple butter, butter, and lemon juice into cherry mixture until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Carve turkey and discard skin. Serve with sauce.
This slow-cooker recipe delivers moist and tender turkey and cooking liquid that is easily strained and turned into gravy.
SERVES 8 TO 10 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS No one will ever guess that this dinner-table classic was turned out of a slow cooker as you serve up moist slices of turkey drizzled with a rich brown gravy. But it takes a little advance work (and a skillet) to get it right. We found that it was possible to skip the cumbersome step of browning the turkey breast, but to get a real gravy, we still needed the skillet to build a proper flavor base and make a roux. First we browned the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Then we added flour and cooked it until golden brown, deglazing the pan with water. Added to the slow cooker with the turkey and chicken broth and white wine, this base mingled with the juice released as the turkey cooked, resulting in a hearty gravy. Many supermarkets are now selling “hotel-cut” turkey breasts, which still have the wings and rib cage attached. If this is the only type of breast you can find, you will need to remove the wings and cut away the rib cage with kitchen shears before proceeding with the recipe. Check the turkey’s temperature after 5 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until the breast registers 160 degrees. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add onion, carrot, celery, and garlic and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in water, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir broth, wine, thyme sprigs, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Season turkey with salt and pepper and place skin side up into slow cooker. Cover and cook until breast registers 160 degrees, 5 to 6 hours on low.
3. Transfer turkey to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
4. Strain cooking liquid into saucepan; discard solids. Bring to simmer over medium heat and cook until thickened, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Carve turkey and discard skin. Serve with gravy.
CARVING A TURKEY BREAST
1. Cut down along 1 side following curvature of breastbone, pulling breast meat away from bone as you cut. Continue to cut and pry until breast has been removed.
2. Cut breast meat crosswise into thin slices for serving.
SERVES 8 TO 10
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The eye-round roast, an ultra-lean cut of beef, is perfectly suited to the low-and-slow heat of a slow cooker, which turns this otherwise tough cut tender. For an evenly cooked, medium-rare roast from the slow cooker, we first salted the roast overnight, browned it well in a skillet, and then built a gravy in the same pan. Cremini mushrooms formed the base of the gravy, along with onion, tomato paste, flour, and beef broth. To boost the mushroom flavor, we added potent porcini mushrooms. Look for an eye-round roast that is uniformly shaped to ensure even cooking. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the roast’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare). We prefer this roast cooked to medium-rare, but if you prefer to cook it to medium, cook the roast until it registers 130 to 135 degrees. Note that the roast needs to rest for at least 18 hours after salting.
1. Sprinkle roast with 4 teaspoons salt. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 18 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. Pat roast dry with paper towels, rub with 1 tablespoon oil, and season with pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roast on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add cremini mushrooms, onion, and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until vegetables are softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, flour, thyme, and porcini mushrooms and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps. Pour broth mixture over roast, cover, and cook until beef registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 1 to 2 hours on low.
4. Transfer roast to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
5. Whisk butter, parsley, and any accumulated meat juices into gravy. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice beef thin against grain. Serve with gravy.
SIMPLE SIDES
CLASSIC MASHED POTATOES
SERVES 4
For the smoothest mashed potatoes, use a food mill or a potato ricer. This recipe can be easily doubled.
1. Place potatoes in large saucepan and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring water to boil, then reduce to simmer and cook until potatoes are tender and paring knife can be inserted into potatoes with no resistance, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Drain potatoes in colander, tossing to remove any excess water. Wipe now-empty saucepan dry with paper towels. Return potatoes to pot and mash to uniform consistency, or process through food mill or ricer and return to dry pot.
3. Using rubber spatula, fold in melted butter until just incorporated, then fold in half-and-half. Adjust consistency with extra hot half-and-half as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Roast Beef with Warm Garden Potato Salad
After searing this eye-round roast, we slow-cook it for 1 to 2 hours, along with the potatoes, for juicy, medium-rare beef.
SERVES 8 TO 10
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A juicy roast beef and potato dinner is always inviting and surprisingly well suited for the slow cooker. A quick sear in a skillet before transferring to the slow cooker gave the roast a flavorful dark crust before cooking all the way through. We cooked the roast at a low temperature, giving it a moist, even doneness and rosy color from edge to center. We gave the potatoes a head start in the microwave so they could finish cooking through perfectly in the slow cooker in the same time as the roast. However, to keep the green beans bright and crisp-tender, we kept them out of the slow cooker and briefly steamed them in the microwave. Look for an eye-round roast that is uniformly shaped to ensure even cooking. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the roast’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare). We prefer this roast cooked to medium-rare, but if you prefer to cook it to medium, cook the roast until it registers 130 to 135 degrees. Note that the roast needs to rest for at least 18 hours after salting.
1. Sprinkle roast with 4 teaspoons salt. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 18 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. Microwave potatoes, 1 tablespoon oil, and ½ teaspoon salt in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until almost tender, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Pat roast dry with paper towels. Rub with 1 tablespoon oil, sprinkle with garlic powder, and season with pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roast on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes. Place roast on top of potatoes, cover, and cook until beef registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 1 to 2 hours on low.
4. Transfer roast to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
5. Microwave green beans and ¼ cup water in large covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain green beans and return to now-empty bowl. Drain potatoes and transfer to bowl with green beans.
6. Whisk remaining ¼ cup oil, parsley, shallot, vinegar, mustard, chives, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper together in small bowl. Pour dressing over vegetables and gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice beef thin against grain. Serve with potato salad.
This classic brisket recipe will feed a crowd, getting its big flavor from an overnight spice rub and lots of sliced onions.
SERVES 10 TO 12 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Brisket is a tough cut of meat and needs prolonged cooking to make it tender, which, of course, is just what the slow cooker does best. To avoid browning the brisket and still achieve loads of flavor we opted to use a dry rub—consisting of paprika, onion powder, salt, garlic powder, and cayenne—on the brisket and let the flavors mingle for at least 8 hours. To complement the spice rub, we sautéed onions with brown sugar, tomato paste, and garlic, achieving a deep, rich, caramelized flavor. Thickened with a little flour and finished with a bit of vinegar, the slightly sweet onion sauce paired perfectly with the meltingly tender brisket. Be sure to buy the brisket “first cut” or “flat cut,” not “point cut,” which is thicker and fattier. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Note that the roast needs to rest for at least 8 hours after seasoning.
1. Combine paprika, onion powder, 1 teaspoon salt, garlic powder, and cayenne in bowl. Using fork, prick brisket all over. Rub spice mixture over brisket, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir 2 tablespoons vinegar, sugar, thyme sprigs, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Unwrap brisket and nestle fat side up into slow cooker. Spoon portion of onion mixture over brisket. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Transfer brisket to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
5. Discard thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in remaining 1 teaspoon vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice brisket against grain into ½-inch-thick slices and arrange on serving dish. Spoon 1 cup sauce over brisket and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
SERVES 10 TO 12 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make a tender and moist barbecued brisket with robust spice and smoke flavor, we started out with a simple spice rub, often the hallmark of great barbecue. Salt, pepper, brown sugar, cumin, and paprika provided the backbone of flavor, while chipotle chiles lent a smoky dimension. To allow the rub to penetrate the meat we pierced the brisket all over with a fork and then refrigerated it overnight. Though brisket releases flavorful juices during cooking (used for serving), we wanted to bump up the flavors even more. We microwaved onions, more chipotles, tomato paste, garlic, and chili powder and added them to the slow cooker, along with a little water. The resulting braising liquid was sweet, smoky, and spicy; all we needed to do to finish the sauce was stir in ketchup, vinegar, and liquid smoke. Be sure to buy the brisket “first cut” or “flat cut,” not “point cut,” which is thicker and fattier. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Note that the roast needs to rest for at least 8 hours after seasoning.
1. Combine sugar, 2 tablespoons chipotle, cumin, paprika, 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 teaspoons pepper in bowl. Using fork, prick brisket all over. Rub sugar mixture over brisket, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours.
2. Microwave onions, tomato paste, garlic, oil, chili powder, and remaining 1 tablespoon chipotle in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water. Unwrap brisket and nestle fat side up into slow cooker. Spoon portion of onion mixture over brisket. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
3. Transfer brisket to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
4. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Whisk in ketchup, vinegar, and liquid smoke. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice brisket against grain into ½-inch-thick slices and arrange on serving dish. Spoon 1 cup sauce over brisket and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Beef Brisket
When buying brisket, be aware that butchers typically sell two types: flat cut and point cut. These two pieces together make up a full brisket, a large slab of muscle from the cow’s chest. The knobby point cut (above) overlaps the rectangular flat cut (below). The point cut has more marbling, while the flat cut is lean but topped with a thick fat cap. Because the flat cut (sometimes labeled “first cut”) is easy to find, cheap, and fairly uniform in shape, it’s the cut we generally prefer. Make sure to trim the fat cap according to the instructions in whatever recipe you are using.
Classic Pot Roast with Carrots and Potatoes
We break a large chuck-eye roast into smaller roasts and brown them for the ultimate slow-cooker pot roast.
SERVES 8 TO 10 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The slow, even, moist heat of the slow cooker is perfect for creating a delicious fork-tender pot roast. We wanted a pot roast that had classic flavors and that was easy to assemble. We started with chuck-eye roast—our favorite cut for pot roast because it’s well marbled with fat and connective tissue—and tied it around the center to help it cook more evenly. We found that pulling apart a large roast at the natural seam to make two smaller roasts (2 to 2½ pounds each) yielded fork-tender meat more consistently than cooking a single large roast. Searing the meat in a skillet first before transferring to the slow cooker proved crucial in developing the ultimate rich and savory pot roast flavor we wanted. Enhancing the cooking broth with classic aromatics like onion, celery, thyme, and garlic also gave the braising liquid some serious flavor. To make this roast into a hearty meal, we arranged small unpeeled potatoes and carrot pieces into the slow cooker before adding the roasts. This ensured the roasts would cook evenly as their juices were released, and the roasts submerged in their own flavorful liquid. We cooked the roasts until they were perfectly tender and our sauce had great body and flavor. Use small Yukon Gold potatoes measuring 1 to 2 inches in diameter; if your potatoes are larger, cut them into 1-inch pieces to ensure that they cook through properly.
1. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Tie 3 pieces of kitchen twine around each piece of beef to create 2 evenly shaped roasts. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roasts on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.
2. Add onion, celery, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until vegetables are softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, garlic, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in wine and broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir potatoes, carrots, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Nestle roasts into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Transfer roasts to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
5. Discard bay leaves. Transfer vegetables to serving dish and tent loosely with foil. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste.
6. Remove twine from roasts, slice meat against grain into ½-inch-thick slices, and arrange on serving dish with vegetables. Spoon 1 cup sauce over meat and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
TYING A POT ROAST
1. Pull roast apart at major seams (delineated by lines of fat) into 2 halves, using knife as needed. Remove large knobs of fat from each piece, leaving thin layer of fat on meat.
2. Tie 3 pieces of kitchen twine around each piece of beef to create 2 evenly shaped roasts.
SERVES 8 TO 10 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A slow cooker, with its slow, even, and moist heat, is the perfect environment for braising a pot roast until fork-tender. We put an Italian spin on this pot roast with the addition of red wine, oregano, tomatoes, red pepper flakes, and dried porcini mushrooms. To get loads of flavor into our pot roast we first browned the meat, then sautéed some bacon and aromatics. Deglazing the skillet with wine helped capture all the flavorful browned bits. Boneless chuck-eye roast was our favorite cut for this dish, and we found that dividing a larger roast into two smaller ones (2 to 2½ pounds each) yielded fork-tender meat more consistently than cooking the roast whole.
1. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Tie 3 pieces of kitchen twine around each piece of beef to create 2 evenly shaped roasts. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roasts on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.
2. Add bacon to now-empty skillet and cook over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to slow cooker. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet.
3. Add onions and carrots to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic, mushrooms, oregano, tomato paste, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
4. Stir tomatoes, broth, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Nestle roasts into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
5. Transfer roasts to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
6. Discard bay leaves. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste.
7. Remove twine from roasts, slice meat against grain into ½-inch-thick slices, and arrange on serving dish. Spoon 1 cup sauce over meat and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
Corned Beef and Cabbage Dinner
The arrangement of meat and vegetables in the slow cooker is the key to this one-pot corned beef dinner.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In the States, corned beef and cabbage is rarely eaten outside of St. Patrick’s Day—and maybe for good reason. When traditionally boiled, the meat often comes out salty and dry, and the vegetables are usually overcooked and bland. We wanted to use the steady, gentle heat of the slow cooker to get moist, tender corned beef and perfectly cooked vegetables. Placement of the ingredients in the slow cooker turned out to be the key to success. We put the meat in first, sprinkled the seasoning (pickling spice) over it, and placed the potatoes and carrots between the meat and the wall of the slow cooker. This arrangement gave us enough room to be able to add the cabbage at the get-go, rather than at the end of cooking. Avoid buying a cabbage larger than 1½ pounds; it will be hard to fit into the slow cooker. Use red potatoes measuring about 2 inches in diameter. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Place brisket into slow cooker and sprinkle with pickling spice. Arrange potatoes and carrots between meat and sides of slow cooker. Arrange cabbage over meat. Add 6 cups water to slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
2. Turn off slow cooker. Transfer brisket to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Cover slow cooker to keep vegetables warm while beef rests.
3. Slice brisket against grain into ½-inch-thick slices and arrange on serving dish. Using slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to dish with beef. Dot vegetables with butter. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Pickling Spice
Jarred pickling spice typically includes a combination of whole and coarsely crushed spices such as bay leaves, cardamom, cinnamon, allspice, mustard seeds, cloves, coriander, and ginger, offering a whole lot of flavor in just one jar.
If you can’t find pickling spice at the supermarket, you can make your own. Combine 1 cinnamon stick, broken into pieces, 2 tablespoons mustard seeds, 1 tablespoon peppercorns, 2 teaspoons allspice berries, 2 bay leaves, crushed, and 2 whole cloves. Makes about ¼ cup.
SERVES 8 TO 10 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Pork butt roast is a great candidate for braising in the slow cooker—its fat and connective tissue break down over the long cooking time, resulting in tender, silky meat. For our pot roast we found that halving a large roast to make two smaller roasts (2 to 2½ pounds each) yielded fork-tender meat more consistently and in less time than cooking a larger whole roast. To get enough flavor into our dish, we browned the roasts first, then browned onions deeply, along with tomato paste and more aromatics, which gave the sauce a meaty foundation. And since we had our skillet out, we decided to make a roux to thicken the sauce and deglazed the pan with a little white wine. We paired the rich pork with sweet and hearty root vegetables (carrots and parsnips) and diced tomatoes. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket.
1. Pat pork dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Tie 3 pieces of kitchen twine around each piece of pork to create 2 evenly shaped roasts. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roasts on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.
2. Add onions, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until onions are softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, tomato paste, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir tomatoes, carrots, parsnips, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Nestle roasts into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until pork is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Transfer roasts to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
5. Discard bay leaves. Using slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to serving dish and tent loosely with foil. Strain sauce into fat separator, reserving solids, and let sit for 5 minutes. Combine reserved solids, defatted sauce, and vinegar in bowl, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
6. Remove twine from roasts, slice meat against grain into ½-inch-thick slices, and arrange on serving dish with vegetables. Spoon 1 cup sauce over meat and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
Apple cider, apple butter, and cider vinegar ensure this braised pork roast is infused with apple flavor.
SERVES 8 TO 10 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Whether it’s apple wood–smoked bacon or pork chops served with applesauce, pork and apples are a classic combination. With this in mind, we set out to create a slow-cooker recipe for a pork roast that would slowly braise in a cider-based sauce and result in a tender roast infused with sweet-tart cider flavor. We started with pork butt—our favorite for low, slow cooking. Searing the meat built a flavorful and appealing deep golden crust and created valuable fond in the skillet that added flavor to our sauce. A small amount of flour added body and thickness to our sauce, while equal parts apple cider and apple butter finished out the sauce and provided the sweet apple flavor we wanted to complement our roast. A touch of cider vinegar added punch, creating the perfect cider sauce to accompany our pork. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket.
1. Pat pork dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Tie 3 pieces of kitchen twine around each piece of pork to create 2 evenly shaped roasts. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roasts on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.
2. Add onion and ½ teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until onion is softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, and thyme sprigs and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in apple cider, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir apple butter and bay leaves into slow cooker. Nestle roasts into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until pork is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Transfer roasts to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
5. Strain sauce into fat separator and let sit for 5 minutes; discard solids. Combine defatted sauce and vinegar in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove twine from roasts, slice meat against grain into ½-inch-thick slices, and arrange on serving dish. Spoon 1 cup sauce over meat and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
Cuban Pork Roast with Mojo Sauce
A spiced, citrusy sauce livens up this rich Caribbean-inspired pork roast with little effort.
SERVES 8 TO 10 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Boldly spiced slow-cooked meats are classic Caribbean fare, and Cuban slow-roasted pork is one of the best examples. Traditionally the pork is marinated in a flavorful mixture of citrus, garlic, and spices and cooked over a fire. We wanted to bring it indoors with a no-fuss slow-cooker version featuring tender, flavorful meat and a bracing garlic-citrus sauce. Well-marbled pork shoulder was our cut of choice; it turned meltingly tender in the slow cooker. To ensure that it cooked evenly, we cut the roast into two smaller roasts and tied them to ensure they retained a more uniform shape. To keep our prep time short, we skipped the lengthy marinating and simply cooked the roast in an aromatic mixture of orange juice, onion, chipotle, oregano, cumin, and garlic. To re-create the tart Cuban mojo sauce, we combined a portion of the pork cooking liquid with olive oil, orange juice, and a healthy dose of vinegar. With its citrusy spiced sauce and rich, tender pork, this dish will liven up any weeknight. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket.
1. Pat pork dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Tie 3 pieces of kitchen twine around each piece of pork to create 2 evenly shaped roasts. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roasts on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.
2. Add onion, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until onion is softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in oregano, cumin, and two-thirds of garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in water, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir orange zest and ¼ cup juice and chipotle into slow cooker. Nestle roasts into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until pork is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Transfer roasts to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
5. Strain cooking liquid into fat separator and let sit for 5 minutes; discard solids. Pour ¼ cup defatted liquid into bowl; discard remaining liquid. Whisk in vinegar, remaining ¼ cup oil, remaining garlic, remaining ¼ cup orange juice, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Remove twine from roasts and slice meat against grain into ½-inch-thick slices. Serve with sauce.
SIMPLE SIDES
CILANTRO RICE
SERVES 4
Basmati, jasmine, or Texmati rice can be substituted for the long-grain rice. A nonstick saucepan works best here, although a traditional saucepan will also work. This recipe can be easily doubled; increase broth to only 3¾ cups.
1. Process broth and cilantro leaves in blender until cilantro is finely chopped, about 15 seconds. Melt butter in large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add rice and cook, stirring often, until edges begin to turn translucent, about 3 minutes.
2. Stir in broth mixture and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and continue to simmer until rice is tender and water is absorbed, 16 to 18 minutes.
3. Off heat, lay clean folded dish towel underneath lid. Let sit for 10 minutes. Add minced cilantro and fluff rice with fork to incorporate. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 8 TO 10 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To put a Southwestern spin on a slow-cooker pork roast, we started with a well-marbled pork shoulder and seasoned it liberally with chili powder, oregano, salt, and pepper and quickly seared in the flavor for a well-browned crust before transferring to the slow cooker. We also added some of the spices to a mixture of canned tomato sauce and spicy chipotle chile to make a boldly flavored braising liquid. Cooking the onion and spices in rendered pork fat gave our sauce deeper, more complex flavors. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket.
1. Combine chili powder, oregano, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper in bowl. Pat pork dry with paper towels and rub with half of spice mixture. Tie 3 pieces of kitchen twine around each piece of pork to create 2 evenly shaped roasts. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roasts on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.
2. Add onions to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Stir in flour and remaining spice mixture and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in tomato sauce and chipotle, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Nestle roasts into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until pork is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Transfer roasts to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
5. Strain sauce into fat separator, reserving solids, and let sit for 5 minutes. Combine defatted sauce, reserved solids, and cilantro in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove twine from roasts, slice meat against grain into ½-inch-thick slices, and arrange on serving dish. Spoon 1 cup sauce over meat and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Roasts in the Slow Cooker
Simply placing a roast in the slow cooker and walking away isn’t likely going to give you the results you are after. Here are a few important tips to ensure your roasts are successful every time.
PICK THE RIGHT ROAST When selecting roasts for the slow cooker, our first choices are those that benefit the most from braising, namely the tougher, fattier roasts like beef chuck, beef brisket, and pork butt. These cuts are ideal for the slow cooker because low and slow cooking turns the meat meltingly tender after hours of cooking (when the collagen in the meat has broken down). Leaner roasts such as pork loin, whole chickens, and bone-in turkey breasts also work well, though they require a bit more attention to cooking time and temperature to turn out properly. To make sure these roasts remain moist, we cook them on low and monitor their temperature toward the end of cooking and take them out of the slow cooker as soon as they reach the desired temperature. Avoid premium cuts like beef tenderloin and rib-eye—they would be a waste of money. Save them for the grill or oven.
PAY ATTENTION TO POSITIONING In our testing, we learned that getting juicy roasts had a lot to do with how we positioned them in the slow cooker. Nestling two pork tenderloins side by side, alternating the narrow and thicker ends, helped to insulate the lean meat and prevent it from overcooking. Positioning larger roasts like brisket, pork loins, and turkey breasts fat and skin side up allowed more fat to render and baste the meat as it cooked. When it came to whole chickens, we found that the trick was to place them in the slow cooker breast side down. This allowed the fat from the legs and thighs to drip down onto the lean breast meat, and as the chicken released its juices the breast became partially submerged in the rendered fat and juices, which helped it to retain moisture.
SECURE POT ROASTS WITH TWINE Our favorite cuts for pot roast are beef chuck-eye roast and pork butt roast (also called Boston butt), because they are well marbled and become very tender over the long braising time. To ensure that they cook evenly, we tie them with kitchen twine to produce a more uniformly shaped roast that will cook through evenly.
SERVES 6 TO 8 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cooking a lean roast like a pork loin in a slow cooker is tricky because it can quickly turn overcooked and dry. So the key to this recipe is to monitor the temperature of the roast after a couple of hours and take it out of the slow cooker as soon as it reaches 140 degrees. Here our goal was to pair a tender pork loin with a rich fruit compote. To keep it simple, we used unsweetened applesauce as the base for our compote, then stirred in chopped dried figs. Minced shallot and balsamic vinegar added complexity and balanced the sweetness. As the pork cooked, the figs hydrated and thickened the compote, resulting in a rich, flavorful accompaniment. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. A wider, shorter pork loin (about 8 inches long) will fit best in the slow cooker. We found that leaving a ⅛-inch-thick layer of fat on top of the roast is ideal; if your roast has a thicker fat cap, trim it to be about ⅛ inch thick. Check the pork’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees.
1. Pat pork dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown pork on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes. Place pork, fat side up, into slow cooker.
2. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, shallot, and thyme to now-empty skillet and cook over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in applesauce, figs, 1 tablespoon vinegar, ¼ teaspoon salt, and bay leaves, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork registers 140 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
3. Transfer roast to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
4. Discard bay leaves. Stir remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar into compote and season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove twine from roast and slice meat into ½-inch-thick slices. Serve with compote.
Pork loin and maple are an ideal combo, and here we use a full cup of maple syrup as the base of the flavorful glaze.
SERVES 6 TO 8 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Working off the success of our Pork Loin with Dried Fig Compote, we decided to develop another recipe, this time pairing a perfectly juicy pork loin with a sweet, spiced maple glaze. Once again it was necessary to brown the loin first, for flavor and color. Then we used the skillet to sauté onion and bloom our spices (a mix of cinnamon, ground cloves, and cayenne) before stirring in a cup of maple syrup and some chicken broth to deglaze the pan, after which we transferred everything to the slow cooker. After cooking the loin, we reduced the braising liquid until it became a sticky, sweet glaze that paired perfectly with our juicy pork loin. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. A wider, shorter pork loin (about 8 inches long) will fit best in the slow cooker. We found that leaving a ⅛-inch-thick layer of fat on top of the roast is ideal; if your roast has a thicker fat cap, trim it to be about ⅛ inch thick. Check the pork’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees.
1. Pat pork dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roast on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes. Place pork, fat side up, into slow cooker.
2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in maple syrup and broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork registers 140 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
3. Transfer roast to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
4. Transfer cooking liquid to saucepan and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cook until thickened and measures 1¼ cups, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Remove twine from roast and slice meat into ½-inch-thick slices. Serve with glaze.
Pork Loin with Warm Spiced Chickpea Salad
The warm and colorful chickpea salad that accompanies this pork loin is infused with warm spices and is superflavorful.
SERVES 6 TO 8 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Inspired by the lively flavors of Moroccan cuisine, we set out to create a satisfying meal featuring moist pork and a warm-spiced salad. A combination of coriander, cumin, and cloves created an authentic and flavorful base for our side dish. Once the pork was done cooking, we let it rest while we finished our warm chickpea salad. We added dried apricots, roasted red peppers, and shallots at the end and allowed them to just warm through, keeping their flavors and textures distinct to balance the spice-infused chickpeas. A splash of vinegar and a generous sprinkling of mint rounded out the salad with bright freshness. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. A wider, shorter pork loin (about 8 inches long) will fit best in the slow cooker. We found that leaving a ⅛-inch-thick layer of fat on top of the roast is ideal; if your roast has a thicker fat cap, trim it to be about ⅛ inch thick. Check the pork’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees.
1. Pat pork dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roast on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.
2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add garlic, coriander, cumin, and cloves and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir chickpeas into slow cooker. Nestle roast, fat side up, into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until pork registers 140 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Transfer roast to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
5. Stir apricots, red peppers, and shallot into chickpea mixture and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in mint and vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove twine from roast and slice meat into ½-inch-thick slices. Serve with salad.
CUTTING CITRUS INTO PIECES
1. Slice off top and bottom of citrus, then cut away peel and pith using paring knife.
2. Cut citrus into wedges as directed in recipe. Working with 2 wedges at a time, slice into ½-inch-thick pieces.
Pork Loin with Fennel, Oranges, and Olives
Sprinkled with herbes de Provence and browned before slow cooking, this pork loin has a beautiful crust and great flavor.
SERVES 6 TO 8 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Fennel, oranges, and olives are a classic Mediterranean combination that we wanted to pair with a tender pork loin roast. After quickly searing the roast to give it a deep color and more satisfying flavor, we sautéed fennel until softened and deglazed the pan with white wine before transferring the mixture and pork to the slow cooker. While the roast rested, we stirred orange segments and chopped kalamata olives into the fennel. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. A wider, shorter pork loin (about 8 inches long) will fit best in the slow cooker. We found that leaving a ⅛-inch-thick layer of fat on top of the roast is ideal; if your roast has a thicker fat cap, trim it to be about ⅛ inch thick. Check the pork’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees.
1. Pat pork dry with paper towels, sprinkle with herbes de Provence, and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roast on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.
2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add fennel and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker. Nestle roast, fat side up, into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until pork registers 140 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
3. Transfer roast to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes.
4. Cut away peel and pith from oranges. Cut oranges into 8 wedges, then slice wedges crosswise into ½-inch-thick pieces. Stir oranges and zest and olives into fennel mixture and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in tarragon and season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Remove twine from roast and slice meat into ½-inch-thick slices. Serve with fennel-orange mixture.
Once our ham is cooked all the way through, we glaze it with a mixture of brown sugar, mustard, and apple jelly.
SERVES 10 TO 12 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We’ve all seen beautifully bronzed hams emerge from the oven, so why not from the slow cooker? We lacquered hams with every thick, sticky, sugary coating we could think of, but every glaze slid right off during slow cooking. The glaze definitely needed to be applied after the ham was brought to temperature in the slow cooker. Our goal was to make a stovetop glaze that would have a thick, coating consistency without having to make a trip to the oven. Ultimately we found that equal parts dark brown sugar and apple jelly thickened with a tablespoon of cornstarch gave us the ideal consistency, along with some Dijon mustard and pepper for balancing zest. Do not substitute spiral-cut ham, as it dries out during slow cooking. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Remove skin from exterior of ham and trim fat to ¼-inch thickness. Score remaining fat at 1-inch intervals in crosshatch pattern. Place ham cut side down into slow cooker. Add 1 cup water, cover, and cook until fat is rendered and ham registers 100 degrees, 5 to 6 hours on low.
2. Bring sugar, jelly, mustard, cornstarch, and pepper to boil in small saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook, whisking often, until glaze begins to darken and is slightly thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Let glaze cool for 5 minutes.
3. Transfer ham to carving board, brush evenly with glaze, and let rest for 20 minutes. Carve ham and serve.
PREPARING GLAZED HAM
1. Using chef’s knife, remove tough skin or rind, then carefully trim fat to ¼-inch thickness.
2. Score remaining fat at 1-inch intervals in crosshatch pattern.
CHAPTER 6
Salmon with Mediterranean White Rice Salad ■
Chili-Garlic Glazed Salmon with Brown Rice Salad ■
MAKE IT 5 WAYS: POACHED SALMON
Poached Salmon with Avocado and Grapefruit Salsa ■
Poached Salmon with Tangerine and Ginger Salsa ■
Poached Salmon with Caper Relish ■
Poached Salmon with Creamy Chipotle Chile Sauce ■
Poached Salmon with Yogurt-Dill Sauce ■
Poached Swordfish with Warm Tomato and Olive Relish ■
Poached Swordfish with Papaya Salsa ■ ■
Stuffed Sole with Creamy Tomato Sauce
Moroccan Fish Tagine with Artichoke Hearts ■ ■
Halibut with Warm Bean Salad ■ ■
Scallops with Creamy Braised Leeks ■ ■
Shrimp with Spiced Quinoa and Corn Salad ■ ■
Spanish Braised Shrimp and Chorizo ■ ■
Shrimp and Green Chile Tacos ■
Shrimp Boil with Corn and Potatoes ■ ■
Thai Green Curry with Shrimp and Sweet Potatoes ■ ■
■ EASY PREP
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cooking salmon in the slow cooker was a hurdle we didn’t think we could overcome, but we had nailed the method (see Make it Five Ways Poached Salmon for more information) and now wanted to raise the bar even higher. What if we could create a beautifully moist salmon and perfectly cooked rice combo in the slow cooker? We first tried cooking long-grain rice with parchment on top (a trick we used previously with success), and then laying the salmon on top of that and hoping for the best. Although this technique didn’t work—we ended up with raw rice and cooked salmon—we knew the general ideas were solid. For our next attempt we cooked the rice for a few hours until mostly done, then added the salmon for the last little bit. While this worked, we were unhappy with the amount of time needed to tend to the dish. For our final trial, we switched to instant rice. Using this convenient ingredient, we found that we were able to cook both the rice and the salmon in the same amount of time, which was our original goal. Once we had our cooking method down pat, we turned to the flavors. Since we were keeping our salmon very simple, we knew that our rice needed some bold flavors to round out the meal. We decided on a Greek profile, using red wine vinegar, honey, garlic, and oregano as the base flavors for our vinaigrette. Once the rice was cooked, we then stirred cherry tomatoes, whole parsley leaves, feta, and vinaigrette into our rice. Look for salmon fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. Leave the skin on the salmon to keep the bottom of the fillets from overcooking and to make it easier to skin the fillets once done. Be sure to use instant rice (sometimes labeled minute rice); traditional rice takes much longer to cook and won’t work here. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount. Check the salmon’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 135 degrees.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine boiling water, rice, 1 tablespoon oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in prepared slow cooker. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of water, folding down edges as needed.
2. Season salmon with salt and pepper and arrange, skin side down, in even layer on top of parchment. Cover and cook until salmon is opaque throughout when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 135 degrees (for medium), 1 to 2 hours on low.
3. Using 2 metal spatulas, transfer salmon to serving dish; discard parchment and remove any white albumin from salmon. Whisk vinegar, honey, oregano, garlic, and remaining oil together in bowl. Fluff rice with fork, then gently fold in tomatoes, parsley, feta, and ½ cup vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle remaining vinaigrette over salmon and serve with salad and lemon wedges.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Salmon
Wild Versus Farmed Salmon In season, we’ve always preferred the more pronounced flavor of wild-caught salmon to that of farmed Atlantic salmon, traditionally the main farm-raised variety in this country. But with more wild and farmed species now available, we decided to reevaluate. We tasted three kinds of wild Pacific salmon and two farmed. While we love the stronger flavor of wild-caught fish, if you’re going to spend the extra money, make sure it looks and smells fresh, and realize that high quality is available only from late spring through the end of summer.
CUTS OF SALMON There are many ways to buy salmon, but our preference is for thick, center-cut fillets. Cut from the head end or center, these fillets are the prime cut of the fish. They are thick enough to poach without overcooking and are easy to skin (if desired). You will also see thin fillets at the market. Stay away from these. These are cut from the tail end and cook unevenly because one end is very, very thin while the other is always much thicker.
Chili-Garlic Glazed Salmon with Brown Rice Salad
Salmon cooks surprisingly well in the slow cooker, and with a few tricks you can cook rice at the same time.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a salmon and rice recipe with a distinctly Asian profile, we created a brown rice salad to go with a simple chili-glazed salmon. To keep things easy, we reserved half of the glaze to make a vinaigrette for our rice. We then stirred some orange segments and scallion greens into our rice salad to bolster our Asian theme. Look for salmon fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. Leave the skin on the salmon to keep the bottom of the fillets from overcooking and to make it easier to skin the fillets once done. Be sure to use instant rice (sometimes labeled minute rice); traditional rice takes much longer to cook and won’t work here. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount. Check the salmon’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 135 degrees.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine boiling water, rice, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in prepared slow cooker. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of water, folding down edges as needed.
2. Combine scallion whites, sesame oil, chili-garlic sauce, and honey in bowl; measure out and reserve half of scallion mixture in medium bowl until ready to use. Season salmon with salt and pepper, brush with remaining scallion mixture, and arrange, skin side down, in even layer on top of parchment. Cover and cook until salmon is opaque throughout when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 135 degrees (for medium), 1 to 2 hours on low.
3. Cut away peel and pith from oranges. Cut oranges into 8 wedges, then slice wedges crosswise into ½-inch-thick pieces. Using 2 metal spatulas, transfer salmon to serving dish; discard parchment and remove any white albumin from salmon. Whisk vinegar, ginger, and remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil into reserved scallion mixture. Fluff rice with fork, then gently fold in oranges (adding any accumulated juices), scallion greens, and half of vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve salmon with salad, passing remaining vinaigrette separately.
CREATING A PARCHMENT SHIELD
Press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper firmly onto rice or vegetables, folding down edges as needed.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS POACHED SALMON
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
A slow cooker is the perfect vehicle for poaching salmon, as it requires less monitoring than the classic stovetop method but yields comparable results with less chance of overcooking. To ensure success, we came up with a few tried-and-true techniques: a foil sling helped us with ease of removal once the fish was done, and elevating the fish on herb stems and citrus slices gave us more even cooking throughout. Each salmon dish uses its aromatics in two ways: as a base to elevate the fish, and as a component in the final sauce, salsa, or relish. Look for salmon fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. Leave the skin on the salmon to keep the bottom of the fillets from overcooking and to make it easier to skin the fillets once done. You will need an oval slow cooker for these recipes. Click here for more information on making a foil sling. Check the salmon’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 135 degrees.
1 POACHED SALMON WITH AVOCADO AND GRAPEFRUIT SALSA
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; press widthwise into slow cooker. Slice 1 grapefruit ¼ inch thick; arrange slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter cilantro stems over grapefruit slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with grapefruit slices (about ¼ cup). Season salmon with salt and pepper; arrange skin side down in even layer on top of cilantro stems. Cover and cook until salmon is opaque throughout when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 135 degrees (for medium), 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Cut away peel and pith from remaining grapefruit. Cut grapefruit into 8 wedges, then slice wedges crosswise into ½-inch-thick pieces. Combine grapefruit and any accumulated juices, minced cilantro, avocado, shallot, oil, vinegar, and honey in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Using sling, transfer salmon to baking sheet. Gently lift and tilt fillets with spatula to remove cilantro stems and grapefruit slices; transfer to serving dish. Discard poaching liquid and remove any white albumin from salmon. Serve with salsa.
2 POACHED SALMON WITH TANGERINE AND GINGER SALSA
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; press widthwise into slow cooker. Slice 1 tangerine ¼ inch thick; arrange slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter cilantro stems over tangerine slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with tangerine slices (about ¼ cup). Season salmon with salt and pepper; arrange skin side down in even layer on top of cilantro stems. Cover and cook until salmon is opaque throughout when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 135 degrees (for medium), 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Cut away peel and pith from remaining 3 tangerines. Cut tangerines into 8 wedges, then slice wedges crosswise into ½-inch-thick pieces. Combine tangerines and any accumulated juices, minced cilantro, oil, vinegar, and ginger in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Using sling, transfer salmon to baking sheet. Gently lift and tilt fillets with spatula to remove cilantro stems and tangerine slices; transfer to serving dish. Discard poaching liquid and remove any white albumin from salmon. Serve with salsa.
3 POACHED SALMON WITH CAPER RELISH
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; press widthwise into slow cooker. Arrange lemon slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter parsley stems and tarragon stems over lemon slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with lemon slices (about ¼ cup). Season salmon with salt and pepper; arrange skin side down in even layer on top of herb stems. Cover and cook until salmon is opaque throughout when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 135 degrees (for medium), 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Combine minced parsley, minced tarragon, shallot, capers, honey, vinegar, and oil in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Using sling, transfer salmon to baking sheet. Gently lift and tilt fillets with spatula to remove herb stems and lemon slices; transfer to serving dish. Discard poaching liquid and remove any white albumin from salmon. Serve with relish.
4 POACHED SALMON WITH CREAMY CHIPOTLE CHILE SAUCE
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; press widthwise into slow cooker. Arrange lime slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter cilantro stems over lime slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with lime slices (about ¼ cup). Season salmon with salt and pepper; arrange skin side down in even layer on top of cilantro stems. Cover and cook until salmon is opaque throughout when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 135 degrees (for medium), 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Whisk mayonnaise, sour cream, chipotle, garlic, lime juice, and minced cilantro together in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Using sling, transfer salmon to baking sheet. Gently lift and tilt fillets with spatula to remove cilantro stems and lime slices; transfer to serving dish. Discard poaching liquid and remove any white albumin from salmon. Serve with sauce.
5 POACHED SALMON WITH YOGURT-DILL SAUCE
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; press widthwise into slow cooker. Arrange lemon slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter dill stems over lemon slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with lemon slices (about ¼ cup). Season salmon with salt and pepper; arrange skin side down in even layer on top of dill stems. Cover and cook until salmon is opaque throughout when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 135 degrees (for medium), 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Whisk yogurt, garlic, lemon juice, minced dill, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in bowl. Stir in cucumber. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Using sling, transfer salmon to baking sheet. Gently lift and tilt fillets with spatula to remove dill stems and lemon slices; transfer to serving dish. Discard poaching liquid and remove any white albumin from salmon. Serve with sauce.
Poached Swordfish with Warm Tomato and Olive Relish
We poach swordfish steaks on a bed of lemon slices and parsley stems so they cook evenly in a flavorful cooking liquid.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Hearty swordfish steaks are a great option for gentle poaching in the slow cooker because the low heat renders the fish exceptionally tender. To keep the bottoms of the steaks from overcooking, we propped the steaks up on lemon slices. A Mediterranean-style tomato and olive relish dressed up our swordfish and added big flavor. Look for swordfish steaks of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. Halibut is a good substitute for swordfish. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the swordfish’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees.
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling and press widthwise into slow cooker. Arrange lemon slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter parsley stems over lemon slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with lemon slices (about ¼ cup). Season swordfish with salt and pepper and arrange in even layer on top of parsley stems. Cover and cook until swordfish flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Microwave tomatoes, olives, and garlic in bowl until tomatoes begin to break down, about 4 minutes. Stir in oil and minced parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Using sling, transfer swordfish to baking sheet. Gently lift and tilt steaks with spatula to remove parsley stems and lemon slices; transfer to serving dish. Discard poaching liquid and remove any white albumin from swordfish. Serve with relish.
MAKING A FOIL SLING
Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch rectangle and press it widthwise into slow cooker. Before serving, use edges of sling as handles to lift fish or other delicate items out of slow cooker fully intact.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Our method for poaching swordfish steaks delivers moist and tender fish every time, and while the cooking time is short, it still allows you some hands-off time to organize the rest of your dinner or just relax. And there are many ways to dress up these hearty steaks. Here, going with an island theme, we opted for a bright papaya salsa with sweet fruit, hot jalapeño, bright cilantro, and tangy lime juice. Look for swordfish steaks of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. Halibut is a good substitute for swordfish. If your papaya is underripe, season the salsa with sugar to taste. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil sling. Check the swordfish’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees.
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling and press widthwise into slow cooker. Arrange lime slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter cilantro stems over lime slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with lime slices (about ¼ cup). Season swordfish with salt and pepper and arrange in even layer on top of cilantro stems. Cover and cook until swordfish flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Combine papaya, jalapeño, oil, and lime zest and juice in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Using sling, transfer swordfish to baking sheet. Gently lift and tilt steaks with spatula to remove cilantro stems and lime slices; transfer to serving dish. Discard poaching liquid and remove any white albumin from swordfish. Serve with salsa.
PREPARING PAPAYA
1. Cut peeled papaya in half lengthwise and remove seeds with spoon.
2. Slice each half into evenly sized lengths, then cut lengths into pieces according to recipe.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying and Storing Fish
WHAT TO LOOK FOR Always buy fish from a trusted source (preferably one with high volume to help ensure freshness). The store, and the fish in it, should smell like the sea, not fishy or sour. And all the fish should be on ice or properly refrigerated. Fillets and steaks should look bright, shiny, and firm, not dull or mushy. Whole fish should have moist, taut skin, clear eyes, and bright-red gills.
WHAT TO ASK FOR It is always better to have your fishmonger slice steaks and fillets to order rather than buying precut pieces that may have been sitting around. Don’t be afraid to be picky at the seafood counter; a ragged piece of hake or a tail end of sea bass will be difficult to cook properly. If you have a long ride home, ask for a bag of ice.
BUYING FROZEN FISH Thin fish fillets like flounder and sole are the best choice if you have to buy your fish frozen, because they freeze quickly, minimizing moisture loss. Firm fillets like halibut, snapper, and swordfish are acceptable to buy frozen if cooked beyond medium-rare, but at lower degrees of doneness they will have a dry, stringy texture. When buying frozen fish, make sure it is frozen solid, with no signs of freezer burn or excessive crystallization. The ingredients list should include only the name of the fish you are buying.
DEFROSTING FISH To defrost fish in the refrigerator overnight, remove the fish from its packaging, place it in a single layer on a rimmed plate or dish (to catch any water), and cover it with plastic wrap. You can also do a “quick thaw” by leaving the vacuum-sealed bags under cool running tap water for 30 minutes. Do not use a microwave to defrost fish; it will alter the texture of the fish or, worse, partially cook it.
HOW TO STORE IT Because fish is so perishable, it’s best to buy it the day it will be cooked. If that’s not possible, unwrap the fish, pat it dry, put it in a zipper-lock bag, press out the air, and seal the bag. Then set the fish on a bed of ice in a bowl or other container (one that can hold the water once the ice melts) and place it in the back of the fridge, where it is coldest. If the ice melts before you use the fish, replenish it. The fish should keep for one day.
Stuffed Sole with Creamy Tomato Sauce
A filling of ricotta and frozen spinach and an easy blender tomato sauce make a company-worthy stuffed sole.
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS While it may seem implausible to create such a delicate dish in the slow cooker, we embraced the challenge. We poached the fish on top of lemon slices and basil stems, which imparted subtle flavor. And by rolling the fillets into bundles with a moist spinach filling, we reduced the likelihood of overcooking. Flounder is a good substitute for sole. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil sling. Be sure to squeeze the spinach dry thoroughly or the filling will be watery. Check the doneness of the sole after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it flakes apart when gently prodded with a paring knife.
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling and press widthwise into slow cooker. Arrange lemon slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter basil stems over lemon slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with lemon slices (about ¼ cup).
2. Combine spinach, ricotta, lemon zest, 2 tablespoons chopped basil, nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Season sole with salt and pepper and place skinned side up on cutting board. Mound filling evenly in center of fillets, fold tapered ends tightly over filling, then fold over thicker ends to make tidy bundles. Arrange bundles seam side down in even layer on top of basil sprigs. Cover and cook until sole flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife, 1 to 2 hours on low.
3. Process tomatoes, shallot, oil, and lemon juice in blender until smooth, about 2 minutes, scraping down sides of blender jar as needed. Strain sauce through fine-mesh strainer into bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible; discard solids. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Using sling, transfer sole bundles to baking sheet. Gently lift and tilt bundles with spatula to remove basil stems and lemon slices; transfer to serving dish. Discard poaching liquid and remove any white albumin from bundles. Spoon sauce over bundles and sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons basil. Serve.
MAKING SOLE BUNDLES
Divide spinach mixture equally among fillets, mounding in middle of each. Fold tapered end of sole tightly over filling, then fold thicker end over top to make tidy bundle.
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Inspired by a popular Mediterranean dish of grape-leaf-wrapped fish, we came up with a version for the slow cooker that was streamlined and easy to make. We usually blanch grape leaves to tenderize them, but here we opted to skip this step, hoping that the moist, slow heat of the slow cooker would tenderize the leaves. To our delight, this method worked, allowing us to cut out a tedious preparation step. Once we had our method down solid, we turned to flavor profile. Playing off the brininess of the grape leaves, we found a strong salsa verde to be the perfect counterpoint. Its herbaciousness and brininess picked up on the flavor of the grape leaves without clashing. Adding a little into our packets helped to season the fish nicely, and we reserved the rest to serve alongside the finished dish. We’ve had good luck using Peloponnese and Krinos brand grape leaves. Take care when handling the grape leaves; they can be delicate and tear easily. Larger grape leaves can be trimmed to 6 inches. If using smaller leaves (about 4 inches in diameter), use 40 leaves; overlap nine leaves to create a 9-inch circle. Look for cod fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil sling. Check the cod’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees. Haddock and hake are good substitutes for the cod.
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling and press widthwise into slow cooker. Arrange lemon slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter parsley and mint stems over lemon slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with lemon slices (about ¼ cup).
2. Pulse lemon zest, parsley leaves, mint leaves, oil, vinegar, capers, garlic, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in food processor until finely chopped (mixture should not be smooth), about 10 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Measure out and reserve ¼ cup salsa verde; transfer remaining salsa to bowl and refrigerate until ready to serve.
3. Reserve 24 intact grape leaves, roughly 6 inches in diameter; set aside remaining leaves for another use. Shingle 5 leaves smooth side down on counter into 9-inch circle, with stems pointing toward center of circle, then place 1 leaf smooth side down over opening in center. Place 1 fillet in center of leaf circle and spoon 1 tablespoon reserved salsa verde on top. Fold sides of leaf circle over cod, then fold up bottom of circle and continue to roll tightly into packet. Place packet seam side down on top of herb stems. Repeat with remaining grape leaves, fillets, and salsa, arranging packets in even layer.
4. Cover and cook until grape leaves are tender and cod registers 140 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low. Using sling, transfer packets to baking sheet. Gently lift and tilt packets with spatula to remove herb stems and lemon slices; transfer to serving dish. Discard poaching liquid. Serve cod packets with reserved salsa verde.
MAKING GRAPE LEAF PACKETS
1. Reserve 24 intact grape leaves, roughly 6 inches in diameter.
2. Shingle 5 leaves smooth side down into 9-inch circle, then place 1 leaf smooth side down over opening in center.
3. After placing fillet in center of leaf circle, fold sides over cod, then fold up bottom of circle and continue to roll tightly into packet.
A mix of bell peppers, onions, and aromatics makes a savory base for the cod, which also gets a simple tomato sauce.
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This sweet, simple fish dish is found all over the Mediterranean and highlights the fresh flavors of peppers, onions, and tomatoes. For our slow-cooker version of this dish we prepared the classic bell pepper base and added garlic, thyme, paprika, and wine for a deeper flavor. Thinly slicing the peppers and onions proved to be well worth the effort, as they cooked down to a soft, velvety consistency, while bigger slices still maintained some crunch and marred the smooth texture of the sauce. Once the sauce was prepared, we simply nestled the cod into the liquid and let the fish braise in the moist environment. We rounded out the peperonata with balsamic vinegar for a rich and slightly sweet finish. Look for cod fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the cod’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees. Haddock and hake are good substitutes for the cod.
1. Microwave bell peppers, onion, oil, tomato paste, garlic, paprika, thyme, pepper flakes, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir tomatoes and wine into slow cooker. Season cod with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Spoon portion of sauce over cod. Cover and cook until cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
3. Using 2 metal spatulas, transfer cod to serving dish. Stir basil and vinegar into sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over cod and drizzle with extra oil. Serve.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A nutty, Thai-inspired coconut sauce does wonders for lean, mild-flavored cod without requiring a lot of work. We combined coconut milk with fish sauce, ginger, garlic, and red pepper flakes for the slightest hint of heat. While cooking, the cod rested on top of a bed of edamame to prevent the bottom of the fish from overcooking. The nutty edamame base gave our meal the additional benefit of a side dish that soaked up the rich sauce. Look for cod fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the cod’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees. Haddock and hake are good substitutes for the cod.
1. Microwave shallots, garlic, ginger, oil, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until shallots are softened, about 2 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir edamame, coconut milk, and fish sauce into slow cooker. Season cod with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Spoon portion of sauce over cod. Cover and cook until cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Using 2 metal spatulas, transfer cod to serving dish. Stir cilantro and vinegar into edamame and season with extra fish sauce to taste. Spoon edamame and sauce over cod. Serve.
TUCKING THE TAIL
If you end up with a piece of fish with a thinner tail end, simply tuck the thinner end under before nestling it into the slow cooker so that it will cook at the same rate as the other pieces.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Coconut Milk
Widely available in cans, coconut milk adds rich flavor and body to soups, curries, and stir-fries. Coconut milk comes in both regular and light versions. Regular coconut milk is creamier than the light, but it also contains more fat. Do not confuse coconut milk with cream of coconut, which contains added sugar and is much sweeter. For savory recipes, we prefer Chaokoh brand coconut milk.
Moroccan Fish Tagine with Artichoke Hearts
This tagine is so delicious because the sauce and all the aromatics simmer for hours before you even add the fish.
SERVES 4 TO 6 LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Making a slow-cooker fish tagine with moist and tender cod, an aromatic broth, and perfectly cooked vegetables seemed like a tall order. Our testing revealed that if we built the brothy base of the tagine first and let it and the vegetables simmer for a few hours, all we needed to do was add the fish at the end of the cooking time so it could absorb the tagine’s flavors and poach gently until perfectly cooked through. The broth started with white wine, diced tomatoes, and chicken broth. Microwaving the onions and garlic with tomato paste and warm spices developed a complex Moroccan flavor for the tagine. We simmered this mixture with the artichoke hearts until the broth was deeply flavorful and the artichokes tender. Then we added the cod and allowed it to cook gently in the savory liquid for 30 minutes. Stirring in the olives with the cod allowed them to warm through and lightly flavor the broth. All the tagine needed was a sprinkle of fresh parsley to finish. Look for cod fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. While we prefer the flavor and texture of jarred whole baby artichokes, you can substitute 18 ounces frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry, for the jarred. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Haddock and hake are good substitutes for the cod.
1. Microwave onions, tomato paste, garlic, oil, garam masala, paprika, and cayenne in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in artichokes, broth, tomatoes, wine, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until flavors meld, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Stir cod and olives into tagine, cover, and cook on high until cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife, 30 to 40 minutes. Gently stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Kalamata Olives
Although kalamata olives are often packed in olive oil in their native Greece, on American soil we almost always find them swimming in a vinegary brine. We prefer the fresher kalamatas from the refrigerated section of the supermarket (also packed in brine) over the jarred, shelf-stable ones, which are bland and mushy in comparison. If you can’t find kalamatas in the refrigerator section of your market, look for them at the salad bar.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this healthy fish dinner we gently cooked meaty halibut fillets on a bed of creamy white beans flavored by shallot, lemon zest, and bay leaves. In the short time it took the fish to cook through perfectly, the beans absorbed the flavors of the cooking liquid. After removing the fish from the slow cooker, we finished our side dish by draining the beans and tossing them with a zesty dressing and green beans (which we steamed in the microwave, leaving them tender and not too crunchy). The final addition of briny kalamata olives paired well with fresh tarragon, intensifying the overall flavor of our dish. Look for halibut fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the halibut’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees. Sea bass is a good substitute for the halibut.
1. Stir white beans, ½ cup water, shallot, lemon zest, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Rub halibut with 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt and pepper. Nestle halibut into slow cooker. Cover and cook until halibut flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Microwave green beans with 1 tablespoon water in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain green beans and return to now-empty bowl. Whisk remaining 1 tablespoon oil, lemon juice, tarragon, mustard, and honey together in separate bowl.
3. Transfer halibut to serving dish; discard lemon zest and bay leaves. Drain white bean mixture and transfer to bowl with green beans. Add dressing and olives and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Spice-rubbed halibut cooks perfectly in a slow cooker and pairs nicely with corn tortillas and a fresh cabbage slaw.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Simple and fresh fish tacos combine tender fish, crisp sliced cabbage, and a tangy sauce. We wanted a recipe for fish tacos that we could prepare in our slow cooker that offered the same great flavor. To start, we chose mild but sturdy halibut fillets and coated them with a spice rub that we bloomed in the microwave. The fillets sat on a bed of sliced limes, and we added just enough water to steam the fish, ensuring that it would be moist and flaky. After trying a variety of dairy products for our sauce, we settled on a combination of two—mayonnaise and sour cream—for tangy flavor and richness. Lime juice and chipotle chiles gave the sauce tang and a subtle, smoky heat. Cabbage salad mixed with fresh cilantro, scallions, and lime juice had a nice crunch and was the perfect finishing touch. Look for halibut fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil sling. Check the halibut’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees. Sea bass is a good substitute for the halibut.
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling and press widthwise into slow cooker. Arrange lime slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter cilantro stems over lime slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with lime slices (about ¼ cup).
2. Microwave 1 tablespoon oil, 2 teaspoons chipotle, coriander, cumin, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly. Rub halibut with spice mixture, then arrange in even layer on top of cilantro stems. Cover and cook until halibut flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
3. Combine cabbage, scallions, 2 tablespoons lime juice, ¼ cup cilantro, ¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil in bowl. In separate bowl, combine mayonnaise, sour cream, garlic, remaining 1 tablespoon lime juice, remaining 2 tablespoons cilantro, and remaining 1 teaspoon chipotle. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Using sling, transfer halibut to cutting board. Gently lift and tilt fillets with spatula to remove cilantro stems and lime slices; discard poaching liquid and remove any white albumin from halibut. Cut each fillet into 3 equal pieces. Spread sauce evenly onto warm tortillas, top with fish and cabbage mixture, and serve with lime wedges.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Taking inspiration from the French classic coquilles St. Jacques, we set out to create a lighter and more contemporary dish that paired briny, sweet scallops with a creamy sauce made primarily of leeks and white wine. Our main obstacle was finding the right dairy product to give our sauce richness and body. We tried a variety of options, from milk to yogurt, but were unsuccessful; every sauce was too thin or bland. In order to get the rich sauce we were looking for, we settled on a small amount of cream enriched with Pecorino Romano cheese. To further develop the flavor of our sauce, we cooked the leeks with the garlic, cream, and white wine until the leeks started to break down and sweeten the sauce. We then nestled the scallops into this hot leek mixture to poach for 30 minutes until tender. Topping it all with parsley at the end ensured a bright, fresh finish.
1. Microwave leeks, garlic, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until leeks are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in cream and wine. Cover and cook until leeks are tender but not mushy, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Season scallops with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Spoon portion of sauce over scallops. Cover and cook on high until sides of scallops are firm and centers are opaque, 30 to 40 minutes.
3. Transfer scallops to serving dish. Stir Pecorino into sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over scallops and sprinkle with parsley. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Scallops
DRY VERSUS WET SCALLOPS Wet scallops are dipped in preservatives to extend their shelf life. Unfortunately, these watery preservatives dull the scallops’ flavor and ruin their texture. Unprocessed, or dry, scallops have much more flavor and a creamy, smooth texture, plus they brown very nicely. Dry scallops will look ivory or pinkish; wet scallops are bright white.
DISTINGUISHING DRY FROM WET If your scallops are not labeled, you can determine if they are wet or dry with this quick microwave test: Place one scallop on a paper towel–lined plate and microwave for 15 seconds. A dry scallop will exude very little water, while a wet scallop will leave a sizable ring of moisture on the paper towel. (The microwaved scallop can be cooked as is.)
TREATING WET SCALLOPS When you can find only wet scallops, you can hide the off-putting taste of the preservative by soaking the scallops in a solution of 1 quart cold water, ¼ cup lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons salt for 30 minutes. Be sure to pat the scallops very dry after soaking them. Even with this treatment, these scallops will be harder to brown than untreated dry scallops.
Making risotto in the slow cooker is easy, and using a parchment shield delivers foolproof results.
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Risotto usually demands a cook’s attention from start to finish, which is why slow-cooker risotto is so appealing. To start, we microwaved the onion and aromatics, which was easier than getting out a skillet and worked perfectly to soften the aromatics and toast the rice. We bolstered the rice with some white wine to increase depth of flavor, then stirred in a portion of a hot clam juice/chicken broth mixture, reserving the rest for later. We found that stirring it all in at once led to blown-out grains and mushy risotto. Once our rice was mostly cooked, we heated the remainder of the broth mixture and stirred it in to give the risotto a creamy texture. Now it was time for the seafood. Shrimp and scallops offered a brininess and sweetness that perfectly complemented the creamy rice, and they cooked through in just 30 to 40 minutes. Arborio rice, which is high in starch, gives risotto its characteristic creaminess; do not substitute other types of rice. If you cannot find bay scallops, you can substitute 8 ounces sea scallops, quartered. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. If using smaller or larger shrimp, be sure to adjust the cooking time as needed.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, 2 tablespoons butter, garlic, thyme, and saffron in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Microwave 1 cup clam juice, 1 cup broth, and wine in 4-cup liquid measuring cup until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth mixture and rice into slow cooker. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of broth mixture, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until rice is almost fully tender and all liquid is absorbed, 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Microwave remaining 2 cups clam juice and remaining 1 cup broth in now-empty measuring cup until steaming, about 5 minutes. Discard parchment. Slowly stream broth mixture into rice, stirring gently, until liquid is absorbed and risotto is creamy, about 1 minute. Gently stir in remaining 2 tablespoons butter until combined.
4. Season scallops and shrimp with salt and pepper and stir into risotto along with peas. Cover and cook on high until scallops and shrimp are opaque throughout, 30 to 40 minutes. Adjust risotto consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste and sprinkle with chives. Serve.
PREPPING SCALLOPS
The small crescent-shaped muscle that is sometimes attached to the scallop will be incredibly tough when cooked. Use your fingers to peel this muscle away from the side of each scallop before cooking.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Arborio Rice
To find the best brand of Arborio rice, we cooked up batches of Parmesan risotto with two domestically grown brands of Arborio rice and four Italian imports; all brands are widely available in supermarkets. To our surprise, the winning rice hailed not from the boot but from the Lone Star State. Texas-grown RiceSelect Arborio Rice was prized over all others, with “creamy, smooth” grains and a “good bite.”
Shrimp with Spiced Quinoa and Corn Salad
We quickly toast the quinoa for this salad in the microwave, then slow-cook it until tender before nestling in the shrimp.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to make a main course quinoa seafood salad that was easy to prepare and that was tailored to the slow cooker. To keep the grains separate and fluffy during cooking, we quickly toasted them in the microwave before adding them to the slow cooker. The heat of the slow cooker further toasted our grains, giving a nicely caramelized flavor to our salad. We then added in some smaller shrimp and corn to round out our Southwestern-themed salad. A sprinkling of Cotija cheese was a delicious finishing touch. A fresh salsa made with tomatoes, cilantro, and some lime juice perfectly complemented our salad. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. If you buy unwashed quinoa (or if you are unsure whether it’s washed), be sure to rinse it before cooking to remove its bitter protective coating (called saponin).
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave quinoa, scallion whites, jalapeños, 2 teaspoons oil, and chili powder in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 2 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in water and ½ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until water is absorbed and quinoa is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Season shrimp with pepper. Fluff quinoa with fork, then nestle shrimp into quinoa and sprinkle with corn. Cover and cook on high until shrimp are opaque throughout, 30 to 40 minutes.
3. Combine tomatoes, cilantro, lime juice, scallion greens, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Sprinkle quinoa and shrimp with Cotija and serve, passing salsa separately.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make this dish satisfying enough for a meal, we chose to pair the shrimp with some chorizo sausage and onion. We used a large can of fire-roasted diced tomatoes as the base for our dish, as well as another ingredient we found in many Spanish seafood recipes: beer. Beer added rounder, richer flavor than water or broth did; plus, it helped cut the acidity of the tomatoes. Two sliced serrano chiles added the perfect amount of heat to our base. As final touches, we stirred in some fresh cilantro and served the dish with lime wedges to add notes of freshness. Serve with crusty bread.
1. Microwave chorizo, onion, serranos, tomato paste, garlic, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes and beer, cover, and cook until flavors meld, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Season shrimp with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook on high until shrimp are opaque throughout, 30 to 40 minutes. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve with lime wedges.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This Southern favorite combo of shrimp and grits features rich-tasting polenta and tender shrimp with a hint of heat. The slow cooker is the perfect vehicle for cooking creamy polenta without the need to monitor the pot—the low, slow heat gently cooks the polenta, keeping it lump-free and creamy. We wanted a cheesy taste without using tons of cheese, so we added dry mustard powder, which enhanced the cheese flavor of the dish. To the mustard we added scallions, garlic, and chipotle to ensure that our polenta was anything but bland. We whisked in polenta with the water and milk and cooked it, without stirring, until tender, and we finished by stirring in cheddar for flavor. As for the shrimp, we simply nestled them into the polenta for just 30 to 40 minutes until cooked through. Be sure to use traditional polenta, not instant polenta. Coarse-ground degerminated cornmeal such as yellow grits (with uniform grains the size of couscous) works best in this recipe. Avoid instant or quick-cooking products, as well as whole-grain, stone-ground, and regular cornmeal. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave scallion whites, butter, garlic, chipotle, and mustard in bowl, stirring occasionally, until scallions are softened, about 2 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Whisk in water, cornmeal, milk, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until polenta is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Stir cheddar into polenta until melted, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Season shrimp with pepper and nestle into polenta. Cover and cook on high until shrimp are opaque throughout, 30 to 40 minutes. Sprinkle with scallion greens and serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Polenta
There are several different types of polenta available at the market—traditional, instant, and precooked—but they all are simply labeled “polenta.” Here’s how to tell them apart. The real deal (left) is labeled as either “polenta” or “traditional polenta,” and it is nothing more than a package of coarse-ground cornmeal with a very even grind and no small floury bits. Don’t be tempted to buy coarse-grain cornmeal without the term “polenta” clearly listed on the package, as it often includes a portion of fine, floury bits that will make the polenta taste gluey. Instant polenta (center) and precooked tubes of polenta (right) are parcooked convenience products that have short cooking times. Precooked polenta is easy to spot because of its tube-shaped packaging.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to figure out a way to make appealingly simple shrimp and green chile tacos without a bunch of extraneous toppings—just the essential chiles and onions. For the vegetables, we took a cue from a traditional Mexican condiment, poblano rajas, where strips of poblano peppers are roasted along with onion, garlic, and herbs. We found we could easily make them in the slow cooker: tossed with garlic and oil, they cooked to an almost perfectly caramelized state. Once we achieved supertender vegetables, we added our shrimp and cooked it just until it was perfectly poached. We tried using whole shrimp, but tasters preferred chopped-up pieces to distribute the shrimp’s brininess equally throughout the vegetable base. We then tossed the whole mixture with some lime zest, lime juice, and cilantro for brightness and freshness. Serve with your favorite taco toppings.
1. Toss poblanos and onions with 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, oregano, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in slow cooker. Cover and cook until vegetables are tender, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Season shrimp with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook on high until shrimp pieces are opaque throughout, 30 to 40 minutes. Strain shrimp mixture, discarding cooking liquid, and return to now-empty slow cooker. Stir in cilantro, lime zest and juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with tortillas.
Shrimp Boil with Corn and Potatoes
Everything for this classic shrimp boil goes into the slow cooker at once except the shrimp, which is added at the end.
SERVES 6 LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A classic South Carolina shrimp boil is made by simmering shrimp, smoked sausage, corn on the cob, and potatoes in a broth seasoned with Old Bay. In the moist environment of the slow cooker, we were able to cook everything gently to achieve perfectly cooked meat, seafood, and vegetables. We began by microwaving the sausage (to render fat) along with the spices (to bloom them). For the base, we replaced some of the cooking liquid (water, in this case) with clam juice to reinforce the taste of the sea. We cooked the sausage, potatoes, and corn until the potatoes were tender, then added the shrimp. This ensured intact potatoes, plump corn, and nicely cooked sausage and shrimp. Fresh corn on the cob is important to the success of this dish; do not substitute frozen corn on the cob. Use small red potatoes measuring 1 to 2 inches in diameter.
1. Microwave andouille, celery, tomato paste, Old Bay, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until celery is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in 4 cups water, potatoes, clam juice, corn, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Season shrimp with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook on high until shrimp are opaque throughout, 30 to 40 minutes. Strain shrimp boil and discard bay leaves. Serve.
Thai Green Curry with Shrimp and Sweet Potatoes
Chicken broth and creamy coconut milk are the base for this curry, while Thai green curry paste gives it bold flavor.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Thai curries usually get their complex flavor from a laundry list of aromatic ingredients—lemon grass, ginger, garlic, chiles, and other spices. To achieve the same great flavor without hunting down all those ingredients, we found a single ingredient that could substitute for them all: green curry paste, which contained all the ingredients of classic Thai curries and added big flavor to this dish in record time. All it needed was a little lime juice and fish sauce to round out the flavors. A combination of chicken broth and coconut milk gave us a rich, creamy base for our curry. To ensure that the delicate shrimp didn’t overcook, we stirred them in toward the end of cooking. For snow peas that were perfectly crisp-tender, we microwaved them with a little oil, then added them to the finished curry. The sweet potatoes become very tender in this dish; be sure to stir the curry gently to prevent the potatoes from breaking up too much.
1. Whisk broth, curry paste, and tapioca together in slow cooker, then stir in potatoes. Cover and cook until flavors meld and potatoes are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Microwave coconut milk in bowl until hot, about 2 minutes. Season shrimp with salt and pepper. Stir shrimp, coconut milk, lime juice, and fish sauce into curry. Cover and cook on high until shrimp are opaque throughout, about 30 minutes.
3. Microwave snow peas and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until snow peas are tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir snow peas into curry. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
CHAPTER 7
Old-Fashioned Chicken and Dumplings
Hearty Beef and Vegetable Pot Pie ■
Rustic Pork and White Bean Casserole ■ ■
Grown-Up Macaroni and Cheese with Comté and Porcini ■ ■
Broccoli and Sun-Dried Tomato Lasagna ■
SIMPLE SIDES AND ACCOMPANIMENTS
■ EASY PREP
■ VEGETARIAN
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With its buttery, flaky topping and tender chicken and vegetables coated in a velvety sauce, chicken pot pie is a sure crowd-pleaser. A combination of mushrooms, carrots, and onion formed the base of our filling, which we bound with a flour-thickened sauce. Chicken thighs contributed more flavor compared with breasts and stayed moist even after the long cooking time. Boneless, skinless thighs were also a snap to pull into chunks after cooking. Adding just a little tomato paste and soy sauce to the filling helped ramp up its flavor even further, and finishing it with a small amount of heavy cream provided the right amount of richness. We found using frozen puff pastry and augmenting it with Parmesan and black pepper gave us an impressive, complex topping with a minimum of additional work. To thaw frozen puff pastry, let it sit either in the refrigerator for 24 hours or on the counter for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of chicken, about 4 minutes per side; transfer to slow cooker. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining chicken; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms, carrots, onion, and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until vegetables are softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, thyme, and tomato paste and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in 1½ cups broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 1 cup broth and soy sauce into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Roll puff pastry into 12 by 9-inch rectangle on lightly floured counter. Using paring knife, cut pastry in half lengthwise, then into thirds widthwise to create 6 pieces. Cut four 1-inch slits in each piece and arrange upside down on parchment paper–lined baking sheet. Brush pieces with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, sprinkle with Parmesan and ¼ teaspoon pepper, and bake until puffed and lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking. Let pastry cool on sheet.
5. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks. Stir chicken, peas, and cream into filling and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Top individual portions with pastry before serving.
CUTTING SLITS IN PUFF PASTRY
Using paring knife, cut four 1-inch slits in pastry.
Old-Fashioned Chicken and Dumplings
For our slow-cooker chicken and dumplings, we make the stew first and then cook the dumplings on top at the end.
SERVES 8
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chicken and dumplings on the stovetop is a classic winter meal, but move it to a slow cooker and you get a slew of problems—chewy chicken, lackluster flavor, and gummy dumplings, to name a few. Since dark meat has more flavor and can stand up to long cooking without drying out, we started with boneless, skinless chicken thighs. We browned the meat, vegetables, and aromatics on the stovetop to build a base of flavor, and added tomato paste, dried herbs, and bay leaves—hardy ingredients that could stand up to the slow cooker. After the chicken and vegetables cooked for 4 to 5 hours, we arranged the dumplings around the perimeter of the slow-cooker insert (where heating elements are) to ensure that they cooked through. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. FOR THE FILLING Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of chicken, about 4 minutes per side; transfer to slow cooker. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining chicken; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions, celery, and carrots and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, tomato paste, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in 1 cup broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 3 cups broth and bay leaves into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Discard bay leaves. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks. Stir chicken and peas into filling. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed.
5. FOR THE DUMPLINGS Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt together in large bowl. Stir in milk and melted butter until just incorporated. Using greased ¼-cup measure, drop 8 dumplings around perimeter of filling. Cover and cook on high until dumplings have doubled in size, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve.
ARRANGING DUMPLINGS IN THE SLOW COOKER
Using ¼-cup measure, drop dumplings around perimeter of slow cooker.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This satisfying rustic casserole combines moist chicken and tender potatoes and carrots in a velvety sauce, topped off with a layer of crunchy croutons. To keep our prep work to a minimum, we chose boneless, skinless chicken thighs, which remained moist and tender during the long cooking time. Once the chicken was tender, we pulled it into chunks then gently stirred them back into the slow cooker. To jump-start the cooking of our carrots and potatoes, we microwaved them briefly until they began to soften. For more color and a hint of sweetness, we added frozen peas, too. Boursin cheese, added when we set the chicken aside to cool, gave us the makings of an ultracreamy and flavor-packed sauce; a couple tablespoons of tapioca, added to the slow cooker with the chicken, ensured that the sauce was thick and clingy. Croutons, sprinkled over the top of the finished casserole, provided a big crunch.
1. Microwave potatoes, carrots, and 1 tablespoon oil in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth and tapioca. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Arrange bread in single layer on rimmed baking sheet and bake until browned and crisp, about 10 minutes, stirring halfway through baking. Toss croutons with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and season with salt and pepper to taste; set aside for serving.
3. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks. Stir Boursin into filling until well combined. Stir in chicken and peas and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Top individual portions with croutons and serve.
We make an ultraflavorful filling in the slow cooker and then assemble the enchiladas and bake them in a hot oven.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chicken enchiladas offer a rich and complex combination of flavors and textures, but traditional cooking methods can be tedious. We wanted a more streamlined recipe for chicken enchiladas—one that utilized our slow cooker to make the filling and that enabled the enchiladas to be quickly assembled and finished in the oven. First we created a simple but flavorful red chile sauce with onion, garlic, spices, and tomato sauce, then braised chicken thighs directly in the sauce, which both enhanced the flavor of the sauce and ensured moist, flavorful meat for our enchilada filling. Monterey Jack cheese complemented the rich filling nicely, while canned jalapeños and fresh cilantro rounded out the flavors and provided tang and brightness. When it came time for assembly, we brushed the tortillas with oil and microwaved them to make them pliable. After experimenting with oven temperatures and times, we found that baking the assembled enchiladas covered for 15 minutes in a 450-degree oven resulted in perfectly melted cheese, and the edges of the tortillas did not dry out in the process. Serve with sour cream, diced avocado, sliced radishes, shredded romaine lettuce, and lime wedges.
1. Microwave onion, 2 tablespoons oil, chili powder, garlic, coriander, and cumin in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomato sauce and sugar. Season chicken with pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks. Combine chicken, ¾ cup sauce, 1½ cups Monterey Jack, cilantro, jalapeños, and lime juice in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Spread ¾ cup sauce over bottom of 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Brush both sides of tortillas with remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Stack tortillas, wrap in damp dish towel, and place on plate; microwave until warm and pliable, about 1 minute.
4. Working with 1 warm tortilla at a time, spread ⅓ cup chicken filling across center of tortilla. Roll tortilla tightly around filling and place seam side down in baking dish; arrange enchiladas in 2 columns across width of dish.
5. Pour remaining sauce over enchiladas to cover completely and sprinkle with remaining ½ cup Monterey Jack. Cover dish tightly with greased aluminum foil. Bake until enchiladas are heated through and cheese is melted, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes before serving.
ASSEMBLING ENCHILADAS
1. Spread chicken filling across center of tortilla, then roll tightly.
2. Place filled and rolled tortillas seam side down in 2 columns across width of prepared baking dish.
With a few tricks, it is surprisingly easy to turn out a first-rate, company-worthy paella in your slow cooker.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We thought the opportunity to try making paella in a slow cooker was too good to be missed: Paella is a Spanish dish of rice, hearty meats, and seafood that are slowly simmered until they meld into one delicious whole. Heating clam juice, water, and sherry in the microwave gave us a complex yet simple base in which to cook our rice. Boneless, skinless chicken thighs were robust enough to withstand slightly higher heat than we usually apply to chicken. A hefty amount of garlic, tomato paste, chorizo, and spices bolstered the meatiness of the dish. We stirred everything together and waited; the meat cooked perfectly, but the rice was mushy in some places and undercooked in others. We found that the meat was interfering with the rice cooking evenly. By layering the chicken and chorizo on top of the rice, the rice could absorb just the right amount of liquid while the chicken would slowly steam from the liquid below and be basted by the flavorful fat rendering from the chorizo above. Placing a parchment shield on top of the meats before putting the lid on also helped to trap heat and allowed the rice and chicken to cook through properly. Shrimp are a traditional component of paella, and we added them at the end because they needed just 20 minutes to cook. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. If using smaller or larger shrimp, be sure to adjust the cooking time as needed. Click here for more information on making a parchment shield and click here for more information on making a foil collar.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, oil, garlic, tomato paste, paprika, cayenne, saffron, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in rice.
2. Microwave clam juice, water, and sherry in now-empty bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Season chicken with salt and pepper and arrange in even layer on top of rice. Scatter chorizo over chicken. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of chorizo, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until liquid is absorbed and rice is just tender, 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Discard parchment and foil collar. Season shrimp with salt and pepper and scatter on top of paella. Cover and cook on high until shrimp is opaque throughout, 20 to 30 minutes.
4. Sprinkle peas and red peppers over shrimp, cover, and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with lemon wedges.
Hearty Beef and Vegetable Pot Pie
We love using the slow cooker to make a delicious and rich beef pot pie filling that we top with browned puff pastry.
SERVES 6 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make our version of beef pot pie in a slow cooker with all the nuances of a slow-simmered beef stew, we used beef chuck roast, which we’ve found to be the best cut for stews, and added a significant amount of vegetables. To deepen the meaty flavor of our vegetable-rich pie, we made sure to brown half of the beef to develop a nice fond before softening our vegetables. Tomato paste, garlic, and soy sauce enhanced the savory notes of the beef, and flour helped thicken the filling; we deglazed the pan with wine and a little of the broth to capture all of the flavorful browned bits on the bottom of the skillet. We liked the simplicity of the topping from our Chicken Pot Pie so much that we used it here, brushing it with olive oil and sprinkling it with thyme before baking it. To thaw frozen puff pastry, let it sit either in the refrigerator for 24 hours or on the counter for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
1. Pat beef dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of beef on all sides, about 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker with remaining uncooked beef.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms, carrots, and ½ teaspoon salt, cover, and cook until vegetables are softened and mushrooms have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until vegetables are dry and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, garlic, and 2 teaspoons thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in 1 cup broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 2 cups broth, onions, and soy sauce into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
4. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Roll puff pastry into 12 by 9-inch rectangle on lightly floured counter. Using paring knife, cut pastry in half lengthwise, then into thirds widthwise to create 6 pieces. Cut four 1-inch slits in each piece and arrange upside down on parchment paper–lined baking sheet. Brush pieces with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, sprinkle with remaining 1 teaspoon thyme and pinch salt, and bake until puffed and lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking. Let pastry cool on sheet.
5. Stir peas into filling and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Top individual portions with pastry before serving.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Thawing Puff Pastry
Homemade puff pastry is a laborious and time-intensive undertaking, but luckily convenient frozen puff pastry is readily available in grocery stores. Still, store-bought puff pastry can present the uninitiated with some minor obstacles, particularly when it comes to temperature.
For the perfect puff, the pastry should never come to room temperature. Most cooks thaw puff pastry on the counter, but it can quickly get too warm. We recommend letting the pastry defrost slowly in the refrigerator, where it can’t overheat. When rolling or cutting the pastry on the counter, do so as quickly as possible. If the dough becomes too soft, return it to the refrigerator for 5 minutes or so to firm up. If it is warm in your kitchen and the dough has softened too much, chill the shaped dough thoroughly before baking—15 minutes in the freezer or 30 minutes in the refrigerator will do the trick.
A panade made with bread and broth is the key to long-cooked ground beef that stays tender in our shepherd’s pie.
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Shepherd’s pie is certainly a classic among hearty casseroles, but achieving the characteristic tender meat and rich flavors in the filling can be a challenge in the slow cooker. Browning the beef to develop flavor is standard in most traditional recipes, but in the slow cooker this produced overcooked, gritty meat. To fix this, we found that mixing the raw beef with a panade—a mixture of bread and milk often used in meatballs but here we use chicken broth—before browning worked wonders. Tomato paste and Worcestershire sauce also helped to add meaty flavor and richness. As for the mashed potato topping, we simply whipped up a batch of our favorite spuds and spread then evenly over the top just before serving. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. We prefer to make our own mashed potato topping; however, you can substitute 3 cups prepared mashed potatoes, if desired. Either way, be sure your mashed potatoes are warm and have a loose but not soupy texture; otherwise, they will be difficult to spread over the filling.
1. FOR THE FILLING Mash bread, ¼ cup broth, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper into paste in large bowl using fork. Add ground beef and knead with hands until well combined.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add half of beef mixture and cook, breaking up meat into rough 1-inch pieces with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer beef to slow cooker. Repeat with remaining beef mixture; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Add mushrooms, onions, carrots, and ½ teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet. Cover and cook until vegetables are softened and mushrooms have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until vegetables are dry and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes.
4. Stir in flour, tomato paste, garlic, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in remaining 2¼ cups broth and Worcestershire, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
5. Stir in peas and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
6. FOR THE TOPPING Meanwhile, cover potatoes with 1 inch water in large saucepan. Bring to boil, then reduce to simmer and cook until tender, 18 to 20 minutes. Drain potatoes, wipe saucepan dry, then return potatoes to now-empty pot.
7. Mash potatoes thoroughly with potato masher. Fold in warm half-and-half, melted butter, salt, and pepper. Adjust consistency with extra warm half-and-half as needed until potatoes have a loose but not soupy texture. Transfer warm mashed potatoes to 1-gallon zipper-lock bag and snip off bottom corner to make 1-inch opening. Pipe potatoes evenly over filling, covering entire surface, and smooth with back of spoon. Sprinkle with chives and serve.
TOPPING SHEPHERD’S PIE
1. Transfer potato mixture to 1-gallon zipper-lock bag and snip off 1 corner.
2. Pipe mixture over filling, covering entire surface. Smooth with back of spoon.
Rustic Pork and White Bean Casserole
Chopped bacon and boneless country-style pork ribs deliver meaty, smoky flavor to this cassoulet-inspired casserole.
SERVES 6 TO 8 LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 6 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Inspired by the French classic cassoulet, we set out to create a casserole in our slow cooker packed with vegetables and smoky pork flavor. For the meat we turned to easy-prep boneless country-style pork ribs, cutting them into 1½-inch pieces before adding them to the slow cooker. For smoky flavor, bacon was an easy choice, and we microwaved it along with the aromatics and vegetables. To bolster the flavor of the casserole, we microwaved chopped onions with plenty of garlic, as well as tomato paste for richness and body. To thicken the casserole, we processed a can of whole peeled tomatoes and half of the beans to a paste before adding them to the slow cooker. The remaining beans were left whole and simmered along with the vegetables and the aromatics. The finishing touch to our rustic casserole was crusty toasted croutons made from a small baguette; tossing the croutons with minced fresh oregano and a little olive oil added a welcome peppery taste.
1. Process tomatoes and their juice and half of beans in blender until smooth, about 30 seconds; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Microwave onions, bacon, tomato paste, 1 tablespoon oregano, garlic, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in remaining beans, wine, parsnips, and carrots. Season pork with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 6 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 6 hours on high.
3. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Arrange bread in single layer on rimmed baking sheet and bake until browned and crisp, about 10 minutes, stirring halfway through baking. Toss croutons with oil and remaining 2 tablespoons oregano, and season with salt and pepper to taste; set aside for serving.
4. Adjust consistency of filling as needed with hot water. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Top individual portions with croutons and drizzle with extra oil. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Country-Style Pork Ribs
Country-style ribs aren’t actually ribs at all. They’re well-marbled pork chops cut from the upper side of the rib cage, from the fatty blade end of the loin. Because they contain a good amount of intramuscular fat, they are a favorite for braising in the slow cooker, particularly when we want only a small amount of juicy, tender pork. At the meat counter, these “ribs” can have widely varying proportions of light and dark meat, so be sure to choose those with a greater amount of dark.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS MEATLOAF
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
Our first tries at making meatloaf in the slow cooker turned out unattractive loaves, and although we liked the idea of pressing the loaf directly into the cooker, scooping out meatloaf at serving time was just not appealing. To alleviate some of the greasiness we tried using leaner beef, but this really dried out our meatloaf. By switching to rich, flavorful meatloaf mix we got something moist and delicious, albeit greasy. Then we hit upon using a foil sling to allow us to remove the loaf easily and leave the unwanted fat behind. What’s more, we were now able to place our meatloaves under the broiler to ensure a bubbly, caramelized top. If you cannot find meatloaf mix, substitute 1 pound 85 percent lean ground beef and 1 pound ground pork. You will need an oval slow cooker for these recipes. Check the meatloaf’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor it until it registers 155 degrees. Be sure to pack the meat mixture well while shaping, so it doesn’t break apart while cooking.
1 CLASSIC MEATLOAF
1. Microwave onion, oil, and thyme in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Mash bread and milk into paste in large bowl using fork. Stir in onion mixture, eggs, parsley, Worcestershire, mustard, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Add meatloaf mix; knead with hands until well combined.
2. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Shape meat mixture into firm 9 by 5-inch loaf across center of foil sling using wet hands. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to slow cooker.
3. Combine ketchup, vinegar, and sugar. Brush meatloaf with half of ketchup mixture. Cover; cook until meatloaf registers 155 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to rimmed baking sheet, allowing juices to drain back into slow cooker; remove any albumin. Press edges of foil flat. Brush meatloaf with remaining ketchup mixture. Broil until spotty brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes before serving.
2 SMOKY BACON MEATLOAF
1. Microwave onion and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Mash bread and milk into paste in large bowl using fork. Stir in onion mixture, eggs, parsley, Worcestershire, and salt. Add meatloaf mix and bacon; knead with hands until well combined.
2. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Shape meat mixture into firm 9 by 5-inch loaf across center of foil sling using wet hands. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to slow cooker.
3. Combine ketchup, vinegar, sugar, and liquid smoke. Brush meatloaf with half of ketchup mixture. Cover; cook until meatloaf registers 155 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to rimmed baking sheet, allowing juices to drain back into slow cooker; remove any albumin. Press edges of foil flat. Brush meatloaf with remaining ketchup mixture. Broil until spotty brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes before serving.
3 SPICY KOREAN MEATLOAF
1. Stir scallion whites, 2 teaspoons oil, and ginger together in small bowl and microwave until fragrant, about 1 minute. Mash bread and milk into paste in large bowl using fork. Stir in scallion mixture, kimchi, eggs, and soy sauce. Add meatloaf mix; knead with hands until well combined.
2. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Shape meat mixture into firm 9 by 5-inch loaf across center of foil sling using wet hands. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to slow cooker.
3. Combine Sriracha, sugar, vinegar, and remaining 1 teaspoon oil. Brush meatloaf with half of Sriracha mixture. Cover; cook until meatloaf registers 155 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to rimmed baking sheet, allowing juices to drain back into slow cooker; remove any albumin. Press edges of foil flat. Brush meatloaf with remaining Sriracha mixture. Broil until spotty brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with scallion greens and serve.
4 SOUTHWESTERN MEATLOAF
1. Microwave onion and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Mash bread and milk into paste in large bowl using fork. Stir in onions, corn, eggs, ¼ cup cilantro, chipotle, and salt. Add meatloaf mix; knead with hands until well combined.
2. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Shape meat mixture into firm 9 by 5-inch loaf across center of foil sling using wet hands. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to slow cooker.
3. Brush meatloaf with ¼ cup of chili sauce. Cover; cook until meatloaf registers 155 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to rimmed baking sheet, allowing juices to drain back into slow cooker; remove any albumin. Press edges of foil flat. Brush meatloaf with remaining ¼ cup chili sauce; sprinkle with pepper Jack. Broil until cheese is melted, 2 to 4 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining cilantro. Serve.
5 ITALIAN MEATLOAF
1. Microwave onion, garlic, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Mash bread and milk into paste in large bowl using fork. Stir in onion mixture, ¾ cup Parmesan, parsley, eggs, pepper flakes, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Add meatloaf mix; knead with hands until well combined.
2. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Shape meat mixture into firm 9 by 5-inch loaf across center of foil sling using wet hands. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to slow cooker.
3. Brush meatloaf with ½ cup pasta sauce. Cover; cook until meatloaf registers 155 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to rimmed baking sheet, allowing juices to drain back into slow cooker; remove any albumin. Press edges of foil flat. Brush meatloaf with remaining ½ cup pasta sauce. Broil until spotty brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Serve.
SERVES 6 TO 8 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a lighter version of meatloaf, we started with ground turkey instead of the standard meatloaf mix. Adding coarsely chopped mushrooms gave us the same deep, meaty flavor as using a combination of meats, but without the additional fat. Be sure to use ground turkey, not ground turkey breast (also labeled 99 percent fat-free), in this recipe. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the meatloaf’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor it until it registers 160 degrees. Be sure to pack the meat mixture well while shaping so it doesn’t break apart while cooking.
1. Stir shallot, garlic, oil, thyme, and cayenne together in large bowl and microwave until fragrant, about 1 minute.
2. Process bread, milk, egg, Worcestershire, salt, and pepper in food processor to smooth paste, about 30 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add mushrooms and pulse until coarsely chopped, about 10 pulses; transfer to bowl with shallot mixture. Add ground turkey and knead with hands until well combined.
3. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling; lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Shape turkey mixture into firm 9 by 5-inch loaf across center of foil sling using wet hands. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to prepared slow cooker.
4. Combine ketchup, vinegar, sugar, and hot sauce in bowl. Brush meatloaf with half of ketchup mixture. Cover and cook until meatloaf registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
5. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Using sling, transfer meatloaf to rimmed baking sheet, allowing juices to drain back into slow cooker; remove any albumin from meatloaf. Press edges of foil flat. Brush meatloaf with remaining ketchup mixture. Broil until bubbling and spotty brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Let meatloaf cool for 15 minutes before serving.
ASSEMBLING MEATLOAF FOR A SLOW COOKER
Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch rectangle, then shape meatloaf across center of sling into 9-inch-long loaf. Be sure to pack meat mixture well so it doesn’t break apart while cooking.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chili Mac is a classic American casserole in which a meaty, chili-flavored tomato sauce is blended with macaroni and cheese. Comfort food at its very best, this recipe was definitely one we wanted to translate to the slow cooker. To develop the meaty chili sauce, we knew that we’d need to brown the meat (to which we added a panade—a paste of milk and bread—for tenderness) for texture and flavor, so we used the Dutch oven instead of the microwave to also cook the onions along with a generous amount of chili powder, garlic, and cumin. A combination of crushed tomatoes and tomato sauce added to the pot after we browned the meat created the proper consistency for our casserole. We toasted the macaroni to set the proteins in our pasta and prevent it from becoming bloated. We reserved a cup of the cheese for an appealingly cheesy topping. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil collar.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Mash bread, milk, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper into paste in large bowl using fork. Add ground beef and knead with hands until well combined.
2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add beef mixture and cook, breaking up meat into rough 1-inch pieces with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Add onions, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook until onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in chili powder, garlic, and cumin and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
3. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add macaroni and cook, stirring occasionally, until edges are translucent, about 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in tomatoes, water, and tomato sauce, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in 1 cup pepper Jack. Transfer mixture to prepared slow cooker, cover, and cook until macaroni is tender, 1 to 2 hours on high.
4. Discard foil collar. Gently stir macaroni to recombine. Adjust consistency with extra hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with remaining 1 cup pepper Jack, cover, and let sit until melted, about 20 minutes. Serve.
For pasta with just the right texture, we toast it in the microwave and jump-start the cooking using boiling water.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Slow-cooker macaroni and cheese is notoriously finicky—the pasta is usually overcooked and flabby, and the dairy-based sauce breaks and curdles during the long cooking time, resulting in a grainy, separated sauce. We found that toasting our macaroni with a little oil allowed its proteins to set, which prevented excessive swelling. By combining it with boiling water, we could jump-start its cooking and cut down on cooking time. As for the sauce, we found that evaporated milk and condensed cheddar cheese soup, because of their stabilizers, created a creamy base that didn’t break. Shredded cheddar ramped up the flavor but brought back some of the graininess. Swapping in some Monterey Jack, which has a creamier texture when melted, produced a rich-tasting sauce with a smooth consistency; some dry mustard boosted the cheesy flavor. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount. Click here for more information on making a foil collar.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Microwave macaroni and oil in bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until macaroni begin to look toasted and blistered, 5 to 8 minutes.
2. Transfer hot macaroni to prepared slow cooker and immediately stir in 2¾ cups boiling water. Stir in evaporated milk, condensed soup, cheddar, Monterey Jack, mustard, 1 teaspoon pepper, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until macaroni are tender, 1 to 2 hours on high.
3. Discard foil collar. Gently stir remaining ¼ cup boiling water into macaroni until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust consistency with extra boiling water as needed. Sprinkle individual portions with bread-crumb topping, if using. Serve. (Macaroni can be held on warm or low setting for up to 30 minutes.)
MAKING A FOIL COLLAR
Fold sheets of aluminum foil to make six-layered foil rectangle that measures roughly 16 inches long by 4 inches wide. Press collar into back side of slow cooker; food will help hold collar in place.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
The Importance of Toasting Pasta
The main structural elements of pasta are starch and protein. When pasta is cooked in boiling water, the moisture causes the starch to swell up; simultaneously, the heat causes the protein to set, constraining the expansion of the starch and resulting in pasta with the proper texture. In the slow cooker, however, the liquid heats up slowly, so the starch has more time to swell before being checked by the protein, resulting in soggy, mushy pasta. Toasting our raw pasta—either on the stovetop or in the microwave—before adding it to the slow cooker helped to set the protein and prevented the pasta from becoming bloated.
When toasting pasta in the microwave, we found that using 50 percent power, and stirring the pasta occasionally, worked best; note that only a portion will look toasted and blistered. However, if you have a weaker microwave you may need to toast your pasta for a longer period than we’ve specified in the recipe. Also, if your microwave does not have a power-level button, you can toast the pasta on high power for half the amount of time given in the recipe, stirring the pasta more frequently.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Buoyed by the ease and comforting creaminess of our Macaroni and Cheese, we set out to boost its flavor and further broaden its appeal. Being almost entirely hands-off made it ideal for serving to company, and this dressed-up version fit the bill. For us, the meltiest, most grown-up cheese dish is a Swiss-style fondue–comprising a blend of Alpine cheeses, white wine, and, sometimes, wild mushrooms, with hunks of bread to sop up the dregs. We started with an aged Gruyère, a healthy dose of wine, and a handful of dried porcini; we ended up with a curdled mess, albeit a delicious one. We found that switching to a younger Comté, a cheese similar in flavor to Gruyère, and keeping the Monterey Jack (which was in our classic recipe) greatly improved our texture: Younger cheeses melt better due to their higher moisture levels and more flexible protein structures (both qualities diminish with age). Cutting back on the wine, and thus acidity, helped to prevent curdling, and substituting a little extra water aided meltability. Look for a Comté aged for about one year (avoid Comté aged for longer; it won’t melt well). You can substitute an equal amount of fontina cheese for Comté. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount. Click here for more information on making a foil collar.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Microwave macaroni and oil in bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until macaroni begin to look toasted and blistered, 5 to 8 minutes.
2. Transfer hot macaroni to prepared slow cooker and immediately stir in 2¾ cups boiling water. Stir in evaporated milk, condensed soup, Comté, Monterey Jack, wine, mushrooms, mustard, 1 teaspoon pepper, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until macaroni are tender, 1 to 2 hours on high.
3. Discard foil collar. Gently stir remaining ¼ cup boiling water into macaroni until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust consistency with extra boiling water as needed. Sprinkle individual portions with bread-crumb topping, if using. Serve. (Macaroni can be held on warm or low setting for up to 30 minutes.)
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
BREAD-CRUMB TOPPING
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
Toss panko with oil in bowl and season with salt and pepper. Microwave panko, stirring occasionally, until deep golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes; let cool completely. Stir in Parmesan and chives. (Topping can be refrigerated for up to 2 days; bring to room temperature before using.)
Our slow-cooker “baked” ziti features Italian sausage, creamy ricotta cheese, and a gooey topping of melted mozzarella.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Baked ziti usually requires multiple steps: cooking the pasta, making the sauce, layering in the cheese, and, finally, baking everything in the oven. Our goal was to simplify the process by making this classic dish in a slow cooker. But getting tender pasta and gooey melted cheese from the slow cooker required a few tricks. First there was the issue of the pasta: Precooked pasta turned mushy, and raw pasta didn’t fare well either. Instead, we toasted raw ziti with a little oil before putting it into the slow cooker. For the sauce, we tried a variety of canned tomato products, but it was a combination of crushed tomatoes and tomato sauce that provided the right depth of flavor along with the aromatics. Topping the casserole with cheese after cooking and then letting it sit in the turned-off cooker allowed the cheese to melt and heat through without separating. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil collar.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook sausage, breaking up pieces with wooden spoon, until well browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in onion, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and cook until onion is softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
2. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add ziti and cook, stirring constantly, until edges of pasta become translucent, about 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in tomatoes and tomato sauce, scraping up any browned bits. Transfer mixture to prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook until pasta is tender, 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Discard foil collar. Dollop ricotta over ziti and sprinkle with mozzarella. Cover and let sit until cheese is melted, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with basil and serve.
SIMPLE SIDES
THE SIMPLEST GREEN SALAD
SERVES 4
It is important to use high-quality ingredients, as there are no bells or whistles to camouflage old lettuce, flavorless oil, or harsh vinegar. Be sure to use interesting leafy greens, such as mesclun, arugula, or Bibb lettuce, rather than those with a more neutral flavor, such as iceberg lettuce. This recipe can be easily doubled.
Rub inside of salad bowl with garlic. Add lettuce. Holding thumb over mouth of oil bottle to control flow, slowly drizzle lettuce with small amount of oil. Toss greens very gently. Continue to drizzle with oil and toss gently until greens are lightly coated and just glistening. Sprinkle with small amounts of vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste and toss gently to coat. Serve.
Traditional lasagna noodles, boiled in advance, are the key to a slow-cooker lasagna with just the right texture and heft.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We think lasagna is the ultimate slow-cooker casserole, but our early attempts at slow-cooker lasagna yielded gummy noodles and washed-out flavors. With a few tricks, however, we were able to turn things around. First, we found that no-boil noodles simply didn’t work in the slow cooker—they became much too soft. Turning to regular lasagna noodles, we found that precooking the noodles was the solution to gummy, underdone noodles. To simplify our assembly, we utilized the test kitchen’s favorite jarred pasta sauce, Bertolli Tomato and Basil, and boosted the flavors of the ricotta filling with a hefty amount of Parmesan and some fragrant basil. Spooning dollops of ricotta over the noodles—instead of spreading it—and pinching off pieces of raw sausage helped to streamline assembly as well. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil collar and here for more information on making a foil liner. This lasagna is great served right out of the slow cooker, or it can be transferred to a serving dish for a more impressive presentation.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar, then press 2 large sheets of foil into slow cooker perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges. Lightly coat prepared slow cooker with vegetable oil spray.
2. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain noodles, rinse under cold water, then spread out in single layer over clean dish towels and let dry. (Do not use paper towels; they will stick to noodles.)
3. Combine ricotta, 1 cup Parmesan, basil, egg, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Spread ½ cup pasta sauce into prepared slow cooker.
4. Arrange 4 noodle pieces in slow cooker (they may overlap), then dollop 10 rounded tablespoons of ricotta mixture over noodles. Pinch off one-third of sausage into tablespoon-size pieces and scatter over ricotta. Sprinkle with 1 cup mozzarella, then spoon ½ cup sauce over top. Repeat layering of noodles, ricotta mixture, sausage, mozzarella, and sauce twice more.
5. For final layer, arrange remaining 4 noodles in slow cooker, then top with remaining 1 cup sauce and sprinkle with remaining 1 cup mozzarella and remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Cover and cook until lasagna is heated through, 4 to 5 hours on low.
6. Let lasagna cool for 20 minutes. (If desired, use sling to transfer lasagna to serving dish. Press edges of foil flat; discard any juices.) Serve.
SERVES 6 TO 8 VEG
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Following the success of our Sausage Lasagna, we decided to create a vegetarian version by swapping in broccoli and sun-dried tomatoes for the sausage. Blanching the broccoli in boiling water before cooking the lasagna noodles ensured it was perfectly tender and vibrant after 4 hours in the slow cooker. The test kitchen’s favorite jarred pasta sauce is Bertolli Tomato and Basil. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil collar and here for more information on making a foil liner. This lasagna is great served right out of the slow cooker, or it can be transferred to a serving dish for a more impressive presentation.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar, then press 2 large sheets of foil into slow cooker perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges. Lightly coat prepared slow cooker with vegetable oil spray.
2. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add broccoli and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until broccoli is bright green and just tender, about 3 minutes; transfer to paper towel–lined plate. Let broccoli cool slightly, then chop coarse.
3. Return water to boil, add noodles, and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain noodles, rinse under cold water, then spread out in single layer over clean dish towels and let dry. (Do not use paper towels; they will stick to noodles.)
4. Combine ricotta, 1 cup Parmesan, tomatoes, egg, oregano, garlic powder, pepper flakes, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Spread ½ cup pasta sauce into prepared slow cooker.
5. Arrange 4 noodle pieces in slow cooker (they may overlap), then dollop 10 rounded tablespoons of ricotta mixture over noodles. Scatter one-third of broccoli over ricotta. Sprinkle with 1 cup mozzarella, then spoon ½ cup sauce over top. Repeat layering of noodles, ricotta mixture, broccoli, mozzarella, and sauce twice more.
6. For final layer, arrange remaining 4 noodles in slow cooker, then top with remaining 1 cup sauce and sprinkle with remaining 1 cup mozzarella and remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Cover and cook until lasagna is heated through, 4 to 5 hours on low.
7. Let lasagna cool for 20 minutes. (If desired, use sling to transfer lasagna to serving dish. Press edges of foil flat; discard any juices.) Serve.
MAKING A FOIL LINER
Press 2 large sheets of aluminum foil into slow cooker perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges. Before serving, use edges of liner as handles to pull food out of slow cooker fully intact.
CHAPTER 8
Chicken and Garden Vegetable Soup ■
Creamy Butternut Squash and Apple Soup ■ ■ ■
Hearty Turkey Stew with Squash and Spinach ■
Red Lentil Stew ■ ■
Black Bean Chili ■ ■ ■
Thai Chicken with Coconut Curry Sauce ■ ■
Orange-Tarragon Chicken with Potatoes and Carrots ■
Braised Chicken Thighs with Garlicky Spinach ■
Southern Chicken and Dirty Rice
Asian-Style Braised Short Ribs ■ ■
Smothered Pork Chops with Apples
Pork Tenderloin with Spiced Bulgur Salad ■ ■
Braised Halibut with Leeks and Mustard ■ ■
Cod in Saffron Broth with Chorizo and Potatoes
Easy Cherry Tomato Pasta Sauce ■ ■ ■ ■
Creamy Farro with Swiss Chard ■ ■
Southwestern Lentil and Bean Salad ■ ■
SIMPLE SIDES
■ EASY PREP
■ VEGETARIAN
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
Chicken and Garden Vegetable Soup
To keep our chicken and vegetable soup fresh-tasting, we add the peas and summer squash at the end.
SERVES 2 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 1½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Creating anything garden-fresh in a slow cooker is a tall order, but we beat the odds by developing a recipe for a bright, lively-tasting chicken and vegetable soup. We found that the trick was adding the vegetables in stages. Onion, garlic, and carrot went in at the start so their flavors would deepen and meld into a richly flavored broth. We stirred in yellow squash and peas at the end of cooking so that they would turn tender but not mushy and dull-tasting. For a finishing touch of bright, herbal flavor, we stirred in fresh parsley just before serving. As with our other slow-cooker chicken soups, we chose a bone-in split breast. Although breast meat is lean, the bones helped protect the meat so it retained its moisture during cooking. We simply discarded the bones after shredding the cooked chicken, and then stirred the meat back into our soup, giving us juicy, flavorful bites of chicken to complement the soup’s fresh vegetable flavor. You can substitute an equal amount of bone-in chicken thighs for the bone-in breast, if desired; increase the cooking time to 3 to 4 hours on low.
1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken, 3 to 4 minutes per side; transfer to plate and discard skin.
2. Add onion, carrot, and ¼ teaspoon salt to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, garlic, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 1 cup broth and bay leaf into slow cooker. Nestle chicken into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard bones.
5. Discard bay leaf. Stir squash into soup, cover, and cook on high until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Stir chicken and peas into soup and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 2 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this old-fashioned soup we chose blade steak, which contributed beefy flavor. We found that cremini mushrooms gave our soup a rich dimension, and their earthy flavor held up even in the slow cooker. A traditional mirepoix, for which we jump-started the onion in the microwave with a little oil and tomato paste, formed the base of the soup while store-bought beef broth, enhanced with soy sauce, imparted deep flavor. You can substitute an equal amount of beef flat-iron steaks, if desired.
1. Microwave onion, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, tomato paste, and thyme in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, mushrooms, carrot, celery, soy sauce, and bay leaf. Season steak with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
2. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add noodles and 1½ teaspoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain noodles, rinse with cold water, then toss with remaining 1 teaspoon oil in bowl.
3. Transfer steak to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat and gristle.
4. Discard bay leaf. Stir noodles and beef into soup and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Egg Noodles
Egg noodles are the starchy soul of many of our favorite comfort foods like Beef and Noodle Soup. They should taste lightly wheaty, like traditional pasta, but with a richer flavor that comes from eggs in the pasta dough. Our favorite noodles, Pennsylvania Dutch Wide Egg Noodles, boast a “gentle egg flavor” that’s “just rich enough.” This product’s high semolina content gave the noodles a firm yet tender bite with a “subtle chew.” Their wide corkscrew shape worked in both soup and pasta.
Creamy Butternut Squash and Apple Soup
Earthy butternut squash is paired with a sweet apple for this easy-to-make soup for two.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to make things easy and prepare this classic soup in the slow cooker. We started by microwaving onion in a bowl with butter and salt. After transferring that mixture to the slow cooker, we added freshly peeled butternut squash, which we cut into 1-inch pieces, chicken broth, and a Golden Delicious apple. After the soup had cooked for 6 to 7 hours on low (or 4 to 5 hours on high), we used a blender to puree it to a silky-smooth texture. A dollop of sour cream works really well on this soup, but you can also sprinkle it with crumbled blue cheese or goat cheese, or crispy bacon. Serve with Classic Croutons, if desired.
1. Microwave onion, butter, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in squash, apple, and broth. Cover and cook until squash is tender, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Process soup in blender until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle individual portions with chives before serving.
CUTTING UP BUTTERNUT SQUASH
1. After peeling squash, trim off top and bottom and cut squash in 2 between narrow neck and wide curved bottom.
2. Cut squash neck into evenly sized planks, then cut planks into evenly sized pieces, according to recipe.
3. Cut squash base in half lengthwise, then scoop out and discard seeds and fibers.
4. Slice each base half into evenly sized lengths. Cut lengths into evenly sized pieces, according to recipe.
SERVES 2 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In building a classic beef stew we started, naturally, with the beef. We found that tasters loved the silky, fall-part tender texture and deep meaty flavor of blade steak. To start building flavor, we browned the meat. Keeping the steaks whole while we seared them, and pulling them apart into chunks later, saved us labor but still produced the flavorful fond we wanted. We then enlisted the help of tomato paste—which we cooked with the other aromatics—along with wine and beef broth, to create a rich, complex base.
1. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown steaks, about 2 minutes per side; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Add onion to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in flour, tomato paste, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in broth, water, and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir potato, carrot, and bay leaf into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high. Transfer beef to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks; discard fat and gristle.
4. Discard bay leaf. Stir beef and peas into stew and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Hearty Turkey Stew with Squash and Spinach
One large bone-in turkey thigh is all you need to make this delicious, for-two-size stew.
SERVES 2 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a twist on classic chicken stew, we turned to meaty turkey thighs, pairing them with earthy butternut squash and baby spinach. Garlic, thyme, and red pepper flakes added complex depth of flavor and worked nicely with the mellow taste and silky texture of the butternut squash. To bloom the seasonings and soften the onion, we gave them a jump start in the microwave before adding them to the slow cooker. Delicate baby spinach added freshness and needed to cook for just a few minutes at the end to warm through and wilt into the stew. A sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese was a must here—its nutty and salty flavor enhanced the other flavors in the stew. The amount of spinach may seem like a lot at first, but the leaves wilt down substantially. You can substitute an equal amount of bone-in chicken thighs for the turkey.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, tomato paste, oil, thyme, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in squash, broth, tapioca, and bay leaf. Season turkey with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until turkey is tender, 6 to 7 hours on low.
2. Transfer turkey to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks; discard bones.
3. Discard bay leaf. Stir turkey into stew, then stir in spinach, 1 handful at a time, and let sit until wilted, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, drizzling individual portions with extra oil.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 1½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a satisfying, flavorful lentil stew for two, we looked to Indian cuisine for inspiration. Deeply flavored, exotically spiced dals are comforting, hearty lentil dishes that have a thick consistency when cooked. For our scaled-down version, we started with red lentils, which are small and cooked down nicely in the slow cooker. Fork-friendly bites of carrot, chopped tomatoes, and sweet peas added color and substance. To capture the complex flavors of Indian cuisine without reaching for several spice jars, we opted for garam masala, a spice blend that contains dried chiles, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, and other spices. Coconut milk ensured that our stew was rich and creamy. To prevent the flavor of the coconut milk from becoming muted over the long cooking time, and to keep the peas and tomatoes from disintegrating, we added them at the end and cooked our stew for 5 minutes to absorb the flavors and give the vegetables a chance to soften. Do not substitute other varieties of lentils for the red lentils here; red lentils produce a very different texture.
1. Microwave oil, garlic, garam masala, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, carrots, lentils, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cover and cook until lentils are very tender and broken down, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Stir tomatoes, coconut milk, and peas into stew, cover, and cook on high until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
CORING AND SEEDING A TOMATO
1. To remove core, use tip of paring knife to cut around stem, angling tip of knife slightly inward. Remove cone-shaped piece of stem and core from top of tomato.
2. To seed tomato, first cut tomato in half crosswise, then use your finger to pull out seeds and surrounding gel.
SERVES 2
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To develop the all-American chili we were looking for, we started with the base, choosing a combination of tomato sauce and diced tomatoes to create the proper consistency. Next, we incorporated a generous combination of chili powder, cumin, oregano, and red pepper flakes, bumping up the flavors even further with smoky chipotles. Browning the beef to develop flavor is standard in most traditional chilis, but it produced overcooked, gritty meat in the slow cooker. To fix this, we found mixing the raw beef with a panade—usually a mixture of bread and milk often used in meatballs but here we sub in savory soy sauce—before browning worked wonders. The soy sauce may be a tad unconventional for chili, but it helped to boost the meaty flavor. Serve with your favorite chili garnishes.
1. Mash bread, water, soy sauce, and ¼ teaspoon pepper into paste in large bowl using fork. Add ground beef and knead with hands until well combined.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in chili powder, tomato paste, garlic, cumin, oregano, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add beef mixture and cook, breaking up beef with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato sauce, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir diced tomatoes, beans, sugar, and chipotle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
4. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of chili. Break up any remaining large pieces of beef with spoon. Adjust consistency with extra hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Bell peppers and ordinary white mushrooms add heft to this black bean chili, while mustard seeds provide complexity.
SERVES 2 VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Black bean chili is a hearty, satisfying dish and a great option for the slow cooker. But vegetarian versions are a bit trickier since there are no ham products, like meaty, smoky ham hocks, to build flavor over the long cooking time. To achieve the full flavors we expected from a traditional black bean chili, we started by blooming a generous amount of aromatics and spices. This additional step was promising, but it got us only so far—the chili still seemed pretty lean. Though a bit odd for a chili, a surprise ingredient, mustard seeds, added an appealing pungency and the level of complexity we were looking for. To bulk up the chili, we added bell peppers, white mushrooms, and canned tomatoes. We added the tomatoes at the end because their acidity prevented the beans from cooking through fully when added at the beginning. And while canned diced tomatoes were convenient, they took more time to turn tender than hand-cut whole canned tomatoes, so we chose whole instead. Chopped cilantro finished the dish with welcome brightness. To make this dish spicier, add the chile seeds. Serve with your favorite chili garnishes.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and bell pepper and cook until vegetables are softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in jalapeño, garlic, chili powder, mustard seeds, chipotle, cumin, and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir remaining 1 cup broth, beans, mushrooms, and bay leaf into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
3. Discard bay leaf. Transfer ½ cup cooked beans to bowl and mash with potato masher until mostly smooth. Stir mashed beans and tomatoes into chili and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Tomato paste and just a little heavy cream give the sauce for this Italian classic the right richness and texture.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Classic chicken pomodoro features tender chicken braised in a rich tomato sauce; gently simmering the chicken in the sauce helps it remain moist while enriching the flavors of both. It should be perfectly suited for the slow cooker, but most slow-cooker recipes result in a dull, waterlogged dish. For a pomodoro recipe with assertive tomato flavor, we’d need to perfect the sauce. Both fresh tomatoes and canned diced tomatoes released too much liquid during cooking. Compounded with the juices from the chicken, they created a thin, dull sauce. Switching to tomato paste proved to be the answer; the thick, concentrated paste, thinned with a little heavy cream and the chicken’s juices, gave our sauce the perfect consistency and bold tomato flavor. Finishing the sauce with Parmesan contributed a nutty flavor, and a sprinkling of fresh basil tied it all together. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Microwave onion, tomato paste, garlic, oil, oregano, ¼ teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in cream. Season chicken with salt and pepper and arrange in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Sprinkle chicken with Parmesan, cover, and let sit until cheese is melted, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with basil and serve.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For juicy and tender chicken breasts with a complexly aromatic Thai curry sauce, we developed a technique that resulted in big flavor—but with just a small amount of hands-on time. We added unsweetened shredded coconut to a small amount of Thai red curry paste, shallot, garlic, and chicken broth to flavor the chicken and create a wonderful sauce for our dish. As the coconut cooked, it became tender and added richness to the cooking liquid. Pureeing the coconut mixture after cooking gave us a vibrant and flavorful accompaniment with the perfect consistency. We stirred a small amount of fresh basil into the sauce at the end, which helped to bring the flavors to life. Using flaked coconut will yield a thicker sauce. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Microwave shallot, curry paste, oil, and garlic in bowl, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth and coconut. Season chicken with salt and pepper and arrange in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to individual plates, brushing any coconut that sticks to breasts back into slow cooker. Process cooking liquid in blender until almost smooth, about 30 seconds. Stir basil into sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over chicken and serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Unsweetened Shredded Coconut
There are two types of shredded coconut—sweetened and unsweetened. We save the sweetened stuff to use as a form of added sugar in desserts like macaroons or coconut cake, and use the unsweetened variety when we want to maximize coconut flavor without making the recipe too sweet. In a tasting of four nationally available brands of unsweetened coconut, tasters found little to complain about in terms of flavor. Coconut has plenty of natural sugar, and all the products were slightly sweet, with tropical, nutty notes. There was, however, a larger disparity in texture. Tasters preferred shreds that were visibly larger, especially when used in recipes.
Top-ranked shreds weren’t just larger; they were also more uniform in shape and size; we did a sifting test to prove it. We found that large, uniformly shaped shreds made for better, prettier pies and icing. Our winner was NOW Real Food Organic Unsweetened Coconut, Shredded; it had a strong coconut flavor and thick, fibrous pieces.
Orange-Tarragon Chicken with Potatoes and Carrots
A tarragon vinaigrette, drizzled over the chicken and vegetables, elevates this humble slow-cooker dinner.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chicken and potatoes are classic, easy weeknight fare, offering endless variations. We knew that, with enough ingenuity, this combination could make a successful transition out of the oven and into the slow cooker. We started by using the microwave to bloom an aromatic oil mixture, then letting it cool slightly before rubbing it directly onto bone-in chicken breasts (skin removed) for a big flavor boost. Microwaving the potatoes, along with some carrots, before placing them in the bottom of the slow cooker ensured that our vegetables would be fully tender when the chicken finished cooking. Once our chicken and vegetables were perfectly cooked, we whisked together tarragon and fresh orange juice for a sweet and herbal pantry-friendly dressing, creating a simple and satisfying slow-cooker meal with a vibrant appeal. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the chicken’s temperature after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 160 degrees.
1. Microwave 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, thyme, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in small bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; let cool slightly.
2. Toss potatoes and carrots with 1 tablespoon oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in large bowl. Cover vegetables and microwave, stirring occasionally, until almost tender, 6 to 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Rub chicken with oil mixture and arrange skinned side up in even layer in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken registers 160 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
3. Whisk remaining 3 tablespoons oil, tarragon, vinegar, mustard, and orange zest and juice together in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer chicken to individual plates. Using slotted spoon, transfer potatoes and carrots to plates; discard cooking liquid. Drizzle chicken and vegetables with dressing and serve.
Braised Chicken Thighs with Garlicky Spinach
We wilt the spinach, weighted down by the chicken, at the end of cooking—just long enough to pick up deep flavor.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A specialty from the Catalonian region of Spain, this dish of sautéed spinach with garlic, raisins, and pine nuts is a simple yet satisfying combination of flavors and textures. To create a complete meal in the slow cooker inspired by this traditional tapas plate, we braised chicken thighs in an aromatic mixture of onion, garlic, and sweet paprika, along with a bit of tomato paste for depth. We then used the flavorful braising liquid to wilt the spinach and meld all of the flavors. Quick-cooking, delicate spinach may not seem like a good match for the slow cooker, but by adding it for just 20 minutes at the end of cooking, we had perfectly tender spinach without all of the oil typically needed for sautéing. We placed the cooked thighs on top of the spinach as the leaves cooked, which both kept the chicken warm and moist, and weighted down the spinach so it stayed submerged in the liquid.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, tomato paste, oil, paprika, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth. Season chicken with salt and pepper, nestle into slow cooker, and turn to coat with onion mixture. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to plate. Stir spinach, 1 handful at a time, into slow cooker until slightly wilted. Stir in raisins, then arrange chicken on top of spinach, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook on high until spinach is fully wilted, about 20 minutes.
3. Transfer chicken to individual plates. Stir lemon juice and pine nuts into spinach and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chicken and spinach with lemon wedges.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Storing Baby Spinach
Baby spinach is sold in bags and plastic containers of various sizes. If you happen to have leftover spinach, store it either in its original bag with the open end folded over and taped shut, or in its original plastic container, as long as it has holes that allow air to pass through. These specially designed breathable bags and containers keep the spinach fresh as long as possible; if you transfer the spinach to a sealed airtight bag or container, it will spoil prematurely.
Southern Chicken and Dirty Rice
For flavorful dirty rice we microwave the rice with the aromatics and bacon before adding it to the slow cooker.
SERVES 2
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS In the South, chicken is often paired with dirty rice—a side dish incorporating cured meats, vegetables, and seasonings that give the rice a “dirty” appearance. We wanted to transform this duo into a scaled-down slow-cooker casserole—we thought the moist environment would give all the robust flavors a chance to meld, for a richer-tasting dish overall. For the chicken, we selected bone-in thighs, which stayed moist even after a few hours of cooking. Onion, bell pepper, and garlic, plus some chili powder and thyme, provided a flavorful backbone, and microwaving the mix with bacon gave it a meaty, smoky depth and richness. Instant rice cooked up perfectly while absorbing the rich flavors of the broth, and, finally, sliced scallion added a touch of color and freshness. Be sure to use instant rice (sometimes labeled minute rice); traditional rice takes much longer to cook and won’t work here.
1. Microwave onion, bell pepper, celery, bacon, garlic, chili powder, and thyme in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to plate. Stir rice into slow cooker. Arrange chicken on top of rice, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook on high until rice is tender, 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Transfer chicken to individual plates. Stir scallion into rice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chicken with rice.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To make a meal that would really satisfy, we braised juicy steaks in the slow cooker until they were meltingly tender and paired them with rich, smoky baked beans. We found that blade steaks were ideal for this dish because they have a relatively high and even distribution of fat; after hours of simmering in the slow cooker, the steaks were supremely moist and tender. We got a head start on our beans by using canned baked beans, which already had great sweet and smoky flavor. To give them more depth, we enhanced their flavor with barbecue sauce, molasses, and Dijon. The rich flavors of the meat and the saucy beans melded as they cooked to give us a hearty steak and baked beans supper. You can substitute an equal amount of beef flat-iron steaks, if desired.
1. Combine beans, barbecue sauce, molasses, and mustard in slow cooker. Season steaks with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Transfer steaks to individual plates. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of beans. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve steaks with beans.
Asian-Style Braised Short Ribs
It takes mere minutes to get these short ribs into the slow cooker, and they cook all day in the hoisin-based sauce.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a boldly flavored, ultrasatisfying dinner for two, we slow-cooked short ribs until meltingly tender in an Asian-style sauce that tasted sweet, spicy, and savory all at once. The well-marbled ribs cooked down significantly, so to compensate we started with over a pound of ribs for two diners. The duo of hoisin sauce and chili-garlic sauce provided an intensely flavored sauce with a nice sweetness and subtle heat, and a small pour of chicken broth worked to thin the mixture slightly. To ensure an extra-clingy sauce by the end of the cooking time, we stirred in 2 teaspoons of tapioca. Minced scallion whites gave the sauce an aromatic presence. Once the ribs were tender, we took them out and let them rest while we defatted the sauce. A sprinkle of scallion greens over the finished dish added freshness and a burst of color. Look for boneless short ribs that are well marbled and measure about 2 inches wide and 1 inch thick.
1. Combine broth, hoisin, scallion whites, chili-garlic sauce, and tapioca in slow cooker. Season short ribs with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Transfer short ribs to individual plates, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Spoon sauce over short ribs and sprinkle with scallion greens. Serve.
SERVES 2
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a lighter yet still hearty version of smothered pork chops, we traded in the usual bacon and buttery gravy for Golden Delicious apples, which held their shape but became tender and saucy in the slow cooker. To deliver the best flavor, we sautéed the apples and onion until they were softened and caramelized, then created a thickened sauce with flour and a little bit of chicken broth. Worcestershire sauce tempered the sweetness of the apples and deepened the flavor of the sauce. To get the tender chops we wanted, ¾-inch blade-cut pork chops were crucial. Because they contain more fat than other center-cut chops, they could handle hours of braising in the slow cooker without drying out. We nestled the chops in the apple mixture, and the juices released by the cooking apples and onion braised the chops, adding deep flavor. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add apples and onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir Worcestershire and bay leaf into slow cooker. Cut 2 slits about 2 inches apart through fat on edges of each pork chop. Season chops with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
3. Transfer chops to individual plates, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Discard bay leaf. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in parsley and vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over chops and serve.
SIMPLE SIDES
BUTTERMILK MASHED POTATOES
SERVES 2
For the smoothest mashed potatoes, use a food mill or potato ricer. This recipe can be easily doubled.
1. Place potatoes in large saucepan and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring water to boil, then reduce to simmer and cook until potatoes are tender and paring knife can be inserted into potatoes with no resistance, 12 to 15 minutes.
2. Drain potatoes in colander, tossing to remove any excess water. Wipe now-empty saucepan dry with paper towels. Return potatoes to pot and mash to uniform consistency, or process through food mill or ricer and back into dry pot.
3. Using rubber spatula, fold in melted butter until just incorporated, then fold in buttermilk. Adjust consistency with extra buttermilk as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Pork Tenderloin with Spiced Bulgur Salad
Pomegranate seeds and mint are added to this bulgur salad just before serving, while a bright vinaigrette unites the dish.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Bulgur, a staple in Middle Eastern cooking, is a relatively fast-cooking grain, making it a particularly good choice to accompany a pork tenderloin in the slow cooker. We seasoned the pork with warm spices and cooked it in the slow cooker along with the bulgur until both were perfectly tender, the gentle cooking environment preserving the pork’s moisture. To transform the bulgur into a satisfying side dish, we stirred in tart pomegranate seeds and fresh mint. When shopping, don’t confuse bulgur with cracked wheat, which has a much longer cooking time and will not work in this recipe. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Because it is cooked gently and not browned, the tenderloin will be rosy throughout. Check the tenderloin’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 145 degrees.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave shallot, 1 teaspoon oil, garlic, cinnamon, and cayenne in bowl until fragrant, about 30 seconds; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in broth and bulgur.
2. Season tenderloin with salt and pepper. Nestle tenderloin into slow cooker, cover, and cook until pork registers 145 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on low.
3. Transfer pork to carving board, brushing any bulgur that sticks to pork back into slow cooker; let rest while finishing salad.
4. Drain bulgur mixture, if necessary, and return to now-empty slow cooker. Add pomegranate seeds and mint and fluff with fork to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Whisk lemon juice, molasses, honey, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil together in bowl. Slice tenderloin ¼ inch thick. Serve pork with bulgur salad and dressing.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Bulgur
Bulgur is made from parboiled or steamed wheat kernels/berries that are then dried, partially stripped of their outer bran layer, and ground. The result of this process is a relatively fast-cooking, highly nutritious grain that can be used in a variety of applications. Medium-grind bulgur is the most widely available size and our preferred choice for slow-cooker recipes because it cooks evenly and maintains its shape. Don’t confuse bulgur with cracked wheat, which is often sold alongside bulgur but is not parcooked. Be sure to rinse bulgur to remove excess starches that can turn the grain gluey.
For a bright, glossy finish, these ribs are brushed with a glaze made with apricot preserves and then run under the broiler.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chinese-style sweet-and-sour ribs are a party favorite, but we wanted to scale this irresistible dish down for two. Leaving the membrane attached to the underside of our baby back ribs helped the rack hold together as it cooked and, as a bonus, shortened our prep time. Rubbing the ribs with a mixture of garlic powder and ground ginger infused them with flavor. Once the ribs were tender, we brushed them with a tangy sauce and broiled them to develop a caramelized, lightly charred exterior. Avoid racks of baby back ribs that are larger than 2 pounds; they will be difficult to maneuver into the slow cooker.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine garlic powder, ginger, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper in bowl. Pat ribs dry with paper towels and rub with spice mixture.
2. Arrange ribs meaty side down along bottom of prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook until ribs are just tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
3. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray. Transfer ribs meaty side up to prepared rack; let sit until surface is dry, about 10 minutes.
4. Whisk preserves, ketchup, soy sauce, and vinegar together in bowl. Brush ribs with half of sauce and broil until sauce is bubbling and beginning to char, about 5 minutes. Brush ribs with remaining sauce, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut ribs in between bones to separate. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve.
ARRANGING A SINGLE RACK OF RIBS
Arrange rack with meaty side down across bottom of slow cooker (ends of rack will come up against sides).
SERVES 2 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Pulled pork is a cookout classic. To revamp the dish for two, we ditched the usual pork shoulder in favor of boneless country-style ribs, which are easy to purchase in smaller quantities; plus, the cut has plenty of marbling, which keeps the meat tender. Bottled barbecue sauce ensured that our recipe was effortless, since we didn’t have to bother assembling umpteen ingredients for a simple sauce. To guarantee that our pork offered the big flavor of authentic recipes, we applied a dry spice rub made from brown sugar, paprika, and chili powder. Two slices of bacon, tossed into the slow cooker whole, infused the pork with smoky flavor. Adding the leftover braising liquid to the barbecue sauce enhanced its flavor and contributed meaty depth and richness. Look for country-style pork ribs with lots of fat and dark meat, and stay away from ribs that look overly lean with pale meat, as they will taste very dry after the extended cooking time. Don’t shred the pork too fine in step 2; it will break up more as it is combined with the sauce. Serve on soft buns with pickle chips.
1. Combine broth and bacon in slow cooker. Combine sugar, paprika, chili powder, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Pat ribs dry with paper towels and rub with spice mixture. Nestle ribs into slow cooker, cover, and cook until pork is tender, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Transfer ribs to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat.
3. Discard bacon. Transfer cooking liquid to fat separator and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk ½ cup defatted liquid and barbecue sauce together in serving bowl. Toss pork with ½ cup sauce in now-empty slow cooker and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing remaining sauce separately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Bottled Barbecue Sauce
Store-bought barbecue sauces can be a great timesaver, but which one is best? We held a blind taste test to find out.
Sauces that tasted strongly of tomato were preferred to those that were simply sweet. Spices ranged broadly, and tasters most liked those that exhibited bold spiciness balanced by smoky flavor. Tasters objected as much to thin, soupy sauces as they did to overly thick, gloppy sauces. Bull’s-Eye Original BBQ Sauce was generally well liked by tasters, despite a heavy smokiness that some thought was overpowering.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Poaching is a gentle cooking method that promises to deliver tender, delicately flavored salmon, thanks to a longer stint in a moist, gentle cooking environment. Rather than poach our salmon on the stovetop, where we’d have to carefully monitor the heat level, we decided to move this dish to the slow cooker to take advantage of its walk-away convenience. We started with two salmon fillets and kept the flavor profile simple, pairing our fish with lemon and dill for subtle flavor. To prevent the bottom of our salmon from overcooking, we rested our fillets on lemon slices and dill stems, then added a small amount of wine and water to the slow cooker to create a moist cooking environment. A foil sling made it easy to remove the delicate salmon from the slow cooker without the fillets breaking apart. For a simple serving sauce, we combined sour cream and Dijon mustard with more lemon and dill. Look for salmon fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. Leave the skin on the salmon to keep the bottom of the fillets from overcooking and to make it easier to skin the fillets once done. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil sling. Check the salmon’s temperature after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 135 degrees.
1. Fold sheet of aluminum foil into 12 by 9-inch sling and press widthwise into slow cooker. Arrange lemon slices in single layer in bottom of prepared slow cooker. Scatter dill stems over lemon slices. Add wine to slow cooker, then add water until liquid level is even with lemon slices (about ¼ cup). Season salmon with salt and pepper and arrange skin side down in even layer on top of herb stems. Cover and cook until salmon is opaque throughout when checked with tip of paring knife and registers 135 degrees (for medium), 1 to 2 hours on low.
2. Combine lemon juice, minced dill, sour cream, and mustard in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Using sling, transfer salmon to baking sheet. Gently lift and tilt fillets with spatula to remove dill stems and lemon slices; transfer to serving dish. Discard poaching liquid and remove any white albumin from salmon. Serve with sauce.
Braised Halibut with Leeks and Mustard
We use the slow cooker to create a French-inspired leek and cream sauce then poach the halibut to perfection in it.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The slow cooker is known for its prowess with conventional meat braises and hearty stews, but we knew its moist, gently heated environment also makes it the perfect cooking vessel for braising fish. We found it produced moist, succulent fish, and when we used just a small amount of flavorful cooking liquid and combined it with the juices released by the fish, we also had a potent sauce on the fly. We started with our sauce, choosing a classic, beautifully balanced combination of leeks, cream, and wine. After the leeks had softened, and sweetened and thickened our sauce, we added our fish, choosing halibut for its delicate flavor and firm texture. We finished off our rich sauce with a substantial hit of mustard and some bright fresh parsley for a slow-cooker braise that was anything but conventional. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Look for halibut fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. Sea bass is a good substitute for the halibut.
1. Microwave leeks, butter, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until leeks are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in wine and cream, cover, and cook until leeks are tender but not mushy, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Season halibut with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook on high until halibut flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, about 30 minutes.
3. Transfer halibut to individual plates. Stir parsley and mustard into leek mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over halibut. Serve with lemon wedges.
SIMPLE SIDES
SIMPLE WHITE RICE
SERVES 2
Basmati, jasmine, or Texmati rice can be substituted for the long-grain white rice. You will need a small saucepan with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe. A nonstick saucepan will help prevent the rice from sticking.
1. Heat oil in small saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add rice and cook, stirring often, until grain edges begin to turn translucent, about 2 minutes. Stir in water and ¼ teaspoon salt and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and continue to simmer until rice is tender and all water is absorbed, 16 to 18 minutes.
2. Remove pot from heat and lay clean folded dish towel underneath lid. Let sit for 10 minutes. Fluff rice with fork, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.
SERVES 2
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We love saffron, with its bright yellow hue and distinctive aroma, and we especially love it paired with seafood. The Spanish have an especially rich tradition with this pairing, so we looked to that country for inspiration. Versatile cod is a favorite white fish in Spain, and its mild flavor was the perfect backdrop for the saffron. We created a flavorful saffron broth with aromatics, white wine, and clam juice. For additional flavor, we added spicy Spanish-style chorizo, lending a subtle heat and smoky flavor to the broth. Waxy red potatoes brought in just the right creaminess to soak up the flavorful broth. A sprinkle of parsley and a drizzle of olive oil brought it all together. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Look for cod fillets of similar thickness to ensure that they cook at the same rate. Haddock and hake are good substitutes for the cod. Serve with crusty bread.
1. Microwave oil, chorizo, shallot, garlic, and saffron in bowl, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in potatoes, clam juice, wine, and bay leaf. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Season cod with pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook on high until cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and registers 140 degrees, about 30 minutes.
3. Discard bay leaf. Using slotted spoon, carefully transfer cod, potatoes, and chorizo to individual bowls. Season broth with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon broth over cod, chorizo, and potatoes, sprinkle with parsley, and drizzle with extra oil. Serve with lemon wedges.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Saffron
Sometimes known as “red gold,” saffron is the world’s most expensive spice. It’s made from the dried stigmas of the Crocus sativus flower, which must be harvested by hand in a painstaking process.
Luckily, a little saffron goes a long way, adding a distinct reddish-gold color, notes of honey and grass, and a slight hint of bitterness to dishes like bouillabaisse, paella, and risotto. The saffron you find in the supermarket is usually Spanish. We held a small tasting of broths infused with different saffron samples. The reddest threads yielded intensely flavorful, heady, perfumed broths. So, when shopping, go for the red, that is, saffron with no spots of yellow or orange. Or, to save money, a good-quality powdered saffron would be just as flavorful and fragrant as the threads.
We love the economy of this recipe, with the aromatics being microwaved and used in both the sauce and the meatballs.
MAKES 6 MEATBALLS AND 2½ CUPS SAUCE; ENOUGH FOR 8 OUNCES PASTA
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Our slow-cooker version of meatballs and marinara involves some prep work, but once everything is in the slow cooker, you’ve bought yourself hours of freedom with the promise of a great dinner waiting in the wings. To build a sauce with long-simmered flavor, we started by microwaving onion, tomato paste, garlic, and oregano. Clean-flavored crushed tomatoes were all we needed to add to this base. For the meatballs, a combination of ground beef, some of the sautéed aromatics, Parmesan, and parsley was a solid start, but they were still a bit dry. Adding a panade— a paste of bread and water—provided the moisture they needed. Microwaving the meatballs before adding them to the slow cooker helped render just enough fat to ensure that our sauce wasn’t greasy.
1. Microwave onion, tomato paste, oil, garlic, and oregano in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer half of onion mixture to slow cooker.
2. Add bread, water, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper to remaining onion mixture in bowl and mash into paste using fork. Stir in Parmesan, parsley, and egg yolk until combined. Add ground beef and knead with hands until well combined. Pinch off and roll mixture into 2-inch meatballs (about 6 meatballs) and arrange on large plate. Microwave meatballs until firm and no longer pink, about 5 minutes; discard rendered fat.
3. Add tomatoes and ¼ teaspoon salt to slow cooker. Gently nestle meatballs into slow cooker, cover, and cook until meatballs are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low. Stir in basil and sugar. Season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Serve.
MAKES 2½ CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 8 OUNCES PASTA EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a fresh tomato sauce any time of the year, we turned to cherry tomatoes, which are reliably sweet even in the dead of winter. What we love about this recipe is how easy it is to assemble, as slow-cooked cherry tomatoes, when combined with lots of fresh herbs, needed little embellishment. First, we simply microwaved the aromatics—onion, garlic, and oregano—with tomato paste and a little oil until softened and added them to the slow cooker along with halved cherry tomatoes. In the slow cooker, the tomatoes collapsed and softened, becoming even sweeter and more flavorful as they absorbed some of the flavor of the aromatics. To ensure that our sauce had the right texture, we added a little tapioca. Still, the sauce wasn’t quite thick enough, which wasn’t surprising given that the slow cooker allows for almost no evaporation, so at the end of the cooking time we simply mashed the tomatoes a little with a potato masher. To finish, we added a dose of basil and parsley for freshness.
1. Microwave onion, tomato paste, garlic, oil, oregano, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes and tapioca. Cover and cook until tomatoes are very soft and beginning to disintegrate, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Using potato masher, mash tomatoes until mostly smooth. Stir in basil and parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Enriched with goat cheese, dried cranberries, and aromatics, the quinoa filling for this squash is anything but dull.
SERVES 2 VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a simple stuffed squash recipe, we started with halved acorn squash and quinoa. To ensure that we achieved both tender squash and a perfectly cooked filling, we precooked the quinoa in the microwave. Shallot, garlic, and thyme added savory notes to the filling, and a small amount of goat cheese added a pleasant tang and richness. Dried cranberries complemented the nutty flavor of the quinoa and added a pop of color to the mixture. Once the squash halves were filled, we placed them in the slow cooker with a small amount of water to help them steam, and in just a few hours we had perfectly tender squash. A sprinkling of toasted pecans added a welcome crunch, and minced tarragon brought an herbal freshness. If you buy unwashed quinoa (or if you are unsure whether it’s washed), be sure to rinse it before cooking to remove its bitter protective coating (called saponin).
1. Microwave 1 cup water, quinoa, shallot, garlic, thyme, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until almost all water is absorbed, 7 to 10 minutes. Cover quinoa and let sit until remaining water has been absorbed, about 10 minutes. Fluff quinoa with fork, then gently fold in goat cheese and cranberries.
2. Pour ½ cup water into slow cooker. Season squash with salt and pepper. Mound quinoa mixture into squash and pack lightly with spoon. Transfer squash to slow cooker, cover, and cook until squash is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Using tongs, transfer squash to individual plates. Sprinkle with pecans and tarragon. Serve.
SERVES 2 VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A healthy whole-grain staple in Italian cooking, farro lends itself particularly well to the slow cooker. For extra-nutty flavor, we briefly toasted the grains in the microwave. Sweet, earthy carrots paired well with the nutty farro, and the dish required only the simplest of aromatics—onion, garlic, and fresh thyme—to round out the flavors. Thoroughly stirring the cooked farro with additional hot broth helped to release starches in the grains that gave the dish a pleasant creaminess. To balance the sweet, nutty flavors and boost the nutrition, we added slightly bitter Swiss chard. Since it required minimal cooking time, we stirred in the chard near the end of cooking so that it would turn just tender but retain its brightness. We prefer the flavor and texture of whole farro; pearled farro can be used, but the texture may be softer. Do not use quick-cooking or presteamed farro (the ingredient list on the package will specify the type) in this recipe.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, farro, oil, garlic, and thyme in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Microwave 1½ cups broth in now-empty bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth and carrots into slow cooker. Cover and cook until farro is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Microwave remaining ½ cup broth in bowl until steaming, about 2 minutes. Stir broth and Parmesan into farro until mixture is creamy but still somewhat thin. Stir in chard, 1 handful at a time, until slightly wilted. Cover and cook on high until chard is softened, about 20 minutes.
4. Adjust farro consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle individual portions with extra oil before serving.
Southwestern Lentil and Bean Salad
This foolproof, hands-off method for cooking lentils in the slow cooker makes assembling this bright salad supereasy.
SERVES 2 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 3½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The most important step in making a lentil salad is perfecting the cooking of the lentils so they maintain their shape and firm-tender bite. Adding a little salt and lime juice to the cooking liquid (we used water) gave us lentils that were firm yet creamy. Once we had perfectly cooked lentils, all we had left to do was to pair the healthy legumes with boldly flavored ingredients. We chose spicy chipotles in adobo sauce and earthy oregano and enhanced the Southwestern flavors at the end by adding corn, tomatoes, more lime juice, and queso fresco. To make this dish even heartier, we added canned pinto beans to the lentils. Fresh cilantro leaves and pepitas added brightness and crunch. We prefer French green lentils (lentilles du Puy), but this recipe will work with any type of lentil except red or yellow. For a heartier dish, serve over mixed greens.
1. Combine 4 cups water, lentils, 1 tablespoon lime juice, garlic, ¾ teaspoon salt, and bay leaf in slow cooker. Cover and cook until lentils are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Discard bay leaf. Drain lentils and transfer to serving bowl. Stir in beans, tomatoes, corn, cilantro, shallot, oil, chipotle, oregano, ¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with queso fresco and pepitas. Serve.
CHAPTER 9
Indian-Style Vegetable Curry ■
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■
Thai Braised Butternut Squash with Tofu ■ ■
Summer Barley Salad ■ ■ ■
Quinoa, Black Bean, and Mango Salad ■ ■ ■
Beet and Wheat Berry Salad with Arugula and Apples ■ ■ ■ ■
Mediterranean Lentil Salad ■ ■
Spiced Lentil Salad with Cauliflower and Pomegranate ■ ■
Lentil Salad with Radishes, Cilantro, and Pepitas ■ ■
Lentil Salad with Dill, Orange, and Spinach ■ ■
Curried Lentil Salad with Kale ■ ■
Mustard Greens and Sweet Potato Tacos ■
Stuffed Spiced Eggplants with Tomatoes and Pine Nuts ■
Greek Quinoa and Vegetable Lettuce Cups ■ ■
Farro Risotto with Carrots and Goat Cheese ■ ■
Farro Primavera ■ ■
Rustic Braised Lentils with Eggplant ■ ■
Southwestern Black Bean and Bulgur Bowls ■ ■ ■
Red Beans and Rice with Okra and Tomatoes ■ ■ ■ ■
SIMPLE SIDES AND ACCOMPANIMENTS
■ EASY PREP
■ VEGETARIAN
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
Tofu and potatoes are the stars of this hearty Indian curry, to which we add heated coconut milk just before serving.
SERVES 4 TO 6 VEG
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Curries are especially well suited to the slow cooker. When the ingredients have the opportunity to cook for hours, the flavors meld and the result is a bold-tasting dish with complexity. And though many curries rely on chicken or shrimp for their centerpiece, swapping in tofu ensured an equally satisfying curry—plus, the tofu didn’t require any extra prep. For a flavor-packed dish, we included a full tablespoon each of curry powder and grated fresh ginger, along with some fragrant garam masala. Blooming the aromatics in the microwave helped to intensify their flavors. For more savory depth, we included tomato paste; cubed red potatoes contributed heartiness. Precut frozen green beans added bulk and needed zero prep. For a rich, velvety sauce, we stirred in coconut milk; heating it in the microwave and adding it toward the end of cooking prevented it from cooling down our curry and preserved its flavor. Finally, minced cilantro offered a touch of color and freshness. You can use firm tofu here if desired, but do not substitute softer varieties such as silken tofu; these varieties will break down during cooking.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, oil, ginger, tomato paste, curry powder, garam masala, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, potatoes, tofu, and tapioca. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Microwave coconut milk in bowl, whisking occasionally, until hot, about 3 minutes. Stir coconut milk and green beans into curry and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Tofu
Although freshly made tofu is common across the Pacific, in the United States tofu is typically sold in blocks packed in water and can be found in the refrigerated section of supermarkets. Tofu is available in a variety of textures, including silken, firm, and extra-firm. We prefer the latter two in our slow-cooker stews and braises because the tofu holds its shape well in the slow cooker. Like dairy products, tofu is perishable and should be kept well chilled. If you want to keep an open package of tofu fresh for several days, cover the tofu with fresh water and store it in the refrigerator in an airtight container, changing the water daily.
This fragrant Moroccan tagine makes great use of dried chickpeas, which require no presoaking.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This Moroccan-style stew gets its complex flavor from a combination of sweet paprika and garam masala (a blend of warm spices), along with onions, garlic, and orange zest, all of which perfume the sauce. Since many vegetables would be obliterated after hours in a slow cooker, we opted to stir in softened bell peppers and jarred artichokes at the end, cooking them just enough to heat through. To continue with the Mediterranean flavor profile, we added chopped kalamata olives and Greek yogurt to the stew. Golden raisins and honey added a touch of sweetness, while fresh cilantro brightened up the dish before serving. While we prefer the flavor and texture of jarred whole baby artichokes, you can substitute 12 ounces frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry, for the jarred.
1. Microwave onions, 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, paprika, and garam masala in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, water, chickpeas, and orange zest. Cover and cook until chickpeas are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Microwave bell peppers with remaining 1 tablespoon oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Discard orange zest. Stir bell peppers, artichokes, olives, and raisins into tagine. Cover and cook on high until heated through, about 10 minutes.
3. Whisk ½ cup hot cooking liquid and yogurt together in bowl (to temper), then stir mixture back into slow cooker. Stir in cilantro and honey. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, drizzling individual portions with extra oil.
MAKING CITRUS ZEST STRIPS
Using vegetable peeler, remove strips of zest from citrus, making sure to avoid bitter-tasting white pith.
SIMPLE SIDES
FOOLPROOF BAKED BROWN RICE
SERVES 4 TO 6
To minimize any loss of water through evaporation, cover the saucepan and use the water as soon as it reaches a boil. An 8-inch square ceramic baking dish with a lid may be used instead of the glass baking dish and aluminum foil. To double the recipe, use a 13 by 9-inch baking dish; the baking time does not need to be increased. You can use long-, medium-, or short-grain brown rice for this recipe.
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Spread rice in 8-inch square baking dish.
2. Bring water and butter to boil, covered, in medium saucepan. Once boiling, immediately stir in salt and pour water mixture over rice in dish. Cover dish tightly with 2 layers of aluminum foil. Transfer dish to oven and bake until tender, about 1 hour.
3. Remove dish from oven and uncover. Fluff rice with fork, then cover dish with dish towel and let rice stand for 5 minutes. Uncover and let rice stand 5 minutes longer. Serve immediately.
Thai Braised Butternut Squash with Tofu
Chunks of butternut squash and tofu soak up the aromatic broth infused with Thai red curry paste.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this easy-to-make main dish, we braised tofu and chunks of butternut squash in a highly aromatic liquid base. Making sure this braising medium was loaded with flavor was key since tofu tends to absorb liquid as it cooks. We turned to a trio of aromatics (onion, ginger, and garlic), along with Thai red curry paste, and bloomed it all in the microwave to meld the flavors. At the end of the cooking time, we took this dish to the next level by adding coconut milk, lime juice, and cilantro. You can use firm tofu here if desired, but do not substitute softer varieties such as silken tofu; these varieties will break down during cooking.
1. Microwave onion, curry paste, 1 tablespoon ginger, garlic, and 1 tablespoon oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in squash, tofu, broth, and tapioca. Cover and cook until squash is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Microwave bell pepper with remaining 1 teaspoon oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir bell pepper, coconut milk, lime juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon ginger into slow cooker. Cover and cook on high until heated through, about 10 minutes.
3. Adjust sauce consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt, pepper, and extra lime juice to taste. Sprinkle individual portions with cilantro and peanuts before serving.
The base of this salad, tender barley infused with aromatics, cooks for hours in the slow cooker.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To showcase the appealingly nutty taste of barley, we kept the flavors simple—just lemon and coriander—and constructed a salad that paired the barley with piles of fresh veggies and a yogurt-herb dressing. To get perfectly cooked barley, we needed to find the right liquid-to-barley ratio for the slow cooker. After a few tests, we found that 2¼ cups water to 1 cup barley produced barley that was cooked through once all the water had been absorbed, while leaving the texture still on the soft side. <Does this wording jibe clearly enough with the steps, which indicate that this may be too much water (it specifies to drain the barley “if needed”)? Also wondering if water should be on IL (deleting amount in steps) as is usual for recipes in which grains are cooked (including water on IL is specified in style guide for rice). Reducing the amount of liquid wasn’t an option because it resulted in unevenly cooked barley. To maintain a bit of the grains’ toothsome structure and ensure even cooking, we briefly toasted the barley in the microwave before adding it to the slow cooker. Do not substitute hulled, hull-less, quick-cooking, or presteamed barley (read the ingredient list on the package to determine this) in this recipe.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave barley, 1 tablespoon oil, and coriander in bowl, stirring occasionally, until barley is lightly toasted and fragrant, about 3 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in 2¼ cups water, 2 teaspoons lemon zest, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until barley is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Drain barley, if needed, and transfer to large serving bowl; let cool slightly. Using vegetable peeler or mandoline, shave squash lengthwise into very thin ribbons. Add squash ribbons, tomatoes, and parsley to bowl with barley and gently toss to combine.
3. Whisk yogurt, chives, garlic, lemon juice, ¼ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and remaining 1 teaspoon lemon zest together in separate bowl. Add dressing to salad and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
MAKING SQUASH RIBBONS
Using vegetable peeler or mandoline, shave summer squash or zucchini lengthwise into very thin ribbons.
Quinoa, Black Bean, and Mango Salad
This quinoa salad couldn’t be easier to make and is quite versatile: You can serve it over greens or top with avocado.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to make a quinoa salad hearty enough for a main course while keeping it light and fresh-tasting. To ensure perfectly cooked, fluffy grains, we “toasted” the quinoa briefly in the microwave before adding it to the slow cooker. Canned black beans were an easy addition, and fresh mango and bell pepper stirred in before serving lent the salad heartiness, texture, and color. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Be sure to rinse the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer before using; rinsing removes the quinoa’s bitter protective coating (called saponins).
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave quinoa, jalapeño, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, cumin, and coriander in bowl, stirring occasionally, until quinoa is lightly toasted and fragrant, about 3 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in water, beans, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until quinoa is tender and all water is absorbed, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Fluff quinoa with fork, transfer to large serving bowl, and let cool slightly. Add bell peppers, mango, cilantro, scallions, lime juice, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil and gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
CUTTING UP A MANGO
1. Cut thin slice from 1 end of mango so that it sits flat on counter.
2. Rest mango on trimmed bottom, then cut off skin in thin strips, top to bottom.
3. Cut down along each side of flat pit to remove flesh
4. Trim around pit to remove any remaining flesh. Cut flesh as directed in recipe.
Beet and Wheat Berry Salad with Arugula and Apples
For this hearty salad, we cook the beets and wheat berries together but wrap the beets in foil for even cooking.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 6 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This hearty vegetarian entrée features nutty wheat berries, earthy beets, crisp apples, and fresh arugula, all tied together at the end with a lively vinaigrette and fresh goat cheese. The flavor of wheat berries works especially well in salads and pairs nicely with the sweet and rich beets. Even better, the wheat berries can be slowly simmered alongside the beets, which we wrapped in foil to keep the cooking even and the deep color from bleeding into the grain. Minced garlic and thyme, added right to the slow cooker, provided an aromatic backbone. Once the wheat berries were tender, we drained them and dressed them with a simple red wine vinaigrette. Baby arugula and Granny Smith apples rounded out our salad with their bitter and sweet-tart notes, respectively, and crumbled goat cheese provided a creamy, tangy counterpoint to the wheat berries and beets. To ensure even cooking, we recommend using beets that are similar in size—roughly 3 inches in diameter. If using quick-cooking or presteamed wheat berries (the ingredient list on the package specifies the type), you will need to decrease the cooking time. The wheat berries will retain a chewy texture once fully cooked.
1. Combine 5 cups water, wheat berries, garlic, thyme, and ½ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Wrap beets individually in aluminum foil and place in slow cooker. Cover and cook until wheat berries and beets are tender, 6 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Transfer beets to cutting board, open foil, and let sit until cool enough to handle. Rub off beet skins with paper towels and cut beets into ½-inch-thick wedges.
3. Drain wheat berries, transfer to large serving bowl, and let cool slightly. Add beets, apple, arugula, oil, vinegar, ½ teaspoon salt, pinch pepper, and sugar and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with goat cheese and serve.
REMOVING BEET SKINS
Once beets are cooled completely, cradle each beet in your hand with several layers of paper towels, then gently use towels to rub off skin.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS LENTIL SALADS
SERVES 4 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
A lentil salad can be a hearty, impressive, and easy main course. But all too often the lentils overcook and break down, and you are left with something resembling more of a porridge than a salad. We found that the slow and even heat of the slow cooker was the perfect solution to great lentils every time. We discovered that cooking the lentils with plenty of liquid was necessary to ensure even cooking. Also adding a little salt and vinegar to the cooking liquid (we preferred water for a pure lentil flavor) gave us lentils that were firm yet creamy. We added aromatics to the cooking water for a flavorful backbone during cooking. Once the lentils were cooked to the ideal texture and drained, we added fresh and bright ingredients to create big flavor that turned this dish into a hearty main vegetarian course. We prefer French green lentils (lentilles du Puy) for this recipe, but it will work with any type of lentil except red or yellow.
1 MEDITERRANEAN LENTIL SALAD
1. Combine 4 cups water, lentils, 1 tablespoon vinegar, garlic, herbes de Provence, bay leaf, and ¾ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Cover and cook until lentils are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Drain lentils, discarding bay leaf, and transfer to large serving bowl; let cool slightly. Add chickpeas, tomatoes, parsley, oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining 1½ tablespoons vinegar; gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with feta and serve.
2 SPICED LENTIL SALAD WITH CAULIFLOWER AND POMEGRANATE
1. Combine 4 cups water, lentils, ginger, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, garlic, cumin, cinnamon, ¾ teaspoon salt, and cayenne in slow cooker. Cover and cook until lentils are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Microwave cauliflower and 2 tablespoons water in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until cauliflower is tender, about 3 minutes. Drain cauliflower.
3. Drain lentils, discarding ginger, and transfer to large serving bowl; let cool slightly. Add cauliflower, pomegranate seeds, oil, parsley, scallions, honey, ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice; gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
3 LENTIL SALAD WITH RADISHES, CILANTRO, AND PEPITAS
1. Combine 4 cups water, lentils, 1 tablespoon lime juice, garlic, cumin, oregano, and ¾ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Cover and cook until lentils are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Drain lentils and transfer to large serving bowl; let cool slightly. Add radishes, bell pepper, cilantro, oil, jalapeño, shallot, ¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice; gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with pepitas and queso fresco. Serve.
4 LENTIL SALAD WITH DILL, ORANGE, AND SPINACH
1. Combine 4 cups water, lentils, 1 tablespoon vinegar, garlic, orange zest, bay leaf, and ¾ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Cover and cook until lentils are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Cut away peel and pith from oranges. Cut oranges into 8 wedges, then slice wedges crosswise into ¼-inch-thick pieces.
3. Drain lentils, discarding orange zest and bay leaf, and transfer to large serving bowl; let cool slightly. Add oranges, along with any accumulated juices, spinach, oil, shallot, dill, ¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining 1½ tablespoons vinegar; gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with pecans. Serve.
5 CURRIED LENTIL SALAD WITH KALE
1. Combine 4 cups water, lentils, ginger, 1 tablespoon vinegar, garlic, curry powder, and ¾ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Cover and cook until lentils are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Microwave kale and 2 tablespoons water in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until kale is slightly wilted, about 5 minutes. Drain kale.
3. Drain lentils, discarding ginger, and transfer to large serving bowl; let cool slightly. Add kale, apple, oil, cilantro, ¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining 1½ tablespoons vinegar; gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with almonds. Serve.
Mustard Greens and Sweet Potato Tacos
For these appealing vegetarian tacos, the sweet potatoes need to be wrapped in foil so they hold their shape.
SERVES 4 VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS It’s easy to get stuck in a rut when cooking vegetables, but we found that stuffing soft tacos with superfoods like mustard greens and sweet potatoes made even the most carnivorous among us excited to eat veggies. In order for the sweet potatoes to be a manageable size for folding into a taco, we cut them into ½-inch pieces. But these small pieces cooked quickly and lost their shape, so we wrapped the starchy tubers in foil to help tame the heat of the slow cooker and keep them from falling apart. The tender vegetables needed a crunchy counterpoint, so we put together some quickly pickled radishes. You can substitute an equal amount of Swiss chard for the mustard greens, if desired. Click here for more information on making a foil packet.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, oregano, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, cumin, coriander, and ¾ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in mustard greens and ½ cup water. Season sweet potatoes with salt and pepper, wrap in aluminum foil packet, and place on top of greens. Cover and cook until greens and potatoes are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Transfer foil packet to plate. Drain greens mixture and return to now-empty slow cooker. Carefully open foil packet and gently fold potatoes, along with any accumulated juices, into greens. Stir in remaining 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with tortillas, pickled radishes, and queso fresco.
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
SPICY PICKLED RADISHES
MAKES ABOUT 1¾ CUPS
These easy-to-make spicy pickled radishes are the perfect garnish for numerous Mexican dishes including stews, tacos, enchiladas, and more.
Combine all ingredients in bowl, cover, and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. (Mixture can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.)
Stuffed Spiced Eggplants with Tomatoes and Pine Nuts
The magic behind this recipe is that we make the stuffing and cook the eggplant at the same time in the slow cooker.
SERVES 4 VEG
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When cooked, eggplants turn rich and creamy, losing the bitterness they have when raw. Italian eggplants, which are slightly smaller than the ubiquitous globe eggplants, are the ideal size and shape for stuffing when halved, and two of them fit easily in a slow cooker. Inspired by the flavors of Turkey, where stuffed eggplant is a way of life, we created a simple stuffing with canned diced tomatoes, Pecorino Romano, pine nuts, and aromatics that included onion, garlic, oregano, and cinnamon. We simply nestled the halved eggplants cut side down in this fragrant mixture and let them cook until tender. After removing the eggplants from the slow cooker, we gently pushed the soft flesh to the sides to create a cavity, which we filled with the aromatic tomato mixture left behind in the slow cooker. Topped with extra cheese and fresh minced parsley, these eggplants looked beautiful and were far easier to make than most traditional versions. Be sure to buy eggplants that are no more than 10 ounces; larger eggplants will not fit properly in your slow cooker. You may need to trim off the eggplant stems to help them fit. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Microwave onion, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, oregano, cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon salt, and cayenne in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, ¾ cup Pecorino, pine nuts, and vinegar. Season eggplant halves with salt and pepper and nestle cut side down into slow cooker (eggplants may overlap slightly). Cover and cook until eggplants are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Transfer eggplant halves cut side up to serving dish. Using 2 forks, gently push eggplant flesh to sides of each half to make room for filling. Stir remaining 1 tablespoon oil into tomato mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste. Mound tomato mixture evenly into eggplants and sprinkle with parsley and remaining ¼ cup Pecorino. Serve.
PREPARING EGGPLANT FOR STUFFING
Using 2 forks, gently push flesh to sides of each eggplant half to make room in center for filling.
The layers of ingredients and flavors that define a great biryani can be easily replicated in the slow cooker.
SERVES 4 TO 6 VEG
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The best biryani recipes place fragrant long-grain basmati center stage, enriching it with fresh herbs and pungent spices. However, most recipes take time to develop deep flavor by steeping whole spices and cooking each part of the dish separately before marrying them. We aimed to achieve a simple, streamlined, and hands-free slow cooker version of this dish that delivered on the big, bold flavors we expected from a biryani, without the fuss. We chose basmati rice for its nutty flavor and perfume-like aroma. A mixture of Indian-inspired aromatics were first bloomed with oil in the microwave to jump-start flavor development. We then combined the bloomed spice blend, rice, and hot vegetable broth in our slow cooker before topping the rice with hearty, earthy mushrooms. Layering the mushrooms on top of the rice mixture ensured even cooking of the rice. We found that basmati rice cooked best on high, and placing a piece of parchment paper over the mixture prevented the grains on top from drying out as the water was absorbed, and promoted even steaming in the rice. Once the rice was cooked, fresh spinach, herbs, and raisins were added to the slow cooker before gently fluffing the rice to serve. Biryani is traditionally served with a cooling yogurt sauce; ideally, you should make it before starting the biryani to allow the flavors in the sauce to meld. We prefer the flavor of basmati rice in this recipe, but long-grain white rice can be substituted. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield.
1. FOR THE SAUCE: Combine all ingredients in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. FOR THE BIRYANI: Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, oil, garlic, garam masala, 1 teaspoon salt, turmeric, and cayenne in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
3. Microwave broth in bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth and rice into slow cooker. Spread mushrooms evenly on top of rice mixture. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of mushrooms, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until rice is tender and all broth is absorbed, 2 to 3 hours on high.
4. Discard parchment. Sprinkle spinach and raisins on top of rice, cover, and let sit until spinach is wilted, about 5 minutes. Add cilantro and mint, and fluff rice with fork until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprin kle with almonds and serve, passing sauce separately.
Greek Quinoa and Vegetable Lettuce Cups
We use the slow cooker for an easy way to make scoopable quinoa for our lettuce cups, then add the toppings.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Lettuce cups—like tortillas—are great vessels for all sorts of fillings. For a vegetarian filling that could be made in the slow cooker, we turned to quinoa and paired it with fresh vegetables and an herbaceous yogurt dressing. Since we wanted a quinoa mixture that was easy to scoop into lettuce cups, we skipped the step of toasting the quinoa in the microwave. Putting the raw quinoa into the slow cooker gave it a softer, more cohesive texture. Our creamy dressing, flavored with tangy feta cheese and fresh mint, also helped to bind the quinoa mixture. Tomatoes and cucumber added healthy bulk to the mix, and shallot added a welcome bite. We tossed the quinoa and vegetables with part of the bold dressing and reserved the rest to drizzle on once we scooped our salad into the lettuce cups. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Be sure to rinse the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer before using; rinsing removes the quinoa’s bitter protective coating (called saponins).
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave 1 tablespoon oil, oregano, and garlic in bowl until fragrant, about 1 minute; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in broth and quinoa, cover, and cook until quinoa is tender and all broth is absorbed, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Fluff quinoa with fork, transfer to large serving bowl, and let cool slightly. Combine yogurt, feta, 2 tablespoons mint, vinegar, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil in separate bowl. Add half of dressing, tomatoes, cucumber, shallot, and remaining 2 tablespoons mint to quinoa and gently toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve quinoa salad with lettuce leaves, passing remaining dressing separately.
SERVES 4 TO 6 VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Earthy and versatile, eggplant goes well with traditional Turkish spices, namely, paprika, cumin, cayenne pepper, and cinnamon. We paired eggplant, which we rubbed with a spice mixture and broiled before adding it to the slow cooker, thereby cooking off extra moisture and keeping the slices firm, with bulgur, a popular grain of the region that cooks perfectly in the steamy environment of the slow cooker. An herb-yogurt sauce added a welcome richness and tang to this spiced dish. When shopping, don’t confuse bulgur with cracked wheat, which has a much longer cooking time and will not work in this recipe. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. FOR THE SAUCE: Combine all ingredients in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. FOR THE BULGUR: Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Combine paprika, cumin, ¾ teaspoon salt, cayenne, and cinnamon in bowl. Arrange eggplant in single layer on aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet, brush both sides with 3 tablespoons oil, and sprinkle with spice mixture. Broil eggplant until softened and beginning to brown, 10 to 12 minutes, flipping eggplant halfway through broiling.
3. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, garlic, tomato paste, ¾ teaspoon salt, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in bulgur and broth. Shingle alternating slices of eggplant and tomato into 3 tightly fitting rows on top of bulgur mixture. Cover and cook until eggplant and bulgur are tender and all broth is absorbed, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high. Serve, passing sauce separately.
ASSEMBLING EGGPLANT CASSEROLE
After combining bulgur mixture in slow cooker, shingle alternating slices of eggplant and tomato into 3 tightly fitting rows on top. Vegetable rows may overlap slightly.
SERVES 4 VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Risotto usually demands a cook’s attention from start to finish, which is why this hands-off slow-cooker version is so appealing. Instead of traditional Arborio rice, we chose nutrient-rich farro and added colorful carrots. Finely grating the carrots allowed them to overcook slightly and “melt” into the farro to help create a creamy base. When the farro was tender, we stirred in handfuls of bright, fresh baby spinach. We added an extra half-cup of broth to help wilt the spinach and keep the farro from becoming dry and sticky. A little bit of tangy goat cheese was the perfect finishing touch to give our risotto rich flavor and an ultracreamy texture. We prefer the flavor and texture of whole farro; pearled farro can be used, but the texture may be softer. Do not use quick-cooking or presteamed farro (the ingredient list on the package will specify the type) in this recipe. Use the small holes of a box grater to grate the carrots.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, butter, garlic, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Microwave 2 cups broth and wine in bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth mixture, farro, and carrots into slow cooker. Cover and cook until farro is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Microwave remaining ½ cup broth in bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth and goat cheese into farro until mixture is creamy but still somewhat thin. Stir in spinach, 1 handful at a time, until slightly wilted. Cover and cook on high until spinach is completely wilted, about 15 minutes. Adjust risotto consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Nutty farro stands in for pasta in this rich-tasting dish, where the peas and asparagus are stirred in separately at the end.
SERVES 4 VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For an interesting take on pasta primavera we swapped out pasta for whole-grain farro and nixed cream in favor of nutty Parmesan. Since most of the vegetables we had in mind, except the leek, would go into the slow cooker at the end to ensure bright colors and fresh flavors, the point of using a slow cooker was the hands-off approach to perfectly cooked farro. To mellow the potent allium flavor of the leek, we gave it a head start in the microwave. Once the farro was tender, we stirred in some additional broth to help steam the asparagus in the last few minutes of cooking. Peas rounded out the spring vegetables for our primavera, and a generous portion of Parmesan cheese turned our dish creamy and rich-tasting. We prefer the flavor and texture of whole farro; pearled farro can be used, but the texture may be softer. Do not use quick-cooking or presteamed farro (the ingredient list on the package will specify the type) in this recipe.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave leek, oil, garlic, thyme, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until leek is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Microwave 2 cups broth in bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth and farro into slow cooker, cover, and cook until farro is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Microwave remaining ½ cup broth in bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth and Parmesan into farro until mixture is creamy but still somewhat thin. Stir in asparagus, cover, and cook on high until tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in peas and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust farro consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, passing extra Parmesan separately.
SERVES 4 TO 6 VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a hearty vegetarian main dish, we paired French green lentils, lentilles du Puy, with eggplant and created a braised dish overflowing with flavor. We broiled the eggplant with our aromatics to deepen its flavor and ensure that the eggplant cooked evenly and didn’t turn mushy in the slow cooker. We added cherry tomatoes because they broke down and created a fresh tomato sauce to envelop the eggplant and lentils. We found it important to put the lentils and broth in the bottom of the slow cooker so that the lentils cooked thoroughly and evenly. We then layered the broiled eggplant and fresh tomatoes on top of the lentils, and stirred it all together at the end of cooking. Some extra-virgin olive oil stirred in, plus a sprinkling of crumbled feta cheese and parsley, completed this dish with rich, bright freshness. We prefer French green lentils for this recipe, but it will work with any type of lentil except red or yellow. You will need an oval slow cooker for this dish.
1. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Toss eggplant and onion with 1 tablespoon oil, tomato paste, garlic, thyme, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl. Spread eggplant mixture evenly over prepared baking sheet. Broil until eggplant is softened and beginning to brown, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through broiling.
2. Combine broth, lentils, and 1 tablespoon vinegar in slow cooker. Spread eggplant mixture and tomatoes evenly on top of lentils. Cover and cook until lentils are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons oil and remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with feta and parsley and serve.
Southwestern Black Bean and Bulgur Bowls
This healthy bean-bulgur bowl is easy to make in a slow cooker, which is the perfect way to infuse beans with flavor.
SERVES 6 VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The low-and-slow heat of the slow cooker is ideal for cooking beans, and we wanted an easy dinner starring the protein-rich superfood black beans. To ensure perfectly cooked beans, we submerged them in 6 cups of liquid—half water and half vegetable broth—for added flavor. We infused our beans and cooking liquid with bold flavors, using garlic, cumin, and chili powder. Once the beans were perfectly tender, we stirred in bulgur for another fiber-rich element. In the slow cooker, bulgur readily absorbed the extra cooking liquid and all of its rich flavors. To add freshness and textural variety to the dish, we made a quick tomato salsa. The brightness of the salsa, along with a sprinkling of smooth queso fresco, perfectly complemented the warm beans and bulgur for a hearty and healthy vegetarian dinner. When shopping, don’t confuse bulgur with cracked wheat, which has a much longer cooking time and will not work in this recipe.
1. FOR THE SALSA: Combine all ingredients in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. FOR THE BEANS: Microwave onion, garlic, oil, cumin, and chili powder in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir broth, water, beans, and 1 teaspoon salt into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
3. Stir bulgur into beans, cover, and cook on high until bulgur is tender and most of liquid is absorbed, 20 to 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Top individual portions with salsa and queso fresco before serving.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Rather than monitor the stovetop for an hour or two so we could enjoy this Cajun classic, we moved it to the slow cooker, where the moist environment and gentle heat could turn our red beans tender and creamy without a lot of effort. Though the beans cooked through perfectly with no advanced prep (we were able to skip the soaking step called for in many recipes), the rice presented a bit of a challenge. Raw rice didn’t cook through evenly and was blown out and mushy by the time the beans were done. Instant rice, stirred in toward the end of cooking, held its shape and absorbed the rich flavors of the beans and broth. Using Cajun seasoning meant we didn’t need to include a laundry list of spices, and frozen okra, added at the end with some fresh tomatoes, reinforced the Cajun identity of our dish. Be sure to use instant rice (sometimes labeled minute rice); traditional rice takes much longer to cook and won’t work here. Serve with hot sauce.
1. Microwave Cajun seasoning, oil, and garlic in bowl until fragrant, about 1 minute; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, beans, and bell pepper. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Stir in rice, cover, and cook on high until rice is tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Stir in okra and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and scallions, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Louisiana (Cajun or Creole) Seasoning
Whether called Cajun or Creole, most Louisiana spice blends contain a mix of paprika, garlic, thyme, salt, pepper, and cayenne—ingredients typically found in the region’s signature dishes. We had 22 cooks and editors sample five seasonings labeled Creole or Cajun. Our tasters preferred saltier and spicier blends. We liked the “pungent” kick from products that list black pepper, cayenne, or chili powder high on their ingredient lists, and tasters also thought that products with more sodium had “more complex” flavors: Our favorite product, Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning, contains 350 milligrams of sodium per ¼-teaspoon serving. Seasonings with less than 130 milligrams of sodium were “flat” and “bland,” and one salt-free product was “completely boring.”
CHAPTER 10
All-Purpose Tomato Sauce ■ ■ ■ ■
Sausage Ragu with Red Peppers ■
MAKE IT 5 WAYS: Marinara Sauce
Puttanesca Sauce ■ ■
Arrabbiata Sauce ■ ■
Rustic Sausage, Lentil, and Swiss Chard Sauce ■
Braised Fennel and Turkey Sausage Sauce ■
Short Ribs and Red Wine Sauce ■
Beef Ragu with Warm Spices ■ ■
Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil Turkey Meatballs
Chicken and Broccolini Sauce ■
Shrimp Fra Diavolo Sauce ■ ■ ■
Mushroom Bolognese ■ ■ ■
Butternut Squash and Sage Sauce ■
Braised Kale, Fennel, and Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce ■ ■
Braised Kale and Chickpea Sauce
Escarole and White Bean Sauce ■
SIMPLE SIDES
■ EASY PREP
■ VEGETARIAN
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
When you have access to lots of fresh plum tomatoes, the slow cooker makes it easy to turn them into a vibrant sauce.
MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 2 POUNDS PASTA EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The beauty of this recipe is that you can put a bounty of fresh tomatoes into a slow cooker along with a little salt, walk away for up to 10 hours, and you end up with a brightly flavored tomato sauce—enough to serve a crowd (or plenty to freeze for later). This is the recipe to turn to when your local farmers’ markets are overflowing with their late summer crops of field-grown tomatoes. Be sure to leave the lid slightly ajar—about ½ inch—to allow steam to escape and help concentrate the flavor.
1. Working over bowl, squeeze each tomato half to expel seeds and excess juice. Discard seeds and juice. Combine tomatoes and 1½ teaspoons salt in slow cooker. Cover, leaving lid about ½ inch ajar, and cook until tomatoes are very soft, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
2. Transfer tomatoes to colander and let excess liquid drain (do not press on tomatoes). Working in batches, process tomatoes in blender until smooth, about 1 minute; return to now-empty slow cooker. Stir oil into sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons basil for every 4 cups sauce.
MAKES ABOUT 12 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 2 POUNDS PASTA EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Nothing could be more welcoming on a cold night than coming home to a rustic, flavor-packed meat sauce ready to toss with some stick-to-your-ribs pasta. For our slow-cooker version, we relied on boneless pork butt, which turned meltingly tender during the long cooking time. Once the pork was fully cooked, it was easy to break it into shreds using a potato masher. To prevent the sauce from turning out watery, we relied on a trio of tomato products: tomato paste, diced tomatoes, and tomato puree. A dose of soy sauce further enhanced the sauce’s meaty flavor. No one would ever guess that this rich-tasting and meaty sauce was so easy to make. Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket.
1. Microwave onions, garlic, tomato paste, oil, oregano, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, tomato puree, wine, soy sauce, and bay leaves. Season pork with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork is tender, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
2. Discard bay leaves. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Using potato masher, smash pork until coarsely shredded. Season with salt, pepper, and sugar to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons parsley for every 6 cups sauce.
This luxuriously rich ragu features the classic combo of Italian sausage and red peppers plus lots of onion and garlic.
MAKES ABOUT 12 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 2 POUNDS PASTA ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Sausages and sweet bell peppers are a classic pairing that we thought would translate perfectly into a bright, slightly sweet, and deeply flavored slow-cooker pasta sauce. We liked the flavor that Italian sausages imparted, and a few minutes spent browning them and breaking them up in a skillet gave the sauce an even deeper and richer flavor. Since we had our skillet out, we sautéed our aromatics (onions, garlic, oregano, and red pepper flakes) and deglazed the pan with red wine. Tomato paste, crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes, and tomato puree were the perfect combination of tomato products with which to build our sauce—neither too watery nor too thick. As for the bell peppers, which rounded out the flavors and cut a little of the heat, we simply softened them in the microwave and stirred them into the sauce just before serving.
1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown sausage, breaking up large pieces with wooden spoon, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer sausage to slow cooker.
2. Add onions, garlic, tomato paste, oregano, and pepper flakes to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until onions are softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes, and tomato puree. Cover and cook until sauce is deeply flavored, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
3. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Microwave bell peppers with remaining 1 tablespoon oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir bell peppers into sauce and season with salt, pepper, and sugar to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons parsley for every 6 cups sauce.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS MARINARA SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 10 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 2 POUNDS PASTA EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
There are many classic pasta sauces that are basically variations on marinara, and we wanted to come up with a formula for making them in the slow cooker, where the long simmering time would render them rich and flavorful. The biggest hurdle was choosing the right tomato products to create sauces that were neither watery nor too thick. Our solution was a combination of three different tomato products (paste, crushed, and puree). The concentrated products (paste and puree) provided strong, complex flavor without unwanted water—no need for evaporation. For all these sauces we microwaved onions and aromatics along with tomato paste to create a flavor-packed sauce base, adding other ingredients like anchovies, red pepper flakes, or pancetta to the mix to suit the particular sauce. Seasoning at the end, and adding additional herbs or other ingredients like capers and olives, provided the finishing touches.
1 CLASSIC MARINARA SAUCE
1. Microwave onions, garlic, tomato paste, oil, oregano, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, tomato puree, and wine. Cover and cook until sauce is deeply flavored, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
2. Stir sugar into sauce. Season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons basil for every 5 cups sauce.
2 AMATRICIANA SAUCE
1. Microwave onions, pancetta, garlic, tomato paste, oil, oregano, pepper flakes, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, tomato puree, and wine. Cover and cook until sauce is deeply flavored, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
2. Stir Pecorino and sugar into sauce. Season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons basil for every 5 cups sauce.
3 PUTTANESCA SAUCE
1. Microwave onions, anchovies, garlic, tomato paste, oil, oregano, pepper flakes, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes and tomato puree, cover, and cook until sauce is deeply flavored, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
2. Stir olives, capers, and sugar into sauce. Season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons basil for every 5 cups sauce.
4 ARRABBIATA SAUCE
1. Microwave onions, anchovies, garlic, tomato paste, oil, pepper flakes, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, tomato puree, and pepperoncini. Cover and cook until sauce is deeply flavored, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
2. Stir sugar into sauce and season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons basil for every 5 cups sauce.
5 VODKA CREAM SAUCE
1. Microwave onions, garlic, tomato paste, oil, oregano, pepper flakes, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, tomato puree, and vodka. Cover and cook until sauce is deeply flavored, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
2. Stir cream, Parmesan, and sugar into sauce. Season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons basil for every 5 cups sauce.
MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 11 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 8 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Pasta and lentils are a classic pairing—add sausage and Swiss chard and you have the ultimate cold-weather pasta dish: earthy, deeply flavored, and totally satisfying. To build flavor into this humble dish, we started by browning Italian sausage and then sautéing the aromatics in the fat left in the skillet. This gave us a chance to build a flour-thickened sauce, which formed the base of this dish. Added at the end, Swiss chard retained its earthy flavor and color. We prefer French green lentils, or lentilles du Puy, for this recipe, but it will work with any type of lentil except red or yellow.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown sausage, breaking up large pieces with wooden spoon, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer sausage to slow cooker.
2. Add onions, carrots, and celery to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in 1 cup broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 4 cups broth, lentils, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Cover and cook until lentils are tender, 9 to 11 hours on low or 6 to 8 hours on high.
4. Discard bay leaves. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Gently stir in chard, cover, and cook on high until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Pairing Pasta Shapes and Sauces
Pairing a pasta shape with the right sauce might be an art form in Italy, but we think there’s only one basic rule to follow: Thick, chunky sauces go with short pastas, and thin, smooth, or light sauces with strand pasta. Short tubular or molded pasta shapes do an excellent job of trapping chunky sauces. Sauces with very large chunks are best with large tubes such as rigatoni. Sauces with small chunks pair better with fusilli or penne. Long strands are best with smooth sauces or thinner sauces. In general, wider noodles, such as pappardelle and fettuccine, can support slightly chunkier sauces like Bolognese or ragu.
MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We set out to create a hearty yet healthy creamy meat sauce in the slow cooker that married the rich flavor of sausage with aromatic fennel. We decided on turkey sausage, as it is leaner than other options but still has great flavor. In order to maximize this flavor, we got out the skillet to brown the meat, which provided welcome savory and rich undertones. Keeping things streamlined, we moved on to cook the carrots and fennel in the leftover fat of the sausage, which enhanced their already-bold flavors. To make sure we got every last drop of that flavor, we sprinkled flour into the pan and stirred it around with the vegetables. This also helped thicken our sauce. Deglazing with a little broth and white wine allowed us to scrape up any flavorful browned bits in the pan before we transferred everything to the slow cooker. Finishing the sauce with just a quarter-cup of cream added extra richness while keeping it relatively lean. Minced fresh tarragon and orange zest complemented the flavors of the sausage and fennel, and added fresh notes.
1. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown sausage, breaking up large pieces with wooden spoon, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer sausage to slow cooker.
2. Add fennel and carrots to fat left in pot and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour, garlic, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in 1 cup broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 2 cups broth and bay leaf into slow cooker. Cover and cook until sausage is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
4. Discard bay leaf. Stir cream, orange zest, tarragon, and reserved fennel fronds into sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
This hands-off Bolognese sauce is a godsend for busy home cooks—go ahead and stock your freezer with it!
MAKES ABOUT 14 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 3 POUNDS PASTA ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Unlike meat sauces in which tomatoes dominate, a Bolognese sauce is all about the meat, with the tomatoes in a supporting role. We wanted an easy big-batch recipe with all the flavor and rich meatiness of traditional versions, but without all the work required to incorporate first the milk and then the wine into the meat, not to mention the long simmering time. To build a flavorful base, we sautéed the aromatics in butter and then deglazed the pan with white wine. As for the meat, meatloaf mix, with its mixture of ground beef, pork, and veal, was a simple solution. The problem was how to incorporate the dairy that gives Bolognese its hallmark richness and appeal. To tenderize the meat, we tried something unconventional: a panade, a mixture of bread and milk—but here we used cream instead for extra richness. This worked perfectly—we simply mixed the meat and the panade and added it raw to the slow cooker. At the end of hours of hands-off cooking, we had a rich Bolognese with concentrated flavor and a tender texture that rivaled our stovetop version. And better yet, this version could cook all day and gave us enough for a crowd or batches to freeze for busy nights. If you cannot find meatloaf mix, substitute 1½ pounds 85 percent lean ground beef and 1½ pounds ground pork.
1. Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add onion, carrot, and celery and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, garlic, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Mash bread, cream, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper into paste in large bowl using fork. Add meatloaf mix and knead with hands until well combined. Stir meatloaf mixture and tomatoes into slow cooker until combined. Cover and cook until meat is tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
3. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Break up any remaining large pieces of meat with spoon. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
We brown the aromatics for this rich sauce but add the short ribs directly to the slow cooker to braise until tender.
MAKES ABOUT 12 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 2 POUNDS PASTA ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The classic pairing of short ribs and red wine sauce struck us as the perfect basis for a slow-cooker pasta sauce. Here boneless short ribs were cooked until tender and shreddable in a rich red wine–based sauce. To build our sauce we first sautéed aromatics (onions, carrots, celery, garlic, and tomato paste), then deglazed the pan with a healthy dose of red wine. To further complement the rich flavor of the meat and wine, we stirred diced tomatoes and tomato puree into the slow cooker, which gave our sauce just the right body and flavor. At the end of cooking we simply shredded the meat and stirred in some parsley before serving the sauce over our favorite pasta.
1. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions, carrots, and celery and cook until softened and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir tomatoes, tomato puree, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Season short ribs with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
3. Discard bay leaves. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Using potato masher, smash beef until coarsely shredded. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons parsley for every 6 cups sauce.
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Making a true long-simmered Italian meat sauce requires tending the stovetop for hours—so we decided to move ours to the slow cooker. Boneless beef short ribs turned meltingly tender after several hours of low, slow cooking and were easy enough to break apart into fork-friendly pieces right in the slow cooker once they were done. Onion and garlic provided essential aromatic notes, and a generous amount of tomato paste—2 tablespoons—added depth of flavor. To infuse our sauce with warmth, we included cinnamon and cloves, blooming them in the microwave with the aromatics. Tomato puree ensured that our sauce had the right consistency. Though untraditional in pasta sauce, a big dose of soy sauce enhanced the meaty flavor of our ragu. At the end of cooking we stirred in some chopped parsley for a fresh finish. No one would ever guess that this rich-tasting sauce was so easy to make.
1. Microwave onion, tomato paste, oil, garlic, cinnamon, and cloves in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomato puree, soy sauce, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Season short ribs with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Using potato masher, smash beef until coarsely shredded. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Cooking Pasta 101
Cooking pasta seems simple, but perfect pasta takes some finesse. Here’s how we do it in the test kitchen.
USE PLENTY OF WATER To prevent sticking, you’ll need 4 quarts of water to cook up to 1 pound of dried pasta. Pasta leaches starch as it cooks; without plenty of water to dilute it, the starch will coat the noodles and they will stick. Use a pot with at least a 6-quart capacity so that the water won’t boil over.
SALT THE WATER Adding salt to the pasta cooking water is essential; it seasons the pasta and adds flavor. Add 1 tablespoon of salt per 4 quarts of water. Be sure to add the salt with the pasta, not before, so it will dissolve and not stain the pot.
SKIP THE OIL It’s a myth that adding oil to pasta cooking water prevents the pasta from sticking together as it cooks. Adding oil to cooking water just creates a slick on the surface of the water, doing nothing for the pasta. And after you drain the pasta, the oil prevents the pasta sauce from adhering. To prevent pasta from sticking, simply stir the pasta for a minute or two when you add it to the boiling water, then stir occasionally while it’s cooking.
CHECK OFTEN FOR DONENESS The timing instructions given on the package are almost always too long and will result in mushy, overcooked pasta. Tasting is the best way to check for doneness. We typically prefer pasta cooked al dente, when it still has a little bite left in the center.
RESERVE SOME WATER Reserve about ½ cup cooking water before draining the pasta—the water is flavorful and can help loosen a thick sauce.
DON’T RINSE Drain the pasta in a colander, but don’t rinse the pasta; it washes away starch and makes the pasta taste watery. Do let a little cooking water cling to the cooked pasta to help the sauce adhere.
SAUCE IN THE POT Return the drained pasta to the now-empty pot, add the sauce, and toss using tongs or a pasta fork. Add pasta cooking water as needed until the sauce reaches the proper consistency. Saucing pasta in the pot ensures evenly coated, hot pasta.
MAKES ABOUT 12 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 2 POUNDS PASTA ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We capitalized on the slow cooker’s low, slow, moist cooking environment to make this meaty peasant-style pasta sauce. The long simmer that is required to break down the collagen and melt the fatty pockets of chuck-eye roast is easy work in the slow cooker. To ensure that the mixture didn’t become too soupy, we drew excess water out of the onions before adding them to the pot.
1. Working in batches, pulse onions in food processor until finely chopped, about 15 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; transfer to large bowl. Stir in ¼ teaspoon salt, cover, and microwave for 5 minutes. Drain onions in fine-mesh strainer, pressing with rubber spatula to extract excess liquid; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Process pancetta, salami, carrot, and celery in now-empty processor until ground to paste, about 45 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in wine, water, 2 tablespoons oil, tomato paste, oregano, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper until thoroughly combined.
3. Season beef with salt and pepper and stir into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beef is tender, 8 to 10 hours on low or 5 to 7 hours on high.
4. Using potato masher, smash beef until coarsely shredded. Stir in Pecorino and remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
To make Sunday Gravy in the slow cooker we turned to country-style spareribs, flank steak, and Italian sausage.
MAKES ABOUT 16 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 3 POUNDS PASTA ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We love the flavor and heartiness of Sunday gravy, but not the laundry list of ingredients or the hours of stovetop monitoring. For a streamlined recipe, we turned to our slow cooker and narrowed the meat selection down to three: flank steak, for meaty flavor; country-style spareribs, for porky, fall-off-the-bone meat; and sausage, for its spicy, sweet kick. Using the flavorful drippings left behind from browning the sausage to sauté our aromatics infused the whole dish with flavor. And a combination of drained diced tomatoes, tomato puree, and tomato paste ensured a rich, thick sauce.
1. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of sausage on all sides, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Repeat with remaining sausage; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Add onions to fat left in pot and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, garlic, and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes and tomato puree.
3. Season spareribs and steak with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until pork and beef are tender and fork slips easily in and out of meat, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
4. Transfer sausages, spareribs, and steak to cutting board and let cool slightly. Using 2 forks, shred ribs and steak into rough 1-inch pieces; discard fat and bones. Slice sausages in half crosswise.
5. Using large spoon, skim fat from surface of sauce. Stir in shredded meat and sausages and season with salt and pepper to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons basil for every 8 cups sauce.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Freezing Pasta Sauce
One of the greatest things about making a large batch of pasta sauce is that you can freeze it in smaller batches for easy last-minute dinners in the future. We’ve found that the best way to freeze pasta sauce is to spoon it into zipper-lock freezer bags, then lay the bags flat in the freezer to save space. To reheat the sauce, simply cut away the bag, place the frozen block of sauce in a large pot with several tablespoons of water, and reheat gently over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until hot. Alternatively, you can microwave the frozen sauce in a covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until hot. Before serving, stir in any additional fresh herbs, if needed, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
SIMPLE SIDES
GARLIC BREAD
SERVES 8
A 12 by 5-inch loaf of Italian bread from the bakery section of the supermarket has a soft, thin crust and fine crumb, and works best in this recipe. We do not recommend using a rustic or crusty artisan-style loaf. A rasp-style grater makes quick work of turning the garlic into a paste. If you bake the bread on a dark baking sheet, start checking for doneness 4 minutes after flipping the bread in step 3.
1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Combine garlic powder and water in medium bowl. Add 4 tablespoons butter, salt, and cayenne to bowl; set aside.
2. Place remaining 4 tablespoons butter in small bowl and microwave, covered, until melted, about 30 seconds. Stir in garlic and continue to microwave, covered, until mixture is bubbling around edges, about 1 minute, stirring halfway through. Transfer garlic-butter mixture to bowl with garlic powder mixture and whisk together until it forms homogenous loose paste. (If mixture melts, set aside until it solidifies before using.)
3. Spread cut sides of loaf evenly with butter mixture. Transfer bread cut side up to rimmed baking sheet. Bake until butter has melted into surface of bread and bread is hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove baking sheet from oven. Flip bread, cut side down, place second rimmed baking sheet on top and gently press. Return bread to oven, with second baking sheet on top of bread, and continue to bake until cut side of bread is golden brown and crisp, 8 to 12 minutes longer, rotating bread halfway through baking. Transfer bread to cutting board. Using serrated knife, cut each half into 8 slices and serve immediately.
Meatballs must be partially cooked before they go into the slow cooker—otherwise they will fall apart.
MAKES 24 MEATBALLS AND ABOUT 10 CUPS SAUCE; ENOUGH FOR 2 POUNDS PASTA
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For our slow-cooker spaghetti and meatballs, we wanted nothing short of great meatballs: crusty and dark brown on the outside, soft and moist on the inside. We first microwaved the aromatics (including tomato paste, olive oil, and oregano) to bloom their flavors, which gave the sauce a meaty base. Then we combined half of the onion mixture with crushed tomatoes, tomato puree, and wine to create a rich, flavorful sauce in which to gently braise the meatballs. To punch up the flavor of the meatballs, we added the remaining half of the onion mixture. Adding a simple panade (milk and bread mixed to a paste) kept the meat moist and prevented it from getting tough. The addition of egg yolks was also important for both texture and flavor; their fats and emulsifiers contributed moisture and richness. Before placing the meatballs in the slow cooker, we found that roasting them on a wire rack for about 10 minutes allowed for even browning and a firm exterior texture; this enabled them to hold their shape during the long cooking time as they absorbed the flavor of sauce while lending even more meaty flavor to it. At the end of cooking, we stirred in a little sugar to provide subtle sweetness, and some chopped basil to add just the right amount of freshness.
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray.
2. Microwave onions, garlic, tomato paste, oil, oregano, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Transfer half of onion mixture to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, tomato puree, and wine.
3. Mash bread, milk, and ½ teaspoon salt to paste in large bowl using fork. Stir in remaining onion mixture, Parmesan, parsley, egg yolks, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Add ground beef and knead with hands until well combined. Pinch off and roll mixture into 1½-inch meatballs (about 24 meatballs) and arrange on prepared rack. Bake until firm and no longer pink, about 10 minutes.
4. Gently nestle meatballs into slow cooker, cover, and cook until meatballs are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low. Stir in sugar and season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons basil for every 5 cups sauce.
This fresh take on meatballs and sauce has chopped spinach in the meatballs and handfuls of spinach in the sauce.
MAKES 12 MEATBALLS AND ABOUT 6 CUPS SAUCE; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This twist on classic spaghetti and meatballs features tender meatballs made ultraflavorful with a mixture of spinach, Parmesan, and garlic, and a robust marinara to which we also added fresh spinach. A panade, which is bread and milk combined to form a paste, was added to the meat to help keep it moist and prevent it from getting tough. Raw meatballs added directly to the sauce have a tendency to disintegrate while in the slow cooker, so we first gave them a quick spin in the microwave to help them firm up. For our marinara, we needed three tomato products to achieve the right balance of flavor and texture: chunky crushed tomatoes, smooth tomato puree, and rich tomato paste. Stirring in more spinach at the end kept the sauce fresh and bright, resulting in a colorful and delicious sauce to accompany our alternative take on classic meatballs.
1. Combine tomatoes, tomato puree, tomato paste, two-thirds of garlic, sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper flakes in slow cooker.
2. Mash bread, milk, and ¼ teaspoon salt to paste in large bowl using fork. Stir in chopped spinach, Parmesan, remaining garlic, and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper flakes. Add ground beef and knead with hands until well combined. Pinch off and roll mixture into 1½-inch meatballs (about 12 meatballs) and arrange on large plate.
3. Microwave meatballs until firm and no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Gently nestle meatballs into slow cooker, adding any accumulated juices. Cover and cook until meatballs are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Gently stir in remaining 4 cups spinach, 1 handful at a time, and let sit until wilted, about 5 minutes. Stir in basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Spaghetti
Besides convenience, the other draw of dried spaghetti is that it’s inexpensive—or at least it used to be. When we recently browsed the options at the supermarket, we discovered that while you can still pick up a 1-pound package for as little as a dollar and change, you can also spend more than three times that amount. How much better could a pound of pasta costing more than $4 really be? To answer that question, we tasted several products ranging in price from $1.39 to $4.17 per pound. So when it comes to spaghetti, do you get what you pay for? Not necessarily: Our winner, De Cecco Spaghetti No. 12, stood out for its particularly good texture and flavor—and at $1.39 a pound, it was one of the two least expensive spaghettis we tasted.
Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil Turkey Meatballs
These turkey meatballs get big flavor from chopped sun-dried tomatoes plus their packing oil.
MAKES 24 MEATBALLS AND ABOUT 10 CUPS SAUCE; ENOUGH FOR 2 POUNDS PASTA
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Turkey meatballs often turn out bland and dry, so we set out to develop a recipe that rivaled those made from beef or pork in terms of tenderness and flavor. To start we wanted to pack them with a bright savoriness, and decided to try adding a hefty dose of chopped basil, sun-dried tomatoes, and Parmesan along with the usual aromatics. We microwaved a large amount of aromatics first, thinking we’d split it between the sauce and the meatballs. This worked perfectly, infusing their flavors throughout the whole dish. The addition of a panade (milk and bread mixed to a paste) and egg yolks helped bind the turkey mixture while keeping it moist and tender. But if we tried to place our meatballs directly into the slow cooker, they were apt to fall apart during the long cooking time. An extra step solved the problem: just 10 minutes in the oven browned them perfectly and firmed them up just enough to withstand the simmering time in the slow cooker, where they imparted flavor to the sauce. The sauce was supersimple to make—we simply combined crushed tomatoes, tomato puree, and wine, along with half the onion mix. Sugar stirred in at the end balanced out any sharpness in the sauce, and chopped basil gave the meatballs a fresh finishing touch. Be sure to use ground turkey, not ground turkey breast (also labeled 99 percent fat-free), in this recipe.
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Set wire rack in aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet and coat with vegetable oil spray.
2. Microwave onions, garlic, tomato paste, tomato packing oil, oregano, pepper flakes, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Transfer half of onion mixture to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, tomato puree, and wine.
3. Mash bread, milk, and ½ teaspoon salt to paste in large bowl using fork. Stir in sun-dried tomatoes, remaining onion mixture, Parmesan, basil, egg yolks, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Add ground turkey and knead with hands until well combined. Pinch off and roll mixture into 1½-inch meatballs (about 24 meatballs) and arrange on prepared rack. Bake until firm and no longer pink, about 10 minutes.
4. Gently nestle meatballs into slow cooker, cover, and cook until meatballs are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low. Stir in sugar and season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons basil for every 5 cups sauce.
The combo of cremini and dried porcini mushrooms delivers undeniable flavor in this satisfying shredded chicken sauce.
MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This dish was inspired by the classic flavors of chicken cacciatore, a savory Italian braise that includes mushrooms, tomatoes, onions, and herbs. We didn’t skimp on the mushrooms, settling on two bold types to ensure a hearty sauce: cremini and porcini. Microwaving the cremini with our aromatics—onion, garlic, and tomato paste—was an easy way to bloom the aromatics and soften the mushrooms before adding them to the slow cooker. For the base of our sauce we chose crushed tomatoes, which allowed the earthiness of the mushrooms to shine through. Boneless, skinless chicken thighs gave the sauce richness, and they were moist enough to shred easily by the end of the cooking time. Finally, a sprinkling of chopped parsley, stirred in just before serving, contributed a hit of freshness.
1. Microwave cremini mushrooms, onion, tomato paste, garlic, oil, and porcini mushrooms in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low.
2. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks. Stir chicken into sauce and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Mushrooms: Wash or Brush?
Culinary wisdom holds that raw mushrooms must never touch water, lest they soak up the liquid and become soggy. Many sources call for cleaning dirty mushrooms with a soft bristled brush or a damp cloth. These fussy techniques may be worth the effort if you plan to eat the mushrooms raw, but we wondered whether mushrooms destined for the sauté pan could be simply rinsed and patted dry. To test this, we submerged 6 ounces of white mushrooms in a bowl of water for 5 minutes. We drained and weighed the mushrooms and found that they had soaked up only ¼ ounce (about 1½ teaspoons) of water, not nearly enough to affect their texture. So when we plan to cook mushrooms, we don’t bother with the brush. Instead, we place the mushrooms in a salad spinner, rinse the dirt and grit away with cold water, and spin to remove excess moisture.
This slow-cooker take on chicken, broccolini, and penne takes a fresher route to a satisfying pasta dinner.
MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With its enticing combination of moist chicken, fresh broccolini, and sweet red bell pepper, this rich sauce perfectly complements pasta. We chose bone-in chicken breasts, which stayed moist throughout the cooking time and also added a deep chicken flavor to the sauce. To build the base, we microwaved the aromatics—onion and garlic—along with oregano, red pepper flakes, and a little olive oil. Then we added the chicken broth and the chicken. For a little more depth and brightness, we added a splash of white wine. And to thicken the sauce so that it would coat the pasta properly, we simply added a little tapioca at the outset. As this flavorful base simmered with the chicken, it took on a deep, complex flavor. Once the chicken was tender, we removed it from the slow cooker, let it rest briefly, then shredded it into small pieces. Meanwhile, we microwaved the broccolini and then added it and some grated Parmesan to the sauce along with the chicken for a bright, fresh, and healthy pasta dinner.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, 1 tablespoon oil, oregano, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, bell pepper, wine, and tapioca. Season chicken with salt and pepper and nestle into slow cooker. Cover and cook until chicken is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low.
2. Microwave broccolini and 1 tablespoon water in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain broccolini.
3. Transfer chicken to cutting board, let cool slightly, then pull apart into large chunks using 2 forks; discard bones. Stir chicken and broccolini into sauce and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in Parmesan and remaining 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
GRATING HARD CHEESE
When grating Parmesan and other hard cheeses, we use a rasp-style grater because it produces lighter, fluffier shreds of cheese that melt seamlessly into pasta dishes and sauces.
MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA EASY PREP LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Shrimp Fra Diavolo, a restaurant favorite, at first glance seems like an unlikely candidate for a slow-cooker recipe, but in truth it works exceedingly well. Fra Diavolo (which translates from Italian to “brother devil”) is simply a superspicy tomato sauce that is often paired with seafood. To create a tomato sauce with a definite kick, we gave traditional aromatics a boost with a heaping amount of garlic and red pepper flakes. We achieved fresh tomato flavor with a combination of crushed and diced tomatoes. White wine instead of red kept the sauce bright and light and over the long cooking time the flavors melded into a robust sauce. Because shrimp need only a brief moment to cook through, tossing them in right at the end allowed them to poach in the flavorful base in the time it took the pasta to cook on the stovetop. Parsley’s earthiness finished off this garlicky and spicy sauce studded with sweet, plump shrimp. If using smaller or larger shrimp, be sure to adjust the cooking time as needed.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, tomato paste, 1 tablespoon oil, oregano, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes, wine, sugar, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cover and cook until sauce is deeply flavored, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Stir shrimp into sauce, cover, and cook on high until opaque throughout, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir in parsley and remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Canned Tomatoes
Since canned tomatoes are processed at the height of freshness, they deliver more flavor than off-season fresh tomatoes. But with all the options lining supermarket shelves, it’s not always clear what you should buy. We tested a variety of canned tomato products to determine the best uses for each.
WHOLE TOMATOES Whole tomatoes are peeled tomatoes packed in either their own juice or puree. They are best when fresh tomato flavor is a must. Whole tomatoes are quite soft and break down quickly when cooked. In taste tests, we preferred Muir Glen for their lively, fresh flavor.
DICED TOMATOES Diced tomatoes are peeled, machine-diced, and packed in either their own juice or puree. Many brands contain calcium chloride, a firming agent that helps the chunks maintain their shape. Diced tomatoes are best for rustic tomato sauces with a chunky texture, and in long-cooked stews and soups in which you want the tomatoes to hold their shape. We favor diced tomatoes packed in juice because they have a fresher flavor than those packed in puree; our favorite is Hunt’s.
CRUSHED TOMATOES Crushed tomatoes are whole tomatoes ground very finely, then enriched with tomato puree. They work well in smoother sauces, and their thicker consistency makes them ideal when you want to make a sauce quickly. We like Tuttorosso, but you can also make your own by pulsing canned diced tomatoes in a food processor.
TOMATO PUREE Tomato puree is made from cooked tomatoes that have been strained to remove their seeds and skins. Tomato puree works well in long-simmered, smooth, thick sauces with a deep, hearty flavor. Our favorite brand is Muir Glen Organic.
TOMATO PASTE Tomato paste is tomato puree that has been cooked to remove almost all moisture. Because it’s naturally full of glutamates, tomato paste brings out subtle depths and savory notes. We use it in a variety of recipes, including both long-simmered sauces and quicker-cooking dishes, to lend a deeper, well-rounded tomato flavor and color. Our preferred brand is Goya.
Even diehard meat eaters will tuck away this savory mushroom-based take on classic Bolognese.
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 2 POUNDS PASTA VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a vegetarian take on classic Bolognese with long-cooked flavor, we turned to mushrooms, deciding on cremini for their firm texture and porcini for savory flavor. To keep things simple, we used the food processor to chop the cremini and the vegetables. Since mushrooms take on more flavor when browned, and because there is no opportunity for evaporation in a slow cooker, we sautéed them and the other vegetables in a skillet to drive off excess moisture and build flavor. We first tried tomato puree as the tomato base for our sauce, but we found it was a little too thick; the mushrooms required more liquid in which to cook. We discovered that processing whole peeled tomatoes gave us the extra liquid we needed while keeping the fresh tomato flavor. Finishing this hearty sauce with a little heavy cream helped smooth out any sharpness and gave it a nice creaminess, and parsley and lemon juice brightened it up.
1. Working in batches, pulse cremini mushrooms in food processor until pieces are no larger than ½ inch, 5 to 7 pulses; transfer to large bowl. Pulse onion and carrot in now-empty processor until finely chopped, 5 to 7 pulses; transfer to bowl with mushrooms. Pulse tomatoes and their juice in again-empty processor until almost smooth, 6 to 8 pulses; set aside in separate bowl.
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add processed vegetables and porcini mushrooms, cover, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until vegetables are dry and browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, garlic, and oregano and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and simmer until nearly evaporated, about 3 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir tomatoes, 1 teaspoon salt, sugar, ½ teaspoon pepper, and bay leaf into slow cooker. Cover and cook until sauce is deeply flavored, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
4. Discard bay leaf. Stir in cream and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons parsley for every 3 cups sauce.
Broiling the eggplant before adding it to the slow cooker gives this alla norma sauce just the right firm texture.
MAKES ABOUT 10 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 2 POUNDS PASTA
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Rigatoni alla norma is a pasta dish with a gutsy tomato sauce studded with chunks of eggplant. We tried adding the eggplant to the slow cooker without parcooking it, but we ended up with mushy, flavorless chunks of eggplant floating in our sauce. We found that a quick stint under the broiler after a toss with oil and our aromatics was all it took to rid the eggplant of moisture and add flavor. To build the base for our sauce, we started with crushed tomatoes and added tomato puree, which gave the sauce the right clingy consistency. For a spicy backbone, we included a generous amount of red pepper flakes. Anchovy fillets provided deep, savory flavor without unwanted fishiness. Fresh basil and olive oil added at the end rounded out the flavors of this easy sauce. This sauce is traditionally served on rigatoni and topped with shredded ricotta salata, a slightly aged ricotta cheese.
1. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Toss eggplant with oil, garlic, tomato paste, and sugar in bowl. Spread eggplant mixture evenly over aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil eggplant until softened and beginning to brown, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through broiling; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir tomatoes, tomato puree, anchovies, ¼ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and pepper flakes into slow cooker. Cover and cook until flavors meld and eggplant is tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Before serving, stir in 2 tablespoons basil and 1 tablespoon oil for every 5 cups sauce.
CUTTING UP EGGPLANT
1. To cut eggplant into tidy pieces, first cut eggplant crosswise into 1-inch-thick rounds.
2. Then cut each round into pieces as directed in recipe.
SIMPLE SIDES
SOFT AND CHEESY BREADSTICKS
MAKES 12
Feel free to use your favorite pizza dough recipe here or purchase ready-made pizza dough from the local pizzeria or supermarket. This recipe can be easily doubled.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Roll dough into 12 by 6-inch rectangle on lightly floured counter. Using pizza cutter or chef’s knife, cut dough crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips. Arrange dough strips evenly on greased rimmed baking sheet, brush with oil, sprinkle with Parmesan, and season with salt and pepper. Bake until golden, about 20 minutes. Serve warm.
Butternut Squash and Sage Sauce
It takes only a little butter to make a satisfying sage sauce to pair with pasta, squash, and spinach.
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA VEG
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Pasta paired with butternut squash and a sage-infused butter sauce is always a winner, but often this dish loses its focus with too much butter overwhelming the delicate nuttiness of the squash. We were hoping to create a lighter and more brothy version of this sauce in the slow cooker. To start, we got out a skillet to create our base, sautéing the onion in butter, then adding the aromatics and flour. Once the aromatics were softened and the raw flavor cooked out of the flour, we deglazed the pan with broth and wine, making sure to scrape up any flavorful browned bits on the bottom of the pan. To this base we added more broth and the squash; as it simmered in the slow cooker, the mixture became superflavorful, making the perfect delicate sauce for the pasta. At the end of the cooking time we added spinach, which gave the dish a bright green color and healthy kick.
1. Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in flour, 1½ tablespoons sage, garlic, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in 1 cup broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir remaining 1½ cups broth, squash, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper into slow cooker. Cover and cook until squash is tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
3. Stir in spinach, Parmesan, and remaining 1½ tablespoons sage and toss until spinach is slightly wilted. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Penne
Now that more specialty brands and Italian imports have hit store shelves, we decided to give fancy pasta—this time in the form of penne—another taste. We tried eight products, with some costing more than $5 per pound.
Many Italian brands claim to employ traditional techniques and ingredients, such as slow kneading, mixing cold mountain spring water with hard durum semolina, extruding the dough through traditional bronze cast dies for a coarse texture, and prolonged air drying. Supposedly these practices make for stronger flavor and more rustic, sauce-gripping pasta. Yet three expensive imports (Bionaturae, Montebello, and Rustichella d’Abruzzo) landed at the bottom of our rankings. Ronzoni scored in the middle of the pack. Tasters liked three other Italian offerings (Benedetto Cavalieri, De Cecco, and Martelli), but top honors went to Mueller’s.
Braised Kale, Fennel, and Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce
This easy-to-prepare vegetarian pasta sauce packs a pound of kale into the mix along with two sliced fennel bulbs.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Pasta and braised kale are a popular pairing for a reason—the earthy, meaty notes of the tender greens add depth and flavor to the mild-tasting pasta, creating a simple yet incredibly satisfying dish. To prepare our kale for the slow cooker, we cut it into pieces and tossed it in along with chopped onion, minced garlic, and red pepper flakes. This combination tasted good, but swapping out the onion for fennel promised a more filling and flavorful dish. Rather than water, we used vegetable broth for our cooking liquid, which imparted salty, savory notes to our sauce. For some much-needed brightness, we added chopped sun-dried tomatoes. A big drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil along with some grated Parmesan enriched this fairly lean sauce, and toasted pine nuts offered a welcome crunch. We stirred these last ingredients in just before serving so that their flavors wouldn’t dull in the slow cooker. Be sure to use high-quality extra-virgin olive oil here.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine kale, fennel, broth, tomatoes, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, and pepper flakes in prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook until kale is tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Stir in Parmesan, oil, and pine nuts. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Sun-Dried Tomatoes
Sun-dried tomatoes are made by—not surprisingly—drying tomatoes in the sun or through artificial means. The drying process turns the tomatoes dark red, makes their flesh chewy, and gives them an intense, concentrated flavor. Sun-dried tomatoes are sold either dry-packed in small plastic containers or bags or oil-packed in jars. We prefer oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes because the dry-packed variety are often leathery. Plus, the former provides a flavorful oil that can be used for cooking.
Braised Kale and Chickpea Sauce
A little bacon gives this sauce smoky undertones, while pureed chickpeas give it the right body.
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Classic pasta sauces that marry hearty greens and beans usually rely on lots of oil and often cream to make the dish cohesive and rich-tasting, but we were after a healthier version, one we could make in a slow cooker. Tackling it head-on, we started by adding just a little bacon to the mix, which infused the sauce with smoky undertones; to keep things easy, we microwaved it along with the aromatics, which included a hefty dose of garlic and pungent minced rosemary. As for the chickpeas, whose nutty flavor paired well with the earthy kale, we found that pureeing half of them in the blender with some of the broth gave the sauce body that would otherwise have come from cream. The kale was added raw to the slow cooker along with the bacon mixture, the pureed and whole beans, and the remaining chicken broth. At the end of the cooking time, we had a flavorful, brothy pasta sauce that needed just lemon zest and juice for brightening and Parmesan cheese for added richness.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, bacon, garlic, rosemary, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Process half of chickpeas and 1 cup broth in blender until smooth, about 30 seconds; transfer to slow cooker. Stir remaining chickpeas, remaining 1¼ cups broth, kale, and ½ teaspoon pepper into slow cooker. Cover and cook until kale is tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
3. Stir in Parmesan and lemon zest and juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Canned Chickpeas
Think all brands of canned chickpeas taste the same? So did we—until we tried six brands in a side-by-side taste test. Once we drained and rinsed the beans, we found that many of them were incredibly bland or, worse yet, had bitter and metallic flavors. Tasters preferred those that were well seasoned and had a creamy yet “al dente” texture. Pastene Chickpeas came out on top for their clean flavor and firm yet tender texture.
A Parmesan rind adds nutty richness to this rustic sauce, to which we add bright, assertive chopped escarole at the end.
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS; ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND PASTA ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The moist cooking environment of the slow cooker turns beans perfectly creamy and tender, so we set about using the slow cooker to create a sauce that paid homage to the classic dish of beans, greens, and pasta. Cannellini beans offered an earthy flavor and ultracreamy texture after simmering in chicken broth for several hours. Borrowing a trick used in many stew recipes, we mashed some of the beans to help thicken the sauce. For the greens, we opted for escarole, which we chopped and added to the slow cooker for the last 20 minutes of cooking so it would wilt but retain its color. Diced tomatoes and dried thyme, cooked with the beans, contributed brightness and woodsy notes, and a Parmesan cheese rind (another trick used in stews and sauces) offered complexity and bolstered the flavor of our sauce—and made use of an often-overlooked byproduct of pasta night. For an easy garnish, we stirred crisp bacon pieces into the finished sauce for some crunch and salty, savory bites.
1. Cook bacon in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel-lined bowl; set aside.
2. Add onion to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 cup broth, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 4 cups broth, beans, tomatoes, Parmesan rind (if using), ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper into slow cooker. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
4. Discard Parmesan rind, if using. Transfer 1 cup of bean-tomato mixture to separate bowl and mash with potato masher until mostly smooth. Stir escarole and mashed bean mixture into slow cooker, cover, and cook on high until escarole is tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Stir in bacon and oil, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Escarole
Escarole, a kind of chicory, is a leafy green that looks like green leaf lettuce. Its bitter flavor makes it a great choice for peppery salads, a good accent for romaine, or delicious with just a simple vinaigrette. Unlike lettuce, however, escarole stands up well to cooking, which makes it a great addition to this hearty soup. Make sure to slice or chop the escarole before washing it well. Use a salad spinner to wash it, as the fine, feathery leaves tend to hold a lot of soil.
CHAPTER 11
Brown Rice with Parmesan and Herbs ■ ■ ■
Mexican Rice ■ ■
Middle Eastern Basmati Rice Pilaf ■ ■ ■
Wild Rice Pilaf with Cranberries and Pecans ■ ■
Herbed Barley Pilaf ■ ■ ■
Spiced Barley Pilaf with Dates and Parsley ■ ■ ■
Creamy Farro with Mushrooms and Thyme ■ ■
Creamy Orzo with Parmesan and Peas ■
Creamy Parmesan Polenta ■ ■ ■
No-Fuss Quinoa with Lemon ■ ■ ■
No-Fuss Quinoa with Corn and Jalapeño ■ ■ ■
Wheat Berries with Carrots and Oranges ■ ■ ■
Braised Lentils with Escarole ■ ■
Braised Chickpeas ■ ■ ■ ■
Braised White Beans with Olive Oil and Sage ■ ■ ■
Mexican-Style Beans ■ ■ ■
Refried Beans ■ ■
■ EASY PREP
■ VEGETARIAN
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
Brown Rice with Parmesan and Herbs
Boiling water and a parchment shield are the secrets to making brown rice in a slow cooker.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS It’s true that brown rice takes longer than white rice to cook, and that it can be trickier to cook evenly. We wondered if the steady, gentle heat of the slow cooker would take the challenge out of cooking brown rice. After some experiments that resulted in burnt rice and undercooked grains, we learned that while brown rice needs a head start with boiling water in the slow cooker, it can indeed emerge with light and fluffy grains every time. Cooking on high was best, and we laid a piece of parchment paper over the rice to protect the grains on top from drying out as the water was absorbed. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine boiling water, rice, butter, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in prepared slow cooker. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of water, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until rice is tender and all water is absorbed, 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Fluff rice with fork, then gently fold in Parmesan, basil, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 6 VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This easy variation on plain white rice is the perfect accompaniment to enchiladas and tacos, as well as to many simply prepared meat and fish dishes. Cumin, tomato paste, and minced garlic infused the rice with flavor as it cooked, while a few ingredients stirred in before serving—cilantro, scallions, and lime juice—provided bright, zesty flavor. As with our other rice dishes, we found that long-grain white rice cooked best on high, and we laid a piece of parchment paper over the mixture to prevent the grains on top from drying out as the water was absorbed. Basmati rice can be substituted for the long-grain white rice. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, jalapeños, tomato paste, oil, garlic, cumin, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Microwave broth in bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth and rice into slow cooker. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of broth, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until rice is tender and all broth is absorbed, 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Discard parchment. Fluff rice with fork, then gently fold in cilantro, scallions, and lime juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
RINSING RICE AND GRAINS
Place rice or grains in fine-mesh strainer and rinse under cool water until water runs clear, occasionally stirring lightly with your hand. Let drain briefly.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For an easy aromatic side dish that’s big on flavor, we paired basmati rice with warm spices, dried currants, and crunchy toasted almonds. As with other rice dishes, we found that basmati cooked best on high, and we laid a piece of parchment paper over the mixture to prevent the grains on top from drying out as the water was absorbed. We prefer the flavor of basmati rice in this recipe, but long-grain white rice can be substituted. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave oil, garlic, turmeric, and cinnamon in bowl until fragrant, about 1 minute, stirring halfway through microwaving; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Stir boiling water, rice, currants, and ½ teaspoon salt into slow cooker. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of water, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until rice is tender and all water is absorbed, 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Fluff rice with fork, then gently fold in almonds. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Wild Rice Pilaf with Cranberries and Pecans
For great-tasting wild rice, we cook it along with heated broth, aromatics, and dried cranberries.
SERVES 6 TO 8 VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We love wild rice, with its chewy outer husk and nutty, savory flavor, but it can be a chore to cook on the stovetop. We wanted to take advantage of the slow cooker to make wild rice an easy, hands-off affair. Since wild rice can easily go from tough to pasty, it was crucial to find the ratio of liquid to rice that would give our slow-cooker wild rice pilaf the right texture. After several tests, we found that 2½ cups broth to 1½ cups wild rice produced rice that was evenly cooked and not wet or mushy. In pinning down the cooking time, we discovered that heating the broth improved the texture of the rice and also contributed to evenly cooked grains. We also laid a piece of parchment paper over the mixture to prevent the grains on top from drying out as the water was absorbed. To keep this dish simple yet flavorful, we stirred in dried cranberries, which plumped nicely as the rice cooked, and their sweetness provided a good counterpoint to the nutty rice. A handful of toasted pecans and a sprinkling of fresh parsley added at the end of cooking contributed texture and color without much fuss, enabling this dish to go from slow cooker to table in no time. Do not use quick-cooking or presteamed wild rice in this recipe; you may need to read the ingredient list on the package carefully to determine if the wild rice is presteamed. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, oil, thyme, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Microwave broth in bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth, rice, and cranberries into slow cooker. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of broth, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until rice is tender and all broth is absorbed, 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Discard parchment. Fluff rice with fork, then gently fold in pecans and parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Shopping for Wild Rice
When we tasted five widely available brands, textural differences stood out the most; our top three cooked up springy and firm, while the other two blew out. Processing methods accounted for the differences. To create a shelf-stable product, manufacturers heat the grains, which gelatinizes their starches and drives out moisture, using one of two methods: parching or parboiling. To parch, manufacturers load batches of rice into cylinders, which spin over a fire—an inexact process that produces less-toothsome results. Parboiling, a newer method, steams the grains in a controlled pressurized environment for more uniform and complete gelatinization, which translates into rice that cooks more evenly. Our favorite brand, Goose Valley Wild Rice, boasted tender grains with a crunchy exterior.
SERVES 6 VEG
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Risotto demands attention from start to finish, which is why this hands-off version is so appealing. Instead of sautéing, we gave our risotto rich flavor by microwaving onion with garlic, thyme, and butter before adding the mixture to the slow-cooker. Adding all the broth at once led to blown-out grains and a mushy risotto, so we stirred in 2 cups of hot broth at the outset and gently stirred in more at the end to guarantee an ultracreamy texture. Arborio rice, which is high in starch, gives risotto its characteristic creaminess; do not substitute other types of rice here. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, 2 tablespoons butter, garlic, thyme, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Microwave 2 cups broth and wine in 4-cup liquid measuring cup until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth mixture and rice into slow cooker. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of broth mixture, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until rice is almost fully tender and all liquid is absorbed, 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Microwave remaining 3 cups broth in now-empty measuring cup until steaming, about 5 minutes. Discard parchment. Slowly stream broth into rice, stirring gently, until liquid is absorbed and risotto is creamy, about 1 minute. Gently stir in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, Parmesan, chives, and lemon juice until combined. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
It is far easier to make risotto in the slow cooker than on the stove, as you need to add more broth only at the end.
SERVES 6 TO 8 VEG
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Risotto usually demands a cook’s attention from start to finish, which is why our slow-cooker version is so appealing. We microwaved garlic and chopped onion and then stirred in white wine, allowing the grains to absorb the liquid. Since adding all the broth at once led to blown-out grains and a mushy risotto, we stirred in 2 cups of hot broth at the outset and gently stirred in more at the end for an ultracreamy texture. Butternut squash offered sweetness and color, and butter, Parmesan, and fresh sage ramped up the richness and flavor of our effortless risotto. Arborio rice, which is high in starch, gives risotto its characteristic creaminess; do not substitute other types of rice here. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, 2 tablespoons butter, garlic, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Microwave 2 cups broth and wine in 4-cup liquid measuring cup until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth mixture, squash, and rice into slow cooker. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of broth mixture, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until rice is almost fully tender and all liquid is absorbed, 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Microwave remaining 3 cups broth in now-empty measuring cup until steaming, about 5 minutes. Discard parchment. Slowly stream broth into rice, stirring gently, until liquid is absorbed and risotto is creamy, about 1 minute. Gently stir in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, Parmesan, sage, and lemon juice until combined. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
For this pilaf, we first toast the barley in the microwave, which sets its structure and keeps it from turning mushy.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For an everyday barley pilaf, we needed to find the right liquid-to-barley ratio for the slow cooker. After a few tests, we found that 3½ cups broth to 1½ cups barley produced barley that was cooked through once all the broth had been absorbed, though the texture was on the soft side. Reducing the amount of liquid wasn’t an option because it resulted in unevenly cooked barley. To maintain a bit of the grains’ toothsome structure and ensure even cooking, we briefly toasted the barley in the microwave before adding it to the slow cooker. All this pilaf needed was a bit of fresh herbs before serving. Do not substitute hulled, hull-less, quick-cooking, or presteamed barley (read the ingredient list on the package to determine this) in this recipe.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, barley, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, thyme, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and barley is lightly toasted, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in broth, cover, and cook until barley is tender and all broth is absorbed, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Fluff barley with fork, then gently fold in basil and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a distinctive variation on our easy Herbed Barley Pilaf, we added a potent blend of Indian-inspired spices—ginger, cinnamon, and cardamom—plus dates for sweetness. Do not substitute hulled, hull-less, quick-cooking, or presteamed barley (read the ingredient list on the package to determine this) in this recipe.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, barley, 1 tablespoon oil, ginger, ½ teaspoon salt, cinnamon, and cardamom in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and barley is lightly toasted, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in broth, cover, and cook until barley is tender and all broth is absorbed, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Fluff barley with fork, then gently fold in dates, parsley, lemon juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
CHOPPING DRIED FRUIT
To prevent dried fruit from sticking to knife, coat blade with thin film of vegetable oil spray before chopping.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Barley
While barley might be most familiar as a key ingredient in beer, in fact it is a nutritious high-fiber, high-protein, and low-fat cereal grain with a nutty flavor similar to that of brown rice. It is great in soups and salads, as risotto, and as a simple side dish. Barley is available in multiple forms. Hulled barley, which is sold with the hull removed and the fiber-rich bran intact, is considered a whole grain and is higher in nutrients in comparison with pearl (or pearled) barley, which is hulled barley that has been polished to remove the bran. There is also quick-cooking barley, which is available as kernels or flakes. Hulled barley takes a long time to cook and should be soaked prior to cooking. Pearl barley cooks much more quickly, making it a more versatile choice when you are adding it to soups or making risotto or pilaf.
Creamy Farro with Mushrooms and Thyme
Farro turns luxuriously creamy in the slow cooker, and here we boost its flavor with mushrooms, thyme, and Parmesan.
SERVES 4 TO 6 VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Farro’s nutty, mild flavor will happily lend itself to almost any culinary direction, but as it’s a popular ingredient in Tuscan cuisine, we decided to give this dish a simple and fresh Italian profile. We started by softening our aromatics—shallots, porcini mushrooms, garlic, and thyme—in the microwave. Cremini mushrooms lent the dish meatiness, and sherry was a natural complement and added complexity. Once our farro was tender, we stirred in just enough Parmesan to create a luxurious, creamy texture without overwhelming our well-balanced dish. Finishing with a couple tablespoons of fresh parsley added brightness and freshness that balanced the hearty, savory flavors. Do not use quick-cooking or presteamed farro (the ingredient list on the package will specify the type) in this recipe.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave shallots, porcini mushrooms, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, thyme, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl, stirring occasionally, until shallots are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker.
2. Microwave 2 cups broth and sherry in bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth mixture, cremini mushrooms, and farro into slow cooker. Cover and cook until farro is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
3. Microwave remaining ½ cup broth in bowl until steaming, about 2 minutes. Stir broth and Parmesan into farro until mixture is creamy. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Stir in parsley and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
Creamy Orzo with Parmesan and Peas
This creamy orzo dish is great served alongside roasted chicken or fish.
SERVES 4 TO 6 VEG
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a side dish of tender—not mushy— orzo, we toasted our pasta in butter in the microwave before moving it to the slow cooker, then added hot broth to jump-start its cooking. Grated Parmesan and a couple more pats of butter, added at the end, gave us a rich-tasting dish with a creamy texture. Stirring frozen peas in at the end of cooking ensured they stayed bright and fresh-tasting. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Microwave orzo, onion, garlic, 1 tablespoon butter, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until orzo is lightly toasted and onion is softened, 5 to 7 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Microwave 2 cups broth and wine in bowl until steaming, about 5 minutes. Stir broth mixture into slow cooker, cover, and cook until orzo is al dente, 1 to 2 hours on high.
3. Sprinkle peas over orzo, cover, and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Microwave remaining ½ cup broth in bowl until steaming, about 2 minutes. Stir broth, Parmesan, lemon zest, and remaining 2 tablespoons butter into orzo until mixture is creamy. Adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Many polenta recipes deliver rich creaminess by piling on hefty amounts of cheese and butter. Not wanting to sacrifice creaminess or texture, we focused on getting the polenta perfectly tender. Remarkably, thanks to the gentle heat of the slow cooker, our typical ratio of liquid to polenta worked just fine. Instead of using all water and stirring in lots of butter at the end, we added 1 cup of whole milk up front. This helped to deliver the same rich, creamy texture but with substantially less fat and calories. We finished the dish by steeping a sprig of rosemary in the polenta to infuse herbal flavor without adding bits of herbs to disturb the smooth texture of the dish. Just a cup of nutty Parmesan and a couple pats of butter stirred in at the end gave the polenta richness and flavor while keeping the dish light. Coarse-ground degerminated cornmeal such as yellow grits (with uniform grains the size of couscous) works best in this recipe. Avoid instant or quick-cooking products, as well as whole-grain, stone-ground, and regular cornmeal.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Whisk water, milk, cornmeal, garlic, and 1 teaspoon salt together in prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook until polenta is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Nestle rosemary sprig into polenta, if using, cover, and let steep for 10 minutes; discard rosemary sprig. Whisk Parmesan and butter into polenta until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Polenta can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with extra hot water as needed before serving.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Parmesan Cheese
Parmesan is a hard, grainy cheese made from cow’s milk. It has a rich, sharp flavor and a melt-in-your-mouth texture. We frequently reach for it to sprinkle on top of pasta dishes or to add a rich, salty flavor to sauces, soups, and stews.
BUYING PARMESAN We recommend authentic Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano. Most of the other Parmesan-type cheeses are too salty and one-dimensional. When shopping, make sure some portion of the words “Parmigiano-Reggiano” is stenciled on the golden rind. To ensure that you’re buying a properly aged cheese, examine the condition of the rind. It should be a few shades darker than the straw-colored interior and penetrate about ½ inch deep. And closely scrutinize the center of the cheese. Those small white spots found on many samples are actually good things—they signify the presence of calcium phosphate crystals, which are formed only after the cheese has been aged for the proper amount of time.
STORING PARMESAN The best way to preserve the flavor and texture of Parmesan is to wrap it first in parchment paper, then aluminum foil. However, if you have just a small piece of cheese, tossing it in a zipper-lock bag works almost as well; just be sure to squeeze out as much air as possible before sealing the bag. Note that these methods also work for Pecorino Romano.
PARMESAN VERSUS PECORINO ROMANO While Parmesan is a cow’s-milk cheese, Pecorino Romano is made from sheep’s milk, but the two do have a similar texture and flavor. We have found that Parmesan and Pecorino Romano generally can be used interchangeably, especially when the amount called for is moderate. However, when Parmesan is called for in larger quantities, it is best to stick with the Parmesan, as Pecorino Romano can be fairly pungent.
CAN YOU PREGRATE YOUR OWN PARMESAN? Tasters were hard-pressed to detect any difference between freshly grated Parmesan and cheese that had been grated and stored for up to three weeks. To grind Parmesan, cut a block into 1-inch chunks. Place the chunks in a food processor and process until ground into coarse particles, about 20 seconds. Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We love quinoa for its nutty taste and ease of preparation. To keep the grains separate and fluffy during cooking, we toasted them in the microwave before adding them to the slow cooker. We dressed the quinoa simply, with lemon and parsley, to make a universally appealing side dish. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Be sure to rinse the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer before using; rinsing removes the quinoa’s bitter protective coating (called saponins).
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave quinoa, onion, 1 tablespoon oil, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until quinoa is lightly toasted and onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in water and lemon zest. Cover and cook until quinoa is tender and all water is absorbed, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Discard lemon zest. Fluff quinoa with fork, then gently fold in lemon juice, parsley, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
No-Fuss Quinoa with Corn and Jalapeño
It is supereasy to make fluffy quinoa in the slow cooker, and here we jazz it up with minced chiles, corn, and cilantro.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this quinoa side dish we turned to Southwestern flavors, adding jalapeños, lime, and corn. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Be sure to rinse the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer before using; rinsing removes the quinoa’s bitter protective coating (called saponins).
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave quinoa, onion, jalapeños, 1 tablespoon oil, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until quinoa is lightly toasted and vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in water, cover, and cook until quinoa is tender and all water is absorbed, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Sprinkle corn over quinoa, cover, and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Fluff quinoa with fork, then gently fold in cilantro, lime juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Orange and tarragon are a classic pairing, and it’s easy to understand why: sweet-tart orange boosts and brightens tarragon’s grassy licorice notes, creating a remarkably vibrant flavor. This combination shone against a backdrop of mildly nutty wheat berries, especially after we added shredded carrots for crunch and orange zest for a deeper citrus flavor. A simple red wine vinaigrette finished off this fresh, crowd-pleasing salad with a sophisticated mix of flavors. We found cooking our wheat berries in a large amount of water, much as we would cook pasta, worked best and produced the most evenly cooked results. If using quick-cooking or presteamed wheat berries (the ingredient list on the package specifies the type), you will need to decrease the cooking time in step 1. The wheat berries will retain a chewy texture once fully cooked.
1. Combine 5 cups water, wheat berries, bay leaf, and ½ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Cover and cook until wheat berries are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Drain wheat berries, transfer to large serving bowl, and let cool slightly. Cut away peel and pith from orange. Quarter orange, then slice crosswise into ¼-inch-thick pieces.
3. Whisk shallot, vinegar, oil, mustard, honey, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and orange zest together in separate bowl. Add orange and any accumulated juices, vinaigrette, carrots, and tarragon to wheat berries, and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Lentils are amazingly versatile: Their mild earthiness makes it easy to pair them with a wide range of flavors, and, depending on the variety of lentil and the cooking method, their consistency can range from a silky, smooth dal to the just barely toothsome bite of a French lentil salad. For this side we envisioned something in between—distinct, tender lentils in a brothy sauce thickened by the lentils themselves. We started by deliberately veering away from our slow-cooker technique for perfect salad lentils. Usually, to ensure they cook evenly without blowing out, we use abundant liquid, often with a touch of acid (which helps keep them firm while cooking), and then drain them. In this case, since we actually wanted to release some starches, we wouldn’t mind a few burst lentils. So we skipped the acid and used just enough broth, fortified with some simple aromatics, to submerge our lentils. The result was just what we had hoped for—tender lentils in a ready-made sauce. We wanted to keep the dish simple, just wilting in escarole for some heft, and found its bitterness the perfect foil to the lentils’ earthy base. A final stir-in of olive oil and lemon juice, and a sprinkling of Parmesan, brought our dish into perfect balance. We prefer French green lentils, lentilles du Puy, for this recipe, but it will work with any type of lentil except red or yellow.
1. Microwave onion, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth and lentils, cover, and cook until lentils are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Stir in escarole, 1 handful at a time, until slightly wilted. Cover and cook on high until escarole is completely wilted, about 10 minutes. Stir in Parmesan, lemon juice, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Season with salt, pepper, and extra lemon juice to taste. Serve.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS BAKED BEANS
SERVES 6 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
Traditional baked beans rely on a long, slow cooking time in a low oven and require careful adjustment of the cooking liquid in order to get perfectly cooked beans with just the right amount of syrupy, but not cloyingly sweet, sauce. While the gentle, steady heat of the slow cooker seemed like the perfect fit for beans, we were in for a surprise. While we were able to get silky, tender beans after 8 to 9 hours of cooking on the high setting, we weren’t able to replicate those results on low; even after 16 hours of cooking, we still had crunchy, inconsistent beans. So we settled on cooking the beans exclusively on high. Our method perfected, we next created five baked bean recipes, ranging from tried-and-true Boston Baked Beans to unconventional Peach-Bourbon Baked Beans, showcasing the best of this sweet and savory comfort food. The finished beans can be held on the warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust their consistency with hot water as needed before serving.
1 BOSTON BAKED BEANS
1. Microwave onion, salt pork, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water, beans, 2 tablespoons molasses, 2 tablespoons sugar, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Discard bay leaves. Drain beans, reserving ¾ cup cooking liquid. Return beans to now-empty slow cooker. Stir in reserved cooking liquid, soy sauce, vinegar, mustard, remaining 3 tablespoon molasses, and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Cover and cook on high until beans are thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
2 BARBECUED BAKED BEANS
1. Microwave onion, bacon, garlic, oil, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water, beans, ¼ cup barbecue sauce, coffee, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Discard bay leaves. Drain beans, reserving ¾ cup cooking liquid. Return beans to now-empty slow cooker. Stir in reserved cooking liquid, vinegar, mustard, and remaining ¼ cup barbecue sauce. Cover and cook on high until beans are thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and hot sauce to taste. Serve.
3 COUNTRY-STYLE BAKED BEANS
1. Microwave bratwurst, onion, bacon, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and cayenne in bowl, stirring and occasionally breaking up meat with wooden spoon, until sausage is no longer pink, 6 to 8 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water, beans, tomatoes, ¼ cup barbecue sauce, and ¼ cup ketchup. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Drain beans, reserving ¾ cup cooking liquid. Return beans to now empty slow cooker. Stir in reserved cooking liquid, mustard, vinegar, remaining 2 tablespoons barbecue sauce, and remaining 2 tablespoons ketchup. Cover and cook on high until beans are thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
4 PEACH-BOURBON BAKED BEANS
1. Microwave onion, bacon, thyme, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water, beans, peaches, 2 tablespoons sugar, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Discard bay leaves. Drain beans, reserving ¾ cup cooking liquid. Return beans to now-empty slow cooker. Stir in reserved cooking liquid, peach preserves, bourbon, vinegar, mustard, ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Cover and cook on high until beans are thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
5 HONEY-MUSTARD BAKED BEANS
1. Microwave onion, oil, thyme, ginger, coriander, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water, beans, 2 tablespoons honey, and bay leaves. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Discard bay leaves. Drain beans, reserving ¾ cup cooking liquid. Return beans to now-empty slow cooker. Stir in reserved cooking liquid, mustard, vinegar, ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining 2 tablespoons honey. Cover and cook on high until beans are thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
We mash a portion of the cooked chickpeas with the braising liquid for a side dish with just the right creamy texture.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Chickpeas have a great buttery texture, and they easily soak up the flavors of other ingredients they’re cooked with, making them ideal for cooking in a flavor-packed broth over a long, slow stint in the slow cooker. We infused broth with distinctive sweet smoked paprika and a sliced red onion for flavor and texture. Once our chickpeas were perfectly tender and creamy, we drained away all but a cup of the cooking liquid, using what we reserved to create a simple, smoky sauce. Mashing a portion of the beans enhanced the creamy consistency of the dish, and citrusy cilantro added brightness and a simple colorful finish.
1. Microwave onion, oil, paprika, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, water, and chickpeas. Cover and cook until chickpeas are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Drain chickpeas, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Return one-third of chickpeas and reserved cooking liquid to now-empty slow cooker and mash with potato masher until smooth. Stir in remaining chickpeas and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Chickpeas can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed before serving.)
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Perfect alongside pork, chicken, or fish, these slow-cooked beans deliver rich flavor and a creamy, tender texture. The beans themselves—we found that small white beans worked well here—required no prep, other than being picked over and rinsed. To ensure that the beans took on robust flavor during their long stint in the slow cooker, we cooked them with onion, a hefty amount of garlic, and a little sage. Once the beans were perfectly cooked, we drained the mixture and reserved a cup of the flavorful cooking liquid to stir back into the beans. We then mashed a portion of the beans to thicken the sauce and enhance the creamy consistency of the dish. Extra olive oil and fresh sage stirred in at the end enhanced the earthy, herbaceous flavors.
1. Microwave onion, garlic, 1 tablespoon oil, 1 teaspoon sage, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in broth, water, and beans. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Drain beans, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Return one-third of beans and reserved cooking liquid to now-empty slow cooker and mash with potato masher until smooth. Stir in remaining beans, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and remaining 1 teaspoon sage. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Beans can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed before serving.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Dried Beans
Canned beans are undeniably convenient, and in many cases they work as well as or even better than dried. However, there are instances when dried beans are central to the success of a recipe. Here’s what to know about them.
BUYING When shopping for beans, it’s essential to select “fresh” dried beans. Buy those that are uniform in size and have a smooth exterior. When dried beans are fully hydrated and cooked, they should be plump, with taut skins, and have creamy insides; spent beans will have wrinkled skin and a dry, almost gritty texture.
STORING Uncooked beans should be stored in a cool, dry place in a sealed plastic or glass container. Beans are less susceptible than rice and grains to pests and spoilage, but it is still best to use them within a month or two.
SORTING AND RINSING Prior to cooking, you should pick over dried beans for any small stones or debris and then rinse the beans to wash away any dust or impurities. The easiest way to check for small stones is to spread the beans on a large plate or rimmed baking sheet.
SOAKING While we typically recommend salt-soaking beans for traditional stovetop recipes to soften their skins and encourage even cooking, we find the low, slow cooking of the slow cooker allows us to skip this step without any negative results.
Simmered all day in the slow cooker, black beans become perfectly tender and here are flavored with a ham hock.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Served at almost every meal, black beans are at the heart of Cuban cuisine. Prior testing left us confident in our method for cooking the beans, so we turned our attention to building layers of flavor. Pork is commonly added to the beans for much-needed depth, so we began there. After trying bacon, ham, and a ham hock, we liked the smoky depth the ham hock lent. Instead of adding aromatics to the beans at the start of cooking, we favored the custom of stirring a sofrito (typically sautéed onion, garlic, and green bell pepper) into the cooked beans instead. Microwaving the sofrito until the vegetables were tender saved us time and did not compromise flavor. This addition, along with minced cilantro and lime juice, provided a fresh layer of flavor without overwhelming the beans. Some recipes suggested pureeing the sofrito with some of the beans to thicken the sauce, but we preferred simply mashing the sofrito along with a portion of the beans and a little of the cooking liquid. The texture of these beans is typically looser than that achieved in other bean recipes.
1. Combine water, beans, ham hock, and bay leaves in slow cooker. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Transfer ham hock to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat, skin, and bones. Discard bay leaves.
3. Microwave onion, bell pepper, garlic, oil, oregano, and cumin in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Drain beans, reserving 1½ cups cooking liquid. Add vegetable mixture, one-third of beans, and reserved cooking liquid to now-empty slow cooker and mash with potato masher until mostly smooth. Stir in remaining beans, ham, cilantro, and lime juice. Season with salt, pepper, and extra lime juice to taste. Serve. (Beans can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with extra hot water as needed before serving.)
CUTTING UP A BELL PEPPER
1. Slice off top and bottom of pepper and remove seeds and stem. Slice down through side of pepper.
2. Lay pepper flat and trim away remaining ribs and seeds. Cut pepper as directed in recipe.
Smoky chipotle chiles and beer form the flavor backbone of these assertive Mexican beans.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS To deliver flavorful, robust Mexican-style beans from the slow cooker we needed to amp up the aromatics and spices. Since the beans required a full 6 cups of liquid to cook evenly in the slow cooker, we knew that we would need to drain away some of that cooking liquid. To ensure that our beans remained full of flavor, we boosted the amount of garlic, oregano, and chili powder. For an extra dimension of flavor, we also added smoky chipotle chiles in adobo sauce and exchanged 1 cup of water for beer. When we stirred 1 cup of reserved cooking liquid back into the tender beans, we created a sauce that was rich and bold. A little bit of brown sugar rounded things out, and a hit of fresh lime juice and cilantro added brightness at the end.
1. Microwave onion, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, oregano, chili powder, chipotle, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water, beans, and beer. Cover and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Drain beans, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Return beans and reserved cooking liquid to now-empty slow cooker. Stir in cilantro, sugar, lime juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt, pepper, and extra lime juice to taste. Serve. (Beans can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with extra hot water as needed before serving.)
Canned refried beans pale in comparison to this ultraflavorful version infused with aromatics and bacon.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Homemade refried beans, infused with rich pork flavor, a subtle heat, and warm spice notes, are worlds apart from the canned stuff, but making them takes time. For great refried beans for our tacos, tostadas, and nachos, we put our slow cooker to work and developed a recipe that was flavor-packed but hands-off. We started with dried pintos (the usual pick for refried beans) and added them right to the slow cooker—no advance soaking or simmering needed. Chicken broth provided a flavorful cooking liquid, and garlic, onion, and cumin offered the requisite aromatic and warm spice notes. A poblano chile upped the heat level, and two slices of bacon infused the beans with smoky, savory depth. To jump-start the cooking of the aromatics and spices and deepen their flavor, we microwaved them briefly with the bacon, which rendered some fat and took the place of any vegetable oil. Once the beans were tender, we discarded the spent bacon strips and mashed the beans. Cilantro and lime juice added brightness and gave our dish authentic south-of-the-border flavor.
1. Microwave onion, poblano, bacon, garlic, and cumin in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in beans and broth, cover, and cook until beans are tender, 8 to 9 hours on high.
2. Discard bacon. Drain beans, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Return beans and reserved cooking liquid to now-empty slow cooker and mash with potato masher until smooth. Stir in cilantro, lime juice, and ½ teaspoon salt. Season with salt, pepper, and extra lime juice to taste. Serve. (Beans can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with extra hot broth as needed before serving.)
CHAPTER 12
Braised Artichokes ■ ■ ■
Mediterranean Braised Green Beans ■ ■ ■
Beets with Oranges and Walnuts ■ ■
Brussels Sprouts with Lemon, Thyme, and Bacon ■
Sweet and Sour Braised Red Cabbage
Glazed Carrots ■ ■ ■
Mashed Cauliflower ■ ■ ■ ■
Braised Cauliflower with Lemon-Caper Dressing ■ ■ ■
Creamed Corn ■ ■
Braised Fennel with Orange-Tarragon Dressing ■ ■ ■ ■
Southern Braised Collard Greens ■ ■
Braised Kale with Garlic and Chorizo ■
Braised Swiss Chard with Shiitakes and Peanuts ■ ■ ■
MAKE IT 5 WAYS: Mashed Potatoes
Garlic and Parmesan Mashed Potatoes ■ ■
Mashed Potatoes and Root Vegetables ■ ■
Olive Oil–Rosemary Mashed Potatoes ■ ■
Mashed Sweet Potatoes ■ ■ ■
Buttermilk Smashed Red Potatoes ■ ■
Red Potatoes with Rosemary and Garlic ■ ■
Lemon-Herb Fingerling Potatoes ■ ■ ■
Braised Butternut Squash with Pecans and Cranberries ■ ■
Maple-Orange Glazed Acorn Squash ■ ■ ■
Slow-Cooked Tomatoes with Olive Oil ■ ■
■ EASY PREP
■ VEGETARIAN
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
Once trimmed, whole artichokes sit nicely in the slow cooker and cook perfectly in the moist heat environment.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP VEG ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Whole artichokes with drawn butter make for an impressive side dish or starter. To ensure that we didn’t have to prep or cook them while also getting dinner going, we moved the artichokes to the slow cooker so the leaves could simmer unattended until tender. Prep was easy: We simply trimmed the artichokes and placed them upright in the slow cooker with a little water. Tossing them with a bit of lemon juice and olive oil beforehand helped to preserve their color. For a simple yet boldly flavored dipping sauce, we melted butter with more lemon juice and some minced garlic. If your artichokes are larger than 8 to 10 ounces, strip away another layer or two of the toughest outer leaves. The tender inner leaves, heart, and stem are entirely edible. To eat the tough outer leaves, use your teeth to scrape the flesh out from the underside of each leaf. These artichokes taste great warm or at room temperature. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Using chef’s knife, cut off stems so artichokes sit upright, then trim off top quarter of each artichoke. Using kitchen shears, trim off top portion of outer leaves. Toss artichokes with 2 tablespoons lemon juice and oil in bowl, then place right side up in slow cooker. Add ½ cup water, cover, and cook until outer leaves of artichokes pull away easily and tip of paring knife inserted into stem end meets no resistance, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Microwave remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice, butter, garlic, and salt in bowl until butter is melted, about 30 seconds. Whisk butter mixture to combine, then divide evenly among 4 serving bowls. Remove artichokes from slow cooker, letting any excess cooking liquid drain back into insert, and place artichokes in bowls with butter. Serve.
TRIMMING ARTICHOKES
1. Cut stem off each artichoke with chef’s knife so that base is even, then trim off top quarter of artichoke.
2. Using kitchen shears, cut off dry, sharp tips from remaining outer leaves.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Assessing Artichokes
When selecting fresh artichokes at the market, look for leaves that are tight, compact, and bright green; they should not appear dried out or feathery at the edges. If you give an artichoke a squeeze, its leaves should squeak as they rub together (evidence that the artichoke still possesses much of its moisture). The leaves should also snap off cleanly; if they bend, the artichoke is old.
SERVES 4 TO 6 VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Using the slow cooker to gently braise green beans with the bold flavors of the Mediterranean turned them meltingly tender and infused them with big taste. Canned tomatoes made this dish too watery, so we used tomato paste to provide deep flavor and minimize the amount of liquid. Onion and garlic, along with oregano, provided an aromatic backbone. For subtle heat, we included a small amount of red pepper flakes. Briny capers, added at the end of cooking, made them stand out among the beans and provided a salty kick. For extra richness, we simply stirred in a second tablespoon of olive oil just before serving. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Microwave onion, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, oregano, ¾ teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in water and tomato paste, then stir in green beans. Cover and cook until green beans are tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Stir in remaining 1 tablespoon oil, capers, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Green beans can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
TRIMMING GREEN BEANS QUICKLY
Instead of trimming the ends from one green bean at a time, line up the beans on a cutting board and trim all the ends with just one slice.
Beets with Oranges and Walnuts
For perfectly cooked beets, we wrap them in foil before placing them in the slow cooker, then add water.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Roasting beets can take up to an hour, which is a long time for the oven to be occupied by a simple side, and steaming them can lead to a loss in flavor. Moving ours to the slow cooker both freed up the oven and guaranteed beets with an undiluted, earthy flavor. Wrapping the beets in aluminum foil and including ½ cup of water in the slow cooker ensured that they cooked through evenly. Rather than skin the beets when they were raw—which can be a messy endeavor—we waited until they were cooked and simply rubbed the skins off with paper towels. Cutting our beets into fork-friendly wedges made them easy to eat, and a simple white wine vinaigrette added brightness. Orange pieces, toasted walnuts, and minced chives turned our slow-cooked vegetable into an impressive bistro-style side dish. To ensure even cooking, we recommend using beets that are similar in size—roughly 3 inches in diameter. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Wrap beets individually in aluminum foil and place in slow cooker. Add ½ cup water, cover, and cook until beets are tender, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Transfer beets to cutting board and carefully remove foil (watch for steam). When beets are cool enough to handle, rub off skins with paper towels and cut into ½-inch-thick wedges.
3. Cut away peel and pith from oranges. Quarter oranges, then slice crosswise into ½-inch-thick pieces. Whisk vinegar, oil, and honey together in large bowl. Add beets and orange pieces, along with any accumulated juices, and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with walnuts and chives. Serve.
Brussels Sprouts with Lemon, Thyme, and Bacon
We dress up perfectly tender Brussels sprouts with crisp bacon, butter, lemon, and fresh thyme.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS These dressed-up Brussels sprouts are perfect for any table—and because we use the slow cooker, they leave the oven open for the main course. Chicken broth and thyme added savory depth, and a bit of lemon zest and juice contributed brightness. For added richness, we quickly crisped some bacon in the microwave and sprinkled it on top. When trimming the Brussels sprouts, be careful not to cut off too much of the stem end or the leaves will fall away from the core.
1. Combine Brussels sprouts, broth, and ½ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Cover and cook until Brussels sprouts are tender, 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Line plate with double layer of coffee filters. Spread bacon in even layer on filters and microwave until crisp, about 5 minutes. Drain Brussels sprouts and return to now-empty slow cooker. Stir in melted butter, lemon zest and juice, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with bacon and serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The slow cooker, with its moist heat environment, is perfect for braising cabbage. However, adding the cabbage directly to the slow cooker left it too crunchy for our liking. To get the texture just right, we had to precook it in the microwave to soften it slightly. This step had the added benefit of getting rid of excess moisture that was otherwise detracting from the flavors of the dish. For the braising medium we selected sweet and fruity apple cider, enhancing it with traditional spices such as cinnamon, caraway seeds, and allspice. A bit of sugar rounded out the sweetness, while vinegar perked up the flavors and added balance. Since tasters found the cabbage a little lean, we added bacon, which imparted a smoky depth and richness.
1. Microwave cabbage, oil, and ½ teaspoon salt in covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is softened, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain cabbage and transfer to slow cooker.
2. Cook bacon in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in thyme, caraway seeds, cinnamon, and allspice and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in ½ cup cider, scraping up any browned bits; transfer to slow cooker.
3. Stir remaining 1 cup cider, sugar, and bay leaves into slow cooker. Cover and cook until cabbage is tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
4. Discard bay leaves. Stir in vinegar and season with salt, pepper, extra sugar, and extra vinegar to taste. Serve. (Cabbage can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
SLICING CABBAGE
1. Cut cabbage into quarters, then trim and discard core.
2. Separate cabbage into small stacks of leaves that flatten when pressed.
3. Use chef’s knife to cut each stack of cabbage leaves into thin shreds.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Glazed carrots are one of those reliable side dishes we often turn to when hosting a holiday meal, and using the slow cooker eliminated all the last-minute fuss involved (and freed up the stovetop). Initially we tried cooking the carrots in broth, but it detracted from their delicate, sweet flavor. In the end, water that had been seasoned with a little sugar and salt was best for gently simmering the carrots. Once they were tender, we simply drained them and tossed them with tart orange marmalade and a pat of butter. The marmalade and butter melted to form a mock “glaze” that conveniently did not need to be reduced on the stovetop first. Simple, sweet, and delicious—nothing could be easier.
1. Combine carrots, ¾ cup water, sugar, and ¼ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Cover and cook until carrots are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Drain carrots and return to now-empty slow cooker. Stir in marmalade and butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Carrots can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a simple alternative to mashed potatoes, we decided to use cauliflower. Since cauliflower is low in fiber, it easily breaks down when cooked for an extended period of time, making it perfect for the slow cooker. This meant a creamy textured side dish could easily be achieved using only a potato masher. With just three key ingredients—cauliflower, water instead of broth, and salt—we aimed to keep the flavor of the cauliflower at the fore. Because the cooking liquid isn’t drained, a mere half-cup of water proved to be just enough to allow the cauliflower to cook perfectly without causing the sweet, nutty flavor developed during the long cooking time to become washed out. But tasters felt our cauliflower mash was too lean to be considered a mashed potato alternative. We solved this with a splash of heavy cream (a tablespoon of cream per pound of vegetables), which provided richness, while a sprinkle of chives added a bright, fresh finish. If you prefer to buy bagged cauliflower florets, rather than a head, you will need 3 pounds of florets. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount.
1. Combine cauliflower, boiling water, and 1½ teaspoons salt in slow cooker. Press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper firmly onto cauliflower, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until cauliflower is very tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Mash cauliflower with potato masher until almost completely broken down. Stir in cream and chives and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Cauliflower can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with extra hot water as needed before serving.)
Braised Cauliflower with Lemon-Caper Dressing
Made on the side, a zesty vinaigrette with capers and lemon is the perfect finishing touch to easy braised cauliflower.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted to add flavor to cauliflower without drowning it in a heavy blanket of cheese sauce, so we developed a recipe for braised cauliflower in our slow cooker. Since cauliflower can quickly go from perfectly tender to completely broken down we avoided small florets and instead sliced a head of cauliflower into thick wedges. A small amount of water seasoned with a little salt was best for gently braising the cauliflower. We also included a few smashed garlic cloves, thyme sprigs, and pepper flakes for added flavor. A bright dressing put a fresh Mediterranean spin on this simple side. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Combine 1 cup water, garlic, thyme sprigs, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes in slow cooker. Trim outer leaves of cauliflower and cut stem flush with bottom of head. Cut head into 8 equal wedges, keeping core and florets intact. Place wedges cut side down in slow cooker (wedges may overlap). Cover and cook until cauliflower is tender, 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Whisk oil, lemon zest and juice, capers, and parsley together in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Using slotted spoon, transfer cauliflower to serving dish, brushing away any garlic cloves or thyme sprigs that stick to cauliflower. Drizzle cauliflower with dressing. Serve.
CUTTING CAULIFLOWER INTO WEDGES
1. Remove outer leaves from cauliflower and cut stalk flush with bottom. Place head upside down and cut cauliflower crown in half through stalk.
2. Cut each half of crown in half to make 4 wedges, and cut each of those in half again to make 8 equal wedges.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Taste this homemade slow-cooker version of creamed corn, with its rich flavor and lush texture, and you’ll never dream of reaching for the canned alternative again. With loads of sweet corn flavor, this comforting side comes together with a minimum of prep and just a handful of pantry staples—shallot, garlic, thyme, and cayenne pepper. We knew fresh corn would be essential for flavor here. To get the best in both texture and flavor we used a combination of whole kernels cut away from the cobs and grated corn (the large holes of a box grater work best for this task). The kernels became tender yet maintained a slight bite owing to the gentle cooking environment of the slow cooker, while the grated corn contributed to a thicker body in the dish. Before discarding them, don’t forget to scrape the cobs with the back of a knife to collect the flavorful corn pulp and “milk.” This important step dramatically improves the corn flavor. Because heavy cream, unlike milk or half-and-half, can be simmered without curdling, it is essential here. Click here for information on making an aluminum foil collar.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Microwave shallot, melted butter, garlic, thyme, and cayenne in bowl, stirring occasionally, until shallot is softened, about 2 minutes.
2. Cut kernels from 3 ears of corn into large bowl, reserving cobs. Grate remaining 2 ears of corn over large holes of box grater into bowl with kernels, reserving cobs. Firmly scrape all cobs with back of butter knife into bowl with corn to collect pulp and milk.
3. Stir cream, shallot mixture, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper into bowl with corn; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook until corn is tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
4. Discard foil collar. Stir corn mixture to recombine and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Corn can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with hot water as needed before serving.)
PREPARING FRESH CORN
To remove the kernels from an ear of corn, stand the cob upright inside a large bowl; this will help catch any flying kernels. Then, using a paring knife, slice down along the sides of the cob to remove the kernels.
To keep the vegetables for our ratatouille from becoming soggy, we broil them before adding them to the slow cooker.
SERVES 8 TO 10 VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The slow cooker is tailor-made for long-cooked stews, but this Provençal dish is chock-full of watery vegetables, and the cooker doesn’t allow for any evaporation—a recipe for bland, runny ratatouille. Draining the canned tomatoes was a good start, and adding some instant tapioca at the outset helped, too. In the end, tossing the chopped vegetables with olive oil and a little sugar and broiling them before they went into the slow cooker not only added flavorful browning but also drove off moisture, creating a stewy—not soupy—dish. Garlic and herbes de Provence seasoned the ratatouille as it cooked, and Parmesan cheese and fresh basil finished it off. Herbes de Provence is a French blend that usually includes rosemary, marjoram, thyme, lavender, and fennel. If you can’t find it, you can use 1 teaspoon each of dried rosemary and dried thyme.
1. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with aluminum foil and spray with vegetable oil spray. Toss eggplant, zucchini, bell peppers, and onions with 6 tablespoons oil, sugar, garlic, and herbes de Provence in large bowl. Divide vegetables evenly between prepared sheets and spread in single layer. Broil, 1 sheet at a time, until vegetables begin to brown, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through broiling. Transfer vegetables and tomatoes to slow cooker.
2. Stir tapioca, 2½ teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper into vegetables. Cover and cook until vegetables are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high. Stir in Parmesan, basil, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Ratatouille can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with hot water as needed before serving.)
Braised Fennel with Orange-Tarragon Dressing
A braising liquid with smashed garlic cloves, fresh thyme, and juniper berries adds flavor to these fennel wedges.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 8 TO 9 HOURS ON LOW OR 5 TO 6 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted a recipe for braised fennel that would infuse the fennel with rich, savory flavor. Cutting the fennel into wedges turned out to be the key to evenly cooked fennel, and we made sure to braise it long enough to deliver uniformly tender but not mushy results. A combination of water, garlic, juniper berries, and thyme provided a base of seasoning for this appealing side dish, and we finished it off with a simple orange-tarragon dressing. Don’t core the fennel bulb before cutting it into wedges; the core will help hold the layers of fennel together during cooking. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Combine 1 cup water, garlic, thyme sprigs, juniper berries, and ½ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Place fennel wedges cut side down in slow cooker (wedges may overlap). Cover and cook until fennel is tender, 8 to 9 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.
2. Whisk oil, orange zest and juice, and tarragon together in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Using slotted spoon, transfer fennel to serving dish, brushing away any garlic cloves, thyme sprigs, or juniper berries that stick to fennel. Drizzle fennel with dressing. Serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 9 TO 10 HOURS ON LOW OR 6 TO 7 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Any Southerner will tell you that “lip-smacking” collard greens require long cooking and the smokiness of cured pork, and we tend to agree. Slow-cooking this hearty green in liquid tempers its assertive bitterness, making it perfectly suited to the slow cooker. Upon testing varying amounts of liquid, we found 4 cups to be ideal for 2 pounds of greens. This may not sound like a lot of liquid, but given the lack of significant evaporation and the slow cooker’s moist environment, this amount went a long way to ensure properly cooked collards without the need for them to be fully submerged. A combination of chicken broth (rather than water) and aromatics (onion and garlic) helped the greens develop great flavor, while a ham hock imparted characteristic smokiness. To round things out, pepper flakes were added for some subtle heat. We brightened up the liquid at the end of cooking with cider vinegar and the leftover cooking liquid, traditionally called pot “liquor” (or “likker”), can be sopped up with cornbread or biscuits, or used to cook a second batch of collard greens, as is traditionally done in the South.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, garlic, oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in collard greens and broth. Nestle ham hock into slow cooker. Cover and cook until collard greens are tender, 9 to 10 hours on low or 6 to 7 hours on high.
2. Transfer ham hock to cutting board, let cool slightly, then shred into bite-size pieces using 2 forks; discard fat, skin, and bones. Stir ham and vinegar into collard greens. Season with salt, pepper, and extra vinegar to taste. Serve with hot sauce. (Collard greens can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
Braised Kale with Garlic and Chorizo
Here hearty kale gets a big flavor boost from chorizo, which we microwave with garlic and oil before slow cooking.
SERVES 4 TO 6 ALL DAY
COOKING TIME 7 TO 8 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Using the slow cooker to prepare our hearty kale was a no-brainer—after all, a long cooking time helps to turn kale meltingly tender and tempers its assertive flavor. With the texture right where we wanted it, all we had to do was come up with a few flavorful ingredients to add to the pot. We liked a simple combination of chorizo and garlic, which gave these simple greens a meaty, spicy kick.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave chorizo, garlic, and oil in bowl, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in broth and ¼ teaspoon salt.
2. Microwave half of kale in covered bowl until slightly wilted, about 5 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in remaining kale, cover, and cook until kale is tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Kale can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For an Asian take on braised Swiss chard, we turned to toasted sesame oil, a hefty dose of grated fresh ginger, and minced garlic as our aromatic base. And for heartiness we added shiitake mushrooms, braising them along with the chard. Once the chard was perfectly tender, we stirred in rice vinegar and some additional ginger, keeping the flavors fresh and vibrant. A little butter added richness.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Microwave chard stems, mushrooms, garlic, 1 teaspoon ginger, 1 teaspoon oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in chard leaves, cover, and cook until chard is tender, 1 to 2 hours on high.
2. Stir in vinegar, butter, sugar, remaining 1 teaspoon ginger, and remaining 1 teaspoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (Swiss chard can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.) Sprinkle with peanuts and scallions before serving.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Hearty Greens
No longer just a farmers’ market specialty item, hearty greens are now widely available in grocery stores across the country. There are many types of hearty greens, but the ones we use most often are Swiss chard, collard greens, kale, and mustard greens. Here is some basic information on each.
SWISS CHARD Swiss chard has dark, ruffled leaves and a tough stem that can be crimson red, orange, yellow, or white. The leaves and stems need to be cooked separately, as the stems take much longer to soften. Look for bunches with bright-stemmed leaves that are firm and undamaged.
COLLARD GREENS Collard greens have dark green, very wide leaves and a thick stem. Look for bunches with trimmed stems and no sign of yellowing or wilting. Unless you plan to slice the leaves thinly, it is best to braise collard greens until tender. Be sure to strip the leaves from the stems, which are tough and woody.
KALE Kale comes in many varieties: curly green kale, red kale, more delicate Tuscan kale, and baby kale. Its hearty leaves have a surprisingly sweet undertone. Kale is easy to find both in bunches and in prewashed bags. Tender baby kale can be eaten raw in salads without any special treatment, but mature kale is tougher. To eat it raw, cut it into pieces, then vigorously knead it for about 5 minutes.
MUSTARD GREENS There are many varieties of mustard greens, but the most common one has crisp, bright green leaves and thin stems. These greens have a medium-hot flavor with a fairly strong bite, which makes them especially well suited to spicy Asian noodle dishes.
SERVES 4 TO 6 VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The unique onion-like sweetness of leeks makes them a delicious accompaniment to a fish or poultry entrée, especially when braised. The key to this dish was cooking the leeks to the ideal doneness so they’d be nicely tender with a creamy texture and great flavor. Utilizing the slow cooker’s relatively low heat and slow cooking time helped to coax out their delicate flavor. First, we jump-started the leeks in the microwave for a few minutes, along with garlic and thyme, to build even more complex flavor. Prior to cooking in the slow cooker, we added a generous amount of cream to ensure a rich, velvety texture while a splash of wine added acidity. Pecorino stirred in at the end of cooking enriched the dish further and provided an even creamier texture. Because heavy cream, unlike milk or half-and-half, can be simmered without curdling, it is essential here.
1. Microwave leeks, oil, garlic, thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl, stirring occasionally, until leeks are softened, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer to slow cooker. Stir in cream and wine, cover, and cook until leeks are tender but not mushy, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Stir Pecorino into leek mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste. Let sit for 5 minutes until slightly thickened. Serve. (Leeks can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with hot water as needed before serving.)
PREPARING LEEKS
1. Trim and discard root and dark green leaves, then cut trimmed leek in half lengthwise.
2. Slice leek crosswise as directed. Wash cut leeks thoroughly to remove dirt and sand.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS MASHED POTATOES
SERVES 10 TO 12 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
For evenly cooked potatoes in the slow cooker, we used a small amount of water and a parchment shield to create a moist, steamy environment. Thinly sliced potatoes cooked more evenly than chunks, and boiling the water first jump-started the cooking process. We brushed the top layer of potatoes with melted butter to help prevent discoloration, and mashed in the rest of the butter for additional flavor about 4 hours later, when the potatoes were tender. (The top layer of potatoes may discolor slightly, but this won’t be noticeable upon mashing.) To simplify things further, we did away with the extra step of draining the potatoes in favor of just mashing them in the cooking liquid. Along with the added butter (or olive oil), the cooking liquid easily created a nice smooth texture when incorporated. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield. The potatoes can be held on the warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust the consistency with extra hot water as needed before serving.
1 CLASSIC MASHED POTATOES
1. Combine potatoes, boiling water, and 2 teaspoons salt in slow cooker. Brush top layer of potatoes with 3 tablespoons melted butter. Press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper firmly onto potatoes, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Mash potatoes with potato masher until smooth. Stir in sour cream, chives, and remaining 9 tablespoons melted butter until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
2 LOADED MASHED POTATOES
1. Combine potatoes, boiling water, garlic, and 2 teaspoons salt in slow cooker. Brush top layer of potatoes with 3 tablespoons melted butter. Press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper firmly onto potatoes, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Line plate with double layer of coffee filters. Spread bacon in even layer on filters and microwave until crisp, about 5 minutes.
3. Discard parchment. Mash potatoes with potato masher until smooth. Stir in bacon, cheddar, sour cream, scallions, and remaining 9 tablespoons melted butter until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
3 GARLIC AND PARMESAN MASHED POTATOES
1. Combine potatoes, boiling water, garlic, and 2 teaspoons salt in slow cooker. Brush top layer of potatoes with 3 tablespoons melted butter. Press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper firmly onto potatoes, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Mash potatoes with potato masher until smooth. Stir in Parmesan and remaining 9 tablespoons melted butter until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
4 MASHED POTATOES AND ROOT VEGETABLES
1. Combine potatoes, parsnips, celery root, boiling water, and 2 teaspoons salt in slow cooker. Brush top layer of vegetables with 3 tablespoons melted butter. Press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper firmly onto vegetables, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until vegetables are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Mash vegetables with potato masher until smooth. Stir in sour cream, chives, and remaining 9 tablespoons melted butter until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
5 OLIVE OIL–ROSEMARY MASHED POTATOES
1. Combine potatoes, boiling water, and 2 teaspoons salt in slow cooker. Brush top layer of potatoes with 2 tablespoons oil. Press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper firmly onto potatoes, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Mash potatoes with potato masher until smooth. Stir in rosemary, lemon zest and juice, and remaining ½ cup oil until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
We love using the slow cooker to make no-fuss mashed sweet potatoes with a perfect texture.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Smooth and velvety, and with a buttery finish, these slow-cooker mashed sweet potatoes will keep you coming back for more. Pressing a piece of parchment on top of the potatoes resulted in even cooking, without any dry edges. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount. This recipe can be easily doubled in a 7-quart slow cooker; you will need to increase the cooking time range by 1 hour.
1. Combine potatoes, boiling water, sugar, and ¾ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper firmly onto potatoes, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Mash potatoes with potato masher until smooth. Stir in warm half-and-half and melted butter, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Sweet potatoes can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with extra hot water as needed before serving.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Sweet Potato or Yam?
You often hear “yam” and “sweet potato” used interchangeably, but they actually belong to completely different botanical families. Yams, generally sold in Latin and Asian markets, are often sold in chunks (they can grow to be several feet long) and can be found in dozens of varieties, with flesh from white to light yellow to pink, and skin ranging from off-white to brown. They all have very starchy flesh. Sweet potatoes are also found in several varieties and can have firm or soft flesh, but it’s the soft varieties that have in the past been mislabeled as “yams,” and the confusion continues to this day. In an attempt to remedy this, the U.S. Department of Agriculture now requires labels with the term “yam” to be accompanied by the term “sweet potato” when appropriate. We typically buy the conventional sweet potato, a longish knobby tuber with dark orange-brown skin and vivid flesh that cooks up moist and sweet. The buttery, sweet Beauregard is our favorite variety.
Buttermilk Smashed Red Potatoes
For just the right ratio of skins to flesh in these smashed potatoes we use small red potatoes and cut them in half.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Bold flavors and a rustic, chunky texture make smashed potatoes a satisfying side dish that pairs well with a range of entrées. Low-starch, high-moisture red potatoes were the best choice, as their compact structure held up well under pressure from mashing, and their red skins provided nice contrasting color. For the best chunky texture, we cooked the potatoes whole with olive oil, garlic, and thyme, then smashed them with a potato masher. A combination of buttermilk and sour cream gave our potatoes a unified creamy consistency. Look for small red potatoes measuring 1 to 2 inches in diameter. This recipe can easily be doubled in a 7-quart slow cooker; you will need to increase the cooking time range by 1 hour.
1. Combine potatoes, oil, garlic, thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in slow cooker. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Add buttermilk and sour cream to potatoes and, using potato masher, mash until combined and chunks of potatoes remain. Fold in chives and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Potatoes can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with hot water as needed before serving.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
All About Potatoes
Since potatoes have varying textures (determined by starch level), you can’t just reach for any potato and expect great results. Potatoes fall into three main categories—baking, boiling, or all-purpose—depending on texture.
BAKING POTATOES These dry, floury potatoes contain more total starch (20 to 22 percent) than that in other categories, giving these varieties a dry, mealy texture. These potatoes are the best choice when baking and frying. In our opinion, they are also the best potatoes for mashing because they can drink up butter and cream. They work well when you want to thicken a stew or soup, but not when you want distinct chunks of potatoes. Common varieties: russet, Russet Burbank, and Idaho.
ALL-PURPOSE POTATOES These potatoes contain less total starch (18 to 20 percent) than that in dry, floury potatoes but more than the total starch in firm boiling potatoes. Although they are considered “in-between” potatoes, in comparison to boiling potatoes their texture is more mealy, putting them closer to dry, floury potatoes. All-purpose potatoes can be mashed or baked but won’t be as fluffy as dry, floury potatoes. They can be used in salads and soups but won’t be quite as firm as boiling potatoes. Common varieties: Yukon Gold, Yellow Finn, Purple Peruvian, Kennebec, and Katahdin.
BOILING POTATOES These potatoes contain a relatively low amount of total starch (16 to 18 percent), which means they have a firm, smooth, waxy texture. Often they are called “new” potatoes because they are less-mature potatoes harvested in late spring and summer. They are less starchy than “old” potatoes because they haven’t had time to convert their sugar to starch. They also have thinner skins. Firm, waxy potatoes are perfect when you want the potatoes to hold their shape, as with potato salad. They are also a good choice when roasting or boiling. Common varieties: Red Bliss, French Fingerling, Red Creamer, and White Rose.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Moving small red potatoes to the slow cooker gave us another simple side that goes well with any number of entrées. Since our spuds were small, they cooked through evenly on their own—no need to wrap them in foil. We simply tossed them with extra-virgin olive oil and minced garlic for richness and flavor. Minced fresh rosemary added at the end of cooking infused our supertender, ultracreamy spuds with woodsy notes. Look for small red potatoes measuring 1 to 2 inches in diameter. This recipe can easily be doubled in a 7-quart slow cooker; you will need to increase the cooking time range by 1 hour.
1. Combine potatoes, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in slow cooker. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Stir in rosemary and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Potatoes can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
Lemon-Herb Fingerling Potatoes
There is almost no prep work required to turn out these elegant fingerling potatoes using the slow cooker.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Widely available at farm stands and now at many grocery stores too, fingerling potatoes are a nice alternative to standard white or red potatoes. They are creamy and dense and feel somehow special because of their small, narrow shape. So for a supereasy and attractive side dish, we turned to fingerlings, which required no prep work and turned perfectly tender in the slow cooker. Although they are traditionally roasted because boiling them dilutes their flavor and turns them mushy, we found that we could add them to the slow cooker without any liquid whatsoever, just some olive oil, garlic, and scallions for flavor, and they retained their delicate sweetness without a hint of mushiness. Unlike some other slow-cooker potato dishes, they cooked through properly without covering them first with a sheet of parchment paper. Look for fingerling potatoes measuring approximately 3 inches long and 1 inch in diameter. This recipe can easily be doubled in a 7-quart slow cooker; you will need to increase the cooking time range by 1 hour.
1. Combine potatoes, 1 tablespoon oil, scallion whites, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in slow cooker. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Stir in parsley, lemon zest and juice, scallion greens, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Potatoes can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 6 TO 7 HOURS ON LOW OR 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Forget about preheating the oven to achieve perfectly cooked baked potatoes with a creamy interior—we moved this dish to the slow cooker, leaving the oven available for other things (like the main course). Wrapping the potatoes in foil and including a little water in the slow cooker helped them cook through more evenly. Spritzing the potatoes with vegetable oil spray ensured that our seasonings adhered (salt and pepper did the trick). Serve with your favorite baked potato toppings. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
Spray potatoes with oil spray and season with salt and pepper. Wrap potatoes individually in aluminum foil and place in slow cooker. Add ½ cup water, cover, and cook until potatoes are tender, 6 to 7 hours on low or 4 to 5 hours on high. Transfer potatoes to serving dish and carefully remove foil (watch for steam). Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying and Storing Potatoes
When buying potatoes, look for firm specimens that are free of green spots, sprouts, cracks, and other blemishes. We generally prefer to buy loose potatoes, so that we can see what we are getting. Stay away from potatoes in plastic bags, which can cause potatoes to sprout and rot.
Keep potatoes in a cool, dark, dry place and away from onions, which give off gases that will hasten sprouting. Most varieties should keep for several months. The exception is new potatoes—because of their thinner skins, they will keep no more than one month. To further extend potatoes’ shelf life, we tried storing them in a cool, dark place with an apple—a common old wives’ tale that we wanted to put to the test. To our surprise, the apple did indeed boost the storage time; these potatoes lasted almost two weeks longer than those stored without the fruit. The ethylene gas emitted by the apple suppresses the elongation of the potatoes’ cells, which is what causes the sprouts to form.
For scalloped potatoes, we use the microwave to parcook both the potatoes and the cheesy, creamy sauce.
SERVES 6 TO 8 VEG
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Tender potatoes and a smooth, creamy sauce with lots of cheese flavor are the hallmarks of well-made scalloped potatoes. They are hard enough to make perfectly in an oven, so could we find a way to make a slow-cooker version that rivaled the best an oven could offer? To start, cream and broth—plus garlic and fresh thyme—guaranteed that the sauce was rich and flavorful. To thicken it, we tried adding flour, but this led to a pasty sauce that separated. Thickening the sauce with cornstarch worked much better, ensuring our sauce stayed stable over the long cooking time; melting shredded sharp cheddar and creamy Monterey Jack into the sauce ensured a smooth texture and robust flavor. To avoid the stovetop altogether, we heated the sauce base in the microwave for a few minutes before adding the cheese. We selected russet potatoes for their fluffy texture, but they cooked unevenly: The bottom layer was tender after the cooking time, while the top remained crunchy. Giving the potatoes a head start in the microwave solved this problem, and a little cream prevented them from sticking together. Lining the side of the slow cooker with foil helped protect our casserole from burning. Extra-sharp cheddar, which becomes grainy during slow cooking, should not be substituted for the sharp cheddar. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Don’t soak the potatoes in water before using or the dish will be watery. Click here for more information on making a foil collar and here for more information on creating a parchment shield.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Microwave potatoes with 2 tablespoons cream in large covered bowl, stirring occasionally, until nearly tender, 8 to 10 minutes; let cool slightly.
2. Whisk remaining cream, broth, cornstarch, garlic, thyme, salt, and pepper together in medium bowl. Microwave, whisking occasionally, until mixture is thickened, about 5 minutes. Slowly whisk in ½ cup cheddar and ½ cup Monterey Jack until melted.
3. Gently fold cheese mixture into potatoes. Transfer potato-cheese mixture to prepared slow cooker and press gently to compress layers. Grease 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper and press firmly onto potatoes, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
4. Discard parchment and foil collar. Sprinkle potatoes with remaining ¼ cup cheddar and remaining ¼ cup Monterey Jack. Cover and let sit until cheese is melted, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and serve. (Potatoes can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
Mixing in melted butter, warm cream, and brown sugar just before serving takes this squash puree to the next level.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With its silky-smooth texture and earthy, slightly sweet flavor, pureed butternut squash is one of our favorite side dishes. Since the flavor of butternut squash is quite delicate, our goal was to bump up its flavor so it would taste great even after hours in the slow cooker. At first we tried cooking the squash in water to cover but this washed away some of the squash’s subtle flavor, leaving us with a bland, watery puree. Since the squash exuded a lot of moisture during cooking we thought we could take down the amount of water dramatically. In the end it took only a bare minimum—½ cup—to properly braise the squash. Even this small amount of water, however, seemed to be diluting the squash flavor significantly. We considered alternative braising liquids and settled on apple cider, which accented the squash’s innate sweetness and added a brightness tasters liked. A small amount of heavy cream and some butter rounded out the flavors and added richness without overpowering the squash flavor. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield. This recipe can easily be doubled in a 7-quart slow cooker; you will need to increase the cooking time range by 1 hour.
1. Combine squash, cider, and ½ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper firmly onto squash, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until squash is tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Mash squash with potato masher until smooth. Stir in melted butter, cream, and sugar. Season with salt, pepper, and extra sugar to taste. Serve. (Squash can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with extra hot cider as needed before serving.)
Braised Butternut Squash with Pecans and Cranberries
Dressed up with an easy vinaigrette plus pecans and cranberries, braised squash takes center stage on the table.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Cooking this popular winter squash in a slow cooker makes for a wonderful everyday vegetable, but slow-cooked butternut squash is truly a great contribution to the holiday dinner table, freeing up valuable oven space. We found that a small amount of liquid in the bottom of the slow cooker, plus a couple of aromatics, was all it took to deeply flavor and perfectly steam butternut squash. Pecans and dried cranberries dressed up the squash, and a quick vinaigrette tied the elements of this vegetable side together. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Combine broth, garlic, thyme sprigs, and ¼ teaspoon salt in slow cooker. Nestle squash into slow cooker. Cover and cook until squash is tender, 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Using slotted spoon, transfer squash to serving dish, brushing away any garlic cloves or thyme sprigs that stick to squash. Whisk oil and lemon zest and juice together in bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle squash with dressing and sprinkle with pecans, cranberries, and parsley. Serve.
Maple-Orange Glazed Acorn Squash
Quartered acorn squashes cook perfectly in the slow cooker in a base of water, orange juice, and spices.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A quintessential fall vegetable, acorn squash takes forever to roast and often emerges dry and a bit grainy. In the slow cooker, however, it turns tender easily without overcooking or drying out. And as an added bonus, you can perfume it with warm spices as it cooks. Here we created a cooking base made up of water, orange juice, cloves, and cinnamon and placed the squash cut side down in this flavorful mixture. And since we think a glaze greatly enhances acorn squash, we made a quick one in the microwave by combining maple syrup with coriander, cayenne pepper, and orange zest; toasted hazelnuts provided great crunch and flavor. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Combine 1 cup water, orange juice, cloves, and cinnamon stick in slow cooker. Season squashes with salt and pepper and shingle cut side down in slow cooker. Cover and cook until squashes are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Using tongs, transfer squashes to serving dish, brushing away any cloves that stick to squashes. Microwave maple syrup, coriander, cayenne, and orange zest in bowl until heated through, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle glaze over squashes and sprinkle with hazelnuts and parsley. Serve.
SKINNING HAZELNUTS
Transfer hot toasted hazelnuts to center of dish towel. Fold towel around hazelnuts to seal them inside; rub them together in towel to scrape off as much brown skin as possible. Some small patches of skin may remain.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Toasting Nuts and Seeds
Toasting nuts and seeds maximizes their flavor, so whether you are adding them to a salad or tossing them into a pasta dish or baked good, it pays to spend a few minutes toasting them.
To toast a small amount (less than 1 cup) of nuts or seeds, put them in a dry skillet over medium heat. Shake the skillet occasionally to prevent scorching, and toast until they are lightly browned and fragrant, 3 to 8 minutes. Watch the nuts closely because they can go from golden to burnt very quickly. To toast a large quantity of nuts, spread the nuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and toast in a 350-degree oven. To promote even toasting, shake the baking sheet every few minutes, and toast until the nuts are lightly browned and fragrant, 5 to 10 minutes.
Slow-Cooked Tomatoes with Olive Oil
Fragrant, garlic-infused olive oil is a great added bonus when making these sweet and easy slow-cooked tomatoes.
SERVES 4 TO 6 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A perfectly ripe, freshly picked August tomato needs no more preparation than slicing and sprinkling with salt. But if you are lucky enough to have an overabundance of them, or if you’re just looking for a way to improve average supermarket tomatoes, slow roasting is the way to go. In the best versions, the tomato’s juices are concentrated by the slow, steady heat of the oven and become one with the olive oil in which it is roasted. We were after a foolproof method for “slow roasting” tomatoes in the slow cooker, one that would deliver a sweet, intense tomato flavor and a melt-in-your-mouth texture. To start, we cored the tomatoes, then halved them crosswise (tasters felt this cut made for a more visually pleasing presentation). We gently tossed them with just enough extra-virgin olive oil to infuse them with bright, fruity flavor as they released their juices into the slow cooker, creating a flavorful cooking liquid. The addition of smashed garlic cloves, which mellowed and softened during the long cooking time, lent a rich, nutty flavor to the oil and paired well with the fresh thyme that we also added. Aside from a little salt and pepper, no other seasoning was needed for this uncomplicated dish. We recommend serving these tomatoes alongside roasted meat or fish with plenty of crusty bread for dipping into the extra cooking liquid. You can also use the seriously flavorful tomato oil to make a salad dressing.
1. Combine tomatoes, oil, garlic, thyme, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in slow cooker. Cover and cook until tomatoes are tender and slightly shriveled around edges, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Let tomatoes cool in oil for at least 15 minutes or up to 4 hours. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Fresh Tomatoes
Buying tomatoes at the height of summer won’t guarantee juicy, flavorful fruit, but keeping these guidelines in mind will help ensure a flavorful tomato: The shorter the distance a tomato has to travel, the riper it can be when it’s picked. And commercial tomatoes are engineered to be sturdier, with thicker walls and less of the flavorful jelly and seeds. When selecting tomatoes, oddly shaped tomatoes are fine, and even cracked skin is OK. Avoid tomatoes that are overly soft or leaking juice. Choose tomatoes that smell fruity and feel heavy. And consider trying heirloom tomatoes; grown from naturally pollinated plants and seeds, they are some of the best local tomatoes you can find. If supermarket tomatoes are your only option, look for tomatoes sold on the vine. Although this does not mean that these tomatoes were fully ripened on the vine, they are better than regular supermarket tomatoes.
CHAPTER 13
Individual Ricotta, Spinach, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■
Individual Ricotta, Broccoli, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■
Leek, Bacon, and Goat Cheese Strata
Red Flannel Hash with Poached Eggs ■
Corned Beef Hash with Poached Eggs
Irish Oatmeal ■ ■
Cheesy Grits ■ ■
■ EASY PREP
■ VEGETARIAN
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
Individual Ricotta, Spinach, and Egg Casseroles
A hefty dose of whole-milk ricotta cheese plus shredded fontina gives these egg casseroles tons of richness.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Perfect for a late breakfast or light supper, these individual egg casseroles are ready for the slow cooker in mere minutes with little effort. Whole-milk ricotta and shredded fontina ensured a dish that was plenty rich, and frozen spinach balanced the richness and needed no chopping—we simply thawed it and squeezed out the excess moisture so it wouldn’t water down our eggs. Assembly was easy: We started by microwaving our aromatics (garlic and onion), then stirred in the spinach, ricotta, fontina, and eggs and portioned the mixture into four ramekins. Thin slices of tomato, placed on top, provided bright flavor and color, and a water bath guaranteed that our eggs cooked through gently and evenly. You will need an oval slow cooker and four 6-ounce round ramekins for this recipe.
1. Grease four 6-ounce ramekins. Microwave onion, oil, and garlic in large bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in ricotta, spinach, fontina, eggs, salt, and pepper until well combined. Divide mixture evenly among prepared ramekins and shingle tomatoes over top.
2. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch boiling water (about 2 cups water) and set ramekins in slow cooker. Cover and cook until casseroles are set, 2 to 3 hours on low. Using tongs and sturdy spatula, remove ramekins from slow cooker and let cool for 15 minutes before serving.
SQUEEZING SPINACH DRY
To rid thawed spinach of excess water before adding it to recipes, simply wrap it in cheesecloth and squeeze it firmly.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For another take on easy individual egg casseroles, we decided to pair cheddar cheese and broccoli with the eggs. Frozen broccoli kept prep to a minimum, and chopped onion, minced garlic, and fresh thyme ensured our custard was anything but bland. Assembly was easy: We microwaved our aromatics (garlic and onion), then stirred in the broccoli, ricotta, cheddar, and eggs before portioning the mixture into four ramekins. Adding water to the slow cooker turned the slow cooker into an even-cooking water bath. This guaranteed that our casseroles cooked through gently and evenly every time. You will need an oval slow cooker and four 6-ounce round ramekins for this recipe.
1. Grease four 6-ounce ramekins. Microwave onion, oil, garlic, and thyme in large bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in broccoli, ricotta, cheddar, eggs, salt, and pepper until well combined. Divide mixture evenly among prepared ramekins.
2. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch boiling water (about 2 cups water) and set ramekins in slow cooker. Cover and cook until casseroles are set, 2 to 3 hours on low. Using tongs and sturdy spatula, remove ramekins from slow cooker and let cool for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and serve.
SHREDDING SEMISOFT CHEESE
To prevent the grater from becoming clogged when shredding mozzarella and other semisoft cheeses, use vegetable oil spray to lightly coat the holes, then shred away.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Eggs
Here’s what we’ve learned in the test kitchen about buying eggs.
COLOR The shell’s hue depends on the breed of the chicken. The run-of-the-mill leghorn chicken produces the typical white egg. Brown-feathered birds, such as Rhode Island Reds, produce ecru- to coffee-colored eggs. Despite marketing hype extolling the virtues of nonwhite eggs, our tests proved that shell color has no effect on flavor.
FARM-FRESH AND ORGANIC In our taste tests, farm-fresh eggs were standouts. The large yolks were bright orange and sat very high above the comparatively small whites, and the flavor of these eggs was exceptionally rich and complex. The organic eggs followed in second place, with eggs from hens raised on a vegetarian diet in third, and the standard supermarket eggs last. Differences were easily detected in egg-based dishes such as omelets or frittatas, but not in cakes or cookies.
EGGS AND OMEGA-3S Several companies are marketing eggs with a high level of omega-3 fatty acids, the healthful unsaturated fats also found in some fish. In our taste test, we found that more omega-3s translated into a richer egg flavor and a deeper yolk color. Why? Commercially raised chickens usually peck on corn and soy, while chickens on a diet enriched in omega-3 have supplements of greens, flaxseeds, and algae, which also add flavor, complexity, and color to their eggs. Read labels carefully and look for brands that guarantee at least 200 milligrams omega-3s per egg.
HOW OLD ARE MY EGGS? Egg cartons are marked with both a sell-by date and a pack date. The pack date is the day the eggs were graded and packed, which is generally within a week of when they were laid but may be as much as 30 days later. The sell-by date is within 30 days of the pack date, which is the legal limit set by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). In short, a carton of eggs may be up to two months old by the end of the sell-by date. Even so, according to the USDA, eggs are still fit for consumption for an additional three to five weeks past the sell-by date.
MAKE IT 5 WAYS STRATA
SERVES 8 TO 10
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
We wanted a savory and rich-tasting strata with a balanced, well-seasoned filling, a foolproof technique, and lots of ways to vary the basic recipe to keep things interesting. The key to producing the perfect strata with great texture was using stale bread pieces. We also found that the trick to a surefire strata was using the slow cooker’s gentle low heat setting, which ensured a silky-smooth custard. To prevent uneven cooking and to make the strata easy to remove and serve, we placed a foil collar and sling in the slow cooker before building the strata. Click here for information on making a foil collar and here for information on making a foil sling. If you don’t have stale bread in hand, you can dry out fresh bread pieces by baking them on a rimmed baking sheet in a 225-degree oven for about 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. You will need an oval slow cooker for these recipes. These stratas are great served right out of the slow cooker, or they can be transferred to a serving dish for a more impressive presentation.
1 CLASSIC STRATA WITH SAUSAGE
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar, then press 2 large sheets of foil into slow cooker perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges. Lightly coat prepared slow cooker with vegetable oil spray.
2. Microwave sausage, onion, oil, garlic, and thyme in bowl, stirring and breaking up meat with wooden spoon occasionally, until sausage is no longer pink, 6 to 8 minutes.
3. Spread half of stale bread into prepared slow cooker, then sprinkle with half of sausage mixture and ½ cup cheddar. Repeat layering with remaining stale bread, remaining sausage mixture, and remaining 1 cup cheddar. Whisk half-and-half, eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in bowl, then pour mixture evenly over bread. Press gently on bread to submerge. Cover and cook until center of strata is set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
4. Turn off slow cooker and let strata cool, covered, for 20 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and serve.
2 MUSHROOM AND SPINACH STRATA
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar, then press 2 large sheets of foil into slow cooker perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges. Lightly coat prepared slow cooker with vegetable oil spray.
2. Microwave mushrooms, onion, oil, garlic, and thyme in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in spinach.
3. Spread half of stale bread into prepared slow cooker, then sprinkle with half of mushroom mixture and ½ cup Gruyère. Repeat layering with remaining stale bread, remaining mushroom mixture, and remaining 1 cup Gruyère. Whisk half-and-half, eggs, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in bowl, then pour mixture evenly over bread. Press gently on bread to submerge. Cover and cook until center of strata is set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
4. Turn off slow cooker and let strata cool, covered, for 20 minutes. Serve.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar, then press 2 large sheets of foil into slow cooker perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges. Lightly coat prepared slow cooker with vegetable oil spray.
2. Microwave bell peppers, onion, oil, garlic, and thyme in bowl, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in ham.
3. Spread half of stale bread into prepared slow cooker, then sprinkle with half of ham mixture and ½ cup Monterey Jack. Repeat layering with remaining stale bread, remaining ham mixture, and remaining 1 cup Monterey Jack. Whisk half-and-half, eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in bowl, then pour mixture evenly over bread. Press gently on bread to submerge. Cover and cook until center of strata is set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
4. Turn off slow cooker and let strata cool, covered, for 20 minutes. Serve.
4 SMOKY SOUTHWESTERN STRATA
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar, then press 2 large sheets of foil into slow cooker perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges. Lightly coat prepared slow cooker with vegetable oil spray.
2. Spread half of stale bread into prepared slow cooker, then sprinkle with half of tomatoes, ½ cup pepper Jack, and half of scallions. Repeat layering with remaining stale bread, remaining tomatoes, remaining 1 cup Pepper Jack, and remaining scallions. Whisk half-and-half, eggs, chili powder, cumin, 1½ teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in bowl, then pour mixture evenly over bread. Press gently on bread to submerge. Cover and cook until center of strata is set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
3. Turn off slow cooker and let strata cool, covered, for 20 minutes. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve.
5 LEEK, BACON, AND GOAT CHEESE STRATA
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar, then press 2 large sheets of foil into slow cooker perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges. Lightly coat prepared slow cooker with vegetable oil spray.
2. Microwave leeks, bacon, garlic, and thyme in bowl, stirring occasionally, until leeks are softened, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Spread half of stale bread into prepared slow cooker, then sprinkle with half of leek mixture and ¾ cup goat cheese. Repeat layering with remaining stale bread, remaining leek mixture, and remaining ¾ cup goat cheese. Whisk half-and-half, eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together in bowl, then pour mixture evenly over bread. Press gently on bread to submerge. Cover and cook until center of strata is set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
4. Turn off slow cooker and let strata cool, covered, for 20 minutes. Sprinkle with chives and serve.
It’s easy to make huevos rancheros in a slow cooker; you’re simply building a fragrant sauce, then poaching eggs.
SERVES 6 VEG
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Huevos rancheros are a welcome addition to any brunch, but preparing the dish’s many components often requires a lot of effort. Our goal was to create a flavorful version of this hearty tomato sauce and egg dish by letting the slow cooker do the work for us. To evoke the charred deep flavors in traditional huevos rancheros, first we bloomed a healthy dose of chili powder that we microwaved along with onions, oil, and garlic. We then stirred in canned fire-roasted tomatoes, brown sugar, lime juice, and green chiles for a tangy punch of flavor. Cracking eggs into wells we had created in the cooked sauce allowed us to cook all six servings at once. The final touch to this zesty breakfast was some spicy pepper Jack cheese. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil collar. Serve with warm tortillas and diced avocado.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray.
2. Microwave onion, oil, chili powder, garlic, and ½ teaspoon salt in bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 5 minutes; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, green chiles, sugar, and lime juice. Cover and cook until tomato mixture is deeply flavored, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
3. Discard foil collar. Smooth tomato mixture into even layer and sprinkle evenly with pepper Jack. Using back of spoon, make 6 indentations (about 2½ inches wide) into tomato mixture. Crack 1 egg into each indentation and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook on high until egg whites are just beginning to set but still have some movement when slow cooker is gently shaken, 20 to 30 minutes.
4. Turn off slow cooker and let eggs sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with cilantro and scallions. Serve immediately.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Fire-Roasted Tomatoes
Fresh tomatoes charred over an open fire possess a sweet, smoky depth that plain tomatoes can’t match. We wondered if canned versions could meet that ideal, so we gathered three nationally available diced fire-roasted tomato products to find out. Two of the brands had wimpy or artificial smoke flavor. DeLallo Fire-Roasted Diced Tomatoes tasted aggressively smoky when sampled plain, but in salsa and chili that intensity mellowed, providing a smoky background flavor that tasters appreciated. Tasters also liked the sweeter, fruitier notes of the winning tomatoes, as well as the added flavorings and spices, which bolstered savory flavor.
Red Flannel Hash with Poached Eggs
This vegetarian take on red flannel hash uses a combination of beets and russet potatoes, with a little cream for richness.
SERVES 6 VEG
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a healthier but still hearty hash, we took out the meat altogether and increased the amount of vegetables. Red beets cooked perfectly along with potatoes and provided a ruby hue, which is where this dish gets its name. To give our vegetables that real hash texture, we stirred just a quarter-cup of cream into a portion of the cooked vegetables, mashed them, and then stirred the mashed vegetables back into the rest of the hash. Dimpling the finished hash with the back of a spoon provided the perfect nests to hold eggs as they slowly cooked to perfection. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. To avoid staining your hands, hold beets in layers of paper towels while peeling them with a vegetable peeler. Click here for more information on making a foil collar.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onion, garlic, oil, thyme, paprika, and 1 teaspoon salt in large bowl, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Add potatoes and beets and toss to combine; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Pour broth over vegetables, cover, and cook until vegetables are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Discard foil collar. Transfer 2 cups vegetables to medium bowl. Add cream and mash with potato masher until smooth. Fold mashed vegetable mixture into remaining vegetables in slow cooker, then smooth into even layer.
3. Using back of spoon, make 6 indentations (about 2½ inches wide) into hash. Crack 1 egg into each indentation and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook on high until egg whites are just beginning to set but still have some movement when slow cooker is gently shaken, 20 to 30 minutes.
4. Turn off slow cooker and let eggs sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with scallions and serve with hot sauce.
PREPPING FRESH THYME
For thin-stemmed thyme, chop stems along with leaves. If stems are thick, hold sprig upright and run your thumb and forefinger along stem to release leaves.
Corned Beef Hash with Poached Eggs
With just a few humble pantry ingredients, plus deli corned beef, you can make a great hash in your slow cooker.
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 5 TO 6 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This slow-cooker version of corned beef hash captures what everyone loves about this diner classic, but with much less fuss. First we microwaved the aromatics before tossing them with the chunks of potatoes. Once everything was in the slow cooker, including deli counter corned beef, we let it cook until the potatoes were tender. We mashed a portion of the cooked potato mixture with a little cream to give our hash a cohesive texture. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil collar.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Microwave onions, garlic, oil, thyme, paprika, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in large bowl, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Add potatoes and corned beef and toss to combine; transfer to prepared slow cooker. Pour broth over potato mixture, cover, and cook until potatoes are tender, 5 to 6 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.
2. Discard foil collar. Transfer 2 cups potato mixture to medium bowl. Add cream and mash with potato masher until smooth. Fold mashed mixture into remaining potato mixture in slow cooker, then smooth into even layer.
3. Using back of spoon, make 6 indentations (about 2½ inches wide) into hash. Crack 1 egg into each indentation and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook on high until egg whites are just beginning to set but still have some movement when slow cooker is gently shaken, 20 to 30 minutes.
4. Turn off slow cooker and let eggs sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with scallions and serve with hot sauce.
ADDING EGGS TO HASH
1. Using back of large spoon, make 6 indentations in surface of vegetable mixture, about 2½ inches wide and 1½ inches deep.
2. Carefully crack egg into each hole and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook on high for about 20 minutes.
A combo of rye flour, whole-wheat flour, and cornmeal gives our slow-cooker Boston brown bread a hearty flavor.
MAKES 4 SMALL LOAVES; SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A New England breakfast staple, brown bread is a cross between a cake and a quick bread in both texture and taste. It has a unique flavor that is rich in molasses, raisins, and complex whole grains. While most brown bread recipes are traditionally steamed in tin cans in a water bath on the stovetop, we moved the process to the slow cooker for a fuss-free version. For the batter, we used easy-to-find whole-wheat flour, rye flour, and finely ground cornmeal in equal amounts to give our bread balanced whole-grain flavor. Molasses, the traditional sweetener in brown bread, added a hint of bitterness. Baking soda and baking powder reacted with the acid in the batter to lighten the bread, and melted butter gave some richness to the lean loaves. To prevent the metal cans from staining the bottom of the slow cooker insert, we first lined the insert with parchment. We prefer Quaker white cornmeal in this recipe, though other types will work; do not use coarse grits. Any style of molasses will work except blackstrap. You will need an oval slow cooker and four empty 15-ounce cans for this recipe. Use cans that are labeled BPA-free. Brown bread is great as is or toasted and buttered.
1. Fold four 12 by 8-inch pieces of aluminum foil in half twice to yield rectangles that measure 6 by 4 inches, and grease 1 side with vegetable oil spray. Coat inside of 4 clean 15-ounce cans with oil spray.
2. Whisk rye flour, whole-wheat flour, cornmeal, baking soda, baking powder, and salt together in large bowl. Whisk buttermilk, molasses, and melted butter together in second bowl. Stir raisins into buttermilk mixture. Add buttermilk mixture to flour mixture and stir until combined and no dry flour remains. Divide batter evenly among prepared cans and smooth top with back of greased spoon. Wrap tops of cans tightly with prepared foil, greased side facing batter.
3. Line bottom of slow cooker with parchment paper. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch boiling water (about 2 cups water) and set cans in slow cooker. Cover and cook until skewer inserted in center of loaves comes out clean, 3 to 4 hours on high.
4. Using tongs and sturdy spatula, transfer cans to wire rack and let cool, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Invert cans and slide loaves onto rack and let cool completely, about 1 hour. Slice and serve. (Bread can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 3 days.)
After rolling the proofed balls of dough in melted butter and sugar, you simply arrange them in the slow cooker to cook.
SERVES 6 TO 8 VEG
COOKING TIME 2 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We wanted a slow-cooker recipe for monkey bread that didn’t compromise on its sticky, sweet appeal. To expedite the rising and proofing in this recipe we used a generous amount of instant yeast and added sugar to the dough, which jump-started the yeast. Before assembling the bread, we rolled the balls of dough in melted butter and sugar to give them a thick, caramel-like coating. After shaping, dipping, and assembling the monkey bread directly into the foil-lined slow cooker, we cooked the bread on high for 3 to 4 hours. We didn’t need to wait for a second proofing of the dough after it was shaped; the gentle heat of the slow cooker properly proofed the dough as it came up to temperature, allowing us to walk away and enjoy the sweet smell of cinnamon. To prevent uneven cooking and possible overbrowning, and to make the monkey bread easy to remove and serve, we placed both a foil collar and double-layered sling in the slow cooker. When the bread was finished cooking, we used the foil sling to remove it to cool slightly before inverting, showing off the gooey, caramelized coating of brown sugar, butter, and cinnamon. A final drizzle of glaze was all this decadent breakfast treat needed before serving. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for information on making a foil collar and here for information on making a foil sling.
1. FOR THE DOUGH Whisk flour, yeast, and salt together in bowl of stand mixer. Whisk milk, water, sugar, and melted butter in 4-cup liquid measuring cup until sugar has dissolved. Using dough hook on low speed, slowly add milk mixture to flour mixture and mix until cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes, scraping down bowl as needed. Increase speed to medium-low and knead until dough is smooth and elastic and clears sides of bowl but sticks to bottom, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and knead by hand to form smooth, round ball, about 30 seconds. Place dough, seam side down, in lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours. (Unrisen dough can be refrigerated for at least 8 hours or up to 16 hours; let sit at room temperature for 1 hour before shaping in step 4.)
3. FOR THE BROWN SUGAR COATING Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar, then press 2 double-layered large sheets of foil into slow cooker perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges. Lightly coat prepared slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine sugar and cinnamon in bowl. Place melted butter in second bowl.
4. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and press into rough 8-inch square. Using pizza cutter or chef’s knife, cut dough into 6 even strips. Cut each strip into 6 pieces (36 pieces total). Cover dough pieces loosely with greased plastic.
5. Working with a few pieces of dough at a time (keep remaining pieces covered), dip pieces in melted butter, then roll in sugar mixture to coat. Place coated pieces in prepared slow cooker, staggering seams where dough balls meet as you build layers. Once dough is layered, sprinkle remaining sugar mixture on top.
6. Cover and cook until dough is set and registers 190 degrees, 2 to 4 hours on high. (Top of monkey bread will be pale and slightly tacky to touch.) Using foil sling, transfer monkey bread to wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes.
7. FOR THE GLAZE Whisk sugar and milk in bowl until smooth. Invert monkey bread onto serving dish; discard foil. Drizzle glaze over bread, letting it run down sides. Serve warm.
ASSEMBLING MONKEY BREAD
Place coated pieces in prepared slow cooker, staggering seams where dough balls meet as you build layers.
Since making steel-cut oats takes time, it’s handy to make a big batch in the slow cooker and reheat portions as needed.
SERVES 8 VEG LIGHT
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW OR 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We love the chewy texture and fuller flavor of steel-cut oats (and also their health benefits). Although we set out to create an overnight version of these oats so they’d be ready the next morning, we found that the oats were mushy and blown-out after such a long cooking time. For perfectly cooked oats in the slow cooker, 3 to 5 hours of cooking time were key. Also, toasting the oats before putting them in the slow cooker brought out their nutty flavor. This oatmeal reheats well, so you can quickly serve it up again later in the week. Serve with your favorite toppings such as brown sugar, butter, maple syrup, cinnamon, dried fruit, and nuts.
1. Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add oats and toast, stirring constantly, until golden and fragrant, about 2 minutes; transfer to slow cooker.
2. Stir water and salt into slow cooker. Cover and cook until oats are softened and thickened, 4 to 5 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high. Stir oatmeal to recombine. Turn off slow cooker and let oatmeal sit for 10 minutes. Serve. (Oatmeal can be refrigerated for up to 4 days. Reheat oatmeal in microwave or in saucepan over medium-low heat; stir often and adjust consistency with hot water as needed.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Steel-Cut Oats
Steel-cut oats are made by slicing whole oat groats with steel blades into nubby grains. These grainy-textured oats take a little longer than rolled oats to cook, but their chewy texture and fuller oat flavor are worth the wait. Our favorite brand is Bob’s Red Mill Organic Steel Cut Oats, which tasters praised for its outstanding nutty oat flavor and “creamy, toothsome” texture.
These creamy slow-cooker grits are a lifesaver when you’re trying to orchestrate a brunch, since they free up your oven.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A staple of the Southern table, grits can be a substantial start to the day, or a good addition to the dinner plate. But often grits cook up bland and watery or too thick and gluey. The slow cooker proved to be the perfect vehicle for cooking up consistently creamy and flavorful grits without a need to monitor the pot. The low, gradual heat of the slow cooker gently cooked the grits, keeping them lump-free and creamy. In the search for the best recipe, we began by looking at the variety of grits available and found two forms: instant grits and old-fashioned. Instant grits were too gummy in texture and tasted overprocessed. We found that old-fashioned grits worked best in the slow cooker. The old-fashioned grits were velvety, but at the same time they retained a slightly coarse texture. We kept the recipe simple by whisking together water, milk, grits, and salt in the slow cooker and cooking until the grits were tender, without any need to stir. To create big flavor after cooking, we finished the dish by stirring in sharp cheddar for deep cheesy flavor, butter for richness, and scallions and a splash of hot sauce for a savory boost. The grits will retain a little bite once fully cooked.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Whisk water, milk, grits, and 1 teaspoon salt together in prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook until grits are tender, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Whisk cheddar, butter, scallions, and hot sauce into grits until combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Grits can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with hot water as needed before serving.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Sharp Cheddar Cheese
Traditionally, cheddar is made by a process called “cheddaring”: The curd (made by adding acid-producing cultures and clotting agents to unpasteurized whole milk) is cut into slabs, then stacked, cut, pressed, and stacked again. Along the way a large amount of liquid, called whey, is extracted. The remaining compacted curd is what gives farmhouse cheddars their hard and fine-grained characteristics. When it comes to flavor and sharpness, the longer a cheddar is aged, which can be anywhere from a couple of months to a couple of years, the firmer in texture and the more concentrated in flavor (and sharper) it gets. In a recent taste test, Cabot Vermont Sharp Cheddar came out on top. This cheese, which is aged for five to eight months, was praised for its “sharp,” “clean,” and “tangy” flavor.
Although you have to stir this granola every hour, it is otherwise a dump-and-go recipe with foolproof results.
MAKES ABOUT 9 CUPS EASY PREP VEG
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Store-bought granola is often chock-full of pale oats and dried-out nuts, and is underwhelming when it comes to dried fruit. We knew we could do better, and so we set out to create an easy-to-make, foolproof recipe for granola with big flavor and a crisp texture. The sweetened oat mixture burns easily when cooked in the oven, but the slow cooker was the perfect alternative. For a chewy, crisp, and pleasantly sweet granola, we started by whisking a mixture of maple syrup, honey, and brown sugar together. A small amount of salt, vanilla, and cinnamon boosted the flavor of the mixture. We then drizzled the flavorful mixture over the oats and almonds in the slow cooker to ensure even coating. During cooking, we made sure to stir the granola every hour so it browned evenly. As soon as it was done we turned it out of the slow cooker to cool. Raisins and coarsely chopped almonds added a welcome sweetness and crunch to the granola—and we didn’t skimp on the amounts. Do not use quick or instant oats here. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. We prefer to chop the almonds by hand for even texture and superior crunch.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine oats and almonds in prepared slow cooker. Whisk oil, maple syrup, honey, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, and salt together in bowl. Drizzle oil mixture over oat mixture and gently toss until evenly coated. Cover and cook, stirring every hour, until oat mixture is deep golden brown and fragrant, 4 to 5 hours on high.
2. Transfer oat mixture to rimmed baking sheet and spread into even layer. Let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Transfer cooled granola to large bowl, add raisins, and gently toss to combine. Serve. (Granola can be stored in airtight container for up to 2 weeks.)
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Buying Maple Syrup
There’s no cheap substitute for maple syrup. We confirmed this when we compared maple syrups with pancake syrups; the latter, corn syrup–based products that are one-fifth the price of maple syrup, tasted cloying and candy-like. This time, we decided to home in on pure maple syrup and gathered eight products, all grade A dark amber. Some were dark, while others were only faintly golden. Surprisingly, these color differences did not correlate to the syrups’ flavors. Most of the lighter-colored products tasted as robust as the darker ones, and we were hard-pressed to find distinct differences besides color. Due to blending, supermarket grade A dark amber syrups have a similar taste, so our advice is to buy the least expensive all-maple product you can find.
CHAPTER 14
Individual Lemon Pudding Cakes
Individual Chocolate Fudge Cakes
White Chocolate and Cherry Bread Pudding
Stuffed Apples with Dried Cherries and Hazelnuts
Warm Peach-Raspberry Compote ■
Warm Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote ■
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENT
■ EASY PREP
■ LIGHT
■ COOK ALL DAY
A 6-inch round cake pan fits perfectly into the slow cooker and is the perfect size for our slow-cooker brownies.
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS The low heat and moist environment of the slow cooker are good not just for preparing richly flavored stews and braises; we found we could also take advantage of this appliance to make easy, from-scratch brownies. And because the flavor compounds in chocolate are extremely volatile and cook off easily in a hot oven, the gentle heat of the slow cooker preserves more chocolate flavor and practically guarantees a fudgy texture. In fact, when we made our classic brownie recipe in a slow cooker they were too fudgy, so we cut back on the sugar and eggs. Simply pouring the batter into the slow cooker led to unevenly cooked brownies that were hard to remove. Instead, we “baked” our brownies in a small springform pan, which fit nicely in the slow cooker. A water bath ensured that they would cook through gently and evenly, and a foil rack elevated the pan so no water would seep in. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. A 6-inch round cake pan can be substituted for the springform pan. Click here for more information on making a foil rack.
1. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and place aluminum foil rack in bottom. Grease 6-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper.
2. Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt together in bowl. In large bowl, microwave chocolate and butter at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until melted, 1 to 2 minutes; let cool slightly. Whisk sugar, egg and yolk, and vanilla into cooled chocolate mixture until well combined. Stir in flour mixture until just incorporated.
3. Scrape batter into prepared pan, smooth top, and sprinkle with walnuts, if using. Set pan on prepared rack, cover, and cook until toothpick inserted into center comes out with few moist crumbs attached, 3 to 4 hours on high.
4. Let brownies cool completely in pan on wire rack, 1 to 2 hours. Run small knife around edge of brownies, then remove sides of pan. Remove brownies from pan bottom, discarding parchment, and transfer to cutting board. Cut into wedges and serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Pure Vanilla versus Imitation Vanilla
Pure vanilla extract is made by soaking vanilla beans in a solution of water and alcohol and then aging the mixture in holding tanks prior to bottling. This process contributes to the high cost of pure vanilla extract. The less-expensive imitation extract, on the other hand, relies primarily on the synthetic compound vanillin to mimic the smell and taste of real vanilla.
We compared batches of chocolate chip cookies and pastry cream made with each extract. When the extract was baked into the cookies, most tasters preferred the artificial vanilla, claiming that its “mild, natural” flavor melded nicely with the chocolaty cookies. In the pastry cream (where the extracts were added after cooking), the opinions were more varied. Some tasters lauded the “clean, floral” aroma of the pure vanilla, but others found it to be “too strong” and “boozy.”
The choice of which one to use comes down to cost and personal philosophy about using imitation products.
Made in a small springform pan, this chocolate cake gets bold flavor from unsweetened chocolate and cocoa powder.
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS By creating a supersteamy environment in the slow cooker, we were able to easily turn out a moist and tender chocolate cake. As we did with many of our slow-cooker cakes, we added water to the slow cooker and then elevated the pan on an aluminum foil rack. A combination of unsweetened chocolate and cocoa powder ensured there would be plenty of chocolate flavor. A little instant espresso reinforced the chocolate flavor, and sour cream added moisture and just the right amount of tang. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. A 6-inch round cake pan can be substituted for the springform pan. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount.
1. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and place aluminum foil rack in bottom. Grease 6-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper.
2. Whisk flour, salt, baking soda, and baking powder together in bowl. In large bowl, combine chocolate, cocoa, butter, and espresso powder. Pour boiling water over chocolate mixture, cover, and let sit until chocolate and butter are melted, 3 to 5 minutes. Whisk mixture until smooth; let cool slightly. Whisk brown sugar, sour cream, egg, and vanilla into cooled chocolate mixture until well combined. Stir in flour mixture until just incorporated.
3. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top. Gently tap pan on counter to release air bubbles. Set pan on prepared rack, cover, and cook until toothpick inserted in center comes out with few moist crumbs attached, 1 to 2 hours on high.
4. Let cake cool in pan on wire rack for 10 minutes. Run small knife around edge of cake, then remove sides of pan. Remove cake from pan bottom, discarding parchment, and let cool completely on rack, 1 to 2 hours. Transfer to serving dish and dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve.
MAKING A FOIL RACK
Loosely roll 24 by 12-inch piece of foil into 1-inch cylinder, then bend sides in to form oval ring that measures 8 inches long by 5 inches wide. <Is it clear enough from photo whether the foil is rolled the long or short way? After adding water to slow cooker, place foil rack in center.
This apple-y snack cake cooks to moist perfection in a springform pan set over a water bath in the slow cooker.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a simple dessert that would also satisfy that afternoon craving, we set our sights on a moist snack cake permeated with the sweet flavor of apples and infused with warm spice notes. A water bath ensured that it cooked through gently and evenly. Half a cup of applesauce guaranteed robust apple flavor throughout, and small amounts of cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves offered subtle spice flavor. To finish our easy cake, we dusted it with a bit of confectioners’ sugar. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. A 6-inch round cake pan can be substituted for the springform pan. Click here for more information on making a foil rack.
1. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and place aluminum foil rack in bottom. Grease 6-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper.
2. Whisk flour, baking soda, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, and cloves together in bowl. In large bowl, whisk granulated sugar, applesauce, egg, and vanilla until smooth, then slowly whisk in melted butter until well combined. Stir in flour mixture until just incorporated.
3. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top. Gently tap pan on counter to release air bubbles. Set pan on prepared rack, cover, and cook until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 3 to 4 hours on high.
4. Let cake cool in pan on wire rack for 10 minutes. Run small knife around edge of cake, then remove sides of pan. Remove cake from pan bottom, discarding parchment, and let cool completely on rack, 1 to 2 hours. Transfer to serving dish and dust with confectioners’ sugar. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Baking in the Slow Cooker
Scooping cakes or flan out of the bottom of a slow cooker just isn’t that appealing, which is why we turn to a variety of baking vessels, including 6-inch cake pans, 6-inch springform pans, loaf pans, and ramekins for desserts like cheesecake, crème brûlée, snack cakes, and flan. For cake and cheesecake recipes, we found elevating the baking vessels on an easy-to-make aluminum foil rack and adding water to the slow cooker created a moist environment, providing an oven-like atmosphere for our cakes. This ensured even, slow baking, giving us consistent texture throughout. For our custards, we used the slow cooker as a water bath and simply placed the vessels on the bottom of the insert.
We use a loaf pan in the slow cooker to shape desserts like this delicate blueberry quick bread.
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Fresh fruit is too often lost in heavy, overwhelmingly sweet desserts, so we set our sights on a versatile cake that would highlight the classically light combination of summery blueberries and moist cornbread. This cake is easy to assemble and works as both an afternoon coffee accompaniment and a welcome dessert for a summer meal. We used a quick-bread method of mixing, combining just 4 tablespoons of melted (instead of creamed) butter with sugar, egg, leaveners, and flour, which gave the cake good height and a substantial crumb. For soft and creamy results, we mixed in yogurt, which contributed a subtle sweetness and moisture for a delicate texture. The addition of lemon zest gave our cake the final brightness that we wanted, pairing well with the juicy blueberries. Do not use stone-ground cornmeal here; it will yield a drier and less tender cake. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. The test kitchen’s preferred loaf pan measures 8½ by 4½ inches, but you can substitute a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Click here for more information on making a foil rack.
1. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and place aluminum foil rack in bottom. Make foil sling for 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pan by folding 2 long sheets of foil; first sheet should be 8½ inches wide and second sheet should be 4½ inches wide. Lay sheets of foil in pan perpendicular to each other, with extra foil hanging over edges of pan. Push foil into corners and up sides of pan, smoothing foil flush to pan. Lightly grease foil.
2. Whisk flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and ½ teaspoon salt together in bowl. In large bowl, whisk yogurt, granulated sugar, egg, lemon zest, and vanilla until smooth, then slowly whisk in melted butter until well combined. Stir in flour mixture until just incorporated. Gently fold in blueberries.
3. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top. Gently tap pan on counter to release air bubbles. Set pan on prepared rack, cover, and cook until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 2 to 3 hours on high.
4. Let cake cool in pan on wire rack for 10 minutes. Using foil overhang, lift cake out of pan and transfer to rack; discard foil. Let cake cool completely, 1 to 2 hours.
5. Whisk confectioners’ sugar, pinch salt, and lemon juice in bowl until smooth. Flip cake over onto serving dish. Drizzle top and sides with glaze and let glaze set before serving, about 25 minutes.
The trick to scaling down this carrot cake for the slow cooker was the ratio of ¾ cup carrots to 7 tablespoons oil.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This humble cake really shines when the balance of sweet, shredded carrots and vegetable oil is just right, ensuring a moist, tender crumb. All too often, however, this cake dries out in the oven, unless you use a lot of oil. It turns out the slow cooker makes it far easier to produce a moist carrot cake without using all that oil. For a flavorful carrot cake with a moist, but not wet, texture, we tested different amounts of grated carrots and oil, both of which can weigh down the batter. In the end, ¾ cup of shredded carrots and 7 tablespoons of oil provided enough flavor and richness, respectively, without making the cake soggy or greasy. As for the spices, we found that a small amount of cinnamon and a pinch of cloves offered ample spice notes. Finally, the combination of baking powder and baking soda gave our cake the right amount of lift. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. A 6-inch round cake pan can be substituted for the springform pan. Click here for more information on making a foil rack.
1. FOR THE CAKE Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and place aluminum foil rack in bottom. Grease 6-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper.
2. Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, cloves, and salt together in bowl. In large bowl, whisk sugar and egg until smooth, then slowly whisk in oil until well combined. Stir in flour mixture until just incorporated. Gently fold in carrots.
3. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top. Gently tap pan on counter to release air bubbles. Set pan on prepared rack, cover, and cook until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 3 to 4 hours on high.
4. Let cake cool in pan on wire rack for 10 minutes. Run small knife around edge of cake, then remove sides of pan. Remove cake from pan bottom, discarding parchment, and let cool completely on rack, 1 to 2 hours. Transfer cake to serving dish.
5. FOR THE FROSTING Using handheld mixer set at medium-high speed, beat cream cheese, butter, vanilla, and salt in medium bowl until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Reduce speed to medium-low, gradually add sugar, and beat until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Increase speed to medium-high and beat until frosting is pale and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Spread frosting evenly over top of cake. Serve.
This fudgy, indulgent cake firms up as it cools, so temping it will ensure that you don’t overcook it.
SERVES 8
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This decadent cake requires just a handful of ingredients (chocolate, butter, eggs, and coffee) and can be made ahead of time, for an elegant and fuss-free finale. Removing the cake from the slow cooker when it was just slightly underdone (when it registered 140 degrees on an instant-read thermometer) was key because the cake continued to cook and firm up as it cooled. You will need an oval slow cooker and a 6-inch springform pan for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil rack. Check the temperature of the cake after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 140 degrees. To make neat slices, dip the knife blade into hot water and wipe it clean with a dish towel after each cut.
1. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and place aluminum foil rack in bottom. Grease 6-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper.
2. Microwave chocolate and butter in large bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until melted, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in coffee and let chocolate mixture cool slightly.
3. Using handheld mixer set at medium-low speed, whip eggs in separate bowl until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium-high and whip eggs until very thick and pale yellow, 5 to 10 minutes. Gently fold one-third of whipped eggs into chocolate mixture until few streaks remain. Repeat folding twice more with remaining whipped eggs and continue to fold batter until no streaks remain. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top. Set pan on prepared rack, cover, and cook until cake registers 140 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on high.
4. Transfer cake to wire rack. Run small knife around edge of cake and gently blot away condensation using paper towels. Let cake cool in pan to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 3 hours or up to 3 days.
5. About 30 minutes before serving, run small knife around edge of cake, then remove sides of pan. Invert cake onto sheet of parchment paper. Peel off and discard parchment baked onto cake. Turn cake right side up onto serving dish. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve.
SIMPLE ACCOMPANIMENTS
WHIPPED CREAM
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Using handheld mixer set at medium-low speed, whip cream, sugar, and vanilla until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to high and whip until soft peaks form, 1 to 3 minutes.
This rich slow-cooker cheesecake is easy to whip up: Both crust and filling can be made in the food processor.
SERVES 8
COOKING TIME 1½ TO 2½ HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Moving this luxurious dessert to the slow cooker ensures that it “bakes” through perfectly every time—no need to worry about cracks on the top. For a supremely creamy texture, we turned off the slow cooker once the cake registered 150 degrees on an instant-read thermometer and let the cheesecake sit in the slow cooker for an hour so it could gently finish cooking. A simple crust of graham crackers, butter, and sugar was a snap to make in a food processor and, with the processor already out, we could easily reuse it to attain a supersmooth filling. By mixing the cream cheese with sugar, sour cream, and a couple of eggs, we achieved the perfect balance of richness and sweetness. You will need an oval slow cooker and a 6-inch springform pan for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil rack. Check the temperature of the cheesecake after 1½ hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 150 degrees. To make neat slices, dip the knife blade into hot water and wipe it clean with a dish towel after each cut.
1. Pulse graham crackers in food processor to fine crumbs, about 20 pulses. Add melted butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, cinnamon, and pinch salt and pulse to combine, about 4 pulses. Sprinkle crumbs into 6-inch springform pan and press into even layer using bottom of dry measuring cup. Wipe out processor bowl.
2. Process cream cheese, vanilla, ¼ teaspoon salt, and remaining ⅔ cup sugar in now-empty processor until combined, about 15 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add sour cream and eggs and process until just incorporated, about 15 seconds; do not overmix. Pour filling into prepared pan and smooth top.
3. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and place aluminum foil rack in bottom. Set pan on prepared rack, cover, and cook until cheesecake registers 150 degrees, 1½ to 2½ hours on high. Turn off slow cooker and let cheesecake sit, covered, for 1 hour.
4. Transfer cheesecake to wire rack. Run small knife around edge of cake and gently blot away condensation using paper towels. Let cheesecake cool in pan to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 3 hours or up to 3 days.
5. About 30 minutes before serving, run small knife around edge of cheesecake, then remove sides of pan. Invert cheesecake onto sheet of parchment paper, then turn cheesecake right side up onto serving dish. Serve.
SERVES 8
COOKING TIME 1½ TO 2½ HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For the ultimate in decadence, we added melted semisweet chocolate and cocoa powder to our Rich and Creamy Cheesecake. Swapping out the graham crackers for chocolate sandwich cookies ensured a flavorful crust. Any brand of chocolate sandwich cookies will work well here, but avoid any “double-filled” cookies because the crust won’t set properly. You will need an oval slow cooker and a 6-inch springform pan for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil rack. Check the temperature of the cheesecake after 1½ hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 150 degrees. To make neat slices, dip the knife blade into hot water and wipe it clean with a dish towel after each cut.
1. Pulse cookies in food processor to fine crumbs, about 20 pulses. Add melted butter and pulse to combine, about 4 pulses. Sprinkle crumbs into 6-inch springform pan and press into even layer using bottom of dry measuring cup. Wipe out processor bowl.
2. Microwave chocolate in bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until melted, 1 to 2 minutes; let cool slightly. Process cream cheese, sugar, and salt in now-empty processor until combined, about 15 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add cooled chocolate, sour cream, eggs, cocoa, and vanilla and process until just incorporated, about 15 seconds; do not overmix. Pour filling into prepared pan and smooth top.
3. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and place aluminum foil rack in bottom. Set pan on prepared rack, cover, and cook until cheesecake registers 150 degrees, 1½ to 2½ hours on high. Turn off slow cooker and let cheesecake sit, covered, for 1 hour.
4. Transfer cheesecake to wire rack. Run small knife around edge of cake and gently blot away condensation using paper towels. Let cheesecake cool in pan to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 3 hours or up to 3 days.
5. About 30 minutes before serving, run small knife around edge of cheesecake, then remove sides of pan. Invert cheesecake onto sheet of parchment paper, then turn cheesecake right side up onto serving dish. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Cream Cheese
Supermarket shelves aren’t exactly overflowing with cream cheese options. Whenever we need cream cheese in the test kitchen, we instinctively reach for Philadelphia brand. But is Philadelphia the best or just the most familiar and widely available?
To find out, we gathered all the types of cream cheese we could find—a paltry five, three of which were Philadelphia brand. We tasted the samples plain on bagels and in a cheesecake recipe and judged the cream cheeses on richness, tanginess, creaminess, and overall quality. One product swept both the plain and the cheesecake taste tests in all categories: Philadelphia Original. Though some liked the easy spreadability of Philadelphia Whipped, and most were enthusiastic about buttery Organic Valley (our second-place finisher), the familiar Philadelphia Original was appointed the cream cheese of choice in the test kitchen. All but one of the products we tasted can be recommended. Despite our best hopes, Philadelphia ⅓ Less Fat tanked, coming in last. While we would have been thrilled to offer a low-fat cream cheese as a suitable option, its artificial flavor and stiff texture forced it out of consideration.
SERVES 8
COOKING TIME 1½ TO 2½ HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For a seasonal take on our Rich and Creamy Cheesecake, we found we could substitute a little pumpkin puree for some of the cream cheese. Thoroughly drying the puree before mixing enabled the filling to remain indulgently creamy and dense. We eschewed store-bought pumpkin spice for a judicious custom blend so that the flavor of the pumpkin would shine through even as the blend invoked the warmth of fall. The gentle heat of the slow cooker eliminated the risk of overcooking the center and cracking on top while also freeing up the oven. You will need an oval slow cooker and a 6-inch springform pan for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil rack. Check the temperature of the cheesecake after 1½ hours of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 150 degrees. To make neat slices, dip the knife blade into hot water and wipe it clean with a dish towel after each cut.
1. Pulse graham crackers in food processor to fine crumbs, about 20 pulses. Add melted butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, ½ teaspoon cinnamon, and pinch salt and pulse to combine, about 4 pulses. Sprinkle crumbs into 6-inch springform pan and press into even layer using bottom of dry measuring cup. Wipe out processor bowl.
2. Spread pumpkin puree over baking sheet lined with several layers of paper towels and press dry with additional towels. Transfer puree to now-empty processor bowl (puree will separate easily from towels). Add cream cheese, ginger, cloves, ½ teaspoon salt, remaining ⅔ cup sugar, and remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon and process until combined, about 15 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add sour cream and eggs and process until just incorporated, about 15 seconds; do not overmix. Pour filling into prepared pan and smooth top.
3. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and place aluminum foil rack in bottom. Set pan on prepared rack, cover, and cook until cheesecake registers 150 degrees, 1½ to 2½ hours on high. Turn off slow cooker and let cheesecake sit, covered, for 1 hour.
4. Transfer cheesecake to wire rack. Run small knife around edge of cake and gently blot away condensation using paper towels. Let cheesecake cool in pan to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 3 hours or up to 3 days.
5. About 30 minutes before serving, run small knife around edge of cheesecake, then remove sides of pan. Invert cheesecake onto sheet of parchment paper, then turn cheesecake right side up onto serving dish. Serve.
We replace an egg yolk with cream cheese for a filling that emerges from the slow cooker silken and sliceable.
SERVES 8
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS We think a great Key lime pie is defined not just by the fragile balance of sweet and sour but also by its creamy, just-set filling. We knew we had to be gentle in our slow-cooker “bake,” so we used a water bath to cook the classic Key lime pie constituents of condensed milk, limes, and egg yolks. Results were mixed at first, as the delicate filling rapidly went from soupy to overcooked, and we didn’t fancy hovering over our slow cooker to catch that fleeting moment of perfection. To solve our dilemma, we employed a trick we’ve used in baking bars—replacing some of the egg yolks with just 2 ounces of cream cheese—which gave us a more resilient filling that remained silken and sliced perfectly. For our crust, a simple graham cracker press-in gave us enough structure and buttery indulgence to counter our zesty filling. Pressing toasty shredded coconut onto the edge of the pie made for a beautiful presentation and added further complexity to this sweet-sour custard creation. You will need an oval slow cooker and a 6-inch springform pan for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil rack. Check the temperature of the pie after 1 hour of cooking and continue to monitor until it registers 150 degrees. To make neat slices, dip the knife blade into hot water and wipe it clean with a dish towel after each cut.
1. Pulse graham crackers in food processor to fine crumbs, about 20 pulses. Add melted butter, sugar, and pinch salt and pulse to combine, about 4 pulses. Sprinkle crumbs into 6-inch springform pan and press into even layer using bottom of dry measuring cup. Wipe out processor bowl.
2. Process condensed milk, lime zest and juice, and cream cheese in now-empty processor until combined, about 15 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add egg yolk and process until just incorporated, about 5 seconds. Pour filling into prepared pan and smooth top.
3. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and place aluminum foil rack in bottom. Set pan on prepared rack, cover, and cook until pie registers 150 degrees, 1 to 2 hours on high. Turn slow cooker off and let pie sit, covered, for 1 hour.
4. Transfer pie to wire rack. Run small knife around edge of pie and gently blot away condensation using paper towels. Let pie cool in pan to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 3 hours or up to 3 days.
5. About 30 minutes before serving, run small knife around edge of pie, then remove sides of pan. Invert pie onto sheet of parchment paper, then turn pie right side up onto serving dish. Press coconut gently against sides of pie to adhere; wipe away excess coconut. Serve.
ASSEMBLING A CRUMB CRUST
Sprinkle crumbs into 6-inch springform pan and press into even layer using bottom of dry measuring cup.
The alchemy of this cake is magical and delivers both pudding and cake for the ultimate comfort food.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This recipe for slow-cooker Chocolate Pudding Cake may sound, well, like a recipe for disaster—combine dry ingredients with wet, scrape into the slow cooker, sprinkle with sugar and cocoa powder, and then pour boiling water over the whole thing—but trust us, all will be well and delicious. The cocoa and sugar on top of the batter bubble as they cook to form a pudding-style chocolate sauce on the bottom, while a chewy, brownie-like cake rises to the top. The batter is a simple mixture of pantry staples—flour, sugar, cocoa, baking powder, and salt combined with milk, melted butter, egg yolk, and vanilla. We folded in a handful of semisweet chocolate chips to add another layer of flavor and ensure plenty of gooey pockets in the baked cake. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil collar. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Whisk flour, ½ cup sugar, ¼ cup cocoa, baking powder, and salt together in large bowl. In separate bowl, whisk together milk, melted butter, egg yolk, and vanilla. Stir milk mixture into flour mixture until just combined. Fold in chocolate chips (batter will be stiff).
2. Scrape batter into prepared slow cooker and spread to edges. Combine remaining ½ cup sugar and remaining ¼ cup cocoa in clean bowl and sprinkle evenly over top. Slowly pour boiling water evenly over top. Do not stir. Cover and cook until cake is puffed, top is lightly set, and center is gooey when pierced with toothpick, 1 to 2 hours on high.
3. Discard foil collar. Turn off slow cooker and let cake sit, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Cocoa Powder
This potent source of chocolate flavor is nothing more than unsweetened chocolate with much of the fat removed. Cocoa powder comes in natural and Dutched versions. Dutch-processed cocoa has been treated with an alkaline substance to make it less acidic (Dutching also darkens the cocoa’s color). In some cases, the type of cocoa can make a noticeable difference, but for the recipes in this book we had good results with both regular (natural) products and Dutched cocoas. Our favorite natural cocoa is Hershey’s Natural Unsweetened Cocoa; our favorite Dutch-processed cocoa is Droste Cocoa.
Individual Lemon Pudding Cakes
These tart lemon pudding cakes are easier to make in the slow cooker than in the oven: no fussy water bath needed.
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS During cooking, these magical little cakes separate into two layers: a rich pudding underneath, and a delicate, tender cake on top. We began by combining sugar, melted butter, and egg yolks, then added milk and a good amount of lemon zest and juice for brightness. Next, we folded in whipped egg whites and portioned our batter into ramekins. A water bath ensured that they cooked through gently and evenly. After about an hour, these individual cakes offered the perfect mix of tender cake, creamy custard, and intense lemon flavor. You will need an oval slow cooker and four 6-ounce round ramekins for this recipe.
1. In large bowl, whisk sugar, melted butter, egg yolks, and salt until smooth. Whisk in flour, then whisk in milk and lemon zest and juice until just incorporated.
2. Using handheld mixer set at medium-low speed, whip egg whites and cream of tartar in separate bowl until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium-high and whip until stiff peaks form, 2 to 4 minutes. Gently fold one-third of whipped egg whites into batter until few streaks remain. Fold remaining egg whites into batter until no streaks remain.
3. Divide batter evenly among four 6-ounce ramekins and smooth tops. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and set ramekins in slow cooker. Cover and cook until cakes are domed and tops are just firm to touch, 1 to 2 hours on low. Using tongs and sturdy spatula, remove ramekins from slow cooker. Serve warm.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Whipping Egg Whites
Lemon pudding cakes rely on perfectly whipped whites for their lightness, so it’s important to whip them right. Egg whites whipped to soft peaks, which droop slightly from the tip of the whisk or beater, will not have the structure to support the cake properly. Egg whites whipped to stiff peaks (shown), standing up tall on their own on the tip of the whisk or beater, have the ideal structure to support a light-as-air pudding cake. Overwhipped egg whites, which will look curdled and separated, will not incorporate well into the cake base and will often result in flat cakes. (If your whites are overwhipped, start over with new whites and a clean bowl.)
SERVES 4
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS With a flavor that’s intense and rich, and a texture that’s cakey yet soufflé-like, these little desserts are utterly satisfying. Plus they’re easy enough to get into the slow cooker for a sweet finish on a busy weeknight. For ours, we whipped two eggs and an egg yolk, then added sugar, melted chocolate and butter, vanilla, and a single tablespoon of flour before portioning our batter into four ramekins. To ensure that each cake had a dense, superfudgy center, we simply pressed a small piece of chocolate into the middle of each ramekin before cooking. You will need an oval slow cooker and four 6-ounce round ramekins for this recipe.
1. Microwave chopped chocolate and butter in large bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until melted, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in vanilla and let chocolate mixture cool slightly.
2. Using handheld mixer set at medium-low speed, whip eggs and yolk in separate bowl until foamy, about 1 minute. Gradually whip in granulated sugar and salt, about 30 seconds. Increase speed to medium-high and continue to whip mixture until very thick and pale yellow, 5 to 10 minutes. Scrape whipped egg mixture on top of cooled chocolate mixture, then sift flour over top. Gently fold together until no streaks remain.
3. Divide batter evenly among four 6-ounce ramekins. Gently press 1 piece broken chocolate into center of each ramekin to submerge, and smooth tops. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and set ramekins in slow cooker. Cover and cook until cakes are domed and tops are just firm to touch, 1 to 2 hours on low. Using tongs and sturdy spatula, remove ramekins from slow cooker. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve warm.
SERVES 4 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS For this easy, foolproof slow-cooker version of crème brûlée, we simply whisked a good amount of cream and egg yolks together with some sugar and vanilla extract. These custards cooked to creamy perfection thanks to the gentle heat of the slow cooker. Cooking the custards on low until the centers were just barely set and then chilling them also ensured a smooth, rich texture. Turbinado sugar, sprinkled over the top and heated with a kitchen torch, gave our crème brûlée a picture-perfect crust. You will need an oval slow cooker and four 6-ounce round ramekins for this recipe. Check the temperature of the custards after 2 hours of cooking and continue to monitor until they register 185 degrees. While we prefer turbinado or Demerara sugar for the sugar crust, regular granulated sugar will work.
1. Whisk cream, egg yolks, granulated sugar, vanilla, and salt in bowl until sugar has dissolved. Strain custard through fine-mesh strainer into 4-cup liquid measuring cup. Divide custard evenly among four 6-ounce ramekins. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and set ramekins in slow cooker. Cover and cook until centers are just barely set and register 185 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
2. Using tongs and sturdy spatula, transfer ramekins to wire rack and let cool to room temperature, about 2 hours. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 4 hours or up to 2 days.
3. To serve, gently blot away condensation using paper towels. Sprinkle each ramekin with 1 teaspoon turbinado sugar. Tilt and tap each ramekin to distribute sugar evenly, then dump out excess sugar and wipe rims of ramekins clean. Ignite torch and caramelize sugar. Refrigerate ramekins, uncovered, to rechill custard before serving, 30 to 45 minutes.
CARAMELIZING CRÈME BRÛLÉE
1. After sprinkling sugar over surface of each custard, tilt and tap ramekin to distribute sugar into thin, even layer. Pour out any excess sugar and wipe inside rim clean.
2. To caramelize sugar, sweep flame of torch from perimeter of custard toward middle, keeping flame about 2 inches above ramekin, until sugar is bubbling and deep golden brown.
Cooking our rich and creamy flan in a narrow loaf pan makes it easier to unmold without cracking.
SERVES 6 TO 8
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Flan is a classic Spanish dessert, slightly sweeter than a traditional baked custard, and with a crowning touch of thin, sweet caramel that pools over the dish once unmolded. To create our slow-cooker version we opted for a base of sweetened condensed milk and whole milk. Mixing the dairy with a combination of whole eggs, egg yolks, and sugar resulted in a tender, rich custard. We tried to make our caramel topping in the microwave but could not achieve the right texture or color, so we moved it to the stovetop. A water bath ensured that the custard cooked evenly. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Check the temperature of the custard after 2 hours and continue to monitor until it registers 180 degrees. The test kitchen’s preferred loaf pan measures 8½ by 4½ inches, but you can substitute a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Serve the flan on a dish with a raised rim to contain the liquid caramel.
1. Place ¼ cup water in large saucepan. Pour sugar into center of pan, taking care not to let sugar crystals touch pan sides. Gently stir with spatula to moisten sugar thoroughly. Bring mixture to boil over medium heat, without stirring, until it begins to turn golden, 4 to 7 minutes. Gently swirling pan, continue to cook until sugar is color of peanut butter, 1 to 2 minutes.
2. Remove pan from heat and continue to swirl pan until sugar is reddish-amber and fragrant, 15 to 20 seconds. Immediately add remaining 2 tablespoons water (mixture will bubble) and swirl pan until water is incorporated. Pour caramel into 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pan; do not scrape out saucepan.
3. Whisk eggs and yolks together in medium bowl. Whisk in milk, condensed milk, and lemon zest until incorporated, then pour into prepared pan. Fill slow cooker with ½ inch water (about 2 cups) and set pan in slow cooker. Cover and cook until center of flan jiggles slightly when shaken and registers 180 degrees, 2 to 3 hours on low.
4. Transfer pan to wire rack and let cool to room temperature, about 2 hours. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 8 hours or up to 4 days.
5. To serve, slide paring knife around edges of pan. Invert serving dish on top of pan, and turn pan and dish over. When flan is released, remove loaf pan. Use rubber spatula to scrape residual caramel onto flan. Slice and serve.
A mixture of water and half-and-half gives this rice pudding perfect texture, and a parchment shield aids in even cooking.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS At its best, rice pudding boasts intact, tender grains bound loosely in a subtly sweet, milky sauce. For our slow-cooker version, we set out to determine how much and what types of liquid to use. Milk (often used in traditional recipes) did not fare well, leaving us with unappealing curdled flecks throughout the pudding. Cream, on the other hand, was too rich and obscured the flavor of the rice. In the end, equal parts water and half-and-half worked best, providing a satisfying but not too rich consistency. Placing a parchment shield over the surface of the rice while it cooked—a technique we honed through our rice pilafs—ensured that the rice was more evenly cooked. We prefer pudding made from medium-grain rice, though long-grain rice works too. Click here for more information on creating a parchment shield. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Combine boiling water, half-and-half, rice, sugar, and salt in prepared slow cooker. Gently press 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper onto surface of water mixture, folding down edges as needed. Cover and cook until rice is tender and mixture is creamy, 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Discard parchment. Stir raisins, vanilla, and cinnamon into rice and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Adjust consistency with extra hot water as needed. Serve.
SERVES 8 TO 10
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
Our slow-cooker bread pudding boasts tender bread cubes enveloped by a rich custard and accented with a few stir-ins and a simple topping. Getting the texture of this company-worthy dessert just right was a challenge; early tests yielded mushy or dry puddings. After testing types of bread, we settled on challah for its rich flavor. Using staled bread was key as it was much better at soaking up our custard. By soaking and pressing the bread into the custard for just 10 minutes prior to cooking we ensured that the bread absorbed the custard evenly. After 3 hours in the slow cooker, we had moist, evenly cooked bread pudding that was definitely luxurious. Hearty white sandwich bread can be substituted for the challah. If you don’t have stale bread, you can dry fresh bread pieces by baking them on a rimmed baking sheet in a 225-degree oven for about 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. Click here for more information on making a foil collar.
1 CLASSIC BREAD PUDDING
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Whisk cream, milk, egg yolks, granulated sugar, vanilla, lemon zest, and salt in large bowl until sugar has dissolved. Stir in challah and let sit, pressing on bread occasionally, until custard is mostly absorbed, about 10 minutes.
2. Transfer challah mixture to prepared slow cooker and spread into even layer. Combine brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg in bowl and sprinkle over top. Cover and cook until center of bread pudding is set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
3. Turn off slow cooker and let bread pudding cool, covered, for 30 minutes. Discard foil collar. Serve.
2 BOURBON BREAD PUDDING
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Whisk cream, milk, egg yolks, ¾ cup sugar, bourbon, vanilla, salt, and cardamom in large bowl until sugar has dissolved. Stir in challah and let sit, pressing on bread occasionally, until custard is mostly absorbed, about 10 minutes.
2. Transfer challah mixture to prepared slow cooker and spread into even layer. Sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Cover and cook until center of bread pudding is set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
3. Turn off slow cooker and let bread pudding cool, covered, for 30 minutes. Discard foil collar and sprinkle with pecans. Serve.
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Whisk cream, milk, egg yolks, Nutella, sugar, vanilla, and salt in large bowl until sugar has dissolved and mixture is well combined. Stir in challah and ½ cup chocolate chips and let sit, pressing on bread occasionally, until custard is mostly absorbed, about 10 minutes.
2. Transfer challah mixture to prepared slow cooker and spread into even layer. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup chocolate chips. Cover and cook until center of bread pudding is set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
3. Turn off slow cooker and let bread pudding cool, covered, for 30 minutes. Discard foil collar. Serve.
4 WHITE CHOCOLATE AND CHERRY BREAD PUDDING
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Whisk cream, milk, egg yolks, sugar, vanilla, and salt in large bowl until sugar has dissolved. Stir in challah, cherries, and ½ cup chocolate chips and let sit, pressing on bread occasionally, until custard is mostly absorbed, about 10 minutes.
2. Transfer challah mixture to prepared slow cooker and spread into even layer. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup chocolate chips. Cover and cook until center of bread pudding is set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
3. Turn off slow cooker and let bread pudding cool, covered, for 30 minutes. Discard foil collar and sprinkle with pistachios. Serve.
5 RUM-RAISIN BREAD PUDDING
1. Line slow cooker with aluminum foil collar and lightly coat with vegetable oil spray. Microwave raisins and rum in small bowl until hot, about 45 seconds; let cool slightly.
2. Whisk cream, milk, egg yolks, ¾ cup sugar, vanilla, and salt in large bowl until sugar has dissolved. Stir in challah and raisin mixture and let sit, pressing on bread occasionally, until custard is mostly absorbed, about 10 minutes.
3. Transfer challah mixture to prepared slow cooker and spread into even layer. Sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Cover and cook until center of bread pudding is set, 3 to 4 hours on low.
4. Turn off slow cooker and let bread pudding cool, covered, for 30 minutes. Discard foil collar. Serve.
We cook the topping for this crisp in the oven, which keeps things simple because it can be made ahead.
SERVES 6 TO 8 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A great fruit crisp marries sweet, almost fall-apart-tender fruit with a buttery-rich and crisp topping, so there is no wonder that it is an appealing dessert option. What’s tricky about making a fruit crisp is ensuring that the filling and topping are perfectly cooked and ready to serve when dinner is over. Turns out that using the slow cooker makes this feat easier and more streamlined. We knew from the outset that we’d have to cook the topping separately—it would simply steam on top of the filling. But all that moist heat made the slow cooker the perfect vessel for making the apple filling: As the apples cooked, they were infused with flavor from the mixture of brown sugar, cinnamon, and cider. Cutting the apples into thick wedges ensured that they did not turn to mush during the long cooking time. And as they cooked and released their juice, they formed a delicious sauce, which was thickened by a little instant tapioca that we had added at the outset. For the crisp topping, we made a simple dough using rolled oats, almonds, a little butter, honey, and spices. After cooking it separately in the oven, we crumbled it over the top before serving.
1. FOR THE FILLING Combine all ingredients in slow cooker. Cover and cook until apples are tender and sauce is thickened, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. FOR THE TOPPING Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Pulse almonds, flour, sugar, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg in food processor until nuts are finely chopped, about 10 pulses. Drizzle melted butter over top and pulse until mixture resembles crumbly wet sand, about 5 pulses. Add oats and honey and pulse until evenly incorporated, about 3 pulses.
3. Spread topping evenly over parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet and pinch it between your fingers into small pea-size pieces (with some smaller loose bits). Bake until golden brown, 8 to 12 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking; let cool slightly. (Topping can be stored in airtight container for up to 1 day.)
4. Turn off slow cooker and let apple filling cool for 20 minutes. Gently stir apples to coat with sauce. Sprinkle individual portions of filling with crumbles before serving.
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS One of our all-time favorite fruit desserts is peach crisp, which should taste like summer, full of juicy peach flavor, with a buttery, nutty topping. We tried using fresh peaches, but we had trouble getting a consistent texture; some peaches turned out mushy while others refused to soften even after hours in our cooker. To get a consistent peach texture and flavor we opted to use frozen peaches, which are quickly frozen at the height of ripeness, ensuring their quality and flavor and making this dish possible any time of year. We decided to complement the sweet peach flavor with the spicy heat of ginger by using crystallized ginger in the filling and ground ginger in the topping. For the cookie-like crisp topping, we made a simple dough, cooked it separately in the oven, and crumbled it over the top before serving.
1. FOR THE FILLING Combine all ingredients in slow cooker. Cover and cook until peaches are tender and sauce is thickened, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. FOR THE TOPPING Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Pulse flour, granulated sugar, brown sugar, vanilla, ginger, and salt in food processor until combined, about 5 pulses. Sprinkle butter and ¼ cup almonds over top and process until mixture clumps together into large crumbly balls, about 30 seconds. Sprinkle remaining ¼ cup almonds over top and pulse to incorporate, about 2 pulses.
3. Spread topping evenly over parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet and pinch it between your fingers into small pea-size pieces (with some smaller loose bits). Bake until golden brown, about 18 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking; let cool slightly. (Topping can be stored in airtight container for up to 1 day.)
4. Turn off slow cooker and let peach filling cool for 20 minutes. Gently stir peaches to coat with sauce. Sprinkle individual portions of filling with crumbles before serving.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Tapioca: Slow Cooking Secret Ingredient
When we’re making stews or braises, or when we want thickened sauces, we usually reach for flour. But we’ve found that flour requires cooking on the stovetop to remove its raw flavor. In search of a thickener that we could simply stir into the slow cooker, we hit upon tapioca, which is made from starch extracted from the root of the cassava plant (also called manioc or yuca).
Tapioca is available in several forms, but flour, pearl, and instant are the most common. After the cassava starch grains are removed from the root’s cells, they are heated and ruptured, which converts the starches into small, irregular masses. These masses are then baked into flakes that are finely ground to make tapioca flour, or they’re forced through sieves and baked again to form pearl tapioca. Tapioca pearls are gelatinous spheres; they come in various sizes ranging from 1 to 8 millimeters in diameter and must be rehydrated before using. Minute, or instant, tapioca is made from tapioca flour and is precooked, then coarsely ground. It dissolves quickly and doesn’t require presoaking, making it our favorite choice for thickening. It is also the most widely available. Tapioca flour and pearl tapioca can be substituted for instant tapioca, but pearl tapioca will not fully dissolve and will lend a slightly grainy texture to the dish. Stored in a cool, dark place, all types of tapioca will keep indefinitely.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS It doesn’t get much easier or tastier than our slow-cooker blueberry cobbler, full of sweet, juicy blueberries offset with some fragrant lemon zest and juice, and topped with tender biscuits. But getting the filling just to our liking took a little investigative work. We started by testing different types of blueberries (frozen and fresh) and ultimately found both worked well. Our final issue was the texture—we couldn’t get the filling thick enough without adding excessive tapioca, which made it too gloppy. We borrowed a trick from our blueberry pie recipe and added an apple into the mix; the gentle heat of the slow cooker activated the apple’s pectin—which is a natural thickener. Our biscuit topping (cooked separately in the oven) started out as a fairly standard drop biscuit: a mix of flour, butter, baking powder and soda, sugar, salt, and buttermilk. However, we added a dash of vanilla to the dough and sprinkled the shaped dough with cinnamon sugar before baking to create crisp but tender biscuits with hints of vanilla and cinnamon—perfect for serving with our blueberry filling. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. FOR THE FILLING Combine all ingredients in slow cooker. Cover and cook until blueberries are softened and sauce is thickened, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. FOR THE BISCUITS Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Whisk flour, ¼ cup sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together in large bowl. In separate bowl, whisk buttermilk, melted butter, and vanilla together. Gently stir buttermilk mixture into flour mixture until dough is just combined.
3. Divide dough into 6 equal pieces, round gently into biscuits, and place on parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet, spaced about 1½ inches apart. Combine remaining 2 teaspoons sugar and cinnamon in bowl and sprinkle over top of biscuits. Bake until biscuits are golden and cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking. Transfer biscuits to wire rack and set aside. (Biscuits can be stored at room temperature for up to 8 hours.)
4. Turn off slow cooker. Arrange biscuits on top of blueberry filling, cover, and let cool for 20 minutes. Serve.
NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN
Using Frozen Blueberries
You can use either fresh or frozen blueberries in our muffins and scones. During the summer, when blueberries are ripe, it’s a no-brainer what you’d choose. But these days you can find fresh berries in your supermarket almost year-round.
Last winter, the test kitchen tried fresh berries from Chile as well as five frozen brands in a cobbler. The frozen wild berries easily beat the fresh imported berries as well as the other frozen contenders. (Compared with cultivated berries, wild berries are smaller, more intense in color, firmer in texture, and sweeter and tangier.) While frozen cultivated berries trailed in the tasting, all but one brand received decent scores.
Why did frozen wild berries beat fresh berries? To help them survive the long trip north, the imported berries are picked before they have a chance to fully ripen. As a result, they are often tart and not so flavorful. Frozen berries have been picked at their peak—when perfectly ripe—and are then individually quick frozen (IQF) at −20 degrees. The quick freezing preserves their sweetness, letting us enjoy them year-round.
Easy-to-make and sturdy dumplings cook best atop this fruit dessert when arranged around the perimeter of the insert.
SERVES 8
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS A grunt is an old-fashioned summer fruit dessert topped with sweet, tender dumplings. The fruit is traditionally simmered in a pot, and the dumplings are dropped on top and steamed until fluffy and light. Using frozen cherries makes this rustic dessert an option even in the dead of winter, and it cuts down on prep time. For a filling that was thick and jammy, we microwaved the cherries with some of the flour (along with sugar and other flavorings) so the released juice would be absorbed by the flour, then moved the mixture to the slow cooker. Positioning the dumplings around the perimeter of the slow cooker—where it’s hottest—guaranteed that they were completely cooked through by the time the filling was done. A sprinkle of cinnamon sugar added flavor and a slight crunch to our dumplings. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Combine cherries, ¼ cup flour, 1 cup sugar, lemon juice, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and almond extract in bowl. Microwave until cherries begin to release their liquid, about 5 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving. Stir cherry mixture well, transfer to slow cooker, and spread into even layer.
2. In large bowl, combine remaining 1¾ cups flour, 2 tablespoons sugar, baking powder, and salt. Stir in milk and melted butter until just combined; do not overmix. In small bowl, combine remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and remaining ¼ teaspoon cinnamon.
3. Using greased ¼ cup measure, drop 8 dumplings around perimeter of slow cooker on top of cherries, leaving center empty. Sprinkle dumplings with cinnamon-sugar mixture. Cover and cook until toothpick inserted in center of dumplings comes out clean, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high. Turn off slow cooker and let grunt cool for 20 minutes before serving.
ASSEMBLING CHERRY GRUNT
Using greased ¼-cup dry measuring cup, arrange dumplings around perimeter of slow cooker to ensure that they cook through completely.
Stuffed Apples with Dried Cherries and Hazelnuts
A complex filling with hazelnuts, dried cherries, and oats turns humble Granny Smiths into a pleasing dessert.
SERVES 6
COOKING TIME 4 TO 5 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 5 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This homey dessert is often plagued with a mushy texture and cloyingly sweet flavor. We wanted cooked apples that were tender and firm, and a filling that perfectly complemented their sweet-tart flavor. We knew picking the right variety of apple was paramount to our success and, after extensive testing, we arrived at a surprising winner: Granny Smith was the best apple for the job, with its firm flesh and tart, fruity flavor. To ensure our fruit avoided even the occasional collapse, we peeled the apples after cutting off their tops. The skin on top trapped steam released by the breakdown of the apples’ interior cells, and removing the rest of it allowed the steam to escape and the apple to retain its firm texture. By keeping the heat low, the apples cooked evenly and didn’t turn mushy. Our filling base of tangy dried cherries, brown sugar, and hazelnuts benefited from some finessing by way of black pepper, orange zest, and a few pats of butter. To punch up the flavor even more, we added chewy rolled oats and diced apple. We then capped the filled apples with the tops we had lopped off. A drizzle of maple syrup commingled with the cooking juices, which, when emulsified with more butter at the end, turned into a complex sauce and topped off a surprisingly elegant dish. A melon baller helps to create a cavity that fits plenty of filling. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Peel and core 1 apple and cut into ¼-inch pieces. Combine apple, 5 tablespoons butter, sugar, cherries, hazelnuts, oats, orange zest, pepper, and salt in bowl; set aside.
2. Shave thin slice off bottom (blossom end) of remaining 6 apples to allow them to sit flat. Cut top ½ inch off stem end of apples and reserve. Peel apples and use melon baller or small measuring spoon to cut 1½-inch diameter opening from core, being careful not to cut through bottom of apple. Spoon filling inside apples, mounding excess filling over cavities; top with reserved apple caps.
3. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Arrange stuffed apples in prepared slow cooker. Drizzle with maple syrup, cover, and cook until skewer inserted into apples meets little resistance, 4 to 5 hours on low.
4. Using tongs and sturdy spatula, transfer apples to serving dish. Whisk remaining 3 tablespoons butter into cooking liquid, 1 tablespoon at a time, until incorporated. Spoon sauce over apples and serve.
PREPARING APPLES FOR STUFFING
After peeling apples, use melon baller or small measuring spoon to remove 1½-inch diameter opening from core, being careful not to cut through bottom of apples.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Here we poached pears in sugar-sweetened white wine with fresh herbs, lemon zest, vanilla, and cinnamon. But for a sauce thick enough to coat the pears, we needed to reduce it on the stovetop. Chilling the pears in the sauce allowed the fruit to absorb even more flavor while taking on a lovely translucent appearance. For the best texture, look for pears that are neither fully ripe nor rock hard; choose those that yield just slightly when pressed. We recommend a medium-bodied dry white wine such as Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Whisk wine and sugar together in slow cooker until sugar has dissolved. Cut vanilla bean in half lengthwise. Using tip of paring knife, scrape out seeds. Stir vanilla bean and seeds, lemon zest, mint sprigs, thyme sprigs, cinnamon stick, and salt into wine mixture. Nestle pears into slow cooker, cover, and cook until skewer inserted into pears meets little resistance, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Using slotted spoon, transfer pears to shallow casserole dish. Strain cooking liquid into large saucepan. Bring to simmer over medium heat and cook until thickened and measures about 1⅓ cups, about 15 minutes. Pour sauce over pears, cover, and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours or up to 3 days. Serve.
CORING PEARS
1. Peel pear and cut in half through core.
2. Guide melon baller in circular motion to cut around central core. Draw melon baller to top of pear, then remove blossom end.
The tea-infused poaching liquid was so delicious that we decided to reduce it on the stovetop for a sauce.
SERVES 6 LIGHT
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Poaching pears in tea creates a fragrant and delicate dessert. We created a poaching liquid strong enough to add flavor but not bitterness; a ratio of four tea bags to 3 cups water worked best. A cinnamon stick and star anise added subtle complexity. We reduced the flavorful liquid on the stovetop to create a warm spiced sauce to pour over the pears. For a rich and creamy topping we combined confectioners’ sugar with Greek yogurt and Grand Marnier. For the best texture, look for pears that are neither fully ripe nor rock hard; choose those that yield just slightly when pressed. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe. For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount.
1. Combine boiling water, tea bags, cinnamon stick, star anise, and ½ teaspoon salt in slow cooker and let steep for 8 minutes; discard tea bags. Whisk in brown sugar until dissolved. Nestle pears into slow cooker, cover, and cook until skewer inserted into pears meets little resistance, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high.
2. Using slotted spoon, transfer pears to shallow casserole dish. Strain cooking liquid into large saucepan. Bring to simmer over medium heat and cook until thickened and measures about 1 cup, 15 to 20 minutes. Pour sauce over pears, cover, and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours or up to 3 days.
3. Whisk yogurt, confectioners’ sugar, Grand Marnier, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in bowl until combined. Dollop individual portions with yogurt topping before serving.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS This iconic New Orleans dessert is usually served flambéed at tableside. To save effort, stove space, and our eyebrows, we adapted it for the slow cooker, and it could hardly have been easier. Simply whisking together sugar, rum, and cinnamon in the slow cooker and then nestling in the bananas kept prep time to a minimum. After cooking the fruit for an hour or so on high, we found we had partially caramelized bananas and the makings of a flavorful sauce. Whisking some butter into the cooking liquid gave us a rich emulsion, and a little lemon juice balanced the sweetness with some acidity. Look for yellow bananas with just a few spots; overripe bananas will fall apart during cooking. We prefer the flavor of gold rum, but you can substitute white or dark rum if desired. You will need an oval slow cooker for this recipe.
1. Lightly coat slow cooker with vegetable oil spray. Whisk sugar, rum, cinnamon, and salt in prepared slow cooker until sugar has dissolved. Nestle bananas cut side down into slow cooker. Cover and cook until skewer inserted into bananas meets little resistance, 1 to 2 hours on high. (Bananas can be held on warm or low setting for up to 1 hour.)
2. Using tongs and sturdy spatula, transfer bananas to individual bowls. Whisk butter and lemon juice into sauce until incorporated. Portion ice cream on top of bananas, spoon sauce over top, and sprinkle with pecans, if using. Serve.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 3 TO 4 HOURS ON LOW OR 2 TO 3 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Ideal for entertaining, this effortless yet brightly flavored compote takes a simple bowl of vanilla ice cream from ordinary to extraordinary. Frozen sliced peaches offer consistent quality, and so they guaranteed a compote that thickened to just the right texture with the help of a little tapioca. Raspberries, stirred in at the end, provided a lively, tart punch, and chopped mint added freshness. You do not need to thaw the peaches for this recipe.
1. Combine peaches, sugar, tapioca, lemon juice, vanilla, and salt in slow cooker. Cover and cook until peaches are tender and sauce is thickened, 3 to 4 hours on low or 2 to 3 hours on high. (Compote can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
2. Stir raspberries into compote and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in mint. Portion ice cream into individual bowls and spoon compote over top. Serve.
SERVES 6 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON HIGH
SLOW COOKER SIZE 4 TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS When developing this classic strawberry-rhubarb duo, we found that just a small amount of honey added to the slow cooker with the rhubarb provided a hint of sweetness and tamed the acidity in the rhubarb. It also thickened the fruit juice into a light syrup that was perfect for spooning over ice cream. For big, distinct strawberry flavor we stirred the berries in at the end, which also prevented them from turning to mush. To finish the compote we stirred in butter for richness.
1. Combine rhubarb, honey, water, vanilla, and salt in slow cooker. Cover and cook until rhubarb is softened and sauce is thickened, 1 to 2 hours on high. (Compote can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours.)
2. Stir strawberries and butter into compote and let sit until heated through, about 5 minutes. Portion ice cream into individual bowls and spoon compote over top. Serve.
PEELING RHUBARB
1. Trim ends of stalk. Slice thin disk from bottom, being careful not to cut through stalk. Gently pull partially attached disk away to peel off fibrous outer layers.
2. Working from bottom of stalk again, repeat in reverse direction to remove outer layers on opposite side.
Making this chocolate dipping sauce in a slow cooker is a party trick that should be in everyone’s repertoire.
SERVES 8 TO 10 EASY PREP
COOKING TIME 1 TO 2 HOURS ON LOW
SLOW COOKER SIZE 1½ TO 7 QUARTS
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS Dipping a fresh strawberry into warm melted chocolate is guaranteed to make just about anybody happy. For our version, we first chopped chocolate into small pieces before combining it with heavy cream and a pinch of salt. (Our recipe uses more chocolate than cream because it results in a thick, velvety fondue.) The chocolate melted gently as the cream heated, and after about an hour all we needed to do was whisk the steaming mixture until smooth. At this point the fondue was rich and thick. Adding a tablespoon of corn syrup made all the difference; the fondue became satiny—the perfect consistency for dipping—and retained a beautiful gloss. We found that semisweet chocolate produced both the most reliable consistency and the best flavor to pair with an array of accompaniments. We tested more than eight brands of semisweet chocolate (including chips), and they all worked fine, though there were minor flavor differences between brands. (Be sure to taste the chocolate before making the fondue to make sure you like its flavor.) By comparison, white, milk, and bittersweet chocolates were neither consistent nor liked by all tasters; we don’t recommend using them. For dipping, we like to use bite-size pieces of fruit, pound cake, or bread; make sure you have long skewers on hand to make things easy.
Combine all ingredients in slow cooker. Cover and cook until chocolate has melted and mixture is hot, 1 to 2 hours on low. Whisk chocolate mixture together until smooth and serve. (Fondue can be held on warm or low setting for up to 2 hours; adjust consistency with extra hot cream as needed.)
Analyzing recipes for their nutritional values is a tricky business, and we did our best to be as realistic and accurate as possible throughout this book. We were absolutely strict about measuring when cooking and never resorted to guessing or estimating. We also didn’t play games when analyzing the light recipes in the nutritional program to make the numbers look better. To calculate the nutritional values of our recipes per serving, we used The Food Processor SQL by ESHA Research. When using this program, we entered all the ingredients, using weights for important ingredients such as meat, cheese, and most vegetables. We also used all of our preferred brands in these analyses. When the recipe called for seasoning with an unspecified amount of salt and pepper (often raw meat), we added ½ teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of pepper to the analysis. We did not, however, include additional salt or pepper when the food was seasoned “to taste” at the end of cooking.
NOTE: Unless otherwise indicated, information applies to a single serving. If there is a range in the serving size in the recipe, we used the highest number of servings to calculate the nutritional values.
Some say cooking is a science and an art. We would say that geography has a hand in it, too. Flours and sugars manufactured in the United Kingdom and elsewhere will feel and taste different from those manufactured in the United States. So we cannot promise that the loaf of bread you bake in Canada or England will taste the same as a loaf baked in the States, but we can offer guidelines for converting weights and measures. We also recommend that you rely on your instincts when making our recipes. Refer to the visual cues provided. If the dough hasn’t “come together, in a ball” as described, you may need to add more flour—even if the recipe doesn’t tell you to. You be the judge.
The recipes in this book were developed using standard U.S. measures following U.S. government guidelines. The charts below offer equivalents for U.S. and metric measures. All conversions are approximate and have been rounded up or down to the nearest whole number.
EXAMPLE
| 1 teaspoon | = | 4.9292 milliliters, rounded up to 5 milliliters |
| 1 ounce | = | 28.3495 grams, rounded down to 28 grams |
| U.S. | METRIC |
| 1 teaspoon | 5 milliliters |
| 2 teaspoons | 10 milliliters |
| 1 tablespoon | 15 milliliters |
| 2 tablespoons | 30 milliliters |
| ¼ cup | 59 milliliters |
| ⅓ cup | 79 milliliters |
| ½ cup | 118 milliliters |
| ¾ cup | 177 milliliters |
| 1 cup | 237 milliliters |
| 1¼ cups | 296 milliliters |
| 1½ cups | 355 milliliters |
| 2 cups (1 pint) | 473 milliliters |
| 2½ cups | 591 milliliters |
| 3 cups | 710 milliliters |
| 4 cups (1 quart) | 0.946 liter |
| 1.06 quarts | 1 liter |
| 4 quarts (1 gallon) | 3.8 liters |
| OUNCES | GRAMS |
| ½ | 14 |
| ¾ | 21 |
| 1 | 28 |
| 1½ | 43 |
| 2 | 57 |
| 2½ | 71 |
| 3 | 85 |
| 3½ | 99 |
| 4 | 113 |
| 4½ | 128 |
| 5 | 142 |
| 6 | 170 |
| 7 | 198 |
| 8 | 227 |
| 9 | 255 |
| 10 | 283 |
| 12 | 340 |
| 16 (1 pound) | 454 |
Baking is an exacting science. Because measuring by weight is far more accurate than measuring by volume, and thus more likely to produce reliable results, in our recipes we provide ounce measures in addition to cup measures for many ingredients. Refer to the chart below to convert these measures into grams.
| INGREDIENT | OUNCES | GRAMS |
| Flour | ||
| 1 cup all-purpose flour* | 5 | 142 |
| 1 cup cake flour | 4 | 113 |
| 1 cup whole-wheat flour | 5½ | 156 |
| Sugar | ||
| 1 cup granulated (white) sugar | 7 | 198 |
| 1 cup packed brown sugar (light or dark) | 7 | 198 |
| 1 cup confectioners’ sugar | 4 | 113 |
| Cocoa Powder | ||
| 1 cup cocoa powder | 3 | 85 |
| Butter† | ||
| 4 tablespoons (½ stick, or ¼ cup) | 2 | 57 |
| 8 tablespoons (1 stick, or ½ cup) | 4 | 113 |
| 16 tablespoons (2 sticks, or 1 cup) | 8 | 227 |
*U.S. all-purpose flour, the most frequently used flour in this book, does not contain leaveners, as some European flours do. These leavened flours are called self-rising or self-raising. If you are using self-rising flour, take this into consideration before adding leavening to a recipe.
†In the United States, butter is sold both salted and unsalted. We generally recommend unsalted butter. If you are using salted butter, take this into consideration before adding salt to a recipe.
| FAHRENHEIT | CELSIUS | GAS MARK |
| 225 | 105 | ¼ |
| 250 | 120 | ½ |
| 275 | 135 | 1 |
| 300 | 150 | 2 |
| 325 | 165 | 3 |
| 350 | 180 | 4 |
| 375 | 190 | 5 |
| 400 | 200 | 6 |
| 425 | 220 | 7 |
| 450 | 230 | 8 |
| 475 | 245 | 9 |
We include doneness temperatures in many of the recipes in this book. We recommend an instant-read thermometer for the job. Refer to the above table to convert Fahrenheit degrees to Celsius. Or, for temperatures not represented in the chart, use this simple formula:
Subtract 32 degrees from the Fahrenheit reading, then divide the result by 1.8 to find the Celsius reading.
EXAMPLE
“Roast chicken until thighs register 175 degrees.”
To convert:
175˚F – 32 = 143˚
143˚ ÷ 1.8 = 79.44˚C, rounded down to 79˚C
Note: References in italics indicate photographs.
■ indicates easy prep
■ indicates vegetarian
■ indicates light
■ indicates all day
| A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H |
| I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P |
| Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | Y |
| Z |
Accompaniments
All-Purpose Chicken Broth ■, 2.1, 2.2
All-Purpose Tomato Sauce ■ ■ ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
All-Purpose Vegetable Broth ■ ■
Almond(s)
Middle Eastern Basmati Rice Pilaf ■ ■ ■
-Raisin Couscous, Spiced Pork Tenderloin with ■
-Raisin Granola ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
American cheese
Beer and Cheddar Fondue ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Anchovies
Arrabbiata Sauce ■ ■
Puttanesca Sauce ■ ■
Appetizers
Baked Brie with Figs, Walnuts, and Herbs ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Beef and Black Bean Taco Dip ■, 1.1, 1.2
Beer and Cheddar Fondue ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Buffalo Chicken Wings ■, 1.1, 1.2
Easy Spiced Nuts ■ ■ ■
Refried Bean Dip ■ ■
Rosemary and Garlic White Bean Dip ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Smoky Barbecue Chicken Wings ■
Spinach and Artichoke Dip ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Turkey-Pesto Cocktail Meatballs ■, 1.1, 1.2
Warm Marinated Artichoke Hearts ■ ■
Apple(s)
and Arugula, Beet and Wheat Berry Salad with ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
and Butternut Squash Soup, Creamy ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Curried Lentil Salad with Kale ■ ■
Stuffed, with Dried Cherries and Hazelnuts, 14.1, 14.2
Applesauce Spice Cake ■, 13.1, 14.1, 14.2
Apricots
Braised Pork Chops with Dried Fruit Compote ■ ■
Pork Loin with Warm Spiced Chickpea Salad ■, 5.1, 5.2
Arrabbiata Sauce ■ ■
Artichoke(s)
and Capers, Lemony Chicken with, 3.1, 3.2
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Hearts, Moroccan Fish Tagine with ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Arugula
and Apples, Beet and Wheat Berry Salad with ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Farro and Butternut Squash Stew ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 2.1
Asian-Style Braised Short Ribs ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Asparagus
and Mushrooms, Thai Chicken with ■
Avocado(s)
and Grapefruit Salsa, Poached Salmon with ■
Quinoa and Vegetable Stew ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Bacon
Lemon, and Thyme, Brussels Sprouts with ■, 12.1, 12.2
and Onions, Smothered Pork Chops with ■, 4.1, 4.2
Southern Chicken and Dirty Rice, 8.1, 8.2
Tuscan White Bean Soup ■ ■ ■
Baked Beans
Barbecued ■ ■
Country-Style ■ ■
Honey-Mustard ■ ■
Peach-Bourbon ■ ■
Baked Brie with Figs, Walnuts, and Herbs ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Baking vessels, for slow cookers
Balsamic-Fig Glazed Chicken Drumsticks ■, 3.1, 3.2
Barbecue Chicken Wings, Smoky ■
Barbecued Chicken Drumsticks ■
Barbecued Chicken Thighs, Chinese ■, 3.1, 3.2
Barbecued Pork, Chinese ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Barbecued Spareribs
Chinese ■ ■
Fiesta ■ ■
Spicy Mustard ■ ■
Sweet and Sour ■ ■
Barbecue-Rubbed Chicken in a Pot ■, 5.1, 5.2
Barbecue sauce, taste tests on
Barley
Pilaf, Herbed ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Pilaf, Spiced, with Dates and Parsley ■ ■ ■
Basil
and Sun-Dried Tomato Turkey Meatballs, 10.1, 10.2
Turkey-Pesto Cocktail Meatballs ■, 1.1, 1.2
Basmati Rice
Pilaf, Middle Eastern ■ ■ ■
Bean(s)
Baked
Barbecued ■ ■
Country-Style ■ ■
Honey-Mustard ■ ■
Peach-Bourbon ■ ■
Black
and Bulgur Bowls, Southwestern ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Quinoa, and Mango Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Salad, Spice-Rubbed Chicken with ■
Soup ■ ■ ■
Braised Chickpeas ■ ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Braised Kale and Chickpea Sauce, 10.1, 10.2
Campfire, Braised Pork Chops with ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
canned chickpeas, taste tests on
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
dried, adding directly to slow cooker
dried, sorting and rinsing, 2.1, 11.1
15-, Soup with Sausage and Spinach ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Indian-Style Vegetable Curry ■, 9.1, 9.2
and Lentil Salad, Southwestern ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Mediterranean Lentil Salad ■ ■
Mexican-Style ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Pork Loin with Warm Spiced Chickpea Salad ■, 5.1, 5.2
Red, and Rice Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Red, and Rice with Okra and Tomatoes ■ ■ ■ ■
Refried, Dip ■ ■
Roast Beef with Warm Garden Potato Salad, 5.1, 5.2
Spring Vegetable Chicken Soup ■
White
Braised, with Olive Oil and Sage ■ ■ ■
canned cannellini, taste tests on
Dip, Rosemary and Garlic ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
and Escarole Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Garden Minestrone ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Hearty Vegetarian Chili ■ ■ ■ ■
Italian Meatball and Escarole Soup ■
and Plantain Chili, Cuban ■ ■ ■
and Pork Casserole, Rustic ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
and Pork Stew with Kale ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Ragout, Braised Chicken Sausages with ■, 3.1, 3.2
and Sausage, Chicken Stew with, 2.1, 2.2
Soup, Tuscan ■ ■ ■
and Tomatoes, Braised Oxtails with ■, 4.1, 4.2
U.S. Senate Navy Bean Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
see also Green Beans
Bean sprouts
Beef
and Black Bean Taco Dip ■, 1.1, 1.2
Braised Steaks with Horseradish Smashed Potatoes ■ ■
Braised Steaks with Mushrooms and Onions ■, 4.1, 4.2
Brisket and Onions, Braised ■, 5.1, 5.2
broth, taste tests on, fm6.1, 2.1
Classic Pot Roast with Carrots and Potatoes ■, 5.1, 5.2
Corned, and Cabbage Dinner ■ ■, 5.1, 5.2
Corned, Hash with Poached Eggs, 13.1, 13.2
Italian Sunday Gravy ■, 10.1, 10.2
Korean Lettuce Wraps ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Meatballs and Marinara, 10.1, 10.2
Meatballs and Marinara for Two, 8.1, 8.2
Meatballs Florentine, 10.1, 10.2
Mexican Meatballs with Chorizo and Rice, 4.1, 4.2
and Noodle Soup, Vietnamese ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Oxtails, Braised, with White Beans and Tomatoes ■, 4.1, 4.2
Oxtail Soup, Hearty ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Roast, with Hearty Mushroom Gravy
Roast, with Warm Garden Potato Salad, 5.1, 5.2
roasts, cooking in slow cooker
Short Ribs
Asian-Style Braised ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
and Red Wine Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Rustic Italian Braised ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Shredded, Tacos with Cabbage-Carrot Slaw ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Stew
Burgundy ■
Catalan ■
Tex-Mex Stuffed Bell Peppers, 4.1, 4.2
see also Meatloaf mix
Beer
and Cheddar Fondue ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Beet(s)
with Oranges and Walnuts ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Red Flannel Hash with Poached Eggs ■, 13.1, 13.2
and Wheat Berry Salad with Arugula and Apples ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Berries
Blueberry Cornmeal Tea Cake, 14.1, 14.2
Braised Butternut Squash with Pecans and Cranberries ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
frozen versus fresh blueberries
Stuffed Acorn Squash ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Warm Peach-Raspberry Compote ■
Warm Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote ■
Wild Rice Pilaf with Cranberries and Pecans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Black Bean(s)
and Bulgur Bowls, Southwestern ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Quinoa, and Mango Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Salad, Spice-Rubbed Chicken with ■
Soup ■ ■ ■
Black-Eyed Pea Ragout, Chicken Thighs with ■
Blueberry(ies)
Cobbler ■
frozen versus fresh, for recipes
Boston Baked Beans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Boston Brown Bread ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Bouillabaisse, Chicken, 2.1, 2.2
Bourbon
Boursin cheese
Braised Artichokes ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Brisket and Onions ■, 5.1, 5.2
Braised Butternut Squash with Pecans and Cranberries ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Cauliflower with Lemon-Caper Dressing ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Chicken Sausages with White Bean Ragout ■, 3.1, 3.2
Braised Chicken Thighs with Garlicky Spinach ■, 8.1, 8.2
Braised Chickpeas ■ ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Braised Fennel and Turkey Sausage Sauce ■
Braised Fennel with Orange-Tarragon Dressing ■ ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Halibut with Leeks and Mustard ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Braised Kale, Fennel, and Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Braised Kale and Chickpea Sauce, 10.1, 10.2
Braised Kale with Garlic and Chorizo ■
Braised Lamb Shanks with Bell Peppers and Harissa ■, 4.1, 4.2
Braised Lentils with Escarole ■ ■
Braised Oxtails with White Beans and Tomatoes ■, 4.1, 4.2
Braised Pork Chops with Campfire Beans ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Braised Pork Chops with Dried Fruit Compote ■ ■
Braised Steaks with Horseradish Smashed Potatoes ■ ■
Braised Steaks with Mushrooms and Onions ■, 4.1, 4.2
Braised Swiss Chard with Shiitakes and Peanuts ■ ■ ■
Braised White Beans with Olive Oil and Sage ■ ■ ■
Braising liquids, making the most of
Brazilian Black Bean and Pork Stew ■
Bread Puddings
Leek, Bacon, and Goat Cheese Strata
Smoky Southwestern Strata, 13.1, 13.2
Breads
see also Tortilla(s)
Brie
Baked, with Figs, Walnuts, and Herbs ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Broccoli
Ricotta, and Egg Casseroles, Individual ■ ■
and Sun-Dried Tomato Lasagna ■
Broccolini and Chicken Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Broiler, finishing dishes under
Broth
beef, taste tests on, fm6.1, 2.1
Chicken, All-Purpose ■, 2.1, 2.2
chicken, taste tests on, fm6.1, 2.1
Brown Rice
with Parmesan and Herbs ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Salad, Chili-Garlic Glazed Salmon with ■, 6.1, 6.2
Brunch
Almond-Raisin Granola ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Boston Brown Bread ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Corned Beef Hash with Poached Eggs, 13.1, 13.2
Huevos Rancheros ■, 13.1, 13.2
Individual Ricotta, Broccoli, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■
Individual Ricotta, Spinach, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Irish Oatmeal ■ ■, 12.1, 13.1, 13.2
Leek, Bacon, and Goat Cheese Strata
Red Flannel Hash with Poached Eggs ■, 13.1, 13.2
Smoky Southwestern Strata, 13.1, 13.2
Brussels Sprouts
with Lemon, Thyme, and Bacon ■, 12.1, 12.2
Buffalo Chicken Wings ■, 1.1, 1.2
Bulgur
and Black Bean Bowls, Southwestern ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Greek Chicken with Warm Tabbouleh ■, 3.1, 3.2
Hearty Vegetarian Chili ■ ■ ■ ■
Salad, Spiced, Pork Tenderloin with ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Buttermilk
Smashed Red Potatoes ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Butternut Squash
and Apple Soup, Creamy ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Braised, with Pecans and Cranberries ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
and Farro Stew ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 2.1
and Spinach, Hearty Turkey Stew with ■, 8.1, 8.2
Thai Braised, with Tofu ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Cabbage
California-Style Fish Tacos ■, 6.1, 6.2
-Carrot Slaw, Shredded Beef Tacos with ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Chinese Chicken and Ramen Soup ■
and Corned Beef Dinner ■ ■, 5.1, 5.2
see also Kimchi
Cajun seasoning, taste tests on
Cajun Shrimp and Corn Chowder ■
Cakes
Applesauce Spice ■, 13.1, 14.1, 14.2
Blueberry Cornmeal Tea, 14.1, 14.2
Flourless Chocolate, 14.1, 14.2
Individual Lemon Pudding, 14.1, 14.2
California-Style Fish Tacos ■, 6.1, 6.2
Caper(s)
and Artichokes, Lemony Chicken with, 3.1, 3.2
-Lemon Dressing, Braised Cauliflower with ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Mediterranean Braised Green Beans ■ ■ ■
Puttanesca Sauce ■ ■
Relish, Poached Salmon with ■, 6.1, 6.2
Sicilian Fish Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Carrot(s)
-Cabbage Slaw, Shredded Beef Tacos with ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Corned Beef and Cabbage
Couscous, Spiced Chicken with ■
Creamy Farro with Swiss Chard ■ ■
Glazed ■ ■ ■
and Goat Cheese, Farro Risotto with ■ ■
Hearty Beef and Vegetable Pot Pie ■, 7.1, 7.2
Hearty Beef Oxtail Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
and Oranges, Wheat Berries with ■ ■ ■
and Potatoes, Classic Pot Roast with ■, 5.1, 5.2
and Potatoes, Orange-Tarragon Chicken with ■, 8.1, 8.2
Red Lentil Stew ■ ■
Rustic Pork and White Bean Casserole ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
Cauliflower
Braised, with Lemon-Caper Dressing ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Mashed ■ ■ ■ ■
and Pomegranate, Spiced Lentil Salad with ■ ■
Cheddar
Individual Ricotta, Broccoli, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■
Macaroni and Cheese ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
Scalloped Potatoes ■, 12.1, 12.2
Cheese
Baked Brie with Figs, Walnuts, and Herbs ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Beef and Black Bean Taco Dip ■, 1.1, 1.2
Beer and Cheddar Fondue ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Beet and Wheat Berry Salad with Arugula and Apples ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Braised Kale and Chickpea Sauce, 10.1, 10.2
Broccoli and Sun-Dried Tomato Lasagna ■
Brown Rice with Parmesan and Herbs ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Butternut Squash and Sage Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Butternut Squash Risotto ■, 11.1, 11.2
Chicken and Broccolini Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Chicken Enchiladas ■, 7.1, 7.2
Creamy Farro with Mushrooms and Thyme ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Creamy Orzo with Parmesan and Peas ■, 11.1, 11.2
Creamy Parmesan Polenta (stovetop)
Creamy Parmesan Polenta ■ ■ ■
Garlic and Parmesan Mashed Potatoes ■ ■
Goat, and Carrots, Farro Risotto with ■ ■
Greek Quinoa and Vegetable Lettuce Cups ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Huevos Rancheros ■, 13.1, 13.2
Individual Ricotta, Broccoli, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■
Individual Ricotta, Spinach, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Lemony Chicken and Rice with Spinach and Feta ■, 3.1, 3.2
Lentil Salad with Radishes, Cilantro, and Pepitas ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Macaroni and, Grown-Up, with Comté and Porcini ■ ■
Mediterranean Lentil Salad ■ ■
mozzarella, fresh versus supermarket
Mustard Greens and Sweet Potato Tacos ■, 9.1, 9.2
Quinoa and Vegetable Stew ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Refried Bean Dip ■ ■
Rustic Braised Lentils with Eggplant ■ ■
Salmon with Mediterranean White Rice Salad ■
Scalloped Potatoes ■, 12.1, 12.2
Shredded Beef Tacos with Cabbage-Carrot Slaw ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Shrimp with Spiced Quinoa and Corn Salad ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Smoky Southwestern Strata, 13.1, 13.2
Southwestern Black Bean and Bulgur Bowls ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Southwestern Lentil and Bean Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Stuffed Acorn Squash ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Stuffed Sole with Creamy Tomato Sauce, 6.1, 6.2
Stuffed Spiced Eggplants with Tomatoes and Pine Nuts ■, 9.1, 9.2
Tex-Mex Stuffed Bell Peppers, 4.1, 4.2
Unstuffed Chicken Cordon Bleu ■, 3.1, 3.2
Warm Marinated Artichoke Hearts ■ ■
see also Cream cheese
Cheesecakes
Cherry(ies)
Braised Pork Chops with Dried Fruit Compote ■ ■
Dried, and Hazelnuts, Stuffed Apples with, 14.1, 14.2
-Orange Sauce, Turkey Breast with ■ ■
and White Chocolate Bread Pudding
Chicken
Adobo ■ ■
boneless, skinless breasts, buying
and Broccolini Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Broth, All-Purpose ■, 2.1, 2.2
broth and stock, taste tests on
Cordon Bleu, Unstuffed ■, 3.1, 3.2
Cranberry-Orange ■ ■
and Dirty Rice, Southern, 8.1, 8.2
Drumsticks, Fig-Balsamic Glazed ■, 3.1, 3.2
and Dumplings, Old-Fashioned, 7.1, 7.2
with Fennel and Tomato Couscous ■, 3.1, 3.2
and Garden Vegetable Soup ■, 8.1, 8.2
Greek, with Warm Tabbouleh ■, 3.1, 3.2
Herbed, with Warm Spring Vegetable Salad ■, 5.1, 5.2
Latin, with Tomatoes and Olives ■ ■
Lemony, with Artichokes and Capers, 3.1, 3.2
with Mushrooms and Tarragon Cream Sauce, 3.1, 3.2
and Mushroom Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Noodle Soup, Old-Fashioned ■, 2.1, 2.2
Orange-Tarragon, with Potatoes and Carrots ■, 8.1, 8.2
in a Pot
Pesto ■
and Potatoes, Mediterranean, 3.1, 3.2
Provençal ■ ■
Pulled, Sweet and Tangy ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
and Rice, Lemony, with Spinach and Feta ■, 3.1, 3.2
Sesame-Ginger, and Sweet Potatoes
Spiced, with Carrot Couscous ■
Spice-Rubbed, with Black Bean Salad ■
Stew with Sausage and White Beans, 2.1, 2.2
and Sweet Potatoes, Spicy Peruvian
Thai, with Asparagus and Mushrooms ■
Thai, with Coconut Curry Sauce ■ ■
Thighs
Braised, with Garlicky Spinach ■, 8.1, 8.2
Curried, with Acorn Squash ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Kimchi-Braised ■ ■
with Swiss Chard and Mustard ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Tomatillo Soft Tacos ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
whole
Wings
Korean ■
Chicken Sausages
Braised, with White Bean Ragout ■, 3.1, 3.2
and Spinach, 15-Bean Soup with ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Chickpea(s)
and Braised Kale Sauce, 10.1, 10.2
Mediterranean Lentil Salad ■ ■
Salad, Warm Spiced, Pork Loin with ■, 5.1, 5.2
Chile(s)
Black Bean Chili for Two ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Black Bean Chili ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Chipotle, Sauce, Creamy, Poached Salmon with ■
Fiesta Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
Mexican Rice ■ ■
No-Fuss Quinoa with Corn and Jalapeño ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Shredded Beef Tacos with Cabbage-Carrot Slaw ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Spanish Braised Shrimp and Chorizo ■ ■
Spicy Chipotle Chicken Noodle Soup ■
Spicy Peruvian Chicken and Sweet Potatoes
Tomatillo Chicken Soft Tacos ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Tomatillo Chili with Pork and Hominy ■, 2.1, 2.2
Chili
Black Bean, for Two ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Cuban White Bean and Plantain ■ ■ ■
Hearty Vegetarian ■ ■ ■ ■
Pork, New Mexican Red ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Texas ■
Tomatillo, with Pork and Hominy ■, 2.1, 2.2
Chili-Garlic Glazed Salmon with Brown Rice Salad ■, 6.1, 6.2
Chinese Barbecued Chicken Thighs ■, 3.1, 3.2
Chinese Barbecued Pork ■, 4.1, 4.2
Chinese Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
Chinese Chicken and Ramen Soup ■
Chocolate
Nutella Bread Pudding, 14.1, 14.2
White, and Cherry Bread Pudding
Chowder
Cider-Braised Pork Roast ■, 5.1, 5.2
Cilantro
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Quinoa, Black Bean, and Mango Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Radishes, and Pepitas, Lentil Salad with ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Southwestern Lentil and Bean Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Yogurt Sauce for Mushroom Biryani, 9.1, 9.2
Cinnamon
Easy Spiced Nuts ■ ■ ■
Citrus
see also specific citrus fruits
Clam Chowder, Manhattan ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Clam juice, taste tests on, fm6.1, 2.1
Classic Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Classic Bread Pudding, 14.1, 14.2
Classic Marinara Sauce ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Classic Mashed Potatoes (Stovetop)
Classic Mashed Potatoes ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Classic Pot Roast with Carrots and Potatoes ■, 5.1, 5.2
Coconut
Curry Sauce, Thai Chicken with ■ ■
unsweetened shredded, taste tests on
Cod
Fisherman’s Stew ■ ■
Moroccan Fish Tagine with Artichoke Hearts ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
in Saffron Broth with Chorizo and Potatoes
Spanish Seafood Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Collard Greens
Southern Braised ■ ■
Comfort foods
Broccoli and Sun-Dried Tomato Lasagna ■
Chicken Enchiladas ■, 7.1, 7.2
Grown-Up Macaroni and Cheese with Comté and Porcini ■ ■
Hearty Beef and Vegetable Pot Pie ■, 7.1, 7.2
Macaroni and Cheese ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
Old-Fashioned Chicken and Dumplings, 7.1, 7.2
Rustic Pork and White Bean Casserole ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
Compotes
Comté and Porcini, Grown-Up Macaroni and Cheese with ■ ■
Corn
Creamed ■ ■
Cuban White Bean and Plantain Chili ■ ■ ■
and Jalapeño, No-Fuss Quinoa with ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
and Potatoes, Shrimp Boil with ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Quinoa and Vegetable Stew ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
and Quinoa Salad, Spiced, Shrimp with ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Southwestern Lentil and Bean Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Black Bean Salad ■
Spicy Chipotle Chicken Noodle Soup ■
Tex-Mex Stuffed Bell Peppers, 4.1, 4.2
Corned Beef and Cabbage Dinner ■ ■, 5.1, 5.2
Corned Beef Hash with Poached Eggs, 13.1, 13.2
Cornmeal
Blueberry Tea Cake, 14.1, 14.2
Boston Brown Bread ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Creamy Parmesan Polenta (stovetop)
Creamy Parmesan Polenta ■ ■ ■
Cotija cheese
Shrimp with Spiced Quinoa and Corn Salad ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Couscous
Fennel and Tomato, Chicken with ■, 3.1, 3.2
Raisin-Almond, Spiced Pork Tenderloin with ■
Crab
Cranberry(ies)
-Orange Chicken ■ ■
and Pecans, Braised Butternut Squash with ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
and Pecans, Wild Rice Pilaf with ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Stuffed Acorn Squash ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Cream cheese
Beer and Cheddar Fondue ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Rich and Creamy Cheesecake, 14.1, 14.2
Spinach and Artichoke Dip ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Creamed Corn ■ ■
Creamy Butternut Squash and Apple Soup ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Creamy Farro with Mushrooms and Thyme ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Creamy Farro with Swiss Chard ■ ■
Creamy Orzo with Parmesan and Peas ■, 11.1, 11.2
Creamy Parmesan Polenta (stovetop)
Creamy Parmesan Polenta ■ ■ ■
Creamy Tomato Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Creole seasoning, taste tests on
Crisps
Croutons
Cuban Pork Roast with Mojo Sauce ■, 5.1, 5.2
Cuban-Style Black Beans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Cuban White Bean and Plantain Chili ■ ■ ■
Currants
Middle Eastern Basmati Rice Pilaf ■ ■ ■
Curried dishes
Curried Chicken and Couscous Soup ■
Curried Chicken Thighs with Acorn Squash ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Curried Lentil Salad with Kale ■ ■
Indian-Style Vegetable Curry ■, 9.1, 9.2
Thai Braised Butternut Squash with Tofu ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Thai Chicken and Coconut Soup ■
Thai Chicken with Asparagus and Mushrooms ■
Thai Chicken with Coconut Curry Sauce ■ ■
Thai Green Curry with Shrimp and Sweet Potatoes ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Custards
Dates
Moroccan Lentil Soup with Mustard Greens ■ ■ ■ ■
and Parsley, Spiced Barley Pilaf with ■ ■ ■
Desserts
Applesauce Spice Cake ■, 13.1, 14.1, 14.2
Blueberry Cornmeal Tea Cake, 14.1, 14.2
Chocolate Fondue ■, 14.1, 14.2
Chocolate Pudding Cake, 14.1, 14.2
Chocolate Snack Cake, 14.1, 14.2
Flourless Chocolate Cake, 14.1, 14.2
Individual Chocolate Fudge Cakes
Individual Lemon Pudding Cakes, 14.1, 14.2
Nutella Bread Pudding, 14.1, 14.2
Rich and Creamy Cheesecake, 14.1, 14.2
Stuffed Apples with Dried Cherries and Hazelnuts, 14.1, 14.2
Tea-Poached Pears ■, 14.1, 14.2
Warm Peach-Raspberry Compote ■
Warm Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote ■
White Chocolate and Cherry Bread Pudding
Dill, Spinach, and Orange, Lentil Salad with ■ ■
Dinner for Two
Asian-Style Braised Short Ribs ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Black Bean Chili for Two ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Braised Chicken Thighs with Garlicky Spinach ■, 8.1, 8.2
Braised Halibut with Leeks and Mustard ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Chicken and Garden Vegetable Soup ■, 8.1, 8.2
Cod in Saffron Broth with Chorizo and Potatoes
Creamy Butternut Squash and Apple Soup ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Creamy Farro with Swiss Chard ■ ■
Easy Cherry Tomato Pasta Sauce ■ ■ ■ ■
Hearty Turkey Stew with Squash and Spinach ■, 8.1, 8.2
Meatballs and Marinara for Two, 8.1, 8.2
Orange-Tarragon Chicken with Potatoes and Carrots ■, 8.1, 8.2
Pork Tenderloin with Spiced Bulgur Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Red Lentil Stew ■ ■
Smothered Pork Chops with Apples
Southern Chicken and Dirty Rice, 8.1, 8.2
Southwestern Lentil and Bean Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Stuffed Acorn Squash ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Sweet and Sour Sticky Ribs ■, 8.1, 8.2
Thai Chicken with Coconut Curry Sauce ■ ■
Dips
Beef and Black Bean Taco ■, 1.1, 1.2
Beer and Cheddar Fondue ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Chocolate Fondue ■, 14.1, 14.2
Refried Bean ■ ■
Rosemary and Garlic White Bean ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Spinach and Artichoke ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Dumplings, Old-Fashioned Chicken and, 7.1, 7.2
Easy Baked Potatoes ■ ■, 11.1, 12.1
Easy Spiced Nuts ■ ■ ■
Eggplant(s)
Herbed Pork Tenderloin with Ratatouille ■
Italian Vegetable Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Rustic Braised Lentils with ■ ■
Stuffed Spiced, with Tomatoes and Pine Nuts ■, 9.1, 9.2
Egg(s)
Huevos Rancheros ■, 13.1, 13.2
Poached, Corned Beef Hash with, 13.1, 13.2
Poached, Red Flannel Hash with ■, 13.1, 13.2
Ricotta, and Broccoli Casseroles, Individual ■ ■
Ricotta, and Spinach Casseroles, Individual ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Enchiladas, Chicken ■, 7.1, 7.2
Escarole
and White Bean Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Farro
and Butternut Squash Stew ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 2.1
Creamy, with Mushrooms and Thyme ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Risotto with Carrots and Goat Cheese ■ ■
Fennel
Braised, and Turkey Sausage Sauce ■
Braised, Kale, and Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Braised, with Orange-Tarragon Dressing ■ ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Mediterranean Chicken and Potatoes, 3.1, 3.2
Oranges, and Olives, Pork Loin with ■, 5.1, 5.2
and Tomato Couscous, Chicken with ■, 3.1, 3.2
Feta
Greek Quinoa and Vegetable Lettuce Cups ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Mediterranean Lentil Salad ■ ■
Rustic Braised Lentils with Eggplant ■ ■
Salmon with Mediterranean White Rice Salad ■
and Spinach, Lemony Chicken and Rice with ■, 3.1, 3.2
Warm Marinated Artichoke Hearts ■ ■
Fiesta Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
15-Bean Soup with Sausage and Spinach ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Fig(s)
-Balsamic Glazed Chicken Drumsticks ■, 3.1, 3.2
Dried, Compote, Pork Loin with ■
Walnuts, and Herbs, Baked Brie with ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Fish
Braised Halibut with Leeks and Mustard ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Chili-Garlic Glazed Salmon with Brown Rice Salad ■, 6.1, 6.2
Cod in Saffron Broth with Chorizo and Potatoes
Fisherman’s Stew ■ ■
Halibut with Warm Bean Salad ■ ■
with Avocado and Grapefruit Salsa ■
with Creamy Chipotle Chile Sauce ■
with Tangerine and Ginger Salsa ■
Poached Swordfish with Papaya Salsa ■ ■
Poached Swordfish with Warm Tomato and Olive Relish ■, 6.1, 6.2
Salmon with Mediterranean White Rice Salad ■
Spanish Seafood Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Stuffed Sole with Creamy Tomato Sauce, 6.1, 6.2
Tacos, California-Style ■, 6.1, 6.2
Tagine, Moroccan, with Artichoke Hearts ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
see also Anchovies
Fisherman’s Stew ■ ■
Flourless Chocolate Cake, 14.1, 14.2
Foil collars, for slow cookers, fm6.1, 7.1
Foil packets, for slow cookers, fm6.1, 2.1
Foil racks, for slow cookers, fm6.1, 14.1
Foil slings, for slow cookers, fm6.1, fm6.2, 6.1
Fondue
Beer and Cheddar ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Fontina cheese
Individual Ricotta, Spinach, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
French Chicken and Warm Potato Salad
Fruit
see also specific fruits
Garam masala
Chicken Tikka Masala ■, 3.1, 3.2
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Moroccan Fish Tagine with Artichoke Hearts ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Spiced Chicken with Carrot Couscous ■
Garden Minestrone ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Garlic
Braised Chicken Thighs with Garlicky Spinach ■, 8.1, 8.2
and Chorizo, Braised Kale with ■
and Parmesan Mashed Potatoes ■ ■
“Roasted,” Sauce, Chicken with ■
and Rosemary, Red Potatoes with ■ ■
and Rosemary White Bean Dip ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Ginger
Easy Spiced Nuts ■ ■ ■
-Sesame Chicken and Sweet Potatoes
and Tangerine Salsa, Poached Salmon with ■
Glazed Carrots ■ ■ ■
Goat Cheese
Beet and Wheat Berry Salad with Arugula and Apples ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
and Carrots, Farro Risotto with ■ ■
Stuffed Acorn Squash ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Graham cracker crumbs
Rich and Creamy Cheesecake, 14.1, 14.2
Grains
Almond-Raisin Granola ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Beef and Barley Soup ■, 2.1, 2.2
Beet and Wheat Berry Salad with Arugula and Apples ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Blueberry Cornmeal Tea Cake, 14.1, 14.2
Boston Brown Bread ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Creamy Farro with Mushrooms and Thyme ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Creamy Farro with Swiss Chard ■ ■
Creamy Parmesan Polenta (stovetop)
Creamy Parmesan Polenta ■ ■ ■
Farro and Butternut Squash Stew ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 2.1
Farro Risotto with Carrots and Goat Cheese ■ ■
Greek Chicken with Warm Tabbouleh ■, 3.1, 3.2
Greek Quinoa and Vegetable Lettuce Cups ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Hearty Vegetarian Chili ■ ■ ■ ■
Herbed Barley Pilaf ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Irish Oatmeal ■ ■, 12.1, 13.1, 13.2
No-Fuss Quinoa with Corn and Jalapeño ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
No-Fuss Quinoa with Lemon ■ ■ ■
Pork Tenderloin with Spiced Bulgur Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Quinoa, Black Bean, and Mango Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Quinoa and Vegetable Stew ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Shrimp with Spiced Quinoa and Corn Salad ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Southwestern Black Bean and Bulgur Bowls ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Spiced Barley Pilaf with Dates and Parsley ■ ■ ■
steel-cut oats, taste tests on
Stuffed Acorn Squash ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Summer Barley Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Wheat Berries with Carrots and Oranges ■ ■ ■
Wheat Berry and Wild Mushroom Stew ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
see also Rice
Granola, Almond-Raisin ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Grapefruit and Avocado Salsa, Poached Salmon with ■
Gravy
Mushroom, Hearty, Roast Beef with
Turkey Breast with ■, 5.1, 5.2
Greek Chicken with Warm Tabbouleh ■, 3.1, 3.2
Greek Quinoa and Vegetable Lettuce Cups ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Green Beans
Halibut with Warm Bean Salad ■ ■
Indian-Style Vegetable Curry ■, 9.1, 9.2
Mediterranean Braised ■ ■ ■
Roast Beef with Warm Garden Potato Salad, 5.1, 5.2
Greens
Beet and Wheat Berry Salad with Arugula and Apples ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Braised Kale, Fennel, and Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Braised Kale and Chickpea Sauce, 10.1, 10.2
Braised Kale with Garlic and Chorizo ■
Braised Lentils with Escarole ■ ■
Braised Swiss Chard with Shiitakes and Peanuts ■ ■ ■
Chicken Thighs with Black-Eyed Pea Ragout ■
Chicken Thighs with Swiss Chard and Mustard ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Creamy Farro with Swiss Chard ■ ■
Curried Chicken and Couscous Soup ■
Curried Lentil Salad with Kale ■ ■
Escarole and White Bean Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Farro and Butternut Squash Stew ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 2.1
Garden Minestrone ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Greek Quinoa and Vegetable Lettuce Cups ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Hearty Turkey and Vegetable Soup ■ ■
Italian Meatball and Escarole Soup ■
Korean Lettuce Wraps ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Mustard, and Sweet Potato Tacos ■, 9.1, 9.2
Mustard, Moroccan Lentil Soup with ■ ■ ■ ■
Pork and White Bean Stew with Kale ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Portuguese Potato and Kale Soup ■, 2.1, 2.2
Rustic Sausage, Lentil, and Swiss Chard Sauce ■
see also Spinach
Grown-Up Macaroni and Cheese with Comté and Porcini ■ ■
Gruyère
Halibut
Braised, with Leeks and Mustard ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
California-Style Fish Tacos ■, 6.1, 6.2
Ham
Black Bean Soup ■ ■ ■
Cuban-Style Black Beans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
North Carolina Pulled Pork ■ ■
Southern Braised Collard Greens ■ ■
Unstuffed Chicken Cordon Bleu ■, 3.1, 3.2
U.S. Senate Navy Bean Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Harissa
and Bell Peppers, Braised Lamb Shanks with ■, 4.1, 4.2
Hash
Corned Beef, with Poached Eggs, 13.1, 13.2
Red Flannel, with Poached Eggs ■, 13.1, 13.2
Hazelnuts
and Dried Cherries, Stuffed Apples with, 14.1, 14.2
Maple-Orange Glazed Acorn Squash ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Hearty Beef and Vegetable Pot Pie ■, 7.1, 7.2
Hearty Beef Oxtail Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Hearty Turkey and Vegetable Soup ■ ■
Hearty Turkey Stew with Squash and Spinach ■, 8.1, 8.2
Hearty Vegetarian Chili ■ ■ ■ ■
Herbed Barley Pilaf ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Herbed Chicken with Warm Spring Vegetable Salad ■, 5.1, 5.2
Herbed Pork Tenderloin with Ratatouille ■
Herbs
and Parmesan, Brown Rice with ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
see also specific herbs
Hominy
and Pork, Tomatillo Chili with ■, 2.1, 2.2
Honey
Horseradish Smashed Potatoes, Braised Steaks with ■ ■
Huevos Rancheros ■, 13.1, 13.2
Ice cream
Warm Peach-Raspberry Compote ■
Warm Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote ■
Indian-Style Vegetable Curry ■, 9.1, 9.2
Individual Chocolate Fudge Cakes
Individual Lemon Pudding Cakes, 14.1, 14.2
Individual Ricotta, Broccoli, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■
Individual Ricotta, Spinach, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Ingredients, tastings of
Louisiana (Cajun or Creole) seasoning
supermarket extra-virgin olive oil
Irish Oatmeal ■ ■, 12.1, 13.1, 13.2
Italian Braised Beef Short Ribs, Rustic ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Italian Braised Turkey Sausages ■
Italian Meatball and Escarole Soup ■
Italian Sunday Gravy ■, 10.1, 10.2
Italian Vegetable Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Japanese Pork and Ramen Soup ■
Kale
Braised, and Chickpea Sauce, 10.1, 10.2
Braised, Fennel, and Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Braised, with Garlic and Chorizo ■
Chicken Thighs with Black-Eyed Pea Ragout ■
Pork and White Bean Stew with ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
and Potato Soup, Portuguese ■, 2.1, 2.2
Kimchi
Korean Lettuce Wraps ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Lamb
Shanks, Braised, with Bell Peppers and Harissa ■, 4.1, 4.2
Lasagna
Broccoli and Sun-Dried Tomato ■
Latin Chicken with Tomatoes and Olives ■ ■
Leek(s)
Creamy Braised, Scallops with ■ ■
Hearty Turkey and Vegetable Soup ■ ■
and Mustard, Braised Halibut with ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Lemon(s)
-Caper Dressing, Braised Cauliflower with ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
-Herb Fingerling Potatoes ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
No-Fuss Quinoa with ■ ■ ■
Pudding Cakes, Individual, 14.1, 14.2
-Rosemary Chicken and Potatoes
Thyme, and Bacon, Brussels Sprouts with ■, 12.1, 12.2
Lemony Chicken and Rice with Spinach and Feta ■, 3.1, 3.2
Lemony Chicken with Artichokes and Capers, 3.1, 3.2
Lentil(s)
and Bean Salad, Southwestern ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
French, Stew ■ ■
Red, Stew ■ ■
Rustic Braised, with Eggplant ■ ■
Salad
with Dill, Orange, and Spinach ■ ■
Mediterranean ■ ■
with Radishes, Cilantro, and Pepitas ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Spiced, with Cauliflower and Pomegranate ■ ■
Sausage, and Swiss Chard Sauce, Rustic ■
Lettuce
Cups, Greek Quinoa and Vegetable ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Lime(s)
Louisiana seasoning, taste tests on
Macaroni and Cheese, Grown-Up, with Comté and Porcini ■ ■
Macaroni and Cheese ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
Mango
Quinoa, and Black Bean Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Maple
-Orange Glazed Acorn Squash ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Mashed Cauliflower ■ ■ ■ ■
Mashed Potatoes
Loaded ■
Mashed Sweet Potatoes ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Meat
braising liquids, making the most of
browning, before placing in slow cooker, fm6.1, fm6.2
roasts, cooking in slow cooker
roasts, positioning in slow cooker
see also Beef; Lamb; Meatloaf mix; Pork; Veal
Meatball(s)
and Marinara for Two, 8.1, 8.2
Mexican, with Chorizo and Rice, 4.1, 4.2
Turkey, Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil, 10.1, 10.2
Turkey-Pesto Cocktail ■, 1.1, 1.2
Meatloaf
Turkey ■
Meatloaf mix
Mediterranean Braised Green Beans ■ ■ ■
Mediterranean Chicken and Potatoes, 3.1, 3.2
Mediterranean Lentil Salad ■ ■
Mexican Meatballs with Chorizo and Rice, 4.1, 4.2
Mexican Rice ■ ■
Mexican-Style Beans ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Middle Eastern Basmati Rice Pilaf ■ ■ ■
Minestrone, Garden ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Mint
Pork Tenderloin with Spiced Bulgur Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Yogurt Sauce for Mushroom Biryani, 9.1, 9.2
Miso
Soup with Shiitakes and Sweet Potatoes ■ ■ ■
Monterey Jack cheese
Beef and Black Bean Taco Dip ■, 1.1, 1.2
Chicken Enchiladas ■, 7.1, 7.2
Grown-Up Macaroni and Cheese with Comté and Porcini ■ ■
Macaroni and Cheese ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
Refried Bean Dip ■ ■
Scalloped Potatoes ■, 12.1, 12.2
Tex-Mex Stuffed Bell Peppers, 4.1, 4.2
Moroccan Fish Tagine with Artichoke Hearts ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Moroccan Lentil Soup with Mustard Greens ■ ■ ■ ■
Mozzarella
Broccoli and Sun-Dried Tomato Lasagna ■
Mushroom(s)
and Asparagus, Thai Chicken with ■
Black Bean Chili for Two ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Black Bean Chili ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Braised Swiss Chard with Shiitakes and Peanuts ■ ■ ■
and Chicken Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Farro and Butternut Squash Stew ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 2.1
Gravy, Hearty, Roast Beef with
Grown-Up Macaroni and Cheese with Comté and Porcini ■ ■
Hearty Beef and Vegetable Pot Pie ■, 7.1, 7.2
Japanese Pork and Ramen Soup ■
Miso Soup with Shiitakes and Sweet Potatoes ■ ■ ■
and Onions, Braised Steaks with ■, 4.1, 4.2
Spicy Thai Shrimp Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
and Tarragon Cream Sauce, Chicken with, 3.1, 3.2
and Thyme, Creamy Farro with ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Warm Marinated ■ ■
Wild, and Wheat Berry Stew ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Mustard
Barbecued Spareribs, Spicy ■ ■
and Leeks, Braised Halibut with ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
and Swiss Chard, Chicken Thighs with ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Mustard Greens
Moroccan Lentil Soup with ■ ■ ■ ■
and Sweet Potato Tacos ■, 9.1, 9.2
New Mexican Red Pork Chili ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
No-Fuss Quinoa with Corn and Jalapeño ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
No-Fuss Quinoa with Lemon ■ ■ ■
Noodle(s)
and Beef Soup, Vietnamese ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Chicken Soup, Old-Fashioned ■, 2.1, 2.2
Chicken Soup, Spicy Chipotle ■
Chinese Chicken and Ramen Soup ■
Japanese Pork and Ramen Soup ■
North Carolina Pulled Pork ■ ■
Nutella Bread Pudding, 14.1, 14.2
Nuts
Baked Brie with Figs, Walnuts, and Herbs ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Beets with Oranges and Walnuts ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Butternut Squash with Pecans and Cranberries ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Kale, Fennel, and Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Braised Swiss Chard with Shiitakes and Peanuts ■ ■ ■
Easy Spiced ■ ■ ■
hazelnuts, skinning, 1.1, 12.1
Maple-Orange Glazed Acorn Squash ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Pine, and Tomatoes, Stuffed Spiced Eggplants with ■, 9.1, 9.2
Sicilian Fish Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Stuffed Apples with Dried Cherries and Hazelnuts, 14.1, 14.2
Thai Braised Butternut Squash with Tofu ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Wild Rice Pilaf with Cranberries and Pecans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
see also Almond(s)
Oat(s)
Almond-Raisin Granola ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Irish Oatmeal ■ ■, 12.1, 13.1, 13.2
Okra and Tomatoes, Red Beans and Rice with ■ ■ ■ ■
Old-Fashioned Chicken and Dumplings, 7.1, 7.2
Old-Fashioned Chicken Noodle Soup ■, 2.1, 2.2
Olive Oil
Slow-Cooked Tomatoes with ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
supermarket extra-virgin, taste tests on
Olive(s)
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Fennel, and Oranges, Pork Loin with ■, 5.1, 5.2
Mediterranean Chicken and Potatoes, 3.1, 3.2
Moroccan Fish Tagine with Artichoke Hearts ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Puttanesca Sauce ■ ■
and Tomatoes, Latin Chicken with ■ ■
and Tomato Relish, Warm, Poached Swordfish with ■, 6.1, 6.2
Warm Marinated Artichoke Hearts ■ ■
Onion(s)
and Bacon, Smothered Pork Chops with ■, 4.1, 4.2
and Brisket, Braised ■, 5.1, 5.2
and Mushrooms, Braised Steaks with ■, 4.1, 4.2
and Peppers, Street Fair Sausages with ■, 4.1, 4.2
Orange(s)
and Carrots, Wheat Berries with ■ ■ ■
-Cherry Sauce, Turkey Breast with ■ ■
Chili-Garlic Glazed Salmon with Brown Rice Salad ■, 6.1, 6.2
Dill, and Spinach, Lentil Salad with ■ ■
Fennel, and Olives, Pork Loin with ■, 5.1, 5.2
-Maple Glazed Acorn Squash ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Mediterranean Chicken and Potatoes, 3.1, 3.2
-Tarragon Chicken with Potatoes and Carrots ■, 8.1, 8.2
-Tarragon Dressing, Braised Fennel with ■ ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
and Walnuts, Beets with ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Pancetta
Tuscan White Bean Soup ■ ■ ■
Papaya
Salsa, Poached Swordfish with ■ ■
Spicy Thai Shrimp Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Paprika
Parchment shield, creating, fm6.1, 6.1
Parmesan
Braised Kale and Chickpea Sauce, 10.1, 10.2
Broccoli and Sun-Dried Tomato Lasagna ■
Butternut Squash and Sage Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Butternut Squash Risotto ■, 11.1, 11.2
Chicken and Broccolini Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Creamy Farro with Mushrooms and Thyme ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
and Garlic Mashed Potatoes ■ ■
and Herbs, Brown Rice with ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
and Peas, Creamy Orzo with ■, 11.1, 11.2
Polenta, Creamy ■ ■ ■
Risotto ■
Parsley
and Dates, Spiced Barley Pilaf with ■ ■ ■
Greek Chicken with Warm Tabbouleh ■, 3.1, 3.2
Lemon-Herb Fingerling Potatoes ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Mediterranean Lentil Salad ■ ■
Summer Barley Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Parsnips
Hearty Beef Oxtail Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Mashed Potatoes and Root Vegetables ■ ■
Rustic Pork and White Bean Casserole ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
Pasta
Broccoli and Sun-Dried Tomato Lasagna ■
Creamy Orzo with Parmesan and Peas ■, 11.1, 11.2
Garden Minestrone ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Grown-Up Macaroni and Cheese with Comté and Porcini ■ ■
Hearty Turkey and Vegetable Soup ■ ■
Macaroni and Cheese ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
raw, toasting, for slow cooker recipes, fm6.1, 7.1
Sauce, Easy Cherry Tomato ■ ■ ■ ■
Spring Vegetable Chicken Soup ■
Pasta sauces
Amatriciana ■ ■
Arrabbiata ■ ■
Beef Ragu with Warm Spices ■ ■
Braised Fennel and Turkey Sausage ■
Braised Kale, Fennel, and Sun-Dried Tomato ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Braised Kale and Chickpea, 10.1, 10.2
Butternut Squash and Sage ■, 10.1, 10.2
Cherry Tomato, Easy ■ ■ ■ ■
Chicken and Broccolini ■, 10.1, 10.2
Chicken and Mushroom ■, 10.1, 10.2
Escarole and White Bean ■, 10.1, 10.2
Italian Sunday Gravy ■, 10.1, 10.2
Marinara, Classic ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Meatballs and Marinara, 10.1, 10.2
Meatballs and Marinara for Two, 8.1, 8.2
Meatballs Florentine, 10.1, 10.2
Mushroom Bolognese ■ ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Puttanesca ■ ■
Sausage, Lentil, and Swiss Chard, Rustic ■
Sausage Ragu with Red Peppers ■, 10.1, 10.2
Short Ribs and Red Wine ■, 10.1, 10.2
Shrimp Fra Diavolo ■ ■ ■
Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil Turkey Meatballs, 10.1, 10.2
Tomato, All-Purpose ■ ■ ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Tomato, Meaty ■ ■
Vodka Cream ■ ■
Peach
Peanut butter
Peanuts
and Shiitakes, Braised Swiss Chard with ■ ■ ■
Thai Braised Butternut Squash with Tofu ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Pears
Pea(s)
Black-Eyed, Ragout, Chicken Thighs with ■
Chicken and Garden Vegetable Soup ■, 8.1, 8.2
Hearty Beef and Vegetable Pot Pie ■, 7.1, 7.2
Herbed Chicken with Warm Spring Vegetable Salad ■, 5.1, 5.2
Lemon-Rosemary Chicken and Potatoes
Old-Fashioned Chicken and Dumplings, 7.1, 7.2
and Parmesan, Creamy Orzo with ■, 11.1, 11.2
Quinoa and Vegetable Stew ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Red Lentil Stew ■ ■
Split, Soup ■ ■
Thai Green Curry with Shrimp and Sweet Potatoes ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Pecans
and Cranberries, Braised Butternut Squash with ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
and Cranberries, Wild Rice Pilaf with ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Pecorino Romano
Stuffed Spiced Eggplants with Tomatoes and Pine Nuts ■, 9.1, 9.2
Pepper Jack cheese
Huevos Rancheros ■, 13.1, 13.2
Smoky Southwestern Strata, 13.1, 13.2
Pepperoni
Pepper(s)
Bell, and Harissa, Braised Lamb Shanks with ■, 4.1, 4.2
Bell, Tex-Mex Stuffed, 4.1, 4.2
Black Bean Chili for Two ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Black Bean Chili ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Cajun Shrimp and Corn Chowder ■
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Italian Braised Turkey Sausages ■
Italian Vegetable Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
and Onions, Street Fair Sausages with ■, 4.1, 4.2
Pork Loin with Warm Spiced Chickpea Salad ■, 5.1, 5.2
Quinoa, Black Bean, and Mango Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Red, Sausage Ragu with ■, 10.1, 10.2
Red Beans and Rice Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Red Beans and Rice with Okra and Tomatoes ■ ■ ■ ■
Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Black Bean Salad ■
Thai Braised Butternut Squash with Tofu ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
see also Chile(s)
Peruvian Chicken and Sweet Potatoes, Spicy
Pesto
-Turkey Cocktail Meatballs ■, 1.1, 1.2
Pies
Pot, Hearty Beef and Vegetable ■, 7.1, 7.2
Pilaf
Barley, Herbed ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Barley, Spiced, with Dates and Parsley ■ ■ ■
Basmati Rice, Middle Eastern ■ ■ ■
Wild Rice, with Cranberries and Pecans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Pineapple
Sweet and Sour Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
Pine Nuts
Braised Kale, Fennel, and Sun-Dried Tomato Sauce ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Sicilian Fish Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
and Tomatoes, Stuffed Spiced Eggplants with ■, 9.1, 9.2
Pita Chips
Plantain and White Bean Chili, Cuban ■ ■ ■
with Avocado and Grapefruit Salsa ■
with Creamy Chipotle Chile Sauce ■
with Tangerine and Ginger Salsa ■
Poached Swordfish with Papaya Salsa ■ ■
Poached Swordfish with Warm Tomato and Olive Relish ■, 6.1, 6.2
Polenta
Parmesan, Creamy ■ ■ ■
Pomegranate
and Cauliflower, Spiced Lentil Salad with ■ ■
Pork Tenderloin with Spiced Bulgur Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Pork
and Black Bean Stew, Brazilian ■
Chili, New Mexican Red ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Chops
Braised, with Campfire Beans ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Braised, with Dried Fruit Compote ■ ■
Smothered, with Onions and Bacon ■, 4.1, 4.2
and Hominy, Tomatillo Chili with ■, 2.1, 2.2
Italian Sunday Gravy ■, 10.1, 10.2
Loin
with Fennel, Oranges, and Olives ■, 5.1, 5.2
with Warm Spiced Chickpea Salad ■, 5.1, 5.2
rack of ribs, fitting into slow cooker
Roasts
Cuban, with Mojo Sauce ■, 5.1, 5.2
Spareribs, Barbecued
Chinese ■ ■
Fiesta ■ ■
Spicy Mustard ■ ■
Sweet and Sour ■ ■
Sweet and Sour Sticky Ribs ■, 8.1, 8.2
Tenderloin
Spiced, with Raisin-Almond Couscous ■
with Spiced Bulgur Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
and White Bean Casserole, Rustic ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
and White Bean Stew with Kale ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
see also Bacon; Ham; Meatloaf mix; Sausage(s) (pork)
Portuguese Potato and Kale Soup ■, 2.1, 2.2
Potato(es)
Cajun Shrimp and Corn Chowder ■
and Carrots, Classic Pot Roast with ■, 5.1, 5.2
and Carrots, Orange-Tarragon Chicken with ■, 8.1, 8.2
and Chicken, Mediterranean, 3.1, 3.2
Chicken Bouillabaisse, 2.1, 2.2
and Chorizo, Cod in Saffron Broth with
and Corn, Shrimp Boil with ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Corned Beef and Cabbage Dinner ■ ■, 5.1, 5.2
Corned Beef Hash with Poached Eggs, 13.1, 13.2
Fingerling, Lemon-Herb ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Fisherman’s Stew ■ ■
Horseradish Smashed, Braised Steaks with ■ ■
Indian-Style Vegetable Curry ■, 9.1, 9.2
Italian Braised Turkey Sausages ■
Italian Vegetable Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
and Kale Soup, Portuguese ■, 2.1, 2.2
Manhattan Clam Chowder ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Mashed
Loaded ■
Quinoa and Vegetable Stew ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Red, Buttermilk Smashed ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Red, with Rosemary and Garlic ■ ■
Red Flannel Hash with Poached Eggs ■, 13.1, 13.2
Salad, Warm, and French Chicken
Salad, Warm Garden, Roast Beef with, 5.1, 5.2
see also Sweet Potato(es)
Pot Pies
Hearty Beef and Vegetable ■, 7.1, 7.2
Poultry
Pudding, bread. See Bread Puddings
Pudding Cakes
Puff pastry
Hearty Beef and Vegetable Pot Pie ■, 7.1, 7.2
Puttanesca Sauce ■ ■
Queso fresco
Lentil Salad with Radishes, Cilantro, and Pepitas ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Mustard Greens and Sweet Potato Tacos ■, 9.1, 9.2
Quinoa and Vegetable Stew ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Shredded Beef Tacos with Cabbage-Carrot Slaw ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Southwestern Black Bean and Bulgur Bowls ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Southwestern Lentil and Bean Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Quinoa
Black Bean, and Mango Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
and Corn Salad, Spiced, Shrimp with ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
No-Fuss, with Corn and Jalapeño ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
No-Fuss, with Lemon ■ ■ ■
Stuffed Acorn Squash ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
and Vegetable Lettuce Cups, Greek ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
and Vegetable Stew ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Radishes
Cilantro, and Pepitas, Lentil Salad with ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
French Chicken and Warm Potato Salad
Herbed Chicken with Warm Spring Vegetable Salad ■, 5.1, 5.2
Mustard Greens and Sweet Potato Tacos ■, 9.1, 9.2
Raisin(s)
-Almond Couscous, Spiced Pork Tenderloin with ■
-Almond Granola ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Boston Brown Bread ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Braised Chicken Thighs with Garlicky Spinach ■, 8.1, 8.2
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
New Mexican Red Pork Chili ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Sicilian Fish Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Raspberry-Peach Compote, Warm ■
Ratatouille, Herbed Pork Tenderloin with ■
Red Beans and Rice Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Red Beans and Rice with Okra and Tomatoes ■ ■ ■ ■
Red Flannel Hash with Poached Eggs ■, 13.1, 13.2
Red Lentil Stew ■ ■
Red Potatoes with Rosemary and Garlic ■ ■
Red Wine–Braised Short Ribs ■, 4.1, 4.2
Refried Bean Dip ■ ■
Rhubarb-Strawberry Compote, Warm ■
Rice
Basmati, Pilaf, Middle Eastern ■ ■ ■
Brown, Salad, Chili-Garlic Glazed Salmon with ■, 6.1, 6.2
Brown, with Parmesan and Herbs ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Butternut Squash Risotto ■, 11.1, 11.2
and Chicken, Lemony, with Spinach and Feta ■, 3.1, 3.2
and Chorizo, Mexican Meatballs with, 4.1, 4.2
Dirty, and Chicken, Southern, 8.1, 8.2
instant, for slow cooker recipes
Mexican ■ ■
and Red Beans Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
and Red Beans with Okra and Tomatoes ■ ■ ■ ■
Tex-Mex Stuffed Bell Peppers, 4.1, 4.2
White, Salad, Mediterranean, Salmon with ■
Wild, Pilaf with Cranberries and Pecans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Rich and Creamy Cheesecake, 14.1, 14.2
Ricotta
Broccoli, and Egg Casseroles, Individual ■ ■
Broccoli and Sun-Dried Tomato Lasagna ■
Spinach, and Egg Casseroles, Individual ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Stuffed Sole with Creamy Tomato Sauce, 6.1, 6.2
Risotto
Butternut Squash ■, 11.1, 11.2
Farro, with Carrots and Goat Cheese ■ ■
Parmesan ■
Roast Beef with Hearty Mushroom Gravy
Roast Beef with Warm Garden Potato Salad, 5.1, 5.2
Rosemary
and Garlic, Red Potatoes with ■ ■
and Garlic White Bean Dip ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
–Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes ■ ■
Rum
Rustic Braised Lentils with Eggplant ■ ■
Rustic Italian Braised Beef Short Ribs ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Saffron
Broth, Cod in, with Chorizo and Potatoes
Chicken Bouillabaisse, 2.1, 2.2
Sage
and Butternut Squash Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
and Olive Oil, Braised White Beans with ■ ■ ■
Salads
Beet and Wheat Berry, with Arugula and Apples ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Black Bean, Spice-Rubbed Chicken with ■
Brown Rice, Chili-Garlic Glazed Salmon with ■, 6.1, 6.2
Lentil
with Dill, Orange, and Spinach ■ ■
with Radishes, Cilantro, and Pepitas ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Spiced, with Cauliflower and Pomegranate ■ ■
Quinoa, Black Bean, and Mango ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Quinoa and Corn, Spiced, Shrimp with ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Southwestern Lentil and Bean ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Spiced Bulgur, Pork Tenderloin with ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Warm Garden Potato, Roast Beef with, 5.1, 5.2
Warm Potato, and French Chicken
Warm Spiced Chickpea, Pork Loin with ■, 5.1, 5.2
Warm Spring Vegetable, Herbed Chicken with ■, 5.1, 5.2
White Rice, Mediterranean, Salmon with ■
Salmon
Chili-Garlic Glazed, with Brown Rice Salad ■, 6.1, 6.2
with Mediterranean White Rice Salad ■
Poached ■
with Avocado and Grapefruit Salsa ■
with Creamy Chipotle Chile Sauce ■
with Tangerine and Ginger Salsa ■
Sandwiches
Street Fair Sausages with Peppers and Onions ■, 4.1, 4.2
Sweet and Tangy Pulled Chicken ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Sauces
Yogurt, for Mushroom Biryani, 9.1, 9.2
Yogurt, for Turkish Eggplant Casserole
see also Pasta sauces
Sausage(s)
Chicken, Braised, with White Bean Ragout ■, 3.1, 3.2
and Spinach, 15-Bean Soup with ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Turkey, Braised, and Fennel Sauce ■
Sausage(s) (pork)
Braised Kale with Garlic and Chorizo ■
Brazilian Black Bean and Pork Stew ■
Cajun Shrimp and Corn Chowder ■
Cod in Saffron Broth with Chorizo and Potatoes
Fisherman’s Stew ■ ■
Italian Sunday Gravy ■, 10.1, 10.2
Lentil, and Swiss Chard Sauce, Rustic ■
Mexican Meatballs with Chorizo and Rice, 4.1, 4.2
Portuguese Potato and Kale Soup ■, 2.1, 2.2
Ragu with Red Peppers ■, 10.1, 10.2
Red Beans and Rice Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Shrimp Boil with Corn and Potatoes ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Spanish Braised Shrimp and Chorizo ■ ■
Street Fair, with Peppers and Onions ■, 4.1, 4.2
and White Beans, Chicken Stew with, 2.1, 2.2
Scallions
Scalloped Potatoes ■, 12.1, 12.2
Scallops
Seafood
Sesame-Ginger Chicken and Sweet Potatoes
Shellfish
Cajun Shrimp and Corn Chowder ■
Fisherman’s Stew ■ ■
Manhattan Clam Chowder ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Scallops with Creamy Braised Leeks ■ ■
Shrimp and Green Chile Tacos ■
Shrimp Boil with Corn and Potatoes ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Shrimp Fra Diavolo Sauce ■ ■ ■
Shrimp with Spiced Quinoa and Corn Salad ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Spanish Braised Shrimp and Chorizo ■ ■
Spicy Thai Shrimp Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Thai Green Curry with Shrimp and Sweet Potatoes ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Short Ribs and Red Wine Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Shredded Beef Tacos with Cabbage-Carrot Slaw ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Shrimp
Boil with Corn and Potatoes ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
and Chorizo, Spanish Braised ■ ■
Fisherman’s Stew ■ ■
Fra Diavolo Sauce ■ ■ ■
Soup, Spicy Thai ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
with Spiced Quinoa and Corn Salad ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
and Sweet Potatoes, Thai Green Curry with ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Sicilian Fish Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Sides (grains and beans)
Boston Baked Beans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Braised Chickpeas ■ ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Braised Lentils with Escarole ■ ■
Braised White Beans with Olive Oil and Sage ■ ■ ■
Brown Rice with Parmesan and Herbs ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Butternut Squash Risotto ■, 11.1, 11.2
Creamy Farro with Mushrooms and Thyme ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Creamy Orzo with Parmesan and Peas ■, 11.1, 11.2
Creamy Parmesan Polenta ■ ■ ■
Cuban-Style Black Beans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Herbed Barley Pilaf ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Mexican Rice ■ ■
Mexican-Style Beans ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Middle Eastern Basmati Rice Pilaf ■ ■ ■
No-Fuss Quinoa with Corn and Jalapeño ■ ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
No-Fuss Quinoa with Lemon ■ ■ ■
Spiced Barley Pilaf with Dates and Parsley ■ ■ ■
Wheat Berries with Carrots and Oranges ■ ■ ■
Wild Rice Pilaf with Cranberries and Pecans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Sides (simple)
Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes for Two
Sides (vegetable)
Beets with Oranges and Walnuts ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Artichokes ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Butternut Squash with Pecans and Cranberries ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Cauliflower with Lemon-Caper Dressing ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Fennel with Orange-Tarragon Dressing ■ ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Braised Kale with Garlic and Chorizo ■
Braised Swiss Chard with Shiitakes and Peanuts ■ ■ ■
Brussels Sprouts with Lemon, Thyme, and Bacon ■, 12.1, 12.2
Buttermilk Smashed Red Potatoes ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Butternut Squash Puree ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Classic Mashed Potatoes ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Creamed Corn ■ ■
Easy Baked Potatoes ■ ■, 11.1, 12.1
Garlic and Parmesan Mashed Potatoes ■ ■
Glazed Carrots ■ ■ ■
Lemon-Herb Fingerling Potatoes ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Maple-Orange Glazed Acorn Squash ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Mashed Cauliflower ■ ■ ■ ■
Mashed Potatoes and Root Vegetables ■ ■
Mashed Sweet Potatoes ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Mediterranean Braised Green Beans ■ ■ ■
Olive Oil–Rosemary Mashed Potatoes ■ ■
Red Potatoes with Rosemary and Garlic ■ ■
Scalloped Potatoes ■, 12.1, 12.2
Slow-Cooked Tomatoes with Olive Oil ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Southern Braised Collard Greens ■ ■
Sweet and Sour Braised Red Cabbage
Slow-Cooked Tomatoes with Olive Oil ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Slow cookers
foil slings for, fm6.1, fm6.2, 6.1
matching recipes to slow-cooker sizes
parchment shields for, fm6.1, 6.1
top-rated model, characteristics of
Slow cooker tricks and techniques
adding vegetables at right time
browning meat and sautéing aromatics
bulking up on spices and aromatics
jump-starting cooking of rice and pasta
making the most of braising liquid
preparing ingredients in microwave
toasting pasta before adding to slow cooker
Smoky Barbecue Chicken Wings ■
Smoky Southwestern Strata, 13.1, 13.2
Smothered Pork Chops with Apples
Smothered Pork Chops with Onions and Bacon ■, 4.1, 4.2
Sole, Stuffed, with Creamy Tomato Sauce, 6.1, 6.2
Soufflé dishes, using in slow cookers
Soups
Beef and Noodle, Vietnamese ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Beef Oxtail, Hearty ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Black Bean ■ ■ ■
Butternut Squash and Apple, Creamy ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Cajun Shrimp and Corn Chowder ■
Chicken and Couscous, Curried ■
Chicken and Garden Vegetable ■, 8.1, 8.2
Chicken Noodle, Old-Fashioned ■, 2.1, 2.2
15-Bean, with Sausage and Spinach ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Garden Minestrone ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Lentil, Moroccan, with Mustard Greens ■ ■ ■ ■
Manhattan Clam Chowder ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Meatball and Escarole, Italian ■
Miso, with Shiitakes and Sweet Potatoes ■ ■ ■
Navy Bean, U.S. Senate ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Potato and Kale, Portuguese ■, 2.1, 2.2
Seafood, Spanish ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Shrimp, Spicy Thai ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Spicy Chipotle Chicken Noodle ■
Split Pea ■ ■
Turkey and Vegetable, Hearty ■ ■
White Bean, Tuscan ■ ■ ■
Southern Braised Collard Greens ■ ■
Southern Chicken and Dirty Rice, 8.1, 8.2
Southwestern Black Bean and Bulgur Bowls ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Southwestern Lentil and Bean Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Southwestern Strata, Smoky, 13.1, 13.2
Spanish Braised Shrimp and Chorizo ■ ■
Spanish Seafood Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Spiced Barley Pilaf with Dates and Parsley ■ ■ ■
Spiced Chicken with Carrot Couscous ■
Spiced Lentil Salad with Cauliflower and Pomegranate ■ ■
Spiced Pork Tenderloin with Raisin-Almond Couscous ■
Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Black Bean Salad ■
Spice rubs
Spicy Chipotle Chicken Noodle Soup ■
Spicy Mustard Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
Spicy Peruvian Chicken and Sweet Potatoes
Spicy Thai Shrimp Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Spinach
and Artichoke Dip ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Braised Chicken Sausages with White Bean Ragout ■, 3.1, 3.2
Butternut Squash and Sage Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Chicken Stew with Sausage and White Beans, 2.1, 2.2
Dill, and Orange, Lentil Salad with ■ ■
Farro Risotto with Carrots and Goat Cheese ■ ■
and Feta, Lemony Chicken and Rice with ■, 3.1, 3.2
Garlicky, Braised Chicken Thighs with ■, 8.1, 8.2
Japanese Pork and Ramen Soup ■
Meatballs Florentine, 10.1, 10.2
Ricotta, and Egg Casseroles, Individual ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
and Sausage, 15-Bean Soup with ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
and Squash, Hearty Turkey Stew with ■, 8.1, 8.2
Stuffed Sole with Creamy Tomato Sauce, 6.1, 6.2
Wheat Berry and Wild Mushroom Stew ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Split Pea Soup ■ ■
Spring Vegetable Chicken Soup ■
Squash
Acorn
Curried Chicken Thighs with ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Maple-Orange Glazed ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Butternut
and Apple Soup, Creamy ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Braised, with Pecans and Cranberries ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
and Farro Stew ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 2.1
Thai Braised, with Tofu ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Chicken and Garden Vegetable Soup ■, 8.1, 8.2
Garden Minestrone ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Herbed Pork Tenderloin with Ratatouille ■
Italian Vegetable Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
and Spinach, Hearty Turkey Stew with ■, 8.1, 8.2
Spring Vegetable Chicken Soup ■
Summer Barley Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Stews
Beef
Burgundy ■
Catalan ■
Black Bean and Pork, Brazilian ■
Chicken, with Sausage and White Beans, 2.1, 2.2
Chicken Bouillabaisse, 2.1, 2.2
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Farro and Butternut Squash ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 2.1
Fisherman’s ■ ■
French Lentil ■ ■
Moroccan Fish Tagine with Artichoke Hearts ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Pork and White Bean, with Kale ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Quinoa and Vegetable ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Red Beans and Rice ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Red Lentil ■ ■
Turkey, Hearty, with Squash and Spinach ■, 8.1, 8.2
Vegetable, Italian ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Wheat Berry and Wild Mushroom ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
see also Chili
Strata
Smoky Southwestern, 13.1, 13.2
Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote, Warm ■
Street Fair Sausages with Peppers and Onions ■, 4.1, 4.2
Stuffed Acorn Squash ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Stuffed Apples with Dried Cherries and Hazelnuts, 14.1, 14.2
Stuffed Sole with Creamy Tomato Sauce, 6.1, 6.2
Stuffed Spiced Eggplants with Tomatoes and Pine Nuts ■, 9.1, 9.2
Summer Barley Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil Turkey Meatballs, 10.1, 10.2
Sweet and Sour Barbecued Spareribs ■ ■
Sweet and Sour Braised Red Cabbage
Sweet and Sour Sticky Ribs ■, 8.1, 8.2
Sweet and Tangy Pulled Chicken ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Sweet Potato(es)
and Mustard Greens Tacos ■, 9.1, 9.2
and Shiitakes, Miso Soup with ■ ■ ■
and Shrimp, Thai Green Curry with ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Swiss Chard
Braised, with Shiitakes and Peanuts ■ ■ ■
Curried Chicken and Couscous Soup ■
Garden Minestrone ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Hearty Turkey and Vegetable Soup ■ ■
and Mustard, Chicken Thighs with ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Sausage, and Lentil Sauce, Rustic ■
Swiss cheese
Unstuffed Chicken Cordon Bleu ■, 3.1, 3.2
Swordfish
Poached, with Papaya Salsa ■ ■
Poached, with Warm Tomato and Olive Relish ■, 6.1, 6.2
Sicilian Fish Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Tabbouleh, Warm, Greek Chicken with ■, 3.1, 3.2
Tacos
Fish, California-Style ■, 6.1, 6.2
Mustard Greens and Sweet Potato ■, 9.1, 9.2
Shredded Beef, with Cabbage-Carrot Slaw ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Soft, Tomatillo Chicken ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Tagines
Moroccan Fish, with Artichoke Hearts ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Tangerine and Ginger Salsa, Poached Salmon with ■
Tarragon
Cream Sauce and Mushrooms, Chicken with, 3.1, 3.2
-Orange Chicken with Potatoes and Carrots ■, 8.1, 8.2
-Orange Dressing, Braised Fennel with ■ ■ ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Tea-Poached Pears ■, 14.1, 14.2
Teriyaki Pork Tenderloin ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Tex-Mex Stuffed Bell Peppers, 4.1, 4.2
Thai Braised Butternut Squash with Tofu ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Thai Chicken and Coconut Soup ■
Thai Chicken with Asparagus and Mushrooms ■
Thai Chicken with Coconut Curry Sauce ■ ■
Thai Green Curry with Shrimp and Sweet Potatoes ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Thai Shrimp Soup, Spicy ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Thai-Spiced Chicken in a Pot ■
Thyme
Baked Brie with Figs, Walnuts, and Herbs ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
Toasts
Tofu
Indian-Style Vegetable Curry ■, 9.1, 9.2
Miso Soup with Shiitakes and Sweet Potatoes ■ ■ ■
Thai Braised Butternut Squash with ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Tomatillo(s)
Chicken Soft Tacos ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Chili with Pork and Hominy ■, 2.1, 2.2
Tomato(es)
Arrabbiata Sauce ■ ■
Beef and Barley Soup ■, 2.1, 2.2
Beef and Black Bean Taco Dip ■, 1.1, 1.2
Beef Ragu with Warm Spices ■ ■
Black Bean Chili for Two ■ ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Black Bean Chili ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Braised Chicken Sausages with White Bean Ragout ■, 3.1, 3.2
Cherry, Pasta Sauce, Easy ■ ■ ■ ■
Chicken and Mushroom Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Chicken Tikka Masala ■, 3.1, 3.2
Classic Marinara Sauce ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
and Fennel Couscous, Chicken with ■, 3.1, 3.2
Greek Chicken with Warm Tabbouleh ■, 3.1, 3.2
Greek Quinoa and Vegetable Lettuce Cups ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Herbed Pork Tenderloin with Ratatouille ■
Huevos Rancheros ■, 13.1, 13.2
Individual Ricotta, Spinach, and Egg Casseroles ■ ■, 13.1, 13.2
Italian Sunday Gravy ■, 10.1, 10.2
Italian Vegetable Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Manhattan Clam Chowder ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Meatballs and Marinara, 10.1, 10.2
Meatballs and Marinara for Two, 8.1, 8.2
Meatballs Florentine, 10.1, 10.2
Mediterranean Braised Green Beans ■ ■ ■
Mediterranean Lentil Salad ■ ■
Moroccan Fish Tagine with Artichoke Hearts ■ ■, 6.1, 6.2
Mushroom Bolognese ■ ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
and Okra, Red Beans and Rice with ■ ■ ■ ■
and Olive Relish, Warm, Poached Swordfish with ■, 6.1, 6.2
and Olives, Latin Chicken with ■ ■
and Pine Nuts, Stuffed Spiced Eggplants with ■, 9.1, 9.2
Puttanesca Sauce ■ ■
Red Lentil Stew ■ ■
Rustic Braised Lentils with Eggplant ■ ■
Rustic Italian Braised Beef Short Ribs ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Salmon with Mediterranean White Rice Salad ■
Sauce, All-Purpose ■ ■ ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Sauce, Creamy, Stuffed Sole with, 6.1, 6.2
Sauce, Meaty ■ ■
Sausage Ragu with Red Peppers ■, 10.1, 10.2
Short Ribs and Red Wine Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Shrimp Fra Diavolo Sauce ■ ■ ■
Slow-Cooked, with Olive Oil ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Smoky Southwestern Strata, 13.1, 13.2
Southwestern Lentil and Bean Salad ■ ■, 8.1, 8.2
Spanish Braised Shrimp and Chorizo ■ ■
Spanish Seafood Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Spicy Chipotle Chicken Noodle Soup ■
Summer Barley Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Sun-Dried, and Basil Turkey Meatballs, 10.1, 10.2
Sun-Dried, and Broccoli Lasagna ■
Sun-Dried, Braised Kale, and Fennel Sauce ■ ■, 10.1, 10.2
Turkey-Pesto Cocktail Meatballs ■, 1.1, 1.2
and White Beans, Braised Oxtails with ■, 4.1, 4.2
Tortilla(s)
California-Style Fish Tacos ■, 6.1, 6.2
Chicken Enchiladas ■, 7.1, 7.2
Mustard Greens and Sweet Potato Tacos ■, 9.1, 9.2
Shredded Beef Tacos with Cabbage-Carrot Slaw ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Shrimp and Green Chile Tacos ■
Tomatillo Chicken Soft Tacos ■ ■, 3.1, 3.2
Turkey
Breast with Cherry-Orange Sauce ■ ■
Italian Meatball and Escarole Soup ■
Meatballs, Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil, 10.1, 10.2
Meatloaf ■
-Pesto Cocktail Meatballs ■, 1.1, 1.2
Stew, Hearty, with Squash and Spinach ■, 8.1, 8.2
and Vegetable Soup, Hearty ■ ■
Turkey Sausage(s)
Tuscan White Bean Soup ■ ■ ■
Unstuffed Chicken Cordon Bleu ■, 3.1, 3.2
U.S. Senate Navy Bean Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Vanilla extract, pure versus imitation
Veal
Vegetable(s)
Curry, Indian-Style ■, 9.1, 9.2
delicate, adding to slow cooker
Garden, and Chicken Soup ■, 8.1, 8.2
Root, and Potatoes, Mashed ■ ■
see also specific vegetables
Vegetarian mains
Beet and Wheat Berry Salad with Arugula and Apples ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Curried Lentil Salad with Kale ■ ■
Farro Risotto with Carrots and Goat Cheese ■ ■
Greek Quinoa and Vegetable Lettuce Cups ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Indian-Style Vegetable Curry ■, 9.1, 9.2
Lentil Salad with Dill, Orange, and Spinach ■ ■
Lentil Salad with Radishes, Cilantro, and Pepitas ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Mediterranean Lentil Salad ■ ■
Mustard Greens and Sweet Potato Tacos ■, 9.1, 9.2
Quinoa, Black Bean, and Mango Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Red Beans and Rice with Okra and Tomatoes ■ ■ ■ ■
Rustic Braised Lentils with Eggplant ■ ■
Southwestern Black Bean and Bulgur Bowls ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Spiced Lentil Salad with Cauliflower and Pomegranate ■ ■
Stuffed Spiced Eggplants with Tomatoes and Pine Nuts ■, 9.1, 9.2
Summer Barley Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Thai Braised Butternut Squash with Tofu ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Vietnamese Beef and Noodle Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Walnuts
Figs, and Herbs, Baked Brie with ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
and Oranges, Beets with ■ ■, 12.1, 12.2
Warm Marinated Artichoke Hearts ■ ■
Warm Peach-Raspberry Compote ■
Warm Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote ■
Wheat Berry(ies)
and Beet Salad with Arugula and Apples ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
with Carrots and Oranges ■ ■ ■
and Wild Mushroom Stew ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
White Bean(s)
Braised, with Olive Oil and Sage ■ ■ ■
canned cannellini, taste tests on
Dip, Rosemary and Garlic ■ ■ ■, 1.1, 1.2
and Escarole Sauce ■, 10.1, 10.2
Garden Minestrone ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Hearty Vegetarian Chili ■ ■ ■ ■
Italian Meatball and Escarole Soup ■
and Plantain Chili, Cuban ■ ■ ■
and Pork Casserole, Rustic ■ ■, 7.1, 7.2
and Pork Stew with Kale ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Ragout, Braised Chicken Sausages with ■, 3.1, 3.2
and Sausage, Chicken Stew with, 2.1, 2.2
Soup, Tuscan ■ ■ ■
and Tomatoes, Braised Oxtails with ■, 4.1, 4.2
U.S. Senate Navy Bean Soup ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
White Chocolate and Cherry Bread Pudding
Wild Rice
Pilaf with Cranberries and Pecans ■ ■, 11.1, 11.2
Wraps, Korean Lettuce ■ ■, 4.1, 4.2
Yogurt
Chicken Tikka Masala ■, 3.1, 3.2
Chickpea Tagine ■ ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
-Dill Sauce, Poached Salmon with ■
Greek Chicken with Warm Tabbouleh ■, 3.1, 3.2
Greek Quinoa and Vegetable Lettuce Cups ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Sauce for Mushroom Biryani, 9.1, 9.2
Sauce for Turkish Eggplant Casserole
Summer Barley Salad ■ ■ ■, 9.1, 9.2
Zucchini
Garden Minestrone ■ ■ ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
Herbed Pork Tenderloin with Ratatouille ■
Italian Vegetable Stew ■ ■, 2.1, 2.2
